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Aluminum roof


nooga

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My 1994 Itasca Spirit has a one-piece aluminum roof that is now in good shape. However, I have not read much in these forum posts on the best way to care and maintain aluminum tops. For example, the roof in now unpainted and un-coated. I wonder if it should be painted to give a little extra protection? Or is this unnecessary and might create more problems down the line? Any advice will be appreciated.

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You will get varying opinions. Aluminum is a very resistant metal but it can corrode. Avoid standing water and organic material (leaves) pooling around the air conditioner.

I leave mine unpainted because I like the heat reflective properties but I park the front wheels on 2" planks to keep a slope that drains the rain water off the back of the camper.

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Paint adds a protective layer for corrosion resistance. Just because you can't see the corrosion does not mean its not there. Micro pinholes can be created that siphon water to the inside. The aircraft industry is big on corrosion avoidance and cures. If the skin has been left open to the elements then I think it should be treated before being painted.

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A lot of people in my area (central NY) as well as new RV makers -are puting seem-less sheets of EPDM rubber on the roofs. Looks like a great idea to me and I might do that for my 88 MiniCruiser.

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i have a 93 warrior - I do nothing for my roof except when in storage I keep the vehicle slanted so the roof will drain. I also make sure the lap sealant is in good shape - it lasts a long time.

i would not put any other material on top - mine is 20 years old & doing fine. I have never heard of the metal failing.

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I'm not sure anyone is worried about the metal failing. It's when moisture seeps or inbibes though the seams and rots any interior wood. Very common problem in RVs in the northeast. I've come across several Sunraders and Winnebagos where the exterior of the roof was fine but the interior plywood was ruined - just about everywhere. That from years and years of water getting in and no ventilation for it ever to dry out.

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I have heard of several people whose aluminum roofs got pitted and started to leak. Might be the cause of some mystery damage people find after they buy a great looking motorhome. My friend Randy had to coat his but I don't know what he used. Rubber roofing materal is expensive and needs frequent maintenance.

Cost http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=23440&SID=9&DID=116&CID=346

Maintenance http://www.fmca.com/polks-top-7/3425-polks-top-7-steps-to-maintain-a-rubber-rv-roof.html

Linda S

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I have heard of several people whose aluminum roofs got pitted and started to leak. Might be the cause of some mystery damage people find after they buy a great looking motorhome. My friend Randy had to coat his but I don't know what he used. Rubber roofing materal is expensive and needs frequent maintenance.

Cost http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=23440&SID=9&DID=116&CID=346

Maintenance http://www.fmca.com/polks-top-7/3425-polks-top-7-steps-to-maintain-a-rubber-rv-roof.html

Linda S

The prices on that Website are ridiculous. I've installed EPDM on over a dozen houses with flat or low-pitch roofs. It's been around longer in the housing industry then with RVs. I just bought a bunch of 45 mil EPDM last month and it was $42 per square (100 square feet). That Website you posted a link to is asking $454 for two square. I can buy the same for less then $100 if new at the store and cheaper if I find a roofer with remnants. Very often when a large roof is being done (on a house or building) there are large pieces left over. A guy near me gave me a 9' X 22' piece recently for $20.

As to maintenance? It needs very little. Much less then trying to maintain seams with caulking (if it's a problem). Certainly is here in the northeast for any RV that is left outside all the time.

By the way - that Website you cited doesn't seem to know what a mil is. They list that overpriced EPDM sheet as ".045 mil." If that were true - it would be useless. One mil is .001" (on thousandth of an inch). .045" thick is 45 mils - NOT .045 mil.

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At the risk of running this subject into the ground, I'll ad my two cents here. If your roof isn't leaking and the edge seams where the roof meets the side are well caulked, leave the roof alone. Maybe later down the road you'll have to do something if you find any pin holes. The easiest fix for pinholes is white, elastomeric coating available at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $50 or $60 dollars a gallon. Roll it or brush it on every two years or so and you're good to go. Takes two coats about 24 hours apart.

The main thing is regularly inspecting your roof and all it's seams...

John

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The prices on that Website are ridiculous. I've installed EPDM on over a dozen houses with flat or low-pitch roofs. It's been around longer in the housing industry then with RVs. I just bought a bunch of 45 mil EPDM last month and it was $42 per square (100 square feet). That Website you posted a link to is asking $454 for two square. I can buy the same for less then $100 if new at the store and cheaper if I find a roofer with remnants. Very often when a large roof is being done (on a house or building) there are large pieces left over. A guy near me gave me a 9' X 22' piece recently for $20.

As to maintenance? It needs very little. Much less then trying to maintain seams with caulking (if it's a problem). Certainly is here in the northeast for any RV that is left outside all the time.

By the way - that Website you cited doesn't seem to know what a mil is. They list that overpriced EPDM sheet as ".045 mil." If that were true - it would be useless. One mil is .001" (on thousandth of an inch). .045" thick is 45 mils - NOT .045 mil.

Yup found lots of rubber roof material for cheap as long as you don't mind a black roof on your RV. Can't think of anyone who would want black. I did find some slightly cheaper epdm in white but not much cheaper. Add the bonding materials and all the other stuff you need and it still comes in at 400 plus. I have a couple of friends with Americana's that are due for new roofs soon. Find me some cheap white stuff so I can tell them where to buy it

Linda S

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Black EPDM in my area is $40-$50 per 100 square feet for 45 mil.

Black EPDM in my area is $55-$60 per 100 square feet for 65 mil.

White EPDM in my area is $90-$110 per 100 square feet for 65 mil.

White TPO in my area is $45-$55 per 100 square feet for 45 mil.

1 gallon pail of glue is $30.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Linda, an ad showed up on Seattle craigslist today for factory direct pricing on rubber roof.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/rvs/4078084863.html

I actually did some calling around in my area for rubber roof material. All the places I called directed me to Ford Wholesale, not the car company, here in San Jose. They only order in bulk so not someone an RV owner could use and the white stuff runs 3 times the cost of the black no matter how much you order. Also found that the rubber roof material used on many rv's is not EPDM but TPO. White all the way through instead of just a white laminated surface like EPDM. I would guess that building codes here are the reason it's not very available here so can't really price compare locally

Linda S

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for those concerned about corrosion (pin holes or what ever/ however) also consider that coating the metal may create an issue - if water ever gets under the coating then you may have created a wet surface that does not dry, Getting something to stick to aluminum that has some oxidation could be more of a challenge than just painting something on.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just replaced the Lap Sealant on the top of my 1991 Warrior, it was a big job. There was a small spot on my roof near the seam where the exterior edging meets in the rear that some pinhole corrosion had developed. I don't like the idea of using non factory materials but in this case the elastomeric coating was the simplest and best fix. It was easy to apply and I only used it in the area that had visible corrosion; so far so good. I would not coat a perfectly good aluminum 1 piece roof unless it was necessary, I had extensive water damage in the area underneath the corrosion/pinholes

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