tlava Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 the valve cover I put in new gaskets and grommets. the cap nuts keep turning, but never really tighten though they get a bit more snug are they compressing the new gasket material or could I be unscrewing the bolts from the head if reverse thread not sure how much to tighten these sorry my keyboard isn't working properly intakes were ok so didn't mess with them, a couple ex a bit tight and one a bit loose got them so the the .o11 gauge is pretty tight, maybe you could shove in the .o12, but def. not the o13 also timing chain looked nice everything looked really nice and clean like new in there valve train rockers timing chain and gears etc so I guess I shouldn't worry about the timing chain, since it is a chain and not the plastic guides at least I don't think so unless they are on back also looks like it would be tough to replace coolant question I drained system and replaced t stat (was orig 88 degree and I replaced with the two stage i think 195 in any case, should I have filled the block w coolant before replacing t stat, and then fill radiator, or just put all back together dry and replenish via radiator fill I can always remove t stat again if necessary currently no coolant in system I replaced water pump, scraping off as much of old gasket as possible from block with the razor knife which I hope was right thing to do though a few internal scratches on metal gasket surface it seemed or maybe just on a film left by old gasket...hard to tell all felt smooth though so I reassembled with new felt gasket one other question removing the old radiator I bent one of the copper tranny fluid lines slightly, then nudged it back it is now not perfectly rounded as other, but not sure if this will cause a flow issue. I know from exp with propane you can almost crimp a line in half and it will still work, but I assume not the same with fluids... BTW I got the alt belt easily off the water pump pulley without loosening the alt if I replace pump pulley working topside in first under belt will I be able to snug it in on the pump lip with a new belt, or will I likely have to loosen the alt I think tightening the fan clutch nuts will be hard since the pump will turn probably hold one nut with the wrench to keep the clutch from turning while tightening an adjacent nut any advice Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Wow there's a lot there... Valve cover nuts take very little torque. You can easily tighten them waaay past where you should. You'll know because you'll hear your rocker arms hitting the valve cover! Your timing chain has plastic guides. I think. Not sure what year your truck is? If you have a dual row timing chain, you have metal-backed plastic guides. If single chain, straight up plastic guides. If those plastic guides break, your chain could jump a tooth or two and cause serious timing issues, and also start hitting the edges of timing cover, eventually allowing oil and coolant to mix. I've always just put everything back together, then added my coolant to the radiator. Put everything back together first. You'll find out if you can easily slip the belt back on when you get to it. But if that's the case, you'll want to tighten the belt. It should NOT be that loose. So either way you'll be loosening the alternator. Then get a pry bar in there between it and the block (making sure not to pry against something that you'll damage) and keep good tension on the bar as you or your helper tighten the alternator back up. Yeah, those fun clutch nuts don't need to be super tight, so just holding the fan from moving any way you can think of will work fine. Even just pushing down a bit on the belt is sometimes enough to keep it from turning enough to get the nuts tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunrading Arkansas Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 What Zach said, except I ALWAYS fill the block through the T-stat hole, then bolt everything back up and fill the radiator the rest of the way. Then (carefully) let it warm with the cap off to allow any air bubbles to escape, shut off and let cool, then top off. Those air bubbles can wreck havoc in the cooling system if they get stuck in the wrong place...that's how i learned how to do a head gasket on my old 4runner...just my $0.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Interesting! Yes, always bleed the air out of the system before you call yourself "done". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 not to ask the obvious, but when you say you fill the block then bolt everything back up, I assume the radiator is reinstalled before adding coolant to the block, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunrading Arkansas Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Yes, everything excepty the t-stat housing - fill through the t-stat opening, then bolt the t-stat back onto the manifold, then top off the radiator slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 If you experience odd cooling system behaviour, Google 'Toyota 22re cooling system burping'. Here's a sample:- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/burping-radiator-131062/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunrading Arkansas Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 ^ If only I'd read that when I was 16....ugh. Live and learn I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 "Hire a teenager while they still know everything!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straygoose Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 How do you slip the alt belt on and off by hand? And if you can do that it can't possibly be tight enough to function properly, can it? Reason Iask is for a totally unrelated reason. My alt belt comes a little loose and about once a month I get in there and tighten her up. For the life of me I cannot figure out why she repeatedly does this. I put a star washer on the bolt to kind of lock her in place on the arm, but the alt still slips just enough for a little squeaking when I fire her up or really stand on the gas pedal. Like I said, it usually takes about a month for it to work its way loose, so I'm not sure what I'm dealing with. I've been cranking down on that bolt pretty good, seeing as I don't have an impact driver. Maybe I just can't get it tight enough with a 3/8 socket wrench? It's kinda hard getting anything bigger or longer on that bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 No, you should be able to get it plenty tight with regular old wrenches. Not sure what you've got going on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Are you sure the alternator is moving or is it the belt stretching. Whichever, if I was in your situation, I'd be carrying a new spare belt. Just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 check your water pump f or slopi tighten both alt bolts the one that holds it on and the one on the slid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 Depending on your engine you should have a block drain on the drivers side of your engine. On mine it's a 12mm bolt about half way up the rear of the engine. It works like your radiator drain. As your adding fluid through your T-stat housing open this valve up with a catch pan underneath. When you get a steady stream of fluid coming out, you've removed any air trapped in the water passages of the head. Retighten the bolt, continue filling as instructed by other posters. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 Shoot--wish I'd know about the block drain. As it is, put all back together with I'm afraid some of old coolant still in block. Well, looks like same stuff (Toy red), and in any case, everything looked pretty clean. couple Qs: If I'm seeing some clear drops of water/liquid from exhaust even after warm up (after driving for a bit), is this normal condensation in system, or could this suggest HC leakage? I still have a slight skip/miss, actually more like a slight recurring stumble, even after new plugs regapped and timing set twice, but otherwise seems to run OK--still maybe a timing issue? since putting in new 3-core rad, new dual-hole 195 degree T-stat, and new wp, seems to run cooler--needle stays below half, but more than 1/4: should it be running cooler w/all this, or is that about right? Also put in a 10" aux. fan (manually switched)--sounds cool, but not sure how much diff it will make... Haven't tested on more than about a 15 minute run in hills thus far, so not sure what a day on the Interstate will show... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 Head gasket leak will be white smoke. It would be rare for actual fluid to make it out...With a headgasket leak, you're burning coolant, it's not running straight from the engine out the exhaust. As long as your under half on the temp, I think you're good. The gauges aren't finely calibrated, and it really depends...I would not worry about it. You got the air out of the system? What's the vehicle again? It's hard to trouble shoot when I don't know what year. Can't expect people to remember what you're driving from other threads. Carbed? Was it happening before this job? Could very well be a carb adjustment or vacuum issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 Smell the water coming from the exhaust. If it smells like antifreeze then you have a coolant leak somewhere. If not, it's probably condensation. As far as your slight skip it could be a vacuum leak or even a sticking valve. I've got one on mine,pretty sure it's a valve but not bad enough that it concerns me. My engine runs strong and has good vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlava Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Thanks folks-- It's an '84 22 RE, so no carb; I think yes the air is out. If a sticking valve, then even after the adjustment, it might still be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Thanks folks-- It's an '84 22 RE, so no carb; I think yes the air is out. If a sticking valve, then even after the adjustment, it might still be? If the engine is running fine with good vacuum chances are it's a sticking valve. My rig has this symptom and has run fine for over 2 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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