newsunraderowner Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Pardon all the questions and thanks in advance for any info/help When I connect city water - water is gushing from underneath the car. What did I do wrong? The fresh water tank is empty. If I want to fill it-how? And/or what's the correct way to do it? How do I operate the water heater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdboltdude Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 check the connection going in to rv (take off and inspect inside try seeing if disconnected) make sure their a water pressure valve city water has to much water pressure.. if rv water connection is good then your going to have to look for broken pipe.. I think it should be in rv water connection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Check the winterization drains, sounds like they are open.On my Dolphin they are located under the sink near the floor, they have what looks like a small "T" Look underneath the truck and you'll probably see a short piece of hose sticking thru the floor. That connects to the bottom of the drain valve thats located inside the coach Someone with a Sunrader can probably tell you exactly where they are. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 My Sunrader has a little ring you pull up near the water pump.Different floor plans have them in different places but checking for the drain tube will work. Very likely you just have broken pipes though. Your going to have to find out where exactly the leak is coming from and most importantly if there is water inside somewhere. You might have to take some things apart to let it dry out. The water heater is probably not electric start and you light them from the outside. Open door and they light much like a home water heater. Turn to pilot and hold switch down while you light it with a barbeque lighter, then hold for about 30 seconds to warm thermocouple and turn to on. Check and make sure it's stays lit. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsunraderowner Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 My Sunrader has a little ring you pull up near the water pump.Different floor plans have them in different places but checking for the drain tube will work. Very likely you just have broken pipes though. Your going to have to find out where exactly the leak is coming from and most importantly if there is water inside somewhere. You might have to take some things apart to let it dry out. The water heater is probably not electric start and you light them from the outside. Open door and they light much like a home water heater. Turn to pilot and hold switch down while you light it with a barbeque lighter, then hold for about 30 seconds to warm thermocouple and turn to on. Check and make sure it's stays lit. Linda S Thanks Linda Mine looks different...the water heater appears to be ignite via a switch in the coach. I've attached some images...showing the water heater, pump and the plumbing I am not sure what's going on ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Pipes into the water heater are pretty rusted. Yes some water heaters have electric ignition. If your coach battery is good and you have propane in the tanks and water in the fresh water tank it should light. Need to fix the leak first. So you know how to get into this area where is the leak coming from. Is it all wet in here? Got to narrow this down. Fill fresh water tank and run the water. If the leak is connected to the water system and not the outside water hook up it's easier to see without so much water pressure and you can stop it by stopping the pump. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsunraderowner Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 Pipes into the water heater are pretty rusted. Yes some water heaters have electric ignition. If your coach battery is good and you have propane in the tanks and water in the fresh water tank it should light. Need to fix the leak first. So you know how to get into this area where is the leak coming from. Is it all wet in here? Got to narrow this down. Fill fresh water tank and run the water. If the leak is connected to the water system and not the outside water hook up it's easier to see without so much water pressure and you can stop it by stopping the pump. Linda S I've never own an RV so pardon the silly/ridiculous questions. The fresh water tank is empty. When I connected a hose (city water) and turned it on, water is pouring underneath (exterior) the bed of the truck. It is running down, what appears to be two lines going through the carpet and out underneath the chassis. If you were to refer to image 3, I think that's where its coming from. Now, while city water is connected and flowing, I did also notice a drip where the elbow is connected to the pump (image 4). Keep in mind the fresh water take is empty. Now to fill the fresh water tank, do I just take the city hose and shove it into the opening marked "drinking water"? I thought that with the city water connected it would automatically fill the fresh water tank? How do you guys do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Well of course check those hoses you think the water is coming from. Follow where they go to. Yes to fill the fresh tank you have to put a hose into the outside fill thingy that says drinking water. Mine doen't say that but it's probably the right one. The city water hook up does not fill the tank and because of city water pressure you don't need to use the pump. You do need a pressure regulator on your hose or you will blow out your water lines. That might already be what happened. Both of those knobs on the drain release are turned sideways which seems to me would be closed buy try turning the the other way. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 They appear to be drain taps going through the floor twist the "T" handle clock wise and see what that does for you. I would replace the "garden hose" plumbing. I don't think I would worry about the rust on the tank fittings some one was cheap/lazy and just used iron fittings no big deal as long as they are not leaking. You have to stick the hose in the "drinking water" port to fill the tank it will not fill from the hose connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 many campers have a "city water" connection - you screw in a gardenhose (food quality preferably) & then you have water pressure inside at all faucets. they also have a tank that is filled thru an opening. that water is poured into (jugs or hose, but not screwed in). To use that water a pump has to be activated - a pressure switch in the pump causes the pump to run when pressure in the system drops (like when you open a faucet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 The thumbscrews shown in photo number three are your system winter drains. They are located at a low slot in your water system and with a LITTLE air pressure you can drain all of the water for winter storage. Close those drains and recheck for leaks. Those valves are just like the drain valve on my air compressor, they turn several revolutions to open or close, they are not quarter turn valves. Make sure that you use a pressure regulator in line with your water hose. The regulator screws onto the RV and the hose screws onto the regulator. The regulator is available at any RV shop or WalMart for under $10t. You need the regulator because these water systems are not made to take high pressure. Some people try to get by cheap and go without the regulator but it is false economy. When I got my Toyhouse, the winterizing drains were open and I had to locate them. I also thought that I had a major leak but was relieved to find that the valves were just open. I hope that you have the same solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Do note that some city water inlet valves already have pressure control regulators built into them. If that is the case you don't need to buy a separate one. My RV came with the one shown in the link below. http://www.rvsupplyparts.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=7110 Fortunately I did not jump right in and order something I did not need based on everyone in the forum saying I had to go right out and buy a pressure regulator to screw onto the end of my hose. Of course it would not have hurt anything except my pocket book to use it so no real harm would have been done Be careful of what you may think is a pressure regulator at a camp ground it most likely is an anti back flow valve they are required in most states pressure regulators are not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsunraderowner Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 The thumbscrews shown in photo number three are your system winter drains. They are located at a low slot in your water system and with a LITTLE air pressure you can drain all of the water for winter storage. Close those drains and recheck for leaks. Those valves are just like the drain valve on my air compressor, they turn several revolutions to open or close, they are not quarter turn valves. Make sure that you use a pressure regulator in line with your water hose. The regulator screws onto the RV and the hose screws onto the regulator. The regulator is available at any RV shop or WalMart for under $10t. You need the regulator because these water systems are not made to take high pressure. Some people try to get by cheap and go without the regulator but it is false economy. When I got my Toyhouse, the winterizing drains were open and I had to locate them. I also thought that I had a major leak but was relieved to find that the valves were just open. I hope that you have the same solution. Thank you I completely closed the valves. Filled the fresh water tank and turn on the pump switch. I have water but not wartm/hot water. What is the proper way to ignite the water heater. I have the G6A-4E model came with RV. If it does ignite, any suggestion? Btw-without the regulator, when connecting city water line, what will happen? And if my fresh water tank is full, say I'm at a site and I want city water connected. Any problems? Thank you all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 If you do not have a built in regulator and do not use an add on one, you can burst the water lines in the RV. Some city and residential water systems have way too much pressure for your RV. I saw regulators at WalMart yesterday for under $10. Karin, thank you for pointing out that built in regulator. I have never seen them before. Maineah, I have also seen many of the vacuum breaks mounted on water spigots and can see how many people can think that they are regulators. Don't avoid buying a regulator to save money. It is one of the best $10 buys that you can make. I checked the pressure at a campground in Sturgis and was surprised to find over 90 psi. It turns out that the city water supply is way up on a hill and all of that head pressure could be hazardous to your entire system. I asked the campground owner about the water pressure and he said that it was not his problem to regulate the pressure. I will not be staying there again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.