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After reading discussions on the 6300 series convertors I decided to upgrade before I ending up frying some of my electronics. After searching options and prices I went with the 2007 WFCO Ultra III conversion kit. It is a 3 stage converter/charger that replaces the 6300 & 7300 series. Due to my limited electrical experience, I was a bit hesitant on attempting to do this. I purchased the unit from bestconverter.com. The web site has excellent instructions with colored pictures that made the swap easy. If you are thinking of upgrading you may want to look at this option.

Kathy

1988 18' Sunrader

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  • 2 months later...
After reading discussions on the 6300 series convertors I decided to upgrade before I ending up frying some of my electronics.

I know that this is an old thread but I have done a tutorial on how to replace the converter/charger unit out of the 6300/7300 series distribution panels. I opted for a Progressive Dynamics 9280 (80 amp) converter/charger which, because of its large size, required some redesign/fabrication to fit.

Some may find it interesting/informative (others may think WTF)

http://www.toymike.com/converter/

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I got the Parallax 7345RU conversion for $197. It was and easy install and is working great.

How ya doing Kathy? I just got back from prospecting in Central Oregon.

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I got the Parallax 7345RU conversion for $197. It was and easy install and is working great.

How ya doing Kathy? I just got back from prospecting in Central Oregon.

I did the 7345ru upgrade a couple years ago. It was a piece of cake. I am really happy with its operation. I run several two way radios and now never worry about blowing up anything. I really can not see why any one would need any more than 45 amps DC. I just bought another 7345ru for our next toy purchase. We are planning on selling the 4x4 sunrader and getting a 21 or 22 footer with a V6 and the 7345ru was on-sale at camping world for $152. Sitting on the shelf waiting for its new toy home!

Greg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Turbo man,

When you say "I really can not see why any one would need any more than 45 amps DC.", would you see a problem with going with the 55 amp upgrade?

The price difference was only $4 between the 45 and the 55 this week, so I went for the bigger one.

I did replace all of the primary wiring with #6 wire, to handle the larger load. Just discovered that the neat terminal block at the battery is actually an auto-reset circuit breaker. I will upgrade that this week.

Is more not better?

John

'86 21' Sunrader

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  • 1 month later...
Turbo man,

When you say "I really can not see why any one would need any more than 45 amps DC.", would you see a problem with going with the 55 amp upgrade?

The price difference was only $4 between the 45 and the 55 this week, so I went for the bigger one.

I did replace all of the primary wiring with #6 wire, to handle the larger load. Just discovered that the neat terminal block at the battery is actually an auto-reset circuit breaker. I will upgrade that this week.

Is more not better?

John

'86 21' Sunrader

I agree that for $4 difference get the bigger one. What I meant was that 45 amps is allot. So if the price difference is $50 calculate if you really need that xtra 10 amps. There is not much in our rigs that needs that much amperage. Being a Ham Radio enthusiast I do have a need for high amperage for some radio equipment but none are more than 20 amps on transmit. Here are the formulas for calculating power usage. P (watts) equals I ( current) times E (voltage). P= I x E. I (current) equals P (watts)divided by E (voltage). Voltage is found by dividing P by I. Hope that all made sense. I suppose you could exceed the 45 amp limit by running a 12 volt dc TV, VCR Margarita mixer and all your lights etc. Bottom line is If the 55 amp is only $4 more get that one. It will run cooler during higher current requests than the 45 amp unit. The auto reset breakers are very good. Keep a spare though as they do go bad and if for some reason one starts tripping when it shouldn't replacing it in the field will really help in figuring out if it really is the breaker or something else. Heat trips them and as they cool off they reset.

Greg

Greg

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I did the upgrade too, but when left plugged in my battery voltage gets to 12.4 and stops. I think it should get to, and keep, a float voltage of 13.7v. Anyone check their system voltage while plugged into shore power for more than one day?

Seamus McShank

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I did the upgrade too, but when left plugged in my battery voltage gets to 12.4 and stops. I think it should get to, and keep, a float voltage of 13.7v. Anyone check their system voltage while plugged into shore power for more than one day?

Seamus McShank

Yes it should be 13.7 + or -. If you disconnect the battery it ahould stay at 13.7. If its 12.4 with no battery its trouble.

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  • 2 months later...

I know that this is an old thread but I have done a tutorial on how to replace the converter/charger unit out of the 6300/7300 series distribution panels. I opted for a Progressive Dynamics 9280 (80 amp) converter/charger which, because of its large size, required some redesign/fabrication to fit.

Some may find it interesting/informative (others may think WTF)

http://www.toymike.com/converter/

Hi there, I saw your post and ordered the 80amp converter and the fusebox. I have a 87 Toyota Dolphin and the old converter setup looks similar but not exactly the same. May I request the following info from you:

(1) Could you give me more info on the part you cut the plug off from the new converter and set it up with a new breaker? More text description and pic would be highly appreciated.

(2) I have a problem with the new converter placement as my old converter was placed on the floor next to the wheel well so I really couldn't find extra space to fit it, any ideas?

Many thanks.

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