Tundrawolf Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 So there's a massive gaping hole in the floor near the side entrance of my 82 20' Dolphin RV. The only thing keeping everything from falling onto the ground is the fiberglass sheeting underneath the 3/4" plywood. So, we buy some new sheets of plywood to re- do the floor. I notice, where one of the walls is separating from the RV, that there appear to be screws going into the SIDE (The thin part) of the plywood. My stepdad looks at it, and says, "You can't do that! That's insanity!" I think maybe it's just a fluke, but it turns out, that *is* how they secured the walls to the floor, is in the sides of the plywood with screws. My question is, is there an easy way to replace the floor without literally tearing the entire cab portion apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Drill new holes for dowels and glue together, or use "biscuits". http://wood-dowels.exceldowel.com/viewitems/dowel-pins-biscuits/biscuits ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Is there any way you can you add lumber under the floor and then screw the lumber to the floor and to the sidewall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Tundrawolf, If you have the floor to wall joint exposed on the inside, Bob C's idea of adding a piece of wood is a good one. I'd use a piece of 2" x 2" common lumber, glued to the floor and side wall and then screw through the wall into the 2" x 2" and through the floor into the 2" x 2". Two part epoxy glue would be the best, but yellow carpenter's glue will work. Any chance you could post some photos here? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tundrawolf Posted July 15, 2013 Author Share Posted July 15, 2013 I wish I could post photos. My digicam died a few days ago. Actually, I need to re- do everything. The shell, I mean. My stepdad said not to buy 2x2's, as we can get 2 of them from a 2x4 for half the cost XD I plan on using polystyrene sheets as insulation, and expanding foam to seal the cracks. A gallon or two of elastomeric sealer and a few tubes of silicone caulking. It really is falling apart on the inside as it was stored by the ocean. And it's thirty years old. Being a carpenter, he said to build cabinets all over the inside (I like it more open- a bathroom only because it is mandatory) to reinforce everything, but I am not entirely sure if that is necessary. So, the plan is to strip the tin off (Is there a product I can use to repair the holes and tears in it? It's not in that great of condition. Something like a solder?) and duplicate the 2x2's, plus maybe an inch so I can actually stand up in it. I want to build some storage units on the underside of the RV, and maybe have them accessible from the inside, as well as outside. Electrical will be run alone the inside of the walls, where I can get to it, and upgrade/add/repair it as needed, in a tasteful fashion, of course. Plumbing will be PEX and run underneath the RV. I am on an extreme budget, but I need to do this. With the polystyrene sheeting, expanding foam, elastomeric sealer, and ripped 2x4's, I am hoping to get it done for less than $500. I already have the plywood. I would have liked to have gotten the marine grade plywood, but I cannot afford it. i will seal this plywood up good, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Its a long read, but try here for ideas about what your getting into. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/955664-how-home-build-rv-doesnt-look-like-behind.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 I wish I could post photos. My digicam died a few days ago. Actually, I need to re- do everything. The shell, I mean. My stepdad said not to buy 2x2's, as we can get 2 of them from a 2x4 for half the cost XD I plan on using polystyrene sheets as insulation, and expanding foam to seal the cracks. A gallon or two of elastomeric sealer and a few tubes of silicone caulking. It really is falling apart on the inside as it was stored by the ocean. And it's thirty years old. Being a carpenter, he said to build cabinets all over the inside (I like it more open- a bathroom only because it is mandatory) to reinforce everything, but I am not entirely sure if that is necessary. So, the plan is to strip the tin off (Is there a product I can use to repair the holes and tears in it? It's not in that great of condition. Something like a solder?) and duplicate the 2x2's, plus maybe an inch so I can actually stand up in it. I want to build some storage units on the underside of the RV, and maybe have them accessible from the inside, as well as outside. Electrical will be run alone the inside of the walls, where I can get to it, and upgrade/add/repair it as needed, in a tasteful fashion, of course. Plumbing will be PEX and run underneath the RV. I am on an extreme budget, but I need to do this. With the polystyrene sheeting, expanding foam, elastomeric sealer, and ripped 2x4's, I am hoping to get it done for less than $500. I already have the plywood. I would have liked to have gotten the marine grade plywood, but I cannot afford it. i will seal this plywood up good, though. The biggest thing you can get out of lumber yard 1/2 a 2X4 is 1 3/4 X 1 11/16 unless you go to the mill and buy rough cut then you can get two 2 x 1 15/16! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tundrawolf Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 The biggest thing you can get out of lumber yard 1/2 a 2X4 is 1 3/4 X 1 11/16 unless you go to the mill and buy rough cut then you can get two 2 x 1 15/16! Nooooooooooooooo!!! All is lost! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 If you're careful, most of the siding can be gotten off in one piece. The various moldings that you remove first should cover the old holes. For replacing the old siding that's not reuseable, there's an outfit in Hollister, CA. that sells new aluminum siding and they can probably match up anything you have. The paint job, of course, will be up to you. Unfortunately, I don't have the name of the company... One neat tool to get is an upholstery stapler for re-attaching the siding. They come in electric and pneumatic models and shoot the small, narrow staples that the siding was probably originally attached with. I removed a lot of my siding when I rebuilt the wheel well areas and I used a regular, pneumatic, narrow crown stapler shooting 1/4" wide x 1/2" long staples and while they held well, they were a bit of an overkill. If you're a member of the other Toyota RV site, toyota-campers@yahoogroups.com you can look in the photos section under '85 TOYOTA REBUILD to see how I repaired the rotted wood and delaminated plywood. Maybe it'll help... Anyway, good luck! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Tundrawolf, Just found the name of the RV supply place in Hollister, CA. It's All Rite RV Supply. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 No Dolphin siding can not be replaced. No one makes mesa pattern siding in fiberglass anymore and the last of it was sold off long ago. Only solution would be to find a motorhome in a junk yard. There is aluminum mesa pattern but heavier and larger wave pattern Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tundrawolf Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 Thanks for the company name, John! Hey... as far as insulating it goes, i want to use the radiant barrier coated polystyrene foam sheets. Should there be an air gap, or should I fill the entire area? What's a good thickness to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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