MontanaChinook Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 If you click "reply to this topic" up at the top of the page, rather than using the quick reply at the bottom, you should see a way to attach photos from your pc. If you already have them online somewhere, you can click the little photo icon up at the top. Everything is laid out very differently for me, though, depending on whether I'm using my laptop (Mac) or my ipad...The reply options are very different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyDeezNutzz Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Having trouble starting it up now. Pumped the clutch a few times, thought the battery was a bit low. One of the batts is kinda grounded to plastic so that will have to be rerun this weekend. Where is my transmission fluid dip stick by the way!! Any one have a service manual for the 78 hilux or chinook newport?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 I've got 1978 Hilux factory manuals for the engine, chassis and electrical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyDeezNutzz Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 is it an original or a pdf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyDeezNutzz Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 I definitely would like the 20r engine manual regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Originals. I have . . . Toyota "Electrical Wiring Diagram" book, USA and Canada for model year 1978. Covers Corolla, Corona, Cressida, Pickup, and FJ40 Land Cruiser. From Toyota Motor Sales LTD, printed in Japan December, 1977, book # 98891. Toyota "20R Engine" manual that covers the 20R engines used in Celica, Corona, and Pickups, 1975 to 1977. From Toyota Motor Sales LTD, printed in Japan August, 1977, book # 98116. Toyota Hi-Lux Chassis and Body repair manual. Covers model year 1978 Hi-Lux RN30 and RN40 series. From Toyota Motor Sales LTD, printed in Japan September, 1978, book # 98313. I also have a large British Haynes for Toyota Hi-Ace and Hi-Lux, 1969-1978. Not from Toyota but very comprehensive. Much more then a modern Haynes has. Published 1979, ISBN # o 85696 516 2. It's 260 pages. Also a not so great Clymer for "2 wheel drive pickups 1968-1981." 310 pages. March, 1982. ISBN # 0-89287-205-5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyDeezNutzz Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 hmmm I'd like the British Haynes for Toyota Hi-Ace and Hi-Lux, 1969-1978. The 20R manual would be awesome but I have a 78. How much are you looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 I'm not looking to sell any books. I collect them. Just mentioning that I have them in case anyone needs some specific info from them. You can buy the 20R factory manual for $20 at Amazon and maybe cheaper if you search ABE books. http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-20R-Engine-Repair-Manual/dp/B000KO0TGQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 No offense, but how about we keep your Chinook needs and wants in their own thread, and reserve this one for my project. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Labor Day camping trip. Full load of 4 people, two dogs, canoe and gear for a weekend of car camping. Wouldn't want that much weight on a regular basis, but it did fine. And also got one cupboard up finally, which meant I could actually hook up a light! Now I have one light, and fan. This thing is actually starting to be a real camper again... I'll hopefully take a photo in the daylight of the cupboard installed. The other side will happen in a couple weeks. Not happening before my trip on Friday. And my new countertop while we're at it. Went to Lowes and bought pre-made counter. I did this a couple weeks ago but hadn't taken new photos till tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 Got both cabinets up, and all but one light fixture wired in. Just one more light and the furnace thermostat to wire in, and the electricity is pretty much done. Just need to figure out how to build the cabinets that the last light and thermostat go into, and I can start on that. And obviously it's a bit "pale" in there, so after I see how much some darker curtains tone that down, I'll decide if I want to paint any of that light wood. Maybe dark curtains will be enough... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 Head gasket job. Still waiting for a longer trip to see if I really did this right or not...but so far no catastrophic failure! For the most part, other than stripped exhaust manifold bolt holes, it went pretty smooth. Exhaust manifold gasket. I don't know...I think it still had some life left in it! Glad I replaced it though... New head gasket Head back on after a trip to the machine shop for cleaning, testing, and resurfacing. Wish I had just had them rethread the exhaust manifold bolt holes, but I didn't know they were all stripped at that point. I helicoiled all the ones I could, so hopefully that'll be good enough to seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted October 26, 2013 Author Share Posted October 26, 2013 Just a little more work done, but at this point, every little bit makes a huge difference! Almost starting to feel cozy inside, instead of "gutted". New flooring and carpet. And I finally decided to just pull the old fridge and order a new one. Just need some trim around the edges now and it'll look pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share Posted October 27, 2013 Perfect! Just back over a ledge or body of water, and no cleanup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Perfect! Just back over a ledge or body of water, and no cleanup! So after you back out over the ledge how do you get the seat??? Or do you preposition yourself and let someone back you out over the abyss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted October 28, 2013 Author Share Posted October 28, 2013 Actually no...the Newport and Omega models have a door on the side, all the way towards the back, but don't have the back door like the pop top Chinooks. So you bring up a good point..! I'm not going to put too much thought into it since it's not going to happen anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Trim and new fridge! Unfortunately I built the counter top around the old fridge, and this new one is 2" shorter, and about 2" more narrow than the old one. I'll fill in that space, though. Propane line didn't need to be moved/modified at all, luckily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 I'm planning on doing something! But haven't figured out what yet. I made something for my cabinets, across from the fridge, like what you're talking about, I think. I just cut a piece of 1/4" plywood in the size of the cabinets, and cut out an opening for each shelf. I'll have photos soon. But yeah, I definitely will have to do something there. Plus the fridge install instructions say that I've got to completely close off everything behind the front trim of the fridge, just behind the door, from the "living space". Basically all of the fridge, other than the door, needs to in an enclosure and not be able to really "leak" out into the coach. So it sounds like I'll need to enclose that area better no matter what. So yeah...might as well make it look good while I'm at it. It's getting fun to be at the point of "finishing touches". But it takes more skill to make things look better, since this is the stuff everyone will see. So luckily my circular saw and jigsaw skills have been improving because of this project. It will be really nice when I'm to the point of figuring out where to put spice racks, paper towel dispenser...all that kind of work. It's not far off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Ya the back side of the refer is hot so you need to keep the cab sealed off from the heat. And good air flow through the backside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Thanks! Yeah, no one taught me any trade skills growing up. Would have been nice...but I'm learning a little now, and I seem to be "good enough" to get stuff done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakthecoast Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I've got my cab over area almost stripped, ready for water sealing. How did you attach your reflectix foil to the cab fibreglass? Liquid nails? And glue gun? You put up a foam layer over it too?. Your making swift progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 There are different 3M spray adhesives. My advice would be to get the nastiest, most toxic stuff you can find and use it. At first I used an auto upholstery adhesive. It worked...well enough to keep the reflectix in place long enough to put up wall and ceiling panels, but didn't work as well as I'd like. Then I found some more toxic stuff which works much better. My dog leaves the area as soon as he sees the can... I'll look at what it is some time today and get back to you. Thanks! I'm working on the final counter-top and cabinets right now. A friend of mine did a pattern in paper of the cab over, so I used that to cut the right size upholstery. Now I just need to fit it, and cut the same size foam insulation. On the Chinook, the whole cab over area was just foam with upholstery over it on the walls, right against the fiberglass. No actual wood panel or anything. I'm just doing the same thing with new material and better insulation. Crazy shape, all contoured and curved, with four windows...out of my league! Luckily a friend of mine used to reupholster sailboats and so she made me a pattern made of the area out of paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Zach, I just read your whole rebuild thread........You have done a super job.........my best wishes to your accomplishment's.....Donnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Zach, I forgot to ask, I like your led arrangement better than the one's that I am using...Any recall where you got them?...Donnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Thanks! LEDforRV.com I think they were something like this http://LED4RV.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 Just one of the many things I spent hours looking at online, and searching this forum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 A couple updates. The camper itself doesn't look too different, but it's going to very soon! Will look darn near done. Just this to dress up the cabinets a little. Here are some "before" pictures of my cabover. After I tore it up, before putting it back together. And some in-progess cutting of the pattern my friend made for me. And the the last wall panel, and the last counter top piece. Some fun cuts/measuring... Hopefully those two will go in this weekend. Not sure when I'll get to the cabover...but hopefully soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 I've got my cab over area almost stripped, ready for water sealing. How did you attach your reflectix foil to the cab fibreglass? Liquid nails? And glue gun? You put up a foam layer over it too?. Your making swift progress!This is what I've been using for attaching the foam insulation to the back of my wall panels, carpet to the baseboard, styrofoam insulation to my fridge etc. And what I would have used for the reflectix if I had known about it before. I'm sure there's something out there even better, but this has been working for me.http://www.amazon.com/3M-90-24-Spray-Adhesive-17-6-Ounce/dp/B0002BBV2S/ref=pd_sim_indust_1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Put up the last wall panel and counter top piece. Next will be some sort of cabinet up above it. I was looking for a cheap piece of plywood with some interesting grain to it, and I found that for the panel...but it doesn't match so well with the other panels. Oh well! Most of it will be covered up. And a little more work on the insulation and vinyl for the cab-over. No much left of the major projects...soon it'll just be the finishing touches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakthecoast Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Looking good, thanks for the 3 M adhesive link. I stopped by a FRP ( fibre glass reinforced plastic) distributer GTS today as they are researching an order for me some pretty cool bendable FRP board that looks like wood! Not sure how much they are but it is basically waterproof and would blend in well with the rest of my wood paneling. I know you are almost done but this is an option for folks. Check out marlite.com probably cost a fortune, my local lowes has nice maple paneling just like yours for $29 bucks a sheet, thats my backup plan. The supplier today gave me a free can of 3 M 77. Guess he wants my business. I'll try that for my reflectix. I started a thread on my Sunrader cab over build. Keep on truckin chinooking your inspiring us all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Interesting. When I first started this project I was looking at all kinds of different stuff for wall paneling. But plywood was the easiest and cheapest, and in all the stores, so that's what I went with. And the majority of whatever panels I was going to use are cut out for the huge windows, and covered up anyway. So there's not much left of whatever material I went with, in the end. But something you don't have to seal to get waterproof would be nice! Good luck. I'll check out your project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakthecoast Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Are you going to use a polyurethane varnish or some other sealer on your ply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Yes, I already sealed all the panels before they went into the camper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 A lot is happening, but isn't so far along that I'm taking photos and showing off, yet. But here are the new cushions. I lucked out, again. A friend of mine has restored some sailboats (very similar to the interior of a Chinook), and has worked in reupholstery. Her parents have a nice Mercedes RV, and the bench cushions were too firm for them. She got new foam for them, and has just had the old foam in storage. So I got their old, basically new, firm (perfect firmness for me) foam for free, plus she did the upholstery for me. I paid her for the hours, and paid for the cloth, but definitely not the kind of money she'd make if she was doing it as a business, instead of for a friend. Huge improvement in looks and comfort. Old Old vs new NEW Up next: Final cabinet. Cabover upholstery (pattern provided by the same friend). Bookshelf. Final light wired in and mounted, thermostat wired in and mounted, wire and mount CO/LP detector. Then the finishing touches like hooks, paper towel holder...crazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakthecoast Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Did you use regular screws to instal your paneling? leave them exposed? I'm thinking of using square drive screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MontanaChinook Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Yeah, you might be able to see in some of the older photos. I just used black, phillips head screws. I kind of like the way they look. And not being all that skilled, or having many tools, leaving them exposed was the easiest way to go, too. On the window frames and other higher-torque spots, I used square drive screws. I mean the best policy is to use the same type drive everywhere, so you don't need to keep changing bits when you work on stuff. But... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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