Donnie

Forget the RTV sealant..... Do not use a cork or a cork/rubber pan gasket. Do not use a "rubber pan gasket either" Source a "Duraprene" pan gasket, hammer flat any dimple's in the pan. put the gasket on DRY and securely tighten the bolts....This material is used by pro builders, it seals & will not need constant tightening. donnie

Can you mark where the yoke was when sitting assembled? If so, take the yoke off the shaft & slide it in by hand to see if it is touching anything. If the splines will allow it, and the yoke is .375 too long, a good machine shop with a lathe can shorten your "too long part"..... Do some measuring if the part can't be found

Richard is correct, as a former Transmission Shop Owner, now retired........if you pay more than 3 or 4 bux for this bushing, you are getting hammered..Federal Mogul or one of their subs make a LARGE % of these aftermarket bushings..........donnie

It appears to me that no one has mentioned : it is best to do the sanding, wire brushing, & painting the arms with them being removed from the vehicle. To do this lift the arms away from the glass to a stand up position, about 90 degrees...After lifting the arms away from the glass, the tension will be gone & then you can remove them .. NOTE:::::::::::::::Before trying to remove them, cover your glass with a couple of heavy blanket's, just in case one of the arms gets away from you & hits the windshield. The arm with the blade removed can possibly crack your glass...With the tension removed, you can pry the arm from the attaching "pivot" using a screwdriver & a rolled up towel as a fulcrum to help in the process.....donnie

Coming in late on this. I'm not sure if Toyota used a sight glass in their system back in the R12 daze, but if there is one, it can be a view into your line to see if there is adequate coolant........... Any leak in the system will show itself by the oel at the faulty 0 ring, fitting, compressor seal, etc. .... there is no sump in the compressor. The oel is suspended in the gas & travels thru the system... There is a safety plug somewhere in the system that will pop at extremely high pressure & allow the gas to escape...This can happen if there is blockage in front of the condenser, a faulty fan clutch, or overcharging the system....German vehicles located the safety plug low in the system, usually in the dryer so the escaping gas would exit below the engine......... I am not sure how much of this info applies to your vehicle........theory, yes.....sight glass not sure.......donnie

Hi all, I have been away chasing other interests & not checking in like I should.. Haven't been using my Chinook as much as I did... Our band broke up this past summer & only used it a few times.. I have been thinking about selling it if the Bus I am looking at comes down a few bux. I really miss the space that my old 4104 offered, I have my eye on a REALLY NICE one that is not being used much.. They take it to Fla. in the winter & seldom use it in the summer..Maybe to a couple races... I will post info in the classifieds if & when I make a decision....Saying HI to all my old friends.......................donnie

Some paint stores can scan your panel near the "off color area"...... enter the scan into their computer & blend a custom spray can that will match your color for about 30 bux ...in our area other areas will differ............... white's & cream's are least costly..............colors are a bit more.... yello & red are most costly due to the gold oxide needed......call around............. donnie

For used parts try..................... car-part.com just fill in your info & search ...........millions of pro's use this site................. HTH, donnie

Good point Fred, I though that the poster already owned this truck? Chinook coach assembly looks to be sitting a bit low on the frame... I can't tell from the photo's if there is any weather stripping between the truck cab & the Chinook body.. Seems to "squat" low in the rear...too... I would check the mounting areas real closely & the floor...also.. Possibly a stick it together & find a buyer deal....The interior appears to be laid out like my 1975 was ...counter area, the canvas pulls for the roof, ice box WAS under the rear mounted stove.. not sure if there is a frig up front of the counter or an ice box. Also there is no furnace under the bed, my 78 has one, the 75 did not... I realize that many interior options were offered.. & I am not an authority by any means on the Chinook....just opinion's..Donnie

Hi, there was a small opening, about 2" in the area where the previous owner has cut out a large square.. It was capped with a plastic threaded cap that you could screw off to allow access to the mechanism that would allow you to use the jack handle & the 20" + rod located behind the passenger seat to lower the chain that held the spare tire in place to the ground... I doubt that the tool's that I mentioned are included in the truck.... Can you look into the "opening" & see any way that the spare tire is being held into place? Originally you would unscrew the cap. Then using the long rod & jack handle, you would insert the rod into an orifice in the retaining mechanism & crank it counter-clockwise, which would unwind the chain & lower the tire to the ground.. These parts are subject to have been neglected as the spare tire may not have been removed in YEARS. I had to take my assy. down & clean up the rust & corrosion, lube it & get it back into place........ not an EZ task, but if you ever need to access your spare.... It needs to operate. I have a '78 Chinook & will be more than glad to help with advise... although I am WEAK in the area of getting photos into this forum.......................Donnie

..I cannot find the blinker 'flasher' switch tho'..and I've torn the whole dash apart..why would a previous owner dismantle such a thing? Hmnn oh well..I need a manual... Are you looking for the "flasher" ? Like your turn signals do not work? 4way flashers do not work? do your turn signals lite up, but do not flash? I'm not clear on your problem....... My Chinook is not here where I am, but if you clear up my confusion, I will check my flasher location the next time that I go over to where it is kept... I THINK that I know what you are saying, but not sure.... donnie

Hi, I'm coming in late on this post as I don't watch this site as much as I used to. SORRY !............ on the manual search, The ATSG manual is used by nearly ALL shops...The ATRA manual is basically the same. so save your time here. If you wish send me a PM , letting me know how far you are willing to reach out to find a reputable shop , I will see if I can help you.....I don't need your exact location, but the nearest large metro area could help....donnie

LED bulb's should not give off enough heat to melt your lens? I can touch mine after they have been on for hours.. Also LED'S are available from "warm white to super brite" & use about 1/10 the wattage of a standard 1156 bulb.. A lot of homework to choose the correct bulb for your application as the LED field is loaded with confusing information. watts, lumens, candlepower etc.. donnie

Don't spend $164 for a book... Look on line: both ATRA & ATSG manuals are available for 20 to 30 bux.. In what city & state are you located ? Or how far are you from a fairly large city.? There are a lot of Good, Honest shops around the country. I have contacts in most all states & can direct you to a reliable shop if you need one... My shop has been closed for a few years as I am now retired, but still keep in touch with many old friends all over the country........tell your dad, this trans is an EZ build.. if he has mechanical skills. .. he can do it. ............donnie I'm not quite sure now if you have the original trans from the truck or the one you bought at Auto zone?????? I

To all: The transmission shiftpoint's are determined by three main inputs= they are, the vehicle speed, the position of the throttle, & the load on the engine... a pre-set criteria must be met for an upshift to occur...... donnie

Markwilliam, I happened to notice your location.......... Did you have you work done at Jim Currier' s Shop...if so....you made an excellent choice.. They are great folks. .......donnie

You are right an independent shop is the place to take it preferably an ATRA shop............................I agree, donnie

Most Motorhome door locks are easily compromised.... 3 or 4 pin lock's. If you are looking for BETTER security.. I would suggest a MEDECO deadbolt or ABLOY.. these are both good lock's Costly, but worth every penny. donnie

If you plan to pull a boat= go with the V8 gas------------- if you want better mileage= 617------------ I was able to get great mileage with the turbo 617, but lacked power in a 3500 # vehicle with 235 x 16 inch tires & 4:10 gears.. it drove fine using a Fairy overdrive & splitting gears, but I would not have tried pulling anything behind it.... just my opinion

Not sure what you are attempting to do, but I have installed the 617 Mercedes 5 cyl diesel into two vehicles..These are GREAT engines.... ran one for about 10 years in a series Land Rover on cooking oel. major oel pan work was needed on that vehicle.. What is it you are wanting to do & wanting to know?................ donnie

I'm sure that this has been covered a dozen times, but I'm a bit unclear, pun intended, on the use of Zep floor wax on ALL surfaces.. I painted my Chinook 3 years ago.. Complete cab & cabin. There are a couple of areas that were masked, lightly sanded & painted on the cabin to match the paint on the truck cab.. So the composite material of the cabin has some areas of newer paint. Are you folks that are Zepping your rigs doing cab & cabin...... or only using this on the composite bodies & using an auto body conventional wax on the cab? Can or would you use this on a newer painted cab..??... I am unsure as I see this mostly used for restoring rig's that have been pretty much neglected.. I am not looking for an EZ out... & have no problem using a conventional polish........ I am open for suggestions, if an auto polish is recommended....... there are SO MANY polishes out there... what to use?.. I tried to send a photo, but NO GO......... there are photos of my Chinook on this site somewhere, but I can't find them.......................... let 'er rip, Donnie

Derek, I was writing a fairly long post, but forum timed out on me.. Should use Word. To the point, I am only against running 2nd gear at hi-way speeds on flat ground for extended periods of time. Yes down shift when it is called for.... Your rationalization is correct.........a lower gear ratio will allow the use of 3rd & 4th gear when before the 4:10 would not allow it If you re-read my previous post on this subject.. I DID include the original question from markwilliam in the quote.. Sorry about the use of the large font, If it is offensive..I will not use it ..donnie

to WME : before you start lecturing me on the processes' & procedures' of automatic transmissions, I suggest that you look at some of my earlier posts on TRANSMISSIONS. My advice was to Mark William, the original post in this thread= he asked about running 55 MPH on the hi-way..for extended periods.. I advised against it.... THAT'S ALL, no other implication's.........NONE my reply was to answer HIS question................. donnie

This is what MY REPLY was addressing.......from the ORIGINAL question ! ! !...Have you ever seen a blown planet??... Running 55 mph in 2nd gear will NOT hurt ANY of the friction materials... wear on the friction element's happens during the time when the trans is shifting.. more wear on the up shift than on the coast downshift...But I would advise against running 55 mph for extended periods of time in 2nd gear.......... that was the original question................... thus my reply .................donnie