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'89 Sunrader: aux battery location? Battery isolator location?


wepeterson47

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I inherited an 89 Sunrader from my relatives who are in no posiiton to provide me any info.

Anyone know where the aux. battery would likely be on a 21' rear dinette model? Would it be near the inverter by chance?

Same question for a battery isolater.

I don't see an aux battery anywhere in the MH so I'm wondering if it was removed for some reason.

Thanks in advance. wep

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i dont know the sunrader i might be wrong but i thought the rv battery went in the box on the back end the battery isolater is often under the hood that part you mentioned is called a converter changes 120 volt to 12 volts runs most everthing charges rv battery LINDA S WOULD KNOW more i think

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On the outside drivers side there is a door for a compartment behind where your closet is. Battery should be in there. Battery isolater is in the engine compartment. Mine is older so I think different isolater but follow wires from alternater and they take you to the isolater.

Linda S

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On the outside drivers side there is a door for a compartment behind where your closet is. Battery should be in there. Linda S

Only small door and storage for 110V cord (and door further back which is access to back of fridge) on driver's side. F.W.I.W. it's a 21' Rear Dinette model. Is it possible there is only one battery?

wep

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What are these? They're wired directly to the battery .

IMG_4320.jpg

Yes that round one is your isolater. It works by separating the charge from your alternater to the house battery and the truck battery. That way they both get charged but they are not directly connected so you can run down the battery in the house but still get the rv started. Did ya find the house battery though

Linda

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The large round one is the isolator, Its a relay that connects the house battery to the truck battery. The two small square things are self resetting circuit breakers. If you have a short, these things will click like a turn signal as they reset and pop, reset and pop, etc.

NOTE TO CHECK - Whoever owns this, you need to verify that you really do have an Isolator, and not a starter relay. Most mechanical Isolators are three wire, They have the two large connectors and one small connector. The small connector feeds an electrical coil inside the unit that energizes the relay, the other side of the internal coil is physically connected to the case. (It gets it power from the small terminal, and is returned through the case to ground.

I've seen isolators that have isolated coils, i.e. one side of the coil is NOT connected to the case, but comes out to another terminal connection. These generally cost a little more, and there is no need to have the isolated coil in our application. This is why I say to just check on this, as it is unusual to see this type of isolator in this application.

The reason this caught my attention, a can type starter relay can look exactly like this. you can tell the difference with a couple observations, a Starter relay, the two small terminals will probably be marked with a "S" and an "I".

ALSO - And this is the important part, starter relays are not meant for continuous duty, The case will be very, very hot if left energized for more than a few minutes. i.e. burn your hand hot. If it doesn't burn you hand after being on for about 10 minutes, its probably OK

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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The large round one is the isolator, Its a relay that connects the house battery to the truck battery. The two small square things are self resetting circuit breakers. If you have a short, these things will click like a turn signal as they reset and pop, reset and pop, etc.

NOTE TO CHECK - Whoever owns this, you need to verify that you really do have an Isolator, and not a starter relay. Most mechanical Isolators are three wire, They have the two large connectors and one small connector. The small connector feeds an electrical coil inside the unit that energizes the relay, the other side of the internal coil is physically connected to the case. (It gets it power from the small terminal, and is returned through the case to ground.

I've seen isolators that have isolated coils, i.e. one side of the coil is NOT connected to the case, but comes out to another terminal connection. These generally cost a little more, and there is no need to have the isolated coil in our application. This is why I say to just check on this, as it is unusual to see this type of isolator in this application.

The reason this caught my attention, a can type starter relay can look exactly like this. you can tell the difference with a couple observations, a Starter relay, the two small terminals will probably be marked with a "S" and an "I".

ALSO - And this is the important part, starter relays are not meant for continuous duty, The case will be very, very hot if left energized for more than a few minutes. i.e. burn your hand hot. If it doesn't burn you hand after being on for about 10 minutes, its probably OK

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

My isolater in my Sunrader looks just like this one. 4 way is just what they used. Separate wire for the ground

Linda S

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Your battery should be at the rear of your rader behing your storage pod. Flip the pod down and you'll see an access door, That's where your battery will be.

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Your battery should be at the rear of your rader behing your storage pod. Flip the pod down and you'll see an access door, That's where your battery will be.

Different floor plans have the battery and converter in different places. I can see yours is the rear door rear bath plan so that is where yours is. The rear dinette battery has a separate battery compartment on the outside drivers side. His is a rear dinette. Not all Sunrader have a storage pod either. it was an option

Linda S

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