fullyhuman Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 (edited) hey. my name is Lisa, and i'm a newbie who found a very well maintained '82 sunrader, 88k, that i *may* purchase today. but it has the (well maintained) original axle with four new tires. i have been researching this issue madly. it seems there may be a way to improve the axle with a full floating kit without a full swap? what is this and what might it cost? how much does an axle replacement cost if you junkyard the axle locally? is the original axle possibly OK with care about the load? i have yet to be able to find reliable numbers on per tire load and don't yet understand if it might be better to remove the dually wheels, at minimum, or just leave well enough alone...? this sunrader is 17"7" long so not likely recalled, but i know that is not necessarily meaning that it should not have the axle replaced. i am willing to be meticulous about weight & will not use the holding tanks, be on top of tire pressure, and do what i can to attend to bearings (listening as i drive, checking for heat if I can learn how). my seasoned and very trustworthy mechanic, who did the inspection, does *not* think it would be a problem to continue on the axle as is, even after i related a lot of information about the history of the axle recall & he thinks if it ever did begin to fail there would be some warning sign that he thinks i'm sharp enough to catch. i am quite sharp. that said, i am a single parent traveling with my son who is my entire life, so i need to choose a plan that seems genuinely smart/safe, if not the absolute most foolproof safety plan via full replacement. the cost of full replacement, if it is $2000 minimally as i estimate, makes the difference between whether i can afford to buy this otherwise IDEAL motorhome or not & this one, i have no doubt, will sell quickly at that price even with the axle as is. any advice would be very helpful... thanks much for your time! lisa Edited April 14, 2012 by fullyhuman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Weigh it, front and rear axle weights are essential in making this decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tumolt Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 The original dually wheel rim is from my experience a one piece affair that puts too much stress on the outer wheel axle bearings when the unit is overloaded with weight beyond the capacity for which the unit was intended. With that in mind, should you want to put stuff in the camper and you're concerned about weight, then use caution. Otherwise it maybe alright to continue to use the lower weight capacity rear end. I elected to swap out mine with a dually 1 ton full floating axle which was used out of a 1989 Toyota Uhaul truck that I bought for $700. I had to spend another $600. to have it installed but I wanted to tow a trailer that would hold the spare tires, commercial grade jack, extra parts, belts, hoses, camping gear, etc. that would not fit inside the camper. Remember, these were made for light duty, not heavy duty. The 20r with 4 speed manual tranny works well when I am not towing the trailer and I won't go over 45 mph with the trailer in tow because of the weight distribution which caused the front end to ride higher than if not towing the trailer. So I would have a backup plan for the future just in case the rear end should become a problem. Otherwise leave it alone and just have the rear looked at from time to time by someone who specializes in servicing rear ends. New lube in the rear, new brakes on the rear which should be done around 60-80000 miles would be cheaper than replacement of the axles. If there is wear and the bearings are worn, then the mechanic should tell you to upgrade to new axles and bearings. Also they inspect the ring and pinion gear when they change out the old lube in the rear. That said, it seems as a newby you have a good grasp of going on a trip more prepared than some who have more experience. I wouldn't pay more than $4000. for the unit if the owner has no receipts for repairs or maintenance of the vehicle and if they do be prepared to ask questions like overheating the motor, water pump replacement, hoses, belts, alternator, fan clutch, clutch if manual, tranny service if automatic, radiator, tune up, carburator, propane system, water system, roof leaks, tires, brakes, and make a note of everything that wasn't done and how much it would cost to fix if it were to fail. If your unit has been well taken care of, then you can assume that with proof that you have a good foundation in which to pump more money into over time with less cost in repairs. Just want you to be prepared before jumping in. Oh, those skylights crack from heat and should be replaced every 3 years or so, even with the heavy skylight covers that are available as an aftermarket add on. Walmart sells the heavy skylight covers cheaper than the motorhome parts places by more than 50%. They allow you to keep the skylight open even when it rains to keep the unit cool when parked or when traveling or at night when you are asleep. Asked owner if he has to add oil to the motor between oil changes. Some early 22r and 20r motors have a bad oil ring design and there are replacement (not factory original) piston and ring sets that have a better and bigger oil ring to prevent oil consumption between oil changes. There is a lot to know about your unit. Get as much information as possible before hand and make a log on what was done, needs to be done, and keep a record of all service you do over time. A good precaution would be to change the water pump, thermostat, and radiator cap. Any of these can fail over time and can cost you a lot more money should the unit overheat because of these relatively cheap and inexpensive parts going bad. Good luck with your new home. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tumolt Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Also suspension should be looked at. Most shocks should be replaced every 50-60000 miles. If the unit has airbags on the rear they maybe shot and need replacement. I paid less money by shopping around for new ones on ebay. I kept the guys name and number and have referred several of the members of this forum to him. The newer ones needed to be fitted so the installation was part of my rear end changeout that I mentioned I did in my first replay. New shocks, aleignment, inspect tires, passenger car tires are ok replacement (980 lb. load) is sufficient. 6 ply tires are better (1200 lb. load) cost about $100-125 each) but it won't really make a difference unless you pull a lot more weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 ... passenger car tires are ok replacement (980 lb. load) is sufficient. Sorry, can't agree with that. Passenger tires are dangerous. You need at least Load Range C (6 ply). For a few bucks more you can get Load Range D (8 ply). Many have bought them recently for ~$100/tire, out the door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Depending on your actual weight you maybe could run a single D range tire on the rear. A D is rated at 1847lb. When they made your Sunrader there was NO D range tire, thats why a lot of them ended up using fake duels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tumolt Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Six times 980 lbs. equals 5080 lbs. weight. Which I am sure you are not over that. The sidewall is more flexible so you should keep a check on tire inflation which should be 35 lbs. A 6 ply tire is thicker and heavier which is what everyone who full time R.V.'s uses, but it is stiffer and noisier than passenger car tires and require more gas to move on the road . Irrespective of what people tell you, all tires age over time, get cracked and dry rotted. I change tires every 20 to 25000 miles so I have pleanty of tread on the road for safer driving in wet weather. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tumolt Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Sorry, 6 X 980 is 5880 lbs. which is less than your vehicle should weigh by about 800 lbs. Safety first as I always say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Is your or your traveling companions lives worth gambling over 1-2k? If this is a 21 foot rig the answer should be a resounding no. at $5k you should buy it and put a proper axle on it from a junkyard. I would be prepared to have at least 2k available for the swap. At that point you will have a reliable tank like rear and never have to worry if your wheels will shore off along with the brakes and send you on a tour of the mountainside. The other nice thing about the full floater dually is the built in redundancy if you get a flat. you can always limp to a tire shop to place an order or get a butyl plug. The fake duallys are a front row ticket to finding out the existence of God, Allah, Buddha, or if those Magic underwear really work. Better rims and tires like Derek mentioned could be a cheaper alternative but will leave you flat disabled if you ever encounter a nail... and remember there's a heck of a lot of nails with all these bank repossessions and home flipping going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 you can also convert the rear end to a full floater single tire (load range D or E even, E has a load range in excess of 3000lbs per tire ) axle with full floater kit, sure to be less expensive than a full on new dually axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) hey all - thank y'all SO much for this information, which it seems many of you are asked to repeat ad nauseum on this forum by newbies like me. i did decide to purchase, as i couldn't imagine letting this excellent condition, essentially rustless, thoroughly maintained, mechanic approved, receipts-and-all local sunrader go. i made the purchase knowing i did not have a full decision or full information yet about my action plan for the axle, banking on the fact that if it comes down to it, i can in all likelihood resell later in the spring for what i paid when RV fever hits, even with full axle disclosure, and at least i'll know a oooo of a lot more than when i started about toyota MH ownership. plus, the satisfaction of just simply driving it home... oy! i have actively wanted one of these for years now and i'd of course really love to keep this beautiful rig. i truly can't afford to put $2k more into it even if it means i need to resell for safety reasons, and thus lose the rig after having only a little time for me and my two year old to climb around in it parked. that said, i am utterly willing to consider any and all safety plan that is less costly than that but still cuts the mustard. i have not yet weighed it but i will do so ASAP and report back. so far the options i am aware of are these: 1 - drive this 17'7"er with its current axle, its current freshly replaced bearings, & its current new-ish dually tires, taking great care with PSI and load with full weight/load information about axles, per-tire weight, unloaded and loaded weights including the weight of gas, various water/sewage tank loads, all mammalian beings, and objects down to the last french fry - this is clearly a contentious solution, but some say is OK...? 2 - do as above but remove "fake" dually outer wheels? this is not clear if it is an advocated option. 3 - just upgrade the rims and tire (s)? i am confused about this as i thought the issue was with the axle and/or bearings failing due to accumulated strain from flexion, not the tires failing, but also excited if it would be both safe enough and the most affordable. i am a gifted craigslister/ebayer if i know exactly what i'm looking for, and about to teach myself more about junkyard hunting, so i may be able to do this somewhat cheaply given time and specifications. i would love more information about this option, especially possible cost, but as i said, i am not sure how it addresses the axle issue as i understand it. is this a possible solution because i would swap down to a single badass tire/rim set that could take the weight but would eliminate the barbell effect? is it the axle itself that would fail/snap or the bearings that would give out and send the flaming duallys trotting down the interstate? would the previous 88k on the duallys have already permanently compromised the axle, even with its new bearings and such, if i swapped the rims/tires out for a better single set? & would the axle weight rating (presumably) remain unchanged even with new tires/rims, so extreme awareness about load, etc would still be required? 4 - do a full swap, which sounds like it will cost at least $2k even if i get a junkyard axle...? 5 - use a full floater kit? i'm not sure if this falls into the category of "beefing up" that is ultimately meaningless or not, but i would LOVE more information about this option too including possible price ranges. 6 - insert your brilliance here? much love and many thanks for any further help, from a single mom hoping to RV it all summer to turn rent money into gas money and time spent chasing her son around in the woods! Edited April 8, 2012 by fullyhuman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 ps - the term "a oooo of a lot more" is courtesy the forum-bot, not me ; ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 We will get it all worked out so you can keep your Sunrader and have it be safe. Private messaged you, dont worry it wont cost you 2000 dollars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Maybe you could give a bit more info on exactly what it is you've bought. Is it the common (nominal) 18' rear dinette Sunrader? And what tires are currently fitted? Brand, size, etc. And where are you located? Maybe we can turn up an axle somewhere near. There was one recently being offered for $400, but shipping would be $$$$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 hi and welcome to the group we all enjoy helping each other. Sounds like a nice sunrader enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 thanks for the welcome! & thanks again to you all for being willing to share what you know, it means so very much. it is the (almost) 18' rear dinette, which is my favorite layout of any toyota camper, so, hooray! 4 spd. it is not here with me so i can't go check tire specs but will report back tomorrow, i know they are all identical, both front and rear, if that is helpful in the meantime. the whole list for whomever is interested: almost everything in great condition, parked on concrete all its life, a plethora of receipts and maintenance records spanning two owners. the bad: carburetor runs a touch rich according to my mechanic but not a concern per se, there is one exhaust gasket that could be replaced, idles a little rough in the beginning, minor oil leak, and either the gas gauge or sending unit needs replacement for the gauge to work. could perhaps use a tuneup but if so, my mechanic did not mention or suggest it. oh, and it's not a 4x4, i'd say that's bad ; ) apart from that, every.single.thing was in running order as of time of purchase - clutch is good with significant life left, brake pads were new (though with middle-aged rotors), new shocks, new batteries, good newer tires, newly replaced bearings and seals, new hot water tank, more bits of new things that i can't even remember now like spark plugs. a somewhat newer cassette deck that played a tape adapter connected to an MP3 player without complaint, which is my preferred method anyhow ; ) rumored to get 19mpg at 55mph but i figure it'll get the typical 12-17 like nearly all of them. interior partially updated with new carpet, very clean and little wear, everything working on every sort of power system - i checked painstakingly. rear dinette bed rebuilt to be sturdier, new cushion covers, new roof vent covers, homemade front passenger window AC unit, nice little touches everywhere like a step cover, the storage tarp, wheel covers, a campsite ground cover, a cab privacy screen, a windshield cover, the spare of course, and DC air compressor and all wrenches/screwdrivers/ratchets/etc related to use in various little ways included. my mechanic, who is as of yet uninitiated into the specific glory of these motorhomes, was trying to talk me out of it on the sheer basis of age and had little mechanically to build his case upon, though he tried. he basically said somewhat disapprovingly - "well, it is 30 years old..." about twelve times. though the man himself is 60 ; ) admittedly, this motorhome *is* older than me! the water pump has not been replaced so that is on the bucket list now along with the thermostat and radiator cap as suggested. all visible hoses, belts, radiator, exhaust manifold, other enginey bits i know not how to name, bearings, suspension etc were looked over closely by said skeptical and experienced mechanic. no roof or window leaks. water system fully functional, propane system fully functional with updated 20# tank setup and modern regulator. happy working 3 way fridge. has a newer gloriously tempting 3000# hitch, though of course i know that is far far far more than adviseable and i'll probably stick to 500 lbs or less. included a sturdy homemade hitch-insert rack to use for minor cargo and two bottle and two scissor jacks for leveling along with extra bumper mounts he welded to support the jacks and the rack. they sold because they finally got sick of bumping into each other and upgraded to a larger RV which was patiently awaiting its new parking spot across the yard. based on the list prices i've seen, this seems to be a fair to possibly good price for what it is. i'd be happy to hear what y'all think of its value, one way or another, so i can keep on learning. it is the most i have ever paid for ANY vehicle in my entire life, but as a toddler chasing single mom who's not very quick mechanically and who lacks a garage full of tools (or a garage at all for that matter), and neither is dating or related to anyone with those skills either, getting something this turnkey felt very valuable. i'm sure i'll have plenty more repair learning experiences along the way, but i feel lucky that as of today i have not started my journey with a long list. oh, except the axle ; P i still can't believe it's mine, even if possibly temporarily, and i can't even climb around in it and whoop and jump on the bed yet as it's parked a half hour away currently. gah! oh well. on to solving this axle situation acceptably. thanks all, again, for your time; my son already likes to chatter about his "truck-house"! lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) oh, and i'm in minneapolis! i may have a relatively easy way to move an axle up from the greater chicago area or within a reasonable distance of gary, indiana or anywhere along that route from MN,, if that helps at all. ditto for anywhere between missoula, mt and minneapolis. i tried to email chuck the indiana axle guy just to see if he was still sitting on any of them, but the email bounced... Edited April 8, 2012 by fullyhuman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Its the fake duallys that are your main concern. They are the death trap. Now that I know its not a 21 footer, I am more at ease with the single rear tire solution for you though my personal opinion is still to go for axle replacement because real duallys are more flat redundant. I had my axle done while on leave for hernia surgery and hunted one down from several junk yards while on pain meds and still oversaw the project get done while my wife and kids thought me to be insane. I too didn't have the spare cash but made it happen. Now I am insane and have a sweet rig. I paid about 2k for the swap, but hands off had all parts shipped and taken care of for me and had shock plates fabricated from 3 different shops. I saw a guy visit the midwest toyota rally last year with a BRAND NEW axle kit from the recall that he picked up for $450 with 7 wheels! they were all in the back of his pickup truck; he didnt even have his motorhome yet. That guy is my hero. The parts can be had and with a little elbow grease for cheap. Some things to know: the replacement axle will need new wheels; these are 6 lug also known as the "big six". You may reuse the tires on the stock 5 lug wheels. If you have the 6 lug axle from a donor motorhome or uhaul, try hard as heck to get the shock mount plates( the ones you have wont work for the bigger axle) otherwise you'll be having some made like i did (no biggy for me I know guys) but if you don't know a machine and metal shop it will be a pain as most junkyards wont have that component. try hard to score the wheels with the axle; i was lucky and got 6 with mine. Also pay attention to the ratio of the axle; different ratios perform in different ways match it to your intended target terrain and driving needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 "... propane system fully functional with updated 20# tank setup and modern regulator." Sounds good as long as the 20# tank isn't a standard BBQ tank lying on it's side. This would be dangerous. Just looked on www.car-part.com. You MIGHT find an axle for $150 here:- St. Francis Auto Parts USA-MN(St.-Francis) 1-763-753-4698 But it might not be a DRW. Or for $360 here:- Elmers Auto Salvage USA-WI(Fountain-City) 1-800-362-5004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 thanks, i'll look! what make/model did you search to produce the $150 maybe in st. francis? is there a place i can look for a full list of workable donor vehicles, since it sounds like this axle could come from many models, but as far as i can tell, you have to search one by one? also, is anything here useful? http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pts/2941675011.html i'm assuming not because it's 4x4, unless a conversion is a lot easier than it sounds, but if there is any way to make use of this rear axle (to go 4x4 or just to swap somehow), these are $50 apiece and 3 minutes away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 i also found this, will this work? 1979 Rear Axle Toyota Truck20R,4 SP 10K455$150Arrow Auto Parts RP+ Member USA-WI(Green-Bay) E-mail 1-800-695-2776 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Redundant tire with a duelie setup. Question how many of you run duelies on your car??? Just learn to change a flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 My car doesn't have 5 lugs in the front and 6 lugs in the back... kinda hard to change a flat if you dont have the right wheel on board don'tcha think? Not everyone has a full 6 setup or two spare tires like you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 the 20# tank is upright and passenger side bumper mounted very solidly. : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 & i do know how to change a flat : ) i also would probably be doing so with a howling kid in the cab. the redundancy would therefore be nice, but i can't afford to do the axle swap for the typical price simply for that bonus (or for any other reason). i can see going for a full swap if i can do it for a few hundred, total (and i know i'm pretty much dreaming there) or if in the end it is the ONLY way to go safety wise and i can find SOME way to afford it, like i trip over an easter basket full of gold dubloons or start a drug cartel or something. beyond that, i would love to continue deepening my understanding of the various options. re: the tire upgrade possibility - is it going to be possible to retain the original inner rims and just beef up the tires on them to a load D & go to single tires? if not, is it possible to find heavier duty rims that have the same lug nut pattern? what would be the approximate cost for new and for used rims and for new and for used load D tires? would this option need to be combined with a full floater kit to be safe, and if so, what is the additional cost of that? & presumably, the caution with overall weight would remain necessary and be based on the same axle limitations as now, yes? with an axle swap, the tires would remain the same size as the current 5-lug original & i could swap them onto the new 6-lug rims, as said above? i got the impression somewhere that tire size would change so just wanting to confirm. would there be any gain in ability to carry weight with the full swap, i.e. a greater load rating on the axle or whatnot, or would i still need to be just as careful? i know the current tires would have something to do with that, if they were going to be put on, & i will get that info ASAP. ditto with weight. just can't git 'er done on easter. more soon, i hope, thank you all again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 FYI, its most likely your sending unit and not the gauge thats bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 & i do know how to change a flat : ) i also would probably be doing so with a howling kid in the cab. the redundancy would therefore be nice, but i can't afford to do the axle swap for the typical price simply for that bonus (or for any other reason). i can see going for a full swap if i can do it for a few hundred, total (and i know i'm pretty much dreaming there) or if in the end it is the ONLY way to go safety wise and i can find SOME way to afford it, like i trip over an easter basket full of gold dubloons or start a drug cartel or something. beyond that, i would love to continue deepening my understanding of the various options. re: the tire upgrade possibility - is it going to be possible to retain the original inner rims and just beef up the tires on them to a load D & go to single tires? if not, is it possible to find heavier duty rims that have the same lug nut pattern? what would be the approximate cost for new and for used rims and for new and for used load D tires? would this option need to be combined with a full floater kit to be safe, and if so, what is the additional cost of that? & presumably, the caution with overall weight would remain necessary and be based on the same axle limitations as now, yes? with an axle swap, the tires would remain the same size as the current 5-lug original & i could swap them onto the new 6-lug rims, as said above? i got the impression somewhere that tire size would change so just wanting to confirm. would there be any gain in ability to carry weight with the full swap, i.e. a greater load rating on the axle or whatnot, or would i still need to be just as careful? i know the current tires would have something to do with that, if they were going to be put on, & i will get that info ASAP. ditto with weight. just can't git 'er done on easter. more soon, i hope, thank you all again! Yes, I figured as much on the howling kid situation; I have 2 year old and 4 year old girls. I also know that with that much weight on a single wheel the blow out could be devastating with only one tire regardless of ply. I saw a toy home at the midwest rally last year that had one of the two rear duallys blow out and it took out her entire waste tank along with the wheel well. She still made it there. I can only imagine the explosion on just one tire. Do not mistake this situation for being like a "car" as two here have suggested. While some of these jokers like to ask questions.. the real question fired back at them should be "what's on your rig?"...Nuff said. yes the tires will swap from 5 lug to 6 lug non 4wd wheels. I did it myself, no lies. I am not sure about finding tires with those required ratings on those rims; perhaps Derek knows. My bet would be that you would need to get new non standard rims. by the time you get done buying the tires and new wheels you may be surprised at what you have spent...my guess is at least $900... http://toyotamotorho...ch=1 The above link is a good read. The common consensus in it is that you will need new rear rims and wheels; that means you would need to carry two spares if keeping the old wheels (which may or may not be safe) in the front leaving the following scenerios assuming one is prepared and keeps both spares in order to be able to just "learn how to change a tire" : 1.) 3 new rims and tires carrying 2 spares (also adds dead weight of extra spare and rim to gross) $600 GOOD 2.) 5 new rims and new tires (if matching for best single rear wheel setup) $1000 BETTER 3.) 1 spare axle and 4 rims $(Unknown but listen to Maxx and Derek to keep cheap maybe even beating option #2) BEST (can carry one spare for front to get you to the shop) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Your 84 was probably shipped out with faux duallies. All of those Ive seen were had a stock Toyota 5 bolt rear hub, some used adapters, some welded two rims together. But they all used the 5 lug somehow. So easy answer is stock Toyota 5 bolt rims from a junk yard. I think maybe, possibly that Ford Ranger 15" rims will fit and that will open up a larger choice of tires, especially as you don't have 4WD. How much the narrower tread will effect the handling is an unknown. If you to to the 1 ton setup you could get away with 5, 6 bolt rims, an 1 adapter for the front, that way there would not be any limping across the desert on 3 rear tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tumolt Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Good luck and happy camping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90toydolphin Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 it's lasted 30 years with the set up it has. is it perfect or even preferable, doubt it. my thought is if it's well maintained, bearings good and serviced, good tires, good shocks etc, only drive on paved roads, keep the weight in line with what it says to, weight limits somewhere on the truck, often on one of the door jams, might make it another 30 years. even the heaviest duty set up with the best tire available can blow a tire and cause lose of control of the vehicle. if it doesn't have six or eight ply tires make sure you keep the weight down to what they are rated at. just don't ask it to do anything it wasn't designed to do, that could spell disaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulwyk Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 FullyHuman: It's a 18' Sunrader? If yes, you're OK with the original axle. The 18 Sunrader is one of the great classic Toyota Motorhomes, I've never heard of one breaking an axle...certainly not within the last 20 years. Just keep it light. They'll run 200,000 miles or more. Don't let that "death trap" crap scare you. Get out there on the road and HAVE FUN with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Fact:- The 18' rear dinette Sunrader was included in the axle recall. Fact:- Passenger car tires have much softer sidewalls than C or D rated tires and will bulge out more at road level, sometimes enough for the sidewalls to rub. This can lead to blowouts. Not good. Fact:- It's not just the load on the rear tires that causes a problem. It's the 'foolies' that cantilever the load way out from the bearing. This is the major cause of rear bearing failure which will lead to rear axle failure. Haven't heard of any axles breaking in the last 20 years? Well, that's about when the recall was issued and many have been upgraded since and more all the time. I'd suggest reading the recall documentation before making your decision. To quote the immortal bard (Clint Eastwood): "Do you feel lucky, punk?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 The last 2 reports, here, of broken axles were 18 footers. PLAN ACCORDINGLY. WME FullyHuman: It's a 18' Sunrader? If yes, you're OK with the original axle. The 18 Sunrader is one of the great classic Toyota Motorhomes, I've never heard of one breaking an axle...certainly not within the last 20 years. Just keep it light. They'll run 200,000 miles or more. Don't let that "death trap" crap scare you. Get out there on the road and HAVE FUN with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 hey y'all - i am ongoingly glad for the input on here. even the conflicts teach me good things and i really appreciate every single post. here is the newest information: the good-condition tires on the rig are all 185R14C/100R, rated for 1874# apiece as singles, and labeled as being load range D. GVWR is 4650#, front axle 1850, rear axle 2900... (though those don't add to 4650, but whatever!) unfortunately no actual weights yet as i have not yet figured out where to weigh it in the heart of a major metropolitan area such as this, where the nearest truck stop is 40 miles down the road and i don't know where else those two part scales might be found. it seems like these tires may be good news in the sense that i have nicer tires than i might otherwise have...? but doesn't in and of itself solve the problem. it does, however, make me want to know if unbolting the outer duallys might be the first step in the right direction given that the bearings were done quite recently. can anyone weigh in on whether these rims can handle being used as singles? my uneducated guess is that they might be, if i stay within the rear axle weight limits, since the chassis was manufactured and intended to be driven with singles on those rims with that same axle weight rating, had it become a pickup instead. i am still looking towards any option i can manage to afford to do a full swap, which is clearly the safest bet, and may need to drive a distance to do so affordably if i can manage it, which would mean at least one distance trip without the axle update even if that was the very next step. thus i would like to know - if the choice for this very moment was to drive on the two "foolies" or to take one off on each side, which would be best? the tires as i said are pretty new and in good shape and would be consistently inflated to 65. thanks again! so excited to get out in the world in this lovely lady. lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullyhuman Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) also, can anyone weigh in on the "full floating kit" idea? if i've already got good tires and if the rims do turn out to be adequate as singles, could this modification turn the axle into a full floater and thus, other than minding the weight rating, might i have achieved toyota nirvana? & if so how much might that cost? : ) i found this: http://frontrangeoff...=87f97c6a1ab4c0 for $669 for the parts, but it seems to be for a 4x4, and was also sent this : http://www.ruffstuff.../FLANGETOY.html which is a much more appealing $195, but mentions it is "made to use the IFS Truck ('86-'95) calipers and FJ40 or FJ60 rotors" and I have a 1982...? Edited April 11, 2012 by fullyhuman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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