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Hey everyone, I have never had a issue like this before. And i have been driving clutch for the entirety of my driving career.

This morning when i jumped in the toy and started i let it idle for 15 before jumping in like usual. jumped in tried to put her in reverse and had to pull it into gear with some force. No grinding though. All other gears are the same way, no grinding but barely goes in gear.

With the rv off the trans feels like butter/

The clutch felt fine to me since ive own it. I figured it had 70k left on it?

Anyone have any suggestions?

The only thing ive done to it was change the spark plugs, wires and cap. It drove fine after that as well. im stumped.

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You have a hydraulic clutch. Check the fluid level and then bleed the system. If that doesn't help you may have to replace the slave cylinder (its cheaper) if that doesn't do it then you have to replace the master cylinder too. Both are fairly simple and straightforward just be careful.

A worn clutch usually slips under load so your not matching that symptom.

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Oh good. i didnt know it was hydraulic! This is such a stupid question, but where do i check the fluid and should the engine be idling

You have a hydraulic clutch. Check the fluid level and then bleed the system. If that doesn't help you may have to replace the slave cylinder (its cheaper) if that doesn't do it then you have to replace the master cylinder too. Both are fairly simple and straightforward just be careful.

A worn clutch usually slips under load so your not matching that symptom.

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Engine off, its under the hood right next to the brake master cylinder.

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Fluid level seems fine,

Whats step two? checking the lines for a leak?

Engine off, its under the hood right next to the brake master cylinder.

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oh btw, the master cylinder is brand new....

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a thought is that if the gears don't grind then the clutch is working. check the level of the fluid in the transmission. maybe drain and change? turned to sludge for some reason? leaked out somewhere you wouldn't notice it maybe? not sure how to go about that exactly, might be a job for a service center or even a trans shop. another thought is if the clutch wasn't working when it did go into gear it would lunge and kill the motor probably. let us all know what it turns out to be, at sometime it will probably prove helpful to someone here.

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How do i go about checking the trans fluid?

Yea no lunging so it hasnt the clutch gone bad... Didnt think about that haha

a thought is that if the gears don't grind then the clutch is working. check the level of the fluid in the transmission. maybe drain and change? turned to sludge for some reason? leaked out somewhere you wouldn't notice it maybe? not sure how to go about that exactly, might be a job for a service center or even a trans shop. another thought is if the clutch wasn't working when it did go into gear it would lunge and kill the motor probably. let us all know what it turns out to be, at sometime it will probably prove helpful to someone here.

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not really sure. in the olden days there was a plug on ;the side of the trans that you took out and could stick your finger in and if it was full your finger would come out black with oil. if there is a oil change place you usually use you could call them or your favorite repair shop. of course do the google thing, "check standard transmission fluid 19?? toyota pickup" you should come up with something. there is a drain plug and a fill plug. i think you will have to take it to a shop, you have to have the toy to pump the new oil up into the filler hole on the side of the transmission. i think it is supposed to be changed every so often.

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The early Toyota's did have clutch cover issues that made them hard to get into gear often with out warning but usually they ground going into reverse unless you shifted them in pretty fast. The forward gears won't grind but will be hard to engage. If the cylinder is new I'd try bleeding the system does the clutch feel good? Strong top to bottom?

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The early Toyota's did have clutch cover issues that made them hard to get into gear often with out warning but usually they ground going into reverse unless you shifted them in pretty fast. The forward gears won't grind but will be hard to engage. If the cylinder is new I'd try bleeding the system does the clutch feel good? Strong top to bottom?

I once had a pressure plate simply break, and it would not release all the way. Not worn out, just broken and no warning, just like that one day needing replacement. Hope that's not your situation, but it happens

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Bled the system and a spray of black sludge came out, followed by a few good air bubbles. Clutch felt like new yesterday. This morning its about to where it was when i got it (not bad at all, but still not as firm as yesterday) so im thinking it could use another purge? or should i just take it to a shop to have it flushed. a lot of my friends have advised against this. they think it will disturb any settlement that may make it worse?

The early Toyota's did have clutch cover issues that made them hard to get into gear often with out warning but usually they ground going into reverse unless you shifted them in pretty fast. The forward gears won't grind but will be hard to engage. If the cylinder is new I'd try bleeding the system does the clutch feel good? Strong top to bottom?

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Brakes, rotors, and master cylinder are brand new as of last summer, that and the new tires are what sold the sun land to me over that heritage tandem

Bleed it again. Nothing to lose and by doing it a time or two, you'll accomplish as much as getting it 'flushed'!

Since you've got all the 'supplies' out and organized, why not do the brakes as well?

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When you said new master cyl i was thinking might have air in it. you dont want sluge in it anyway ANY AIR AT ALL WILL CAUSE PROBLEMS in the clutch or brakes BLEADING IT OUT IS THE SAME AS FLUSHING IT OUT willdo the same.

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So this morning my clutch is back to feeling like worn out breaks. Little resistance in the clutch. No problems engaging gears, yet. I plan on flushing it when i get back from work but any ideas why im developing these problems?

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If it won't work correctly after a while, then I would say its time for a new clutch master and slave cylinder

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what year is that the 1978 and older have a adjustment on the slave cylinder those you should be able to just wigle the throw out fork. all the models have adjustment under the dash. you should just have a little slac in the pedal c heck with your handbefore it starts to push the master cyclinder in. under the dash you can losen the lock nut on the rod when you turn the rod clock wise or counter clockwise to shorten or lenghtn the pedal stroke if the pedal does not come back far enough the fluid can not go back in to the master cylinder also there should be a spring on the pedal. i dont know if you are experanced driving a clutch . using the clutch pedal for a foot reast will lead to rapid wear out of the clutch.

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Its an 84, i am pretty experienced driving clutch. I always do my best to stretch the life wherever possible. im guessing the master cylinder is leaking or allowing air in somehow because it was fine two days ago when i bled it/

what year is that the 1978 and older have a adjustment on the slave cylinder those you should be able to just wigle the throw out fork. all the models have adjustment under the dash. you should just have a little slac in the pedal c heck with your handbefore it starts to push the master cyclinder in. under the dash you can losen the lock nut on the rod when you turn the rod clock wise or counter clockwise to shorten or lenghtn the pedal stroke if the pedal does not come back far enough the fluid can not go back in to the master cylinder also there should be a spring on the pedal. i dont know if you are experanced driving a clutch . using the clutch pedal for a foot reast will lead to rapid wear out of the clutch.

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If you run out of fluid while bleeding it you'll get air back in the system. What you can do is turn the brake fluid can up side down in the clutch master cylinder it won't run over if it's under the fluid level at that rate you can bleed it and flush it at the same time. Another method is a long hose back into the master cylinder and pump it until there are no more bubbles then close the bleeder. Pretty sure an 84 does not have a slave cylinder adjustment it's self adjusting.

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Replaced the slave and flushed the system yesterday and everything is looking good!

There was tons of orange sludge, doesn't appear to have ever been changed.

Never thought of doing this! Thanks Maineah

Another method is a long hose back into the master cylinder and pump it until there are no more bubbles then close the bleeder. .

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so the orange sludge isnt supposed to be in there? :headbonk:

Just kidding

Well, I hope you didn't use Maineah's method to pump the orange sludge back into the M/C! :rolleyes:

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