guitarlover519 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 I am thinking wood paneling from Home Depot. Any ideas or suggestions? I have cedar floors, so maybe cedar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 I'll assume you like wood. Many have gone to painted walls and cabinets from the faux wood originally installed. I'll be doing the same. Too much wood can make things dark. I should know, I live in a log cabin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Isn't there already water damage up there. I would hesitate to add any more weight if your not going to get the damage fixed first. I'd go with paint. Beautiful finish and no weight. I like satin but if the exisiting paneling is damaged semi gloss will protect better LS I am thinking wood paneling from Home Depot. Any ideas or suggestions? I have cedar floors, so maybe cedar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I agree with Linda, paint is a good way to go. It doesn't weigh much, is easy to apply and will lighten up the interior of your Toyhome. I'm in the process of painting the entire interior of my '85 Dolphin. I'm only about 30 per cent done, but the results are really great so far. Try painting a single wall somewhere in the camper and see if you like it. Wood is heavy, requires a good fit to look good and then you have to trim the edges out somehow. Plus its dark. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Respectfully I disagree. I used tongue and groove cedar in mine with a brad nailer; its bright and smells great. I do agree about the needing jigsaws and attention to detail; but if you have the right tools (i did) its fun like a big jigsaw puzzle. Painting never looks good unless you use a wagner or paint buddy. Brush lines, drips and latex smell... no thanks I'll take the extra 30 lbs of cedar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 we used two coats of zinser kills primer and a good inside paint over the old panling in our 1978 what a differance it made .We left the cabnets dark for a nice contrast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarlover519 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 I actually like the dark themed wood. And quite jealous of the log cabin I'll assume you like wood. Many have gone to painted walls and cabinets from the faux wood originally installed. I'll be doing the same. Too much wood can make things dark. I should know, I live in a log cabin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarlover519 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Id like to cover the ugly rot rather than paint over top... unless I do some major sanding Isn't there already water damage up there. I would hesitate to add any more weight if your not going to get the damage fixed first. I'd go with paint. Beautiful finish and no weight. I like satin but if the exisiting paneling is damaged semi gloss will protect better LS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarlover519 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Id be willing to try half and half like you if i didnt have the rot! we used two coats of zinser kills primer and a good inside paint over the old panling in our 1978 what a differance it made .We left the cabnets dark for a nice contrast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarlover519 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Do you think i could do the front cab myself with very little carpentry skill? i would have access to all the right tools though Respectfully I disagree. I used tongue and groove cedar in mine with a brad nailer; its bright and smells great. I do agree about the needing jigsaws and attention to detail; but if you have the right tools (i did) its fun like a big jigsaw puzzle. Painting never looks good unless you use a wagner or paint buddy. Brush lines, drips and latex smell... no thanks I'll take the extra 30 lbs of cedar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Do you think i could do the front cab myself with very little carpentry skill? i would have access to all the right tools though Assuming you have the old paneling up still (makes it easier) and using short brads... sure. Make sure you have the following: 6 packages tongue groove cedar from depot or menards chop saw that can do angles one of those new oscillating cutters or a dremmel with wood blade. carpenters square air or electric brad nailer and several sizes of brads. Use short if afraid of whats behind; longer the better for bite and flex retention in winter (the cedar will expand in winter and contract in summer) *wood glue (i didn't use it for fear of noise and or tongue breaks but some swear by it) start by ripping out the carpet if you are doing flooring; get your flooring done first. work from the floor to the ceiling; get your first piece straight. I went horizontal; many go vertical or if you are a madman at a 45 degree. the first board should be shot through the center of the board on either side anchored well. subsequent boards are shot through the tongue at angle into the paneling behind. periodically put one straight through the middle of a board to give strength. When you get to the top your jigsaw, oscillating saw or dremmel will be your best friend. stagger different sized pieces and reuse scrap to save money. when done covering the edges are trimmed with L wood trim, corners with quarter round or concave trim pieces of unfinished pine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarlover519 Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Sounds time consuming but I think I can pull it off, the floors are done already in cedar as well... Gotta finish it soon before it gets water damage. Its my daily driver as well so ill have to do it day by day Assuming you have the old paneling up still (makes it easier) and using short brads... sure. Make sure you have the following: 6 packages tongue groove cedar from depot or menards chop saw that can do angles one of those new oscillating cutters or a dremmel with wood blade. carpenters square air or electric brad nailer and several sizes of brads. Use short if afraid of whats behind; longer the better for bite and flex retention in winter (the cedar will expand in winter and contract in summer) *wood glue (i didn't use it for fear of noise and or tongue breaks but some swear by it) start by ripping out the carpet if you are doing flooring; get your flooring done first. work from the floor to the ceiling; get your first piece straight. I went horizontal; many go vertical or if you are a madman at a 45 degree. the first board should be shot through the center of the board on either side anchored well. subsequent boards are shot through the tongue at angle into the paneling behind. periodically put one straight through the middle of a board to give strength. When you get to the top your jigsaw, oscillating saw or dremmel will be your best friend. stagger different sized pieces and reuse scrap to save money. when done covering the edges are trimmed with L wood trim, corners with quarter round or concave trim pieces of unfinished pine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 most time consuming projects yield the best results. Cedar should never be feared; its akin to balsa wood almost. Not sure I would have chosen it for flooring; soft wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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