Guest ben333 Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 (edited) Thank you. Edited May 21, 2011 by ben333 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 i would replace the tank a tank that bad is not safe to use at all i do not know if you have a stock truck tank or not i have a truck also a moter home toyota truck manual says stock tank is 19 gallons if you have a stock tank you could probly get one from a wrecking yard the long box 2wd or the 4wd would probly work the short box or large cab use little smaller tank other wise there maybe some after market tanks that will work hope this helps get rid of a tank that bad saftey hasard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 As far as I know, just about all Toyota motorhomes used the standard LWB gas tank (17.2 gallons). Spectra Premium is the name of a large OEM and Aftermarket tank manufacturer. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-TANK-84-85-86-87-TOYOTA-PICKUP-/270621341976?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0249f918 You might want to consider replacing the hoses and vents at the same time. They're probably getting a little crispy after all these years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 If you go to http://www.spectrapr...m.com/home.html they have an online eCatalog. Punch in the year of your Toyota and they'll give you a list of available tanks. See if you can figure out which one you've got. They don't sell direct, but they supply many retail outlets. As for measuring your tank to calculate the capacity, that'll be hard. The aren't nice cubes and they don't get filled right to the top. But if you try, there are 231 cubic inches to the gallon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elderthewelder Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 I replaced my tank in my 1 ton dually flatbed not to long ago with a Spectra tank the part number for it is TO8B (VIN # RN55, RN75); US Only; 2WD; From 04/86 ; w/ Fuel Inj. Check your VIN I bet it is JT5RN75XXXXXXXXXXXXXX I bought mine from rockauto.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Since you've got a Spectra tank installed, maybe you could answer a question. Would it be a pain to measure your tank to see if the dimensions they list include (or don't) the flange that connects the 2 halves? They show a length of 37" . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-85-86-87-88-TOYOTA-PICKUP-TRUCK-GAS-FUEL-TANK-TO8B-/380325840250?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588d2fc57a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Replace fuel filters when you change the tank. and flush the fuel lines. ALSO - If your Fuel Injected, I'd replace the pump and sock. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elderthewelder Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Since you've got a Spectra tank installed, maybe you could answer a question. Would it be a pain to measure your tank to see if the dimensions they list include (or don't) the flange that connects the 2 halves? They show a length of 37" . http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item588d2fc57a so you want to know if the 37" length dimension includes the flanges? I have pretty good acsess to my tank, also still have my stock tank. so i could get you measurments, just want to be sure what one I do know that the spectra T08B will bolt right into the stock location of the RN75 cab / chassis frame with no problems, now whether or not the motor home companies modified anything when they put the motor home on I do not know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Yes, I'd just like to find if their tank dimensions include the flanges or not. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 You'll have to decide if it's rusting through from the inside or outside. If from the inside, remember that there are probably other areas that are just as thin and the JB Weld will do nothing to stop them from running through. Better to be replacing a gas tank in the comfort of your own garage or driveway than on the side of the road in East Overshoe Montana. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 If these are "rust through" holes, i.e. rust actually ate its way through the tank, I wouldn't waste time with the JB Weld. It might hold, but I guarantee, the patch will fall off at the worst possible time. If its a puncture hole caused by a rock or something like this, I would try the JB Weld. Clean the area, scratch with sand paper, then put a nice glob of JB Weld. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Push the JB Weld in to the holes so it will form a rivet head on the inside and help the patch stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elderthewelder Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 (edited) Yes, I'd just like to find if their tank dimensions include the flanges or not. TIA the 37"dimension includes the flanges, the flanges are about 1.750" wide on each end of the tank, tank itself is roughly 33.5" those flanges also have the bolt holes in them that bolts the tank to the frame Edited May 9, 2011 by elderthewelder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Hello Ben, Regarding the JB Weld, make sure you get the JB Weld product made for gas tank repairs, they actually do sell a version just for tanks. Be sure you have everything ready to go when you activate the JB Weld, it dries fast, like in 30 to 60 seconds, and then needs a few hours to over night to fully dry. After the patch work is done, I would recommend coating the patch area (or the entire bottom of the gas tank) with an undercoating. Walmart, K-Marts, and most auto parts stores carry a spray can of undercoating, it will help seal the edges of the repair area plus give the bottom of a tank a light shield from rocks. Be sure to carry the remaining amount of the JB Weld in your RV, just in case you need it on the road, you can use it on your black/gray water tanks and from the product details on water lines if needed (5,000 psi). Dennis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Ben333; I had a problem of getting rust in the Kohler genny carb. float bowl after cleaning it out and then running it for 10 min. I put a filter in the line going to the genny, that stopped the bowl from stopping up. I figured that since all the rust that got into it that the gas tank would be really rusted bad. 1986 Sunland Express with 26K miles. It had done a lot of non-use parked. So, Today I took the lines loose and dropped the tank after draining the fuel out. Took the fuel pump out and looked inside the tank. Wasn't rusted hardly at all. Just sediment in the bottom. After using a scouring pad inside I poured the fuel out and it was dingy(cloudy). Also noticed that the baffle that was around the fuel pump on the bottom, had like spot welds on the bottom that looked rusted. I figured that was probably where all the particles was coming from to the genny float bowl. I then poured some back in the tank and washed it out and figured it would do and I wouldn't have any more problems. I was blowing the pump strainer out and it blew a hole in it (detoriated ? don't know) but I replaced it with a new one before putting it back together. In all it took about 4 hrs crawling in and out on my belly on the ground from under the MH . I plan on replacing the fuel filter that is mounted on the block on friday, weather permitting. Thank Goodness it wasn't what I had expected to find. Now, I was expecting the worst!!!!!!!. I asked around and there is a fuel tank sealer that you can use to coat the inside of the tank sealing the holes and rust. Lots of antique car buffs use this because there is no replacement tanks for them. The local parts place has it for $22 a quart and it would take 2 quarts for 17 gal tank. JC Whitney has it for around $60 a gallon. Thank Goodness, I didn't have to go that route. They could get me a new tank at $260 plus tax. (On-Line places have them for much, much cheaper price.) I think that you can ask questions and shop around and come up with a solution for your problem. Hope this helps you or someone else. 'homer' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Well, Ben: I read somewhere that someone took their passenger side wheel off and could get to the gas filter more easily if the filter was mounted to the engine. I did that plus working from the top side finally broke the banjo connections loose and then used a 3/8 universal joint and 5 ( short ones , didn't have a long one) extensions with ratchet and took the filter off. Then just reversed the procedures to mount it back. It took a while but I figured that I saved a bundle of money by doing it myself. Plus, look at all the good hands on experience . Will put gas in the tank on saturday and see how good I did. Wishing you well on your endeavors with your TOYHOME. 'homer' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Ben: I put 5gal. gas in and turned the switch on and waited 3-4 minutes and then turned the starter over 5-6 times and it started, WOW ! I did it. Then I walked around and checked all the places where I had worked on and found a small leak on the top of the tank. Immediately cut off the switch and checked out the leak. Evediently I never tightened the hose clamp enough the first time and had to retighten it a little and the leak stopped. I hope the job is now finished and i can go camping next week. How are you coming along with your projects? 'homer' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetboy Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 MY tank rusted up twice from the inside in 2 years, so last year I coated it with POR-15 and when I pulled it this year to do the fuel pump...It was perfect! I highly recommend it if you are having chronic rust issues, as these Toyotas all did. Easy to do, and not that expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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