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To fix a sluggish problem that I am having, I went ahead and started to adjust the valves.

Well there was NO clearance at all between the rocker arm and the valves.

So I got the engine nice n warm, and adjusted at .008 and .012 (intake & exhaust) and did in order at TDC & 1 rotation. Pretty easy.

Put it back together and two problems.

1) Oil leak out of valve cover

2) A "ticking" coming from the engine.

Oh Boy.

So anyway, I bought a new valve cover gasket that came with some rubber groumet washers.

Took it all apart again, re-measured, and they were correct. Slight resistance at .008 and .012.

Put it all back together and still the "tick" and still an oil leak???

I may be torquing this thing too tight or lose. I just got it where the rubber groumet washers were "squishy". LOL. Does anybody have the torque specs for the valve cover?

Also is the "ticking" normal after the adjustment? I've checked 10 times now and they are right. :ranting2:

Does it go away after time?

One other thing, what part are the two semi-circles for with the valve cover gasket set. Mine looks like:

http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-22RE-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Set-85-95-p/1024057.htm

Thanks!

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those half round rubb er things go on the head front and back ends of the cam the old ones get hard and are prone to leaking did you save the metal washers that go on top of those hold down washers if you did not change those cam plugs they will leak make shure they stay in place when you put the cover on

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The half moon plugs often stick to the valve cover and fall off the one at the back is hard to see reach your hand back there and see if you can feel it if not it will leak line a sieve. 22RE engines are not quiet so if your are sure you have them right don't worry about it.

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I set mine for .007 and .011, takes just a tiny bit of the noise out.

BTW on a 22R series engine the valve lash gets smaller as the miles add up. So checking them every couple of years is a good idea.

Hopefully you got to yours before you burned a valve. :Poster_oops:

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DOH :headbonk:

I found the half moon things. I just simply over looked them, Yes on the front & back of the head. That's what was causing a massive oil leak. When I took off the valve cover it pulled the back one loose. and it fell on top of the transmission. I didn't notice it. The front one "blended in" with the head itself, so I just stupidly over looked it.

I was like what??? LOL, all this oil is GUSHING out. Power washing the driveway. Sigh....

Anyway, the engine is NOT silent, I definitely hear the rocker arms on the valves. It's not insanely loud, but I can hear them while running with doors & windows shut in the truck. Almost sounds like a small diesel engine. (Is this too loud?) I checked them 5 times. The last time on a COLD engine I set them at .007 and .011 "hearing" that's how factory sets them. When it's hot its supposed to go to .008 and .011. If I do have them slightly "too spaced" do they kind of get tighter through time with less noise? When I first checked I could not even stick a .002 through the valve space on intake or exhaust.

Seems to be helping the engine "missing" problem that I have had. Feels more powerful on neighborhood streets, and I will give it a good test run on the highway later.

Just a quick question:

Do any of you ever use overdrive for anything except going downhill? Like on a straight flat segment of highway?

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I have always set my valves a little "fat" IE slightly more clearance, they click more, they burn less.

I guess I kind of like the clicking sound, when they quiet down I know they are getting tight.

Usually the engine loaps along a little better, less missing, after they get adjusted, I can set the idle down a bit and it "ticks over" using less gas at idle. With a looser valve lash the valves stay closed just a smootch longer, transfering heat into the head just a scosch more.

(those are technical terms)...

Official toyota repair book warm engine 22r

Intake 0.2 mm (0.008 inch)

Exhaust 0.3 mm (0.012 inch)

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