Live Tiny Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I we bought a 76 Chinook in January. We haven't driven it much yet, maybe 20 miles a week. For the last few days it was stalling every time it didn't move. Yesterday it stalled and died while moving. I tried jump starting it but there was nothing, the battery didn't turn over and there wasn't any sound from the starter, or any sound at all. I have the Chilton's guide for it but I'm super confused..about the two battery thing....the 20R engine I can't even find the engine oil dip stick.. maybe I drove it wrong? Maybe there is a kill switch I don't know about? I know this seems like a novice question, how do I get it started so I don't have to tow it? I can't seem to find the owner's manual pdf that I've seen mentioned on here. The Chilton's guide doesn't cover stuff like having two batteries! ): my Chinook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee & Joan Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 You really need a volt ohm meter to diagnois most electric problems, they are $15 & up at hardware stores. It sounds like your alternator may not be charging the battery back up after starting, but it could be other things. If you put the volt meter across the battery posts you should get 12.6 or more volts when the engine is not running and 13.8-14.7 volts when it is running. Even with a dead battery you should be able to get it to turn over if you are jumping it properly from a good battery. Often the jumper cables do not make a good connection at one or more of the 4 places they connect to. Jiggling the connections sometimes helps to get a good connection. Be sure to wear safety glasses when working around batterys, they spark (when jumped) and have explosive gasses when charging. The oil dipstick should be just behind the distributor (thing with 5 big wires going to the spark plugs) on the front right side of the engine if the 20R is the same as the 22R. There is no "kill switch" that I am aware of. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Live Tiny Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 Lee & Joan thanks for the quick reply and your advice! Sorry for the beginner questions, I have the Chilton's guide and I downloaded the owner's manual but still confused. Does the aux battery drain the regular battery? Previous to the truck dieing there was a red indicator light the dashboard that said 'CHG' when the truck was idling is this the indicator for the alternator? You really need a volt ohm meter to diagnois most electric problems, they are $15 & up at hardware stores. It sounds like your alternator may not be charging the battery back up after starting, but it could be other things. If you put the volt meter across the battery posts you should get 12.6 or more volts when the engine is not running and 13.8-14.7 volts when it is running. Even with a dead battery you should be able to get it to turn over if you are jumping it properly from a good battery. Often the jumper cables do not make a good connection at one or more of the 4 places they connect to. Jiggling the connections sometimes helps to get a good connection. Be sure to wear safety glasses when working around batterys, they spark (when jumped) and have explosive gasses when charging. The oil dipstick should be just behind the distributor (thing with 5 big wires going to the spark plugs) on the front right side of the engine if the 20R is the same as the 22R. There is no "kill switch" that I am aware of. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84TOYRV Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 The coach battery doesn't drain the truck battery. That is because of the isolater, I believe. Could it be that your idle speed is too low to chg up the battery? I don't understand the mechanix real well. Just trying to help. I was wondering, if you plug in coach, if it charges truck battety as well as coaches? Hopefully, soon you will get a knowledgeable answer from the pros here. Tudy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crasster Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 What I would do is try bypassing the isolator. Hook the alternator up directly to the battery wire at the alternator. Put it on a nice charge over night & try to get it started. You may have isolator problems. I just went through one of those ;o) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Toyota Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 5Toyota the 20 may have dip stick on left or right they made some ethr way if that charge light is on you a ll most shurly have charging problem i have owend 3 20 rtoyotas all the 76 77 78 use an eletric fuel pump the oil pressure sending switche is in line too tell the eletric fuel pump toorun when the oil pressure light is not on good oil presure the 20r is averry good moter they were used in trucks corona and celica cars 1976 to 1980 or soo 79 0r later used mechical fuel pump right on the left side of the moter opisote the dist ributor on the right side check the charging system and battery also the older ones like that have an external voltage regulator should be on the right fender under the hood small black box somes time you have too replace that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 The charge light should not be on if you need to get it home take the battery out and have it charged like Lee&Joan said poor connections trying to jump it. Due to it's age it's probably had a lot of fingers under the hood one thing you might check are the battery clamps them self if they have replacement clamps (two little bolts on top) they often get really nasty under the clamps that hold the cable down and then jumper cables won't help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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