Fibreglass Has A Crack

[centralman]

On the last trip I discovered that there is a crack on the fibreglass at the forward cab over area. Could somebody point me in the right direction what I can do to do a bit of DIY repair to get it fixed, thanks!

[centralman]

Any help will be much appreciated, thanks!

[85mirage]

Your pict is oversized and hard to view you might try resize image.Its not an easy fix because the crack is at a joint of 2 panels. You could remove corner molding and patch area with some polester resin and fiberglass cloth. Then reinstall molding. But those moldings are somewhat delicate due to the curve just try not to bend molding if you remove. Another option is remove as much of the old sealant around corner molding as you can. Clean area with acetone then apply 3M 5200 {available at Depot and boating supply,comes in caulking tube $10-15} to cracked area. 5200 is a marine product, waterproof,"thru the hull fittings" and will make watertight. Takes 5 days to cure. Good luck

[Dolphinite no longer here]

On the last trip I discovered that there is a crack on the fibreglass at the forward cab over area. Could somebody point me in the right direction what I can do to do a bit of DIY repair to get it fixed, thanks!

Another thing to consider is why the break occurred in the first place. Perhaps the interior framing wood is wet and swelled up, causing the crack to appear. Judging by all the exterior caulk showing on the seam, it looks like a troublesome leak has been there for a while.

The suggestion to use 5200 is okay, but remember, 5200 is a PERMANENT fix in that the stuff is very difficult to remove as is anything that its attached to.

Is it wet at all in the inside near that area? Try pulling up all the bedding in the cabover area and poke around with your hand looking and feeling for wet or soft wood. If you find any, some surgery is probably your only real hope.

Also, it looks like your siding is fiberglas, but the front, where the tear is, looks like metal. Is this true?

John

[Gulfstream Greg]

Another thing to consider is why the break occurred in the first place. Perhaps the interior framing wood is wet and swelled up, causing the crack to appear. Judging by all the exterior caulk showing on the seam, it looks like a troublesome leak has been there for a while.

John

I have to agree, you have something else going on there. Most likely a leak has caused some structural damage and things are starting to come apart. Sorry to be so blunt about it but fixing the problem is a better option that patching it over. It will continue to come apart. I would pull off the moulding along that edge and have a look see inside. Who knows maybe you will be lucky and everything is just loose. Removing the edge trim will allow you to replace the butyl tape for a proper seal no matter what you find. Its possible that if there is some damage that its not bad enough to worry about if you can get the screws to hold and get it sealed.

[centralman]

Your pict is oversized and hard to view you might try resize image.Its not an easy fix because the crack is at a joint of 2 panels. You could remove corner molding and patch area with some polester resin and fiberglass cloth. Then reinstall molding. But those moldings are somewhat delicate due to the curve just try not to bend molding if you remove. Another option is remove as much of the old sealant around corner molding as you can. Clean area with acetone then apply 3M 5200 {available at Depot and boating supply,comes in caulking tube $10-15} to cracked area. 5200 is a marine product, waterproof,"thru the hull fittings" and will make watertight. Takes 5 days to cure. Good luck

Thanks for your suggestion. I will update you with my progress.

[centralman]

Another thing to consider is why the break occurred in the first place. Perhaps the interior framing wood is wet and swelled up, causing the crack to appear. Judging by all the exterior caulk showing on the seam, it looks like a troublesome leak has been there for a while.

The suggestion to use 5200 is okay, but remember, 5200 is a PERMANENT fix in that the stuff is very difficult to remove as is anything that its attached to.

Is it wet at all in the inside near that area? Try pulling up all the bedding in the cabover area and poke around with your hand looking and feeling for wet or soft wood. If you find any, some surgery is probably your only real hope.

Also, it looks like your siding is fiberglas, but the front, where the tear is, looks like metal. Is this true?

John

Thanks for your post. Yes, I just checked today the front is metal and the siding is fiberglass. I followed your instructions and pulled up all the bedding and poke around to see if anything wet, It's all dry and solid.

[centralman]

I have to agree, you have something else going on there. Most likely a leak has caused some structural damage and things are starting to come apart. Sorry to be so blunt about it but fixing the problem is a better option that patching it over. It will continue to come apart. I would pull off the moulding along that edge and have a look see inside. Who knows maybe you will be lucky and everything is just loose. Removing the edge trim will allow you to replace the butyl tape for a proper seal no matter what you find. Its possible that if there is some damage that its not bad enough to worry about if you can get the screws to hold and get it sealed.

Thanks for your post, I am just contemplating my next move now as I am not good at DIY at all and I just worried that I open the Pandora's Box once I take things off.

[centralman]

Anyone from the Greater Vancouver area in Canada who knows where I can buy some of that 3M 5200 sealant? Looks like I couldn't find it anywhere.

Thanks.

[dogre]

Try West Marine. Located at 1601 2nd Ave. W., Vancouver. Their phone # is 604-730-4093.

[flatspin]

I hear you about opening up pandora's box, but I'd strongly recommend you hesitate on the 5200 before you sort out what's going on underneath the split in the metal. If you're not comfortable taking off the trim and getting inside to see what's going on, it would be well worth your while to find a good shop locally. It might cost a few bucks to get it right, but it'll be a lot less than a continuing leak through a pile of sealant you can't get off the skin. Without a good solid mechanical fit, even the toughest most flexible sealants will let water in.

[centralman]

Try West Marine. Located at 1601 2nd Ave. W., Vancouver. Their phone # is 604-730-4093.

Thanks for your suggestions I will call them up if I need the Sealant.

I hear you about opening up pandora's box, but I'd strongly recommend you hesitate on the 5200 before you sort out what's going on underneath the split in the metal. If you're not comfortable taking off the trim and getting inside to see what's going on, it would be well worth your while to find a good shop locally. It might cost a few bucks to get it right, but it'll be a lot less than a continuing leak through a pile of sealant you can't get off the skin. Without a good solid mechanical fit, even the toughest most flexible sealants will let water in.

Thanks for your reply I am gonna seriously think about it to be honest I am new to the RV scene (only started May last year). I had a good mechanic friend and he does mechanical work for me and gave me good price. He was the one who suggested that I get a Toyota RV for it's reliability. He does good mechanical work but he couldn't help me on the body side. As such since last year I have enjoyed over 12,000 miles of travel. Odd thing is I don't feel the slightest moisture in the cab over structure but I guess I will see how things go. I don't think I will apply the 5200 just yet.

I have no idea on this ... but how much do you think it will cost for such a job?

[85mirage]

3m 5200 IS NOT PERMANENT. They now sell a release for it. And if applied correctly WILL NOT LEAK. Guaranteed! I am all for fixing problem but if there aint, dont fix it. maybe something from the road hit cab and made crack.

[centralman]

3m 5200 IS NOT PERMANENT. They now sell a release for it. And if applied correctly WILL NOT LEAK. Guaranteed! I am all for fixing problem but if there aint, dont fix it. maybe something from the road hit cab and made crack.

Thanks again for your reply.

OK. Here's what I am gonna do, a little experiment. For the time being I will just put Clear RV Goop (I happened to have some bought a a WalMart before) to the crack and see what happens to it at the next trip.

If inside the cab is still dry I'll probably proceed with the 5200 fix. If not, I will get professional help.

In a way, I am far more lucky than some people. For that I am grateful. And I thank you guys for all your help.

[centralman]

Nov 2010 Update:

The RV Goop held up. Cab area is still dry, but new problem comes in.

There's water leak when heavy rain. First A/C unit drips water, then it moves up to one of the cross sectin of the ceiling, and then the front cab. Had a horrible time driving the RV in the middle of a trip back home (When the RV is moving the leak seems much less). I think my roof needs a complete re-seal for sure. Could I ask for some help here:

Does anyone living in the Greater Vancouver area in BC knows someone/some company who can do a good work and charges reasonably? Much appreciated for your help.