flatspin

On the cab-coach interface in the Sunrader there is fiberglass. There are a number of wood blocks where they screwed and stapled the carpet into place. I worked with a local automotive upholstery shop who did my seats and cushions too. The owner sold me a roll of highly flexible automotive carpet -- it has no backer, so it will wrap and stretch around just about anything and stay snug. I used contact adhesive (solvent based, because the water based stuff will not work). It is actually super easy to work with and gives a great result. I put some pictures and the way I went about it on my blog... http://sunrader.blogspot.com/2010/03/carpet-time.html

Hey all, I've poked around the forum but haven't seen any strong recommendations for a cover - brand, materials, etc. We're in northern california so I'm looking for rain and SUN protection. Just about half way done on a spring re-polish and wax, and I'd like to have it last this time. As part of the spring cleaning, I'm considering re-striping the Sunrader. Any good pointers or resources beyond the ones I'm finding on a google search? thanks all andrew

Somehow I'd missed your blog... what an awesome travelogue. Thanks for sharing (and inspiring me to go out and work on my 'rader on a rather cold December day) Best, andrew

A soft spot on the floor isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but I'd certainly want to understand why it has occurred. The structure of the original floor doesn't lend itself to repair per se, but it is entirely possible to re-skin the floor using plywood, so there are remedies. I wouldn't call it difficult from a skills standpoint, but just pulling up the carpet is a huge chore because it is attached with an obscene number of staples. You just want to know that there isn't a persistent water issue that will continue to rot the floor after you've made the repair. And yes, the walls and roof are made of two fiberglass shells which provide the exterior skin and the primary structure. The coach can't rot the way a stick frame would, but water leaks are still a pain. Goes with the territory. -andrew

I put a floating wood floor in my Sunrader, and while it has its imperfections to be sure, it is AOK after more than a year. I know MANY others have had success as well.

I had a Fantastic Vent already installed, so all I had to do was put on the MaxxAir cover to protect the vent underway and in the rain. The vent pulls a lot of air through. I haven't tried the MaxxAir complete solution with a fan, but I imagine one or two of those would be quite effective. Again, I think trying out the AC while it is already installed is a good idea.

1) The starter batteries will have a fairly short lifespan in that kind of role. They're designed for high-current at short bursts and will tend to degrade internally when repeatedly depleted. DEFINITELY ensure good ventilation no matter what. Parallel is aok, but potentially unnecessary for things like interior lights and the occasional fan. Add a TV, use the microwave via an Inverter, etc. and the extra capacity will come in handy. 2) Try it. I think using the coach AC underway with the genset would be more of a hassle than it is worth. We have good luck with a Maxxair and the coach AC, but we are up in NorCal where there are only a few weeks over 100 in the summer. 3) How does the coach ride now? If you're level and can handle a load, you may be OK. If not, the idea is to have enough spring to support the coach and then use the airbags to re-level when you're loaded up... Airbags can hold up a dragging coach, but the real solution is to either re-arch or replace the springs, etc. In the grand scheme of things (and from your list you've got a pretty grand scheme) it isn't super expensive. Add in replacing the airbags, and you'll be out a chunk o change, though. 4) Just installed new monroes. Life changing. Bilsteins are great too. Easy to find online with your year/1ton p/u. 10) Post a pic of those mirrors...

Replacing speakers in the cabs of these pickups is dead easy. Location and complexity can vary a little bit based on year. here's a quick look at the driver side on my '90 http://sunrader.blogspot.com/2010/01/carpet-carpet-carpet-and-more-carpet.html There are loads of downloadable instruction sets for replacing speakers or stereos available online. The great thing about the older Toyotas is they used really simple fasteners - most of the work can be done with a phillips screwdriver. Have fun. -andrew

DOA? http://www.doaracingengines.com/

As a Sunrader guy, I can't comment on the adhesive question, but I will say that you've got yourself what looks like a very cool little project. Have fun!

The 22RE is a terrific little engine, and it is a big part of why these rigs are still on the road after 25 years. I have the 3VZE in my Sunrader, and it is still underpowered. The 22RE, well cared for, will go forever and tick along just fine on the flats. Just get used to going uphill slowly in 2nd. It's all about the journey, right?

If memory serves, you can use both Group 24 and 25 batteries. Interstate, Duralast, Walmart batteries all seem to get consistently good mentions. Stick to a good brand, then go for the highest capacity that fits (I believe Group 25 is slightly larger/has more plates than Group 24) the truck. As mentioned, the deep cycle marine battery is critical for the coach, so it can handle being completely discharged repeatedly and maintain capacity. andrew

We just replaced our old awning on the side of the Sunrader with a new Carefree box awning. Bolts through the side of the camper work well (we reused existing holes) with appropriate support plates/washers inside. -andrew

probably more important than purchase price is getting a good sense of what might be required in terms of maintenance/repair to get the Sunrader to where you want it. cosmetics like painting on the interior are pretty easy. springs, shocks, brakes, window seals, appliance work, etc... all add up.

this looks like an interesting option http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/category/fiberglass-laminate/s0/510---FRP-Laminate-Panels.html -andrew

This comment stuck out at me... loss of power that occurs after the truck warms up could be as simple as overheating. thermostat? -andrew

bummer about the Dolphin... the pics of the Odyssey look pretty nice, i must say. there are a couple of Sunraders on sale in the SF Bay Area right now... one is 4x4. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/rvs/2330088930.html good luck on the search... -andrew

Option 3... wait for a better Sunrader to come on the market Seriously, if you're committed to one of the two and the Dolphin has a solid coach structure, it seems like a better choice to me. The fridge and tires are easy to deal with, and probably only $1,000 or so all-in if you have to repair or replace. That and half the mileage on the powertrain and chassis. -andrew

Removing and replacing the stove is probably a lot simpler than it seems. In my Sunrader, it is just a few wood screws along the perimeter and the gas line. Sure you'll have to remove/replace the silicone, but it means the repair will last a long time. -andrew

The guys at Crane's are awesome (not to mention pretty entertaining). Refer is back online and fully operational. 2.5 hours and yer done. Quick just like that. Thanks to all who recommended this option. -andrew

Has anyone considered using a water-methanol injector to increase performance going up hill? I was just talking to the mechanic that works on my F-150, and he runs a little muscle-car shop. We talked about engine swaps, getting a 'built' version of the 3.0, etc. His suggestions were: - change the rear-end gearing - change the fuel filter every 10,000 miles - tune up more often and... consider water-methanol injection? http://www.snowperformance.net/products.php?p_cat=302 Seems like the benefit is cooling the intake and cylinders and increasing the air-density of the charge. My mechanic was pretty bullish on it... seems pretty tempting... can be tuned to only operate at or near WOT, and he seems to think as much as 15-25hp increase was possible. Thoughts? Experience? Snake oil? -andrew

Gotta love Toyota engineering priorities. The chart showing HP/Torque output is awesome. Torque is almost pan flat across the power curve... big part of Toyota's success in delivering cheap, economical cars that are (fun-ish) to drive .

Totally agree with WME... I'd start with the battery. I get days of furnace and lighting and pump operation from ours. Insulating overhead vents, etc can help too. For me, I'd rather find a way to add another battery to the system than experiment with new ways to burn fuel in the living area. -andrew

I really like the idea of a pipe cot, as we regularly put 5 into the Sunrader and it is a Snugrader. Would be nice to have another sleeping level in the back. Just can't really figure out how to arrange a secure mounting system on the walls.

I'd be glad to help if I weren't 100 miles away. Might consider taking any rig you're serious about into a good shop (I'm a fan of RV Dr. George up in the Sacto area, as folks here know) for a look over.