Sandro L Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 hey how u doing fellow toyota enthusiast ive had a 4cyl toyota mh in my mind for the past 3 years im finally purchasing a 1990 toyota dolphin 22re auto or im considering. Carlot owner asked 2,490 he droped down to 1,500 and still hoping to drop him down to 1,200 going to check out motorhome again tommorrow he owns a used car lot and is not original owner of motorhome and really doesn't know to much about it. Mechanically it is absolutely wonderful claimed original 30k miles and i can believe it with the condition of engine trans and overall vehicle part of it. Now the problem is the coach i turned on the engine but i couldn't get anything to work inside im not to sure about how that works the water doesn't work the appliances appear to be in good condition cosmetically im going for a better look and better inspection tommorrow. The main issue i see for now is the extensive wood rot floor breaking gonna have to replace and reseal the whole coach thats why im going to shoot for 1,000 dollars. I need to know how exactly i go about redoing the interior, the roof also seems to be drooping slightly inside, on the outside the only apparent opening is in the rear bottom corner of the coach seems minor on the outside but the inside has rotten wood almost eveywhere. definitely going to be completely redone wood interior insolation wood and fiberglass sealing is a must. i believe its fiber glass not positive. if u guys have any links or videos or comments or anything that can help a novice with the restoration of the interior would be greatly appreciated i dont know if i seal from inside or outside or what is done first or what i know the inside its necessary to completely gut it. i welcome any comments or suggestions as well. thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85mirage Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Look around maybe you can find one in better shape. Sounds like a lot of work. If it was only floor well thats one thing but you mentioned sagging roof also. Hows the interior siding? Take an ice pick/awl/or screwdriver and poke around the rv. Especially around the seams, roof line and bed over cab. If you want a litttle insite as to what rebuilding one entails read the below thread "burnt shasta" Im slowly rebuilding shasta. Roof,walls,floor,cabinets lot of work good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatspin Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Look around maybe you can find one in better shape. Sounds like a lot of work. If it was only floor well thats one thing but you mentioned sagging roof also. Hows the interior siding? Take an ice pick/awl/or screwdriver and poke around the rv. Especially around the seams, roof line and bed over cab. If you want a litttle insite as to what rebuilding one entails read the below thread "burnt shasta" Im slowly rebuilding shasta. Roof,walls,floor,cabinets lot of work good luck! Couldn't agree more. Lots of work and expense to just get back to a stable structure, then lots more to do from the standpoint of cosmetics and internal function. Restoration budget can go quickly in that scenario! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Here's another that agrees. If you don't consider yourself a very competent handyman, I'd pass. If it's a 1990, it should have a 3.0 V6. Of course, if you can get it for $1000 you could always convert it to be a low mileage 1-Ton flatbed. If that's of any use to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 the guy says everything works i just have to connect it to shore power im going to test that out later today. so lets say everything works the only problem is the floor. also i have a electrician friend and someone that does body work but on cars. im not to worried about the wiring i have diagrams of wiring and a experienced tech. my only concern is the wood. i have family with different experience, this is going to be like a family project. anyways the floor is definet the roof seems to be drooping slightly.... and the walls seem okay i open a few cabinets and see a few rotten spots. but for 1000$ and everything with the vechicle it self perfect and lets say appliances do work and ac unit. wouldn't u say its worth it? i see people paying up to 10,000$ for one of these motorhomes in good condition lets say my budget is 5000$. that leaves me with 4,000$. what do u think. as i said any and all comments are welcomed and appreciated thanks. and i did check out burnt shasta WOW.... im gettin alot of good information from that thread post as well thanks this website is awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 we do plan on building the interior our selves. i have a mechanic plumer electrician body worker interior worker handy man. all either family or close members of family that will work for free or for very cheap. we our liscensed dealers and own a carlot here in miami florida we have purchased 2 previous motorhomes and done some work on them but not as extensive as i expect this one to require. this is my first personal motorhome however. and i was suprised to see that it was 4cyl but i checked it my self its the 22re confirmed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatspin Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 we do plan on building the interior our selves. i have a mechanic plumer electrician body worker interior worker handy man. all either family or close members of family that will work for free or for very cheap. we our liscensed dealers and own a carlot here in miami florida we have purchased 2 previous motorhomes and done some work on them but not as extensive as i expect this one to require. this is my first personal motorhome however. and i was suprised to see that it was 4cyl but i checked it my self its the 22re confirmed The restoration project is a fun (albeit massive) effort. In my Sunrader, everything "worked" but I then discovered a slow leak due to a cracked water heater. Those things just happen, and they're a handful of 100s every time even if you do the work on your own. I'd bet you could find a watertight and structurally sound toy mh in your budget. I spent about a year searching for what I wanted and learned a lot in the process. -andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85mirage Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 All right, another member! $1g is a fair price. Floor shouldn't be to bad. Low miles too. XTra 4 gs will come handy. If you dont need to remove cabinets and etc to replace the floor it'll go quicker. Just find the depth of your floor by slowly cutting little section out and set your saw to floor depth. If you dont mind a little sag just build roof up if needed and then lay your roof membrane. Go for it. Post photos when you get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 okay i will. i got a real nice 9 megapixel digi that im going to be getting the battery charger for soon. im doing alot of reading and maybe you guys could help point me in the right direction. i see this project as a good thing im going to try to build it better than original. key area i need help in is LIGHTEST WEIGHT CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL. i dont mind spending alittle extra money on material seeing that were going to do all the work our selves. i'm considering a light weight aluminum frame and luan ply wood seems to be a good choice. im trying to go as light weight as possible spending a little extra cash is not a issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 If you can manage to get a used cars salesman to drop the price from 2500 to 1000, then something seems fishy lol. If money isn't an issue, I'd go buy something a little nicer. Rebuild a camper only if it's something you enjoy doing, not to save money. Then again, if you just clean up the inside you'll prob get a few more years out of it before it just completely falls apart from the rot. Otherwise, this could be a huge endeavor... fun stuff tho regardless. I'd probably keep that ice pic out of sight tho should you go about poking around. Good advice tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 the used car dealer happens to be an old associate of my fathers from 10 years ago. not to suprised since were in the same buisness. also he showed the papers he actually spent 1,600 he purchased it at an auction up north florida. we ended the deal at 1,400. we connected the power to a regular 110vac outlet and the power works. fridge seems to be broken and the ac turns on and sounds like its working and working good but theres no air flow neither hot or cold. oven and stove in good condition. car ac blows cold real cold. i wanted to get it for 1k but i still feel good. i plan on reconstructing the walls floor and ceiling with the lightest possible quality material, since were doing the work our selves money is not an issue in that department as i said earlier we have complete professional team in every aspect of work required for this. and im doing alot of research on everything. if anyone has any ideas on lightest weight yet strong reconstruction material, please feel free to suggest. thank you and i very much appreciate it. i will be uploading pictures every step of the way. this website is gold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Well if you have the talent, and a serious budget, check out nida-core. www.nida-core.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 is there a thread with anyone applying this nida core material. anyone have any experience with this? im reading and its quite interesting but i dont even know where to begin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted August 7, 2010 Share Posted August 7, 2010 http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/2006/09/super-camper-inspiration-concept-and.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 Hey been long time since i updated things happened got in the way of my project. anyways i got the 1986 dolphin 22re 36k original miles 1 previous owner for 1,400$, whoever owned it let it sit had a broken fridge vent water got in also spotted a cracked pipe in plumbing adding to the water damage. fridge is a dometic rm2400 doesn't work going to buy a new 2 way fridge outside door missing aswell adding to the water rot. a/c unit i believe can be repaired it starts but doesn't blow its a duo-therm briskair. no gen empty compartment. shower head was removed and the area was covered thats where the broken pipeline leads to. that is the extent of the damage. it has everything else intact good condition and in working order the engine and transmision works beautifully. i got it weighed before stripping anything out all tanks empty half tank of gas noone inside front axle - 1580lbs rear axle - 3400 total - 4980 that gives me decent amount of room im figuring loaded max 6k-6.5k lbs. im also missing the awning which is good for me less weight im going to do most of the work my self and with friends. for the wood im considering balsa i want to go as light weight as possible i found a place local in miami i need to compare cost. what do you think of balsa? everything else can come from home depot or lowes they have nice lookin paneling the converter/charger i need to upgrade from the 6300 to 7300ru 55amp. i want to slowly add to my rv electrically so i need to start with good strong battery care the 6300 only charges at a puny 3amps and being a 25 amp system while the 55 system utilizes all available amps up to 55 also has 3 mode including float charge to properly maintain a battery. its an upgrade to the existing unit saving money and making it easier to replace the battery i plan on getting around 200-300ahs agm with either 1 200ah or 2 150ah that will add around 200 lbs. i want to get a modified sinewave 2000watt inverter to run just the a/c unit and a seperate 500-1000 watt pure sine wave for delicate devices such as computer tv ect. while driving the alternator should produce enough to keep the a/c unit going or the batteries will drain slowly if anything. some day i want to add solar panels. thats why i want to slowly prepare it for off the grid power has anyone had any experience with a hard start capacitor for the a/c unit? that way i can run it off a smaller 2000watt generator or inverter. the repainting of the fiberglass outside i plan on cleaning real good with acetone till i get down to the fiberglass and i believe a simple polymer based paint works best? question about the old isolator. does the isolator handle the charge from the alternator to the coach battery properly? a alternator can produce anywhere between 80-120amps that constantly would cook a battery. might be a newb question thanks anyways. i would also like to have a 10stage reverse osmosis water filtration. removes flouride, theres a real interesting read on flouride in our drinking water. how much can i tow with lets say weighing 6000lbs if i can tow anything at all. perhaps a geo metro weighing 1600lbs? i was also looking for future upgrades at a 2lt 2.4l 4 cylinder turbo diesel engine swap. its a perfect bolt in swap any l-series diesel from a toyota truck for any 22re toyota truck theres a guy that already did it just do a simple search on yahoo. my family and i own a car lot/mechanic shop here in miami. i would get the truck in canada they sold it everywhere sept usa. if possible get it back to miami and do the swap at our mechanic shop we got a lift n everything. then resell in canada the gas converted truck to make this a minimal expense. to me this seems like the cheapest way to get a diesel toyota around the importing process, if i swap it can just go to a dmv tell them its diesel and they give me new title and its officially legal someone has already went through this process diesel produces higher torque better for heavy rv's engine last longer with proper care can go 500k miles easy. i also want to use a bio diesel blend if not pure eventually. bio diesel combined with solar power it will be a icon for mobile efficient sustainable renewable energy living. a rear air bag needs replacing. i saw 1 on ebay for cheap. we got a lift at the lot so the work shouldnt be so bad. estimate-ive looked at alot prices mostly from ebay and amazon fridge-350$ rear airbag-100$ battery-300$ psw inverter1kw-200$ converter upgrade-100$ hard start capacitor-30$ generator2kw-300$ wood, panels, paint, materials ect.-300$ misc-100$ total estimate-1780$ this is just the main repairs and things i want before i start really using it then everything else will be added slowly. thank you any comments suggestions are wanted and greatly appreciated. i'll try to post the pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 Could get complicated getting a diesel Toyota into the US unless it's 25 years old from the date of manufacture. I know you plan to return it to Canada with a gas engine installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 [#107145] The image upload failed ive been tryin to upload pictures for along time now. there jpegs round 3mb. anyone willin to receive the pics through email and post em here for me. i go to gallery new image upload file photo and submit and it fails every time. the 2lt and earlier diesels were sold in north america for a few short years 1985 being the last year, but there rare there common in canada and cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 This forum won't allow large JPGs, if you have a way to shring them dowm. John MC 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 www.dieseltoyz.com Info on conversions. They are $$$$$. The 2L is way under powered in a pickup, in a MH it would be a rolling chicane. The 1KZ or 1KD engines are much preferred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85mirage Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 Try resizing them in your pc picture viewer just right-click and resize small or medium. hope it helps would like to see em ive been tryin to upload pictures for along time now. there jpegs round 3mb. anyone willin to receive the pics through email and post em here for me. i go to gallery new image upload file photo and submit and it fails every time. the 2lt and earlier diesels were sold in north america for a few short years 1985 being the last year, but there rare there common in canada and cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 WME is right they had no power even in a small pickup but boy did they get some great fuel economy you could drive around all weekend for $2 (at 85 prices)! 2.5 - 3 liter turbo diesel will get the job done hope you got deep pockets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 22re doesnt get much more horse power and the 2lt gets better torque if not the same. with the turbo it should be fine. there both 2.4l, and im determined to have diesel without spending much, having the option of running bio diesel is a must for someone like me. plus for pulling heavy loads diesel works better and last longer i see it as the best option really combined with getting better gas mileage when i thought it was already at its best is amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 I'm not sure where you're getting your information from, but I don't consider the Toyota diesel to be common in Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85mirage Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Any luck wih resizing picts?. Right click on image. dont know the price of balsa but cedar is lighter than pine you might want to look into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 22RE 112hp and 142 lb ft torque. 2LT 96 HP and 139 lb ft torque, max torque is at a lower RPM with the diesel. Remember torque determines how quick you accelerate, HP determines how fast you can go. 2LT in an 18 ft Sunrader in Florida OK, otherwise I'll stick to my comments. If you go to the 2LT you will have to become paranoid about weight and forget about towing ANYTHING bigger than a bicycle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 its missin the bumper but i look at that as less weight i will put a spare on the back atleast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 for some reason i have trouble uploadin all the pictures i will keep trying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 22RE 112hp and 142 lb ft torque. 2LT 96 HP and 139 lb ft torque. not to big of a difference and the reason why i say the 2lt it would seem to be easier to get in canada maybe not common but alot easier and affortable. any l-series diesel truck engine would be a perfect swap for any 22re toyota truck. if i can get my hands on a 5L 3.0 4cyl diesel i would and add a turbo from a 2lt, that would be ideal for me or even the 3L. but anyways i can sacrafice speed and performance for better gas mileage and the 2lt does give the best gas mileage and the ability to use bio diesel from veg oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Not much shows up on Kijiji in Ontario and Quebec. This appeared yesterday:- http://qc.kijiji.ca/c-autos-et-vehicules-pieces-auto-pneus-moteur-pieces-de-moteur-Moteur-Toyota-diesel-3B-avec-transmision-et-transfercase-4X4-W0QQAdIdZ276099563 Did a search on www.car-part.com and there's only 1 diesel shows up in the whole country. 250k+ miles, in Alberta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro L Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 wow that sounds like it might be harder up there. in cali they got the diesel engines for sell. i wanted to get in canada to have the whole truck do a swap and resell but i guess if i can get the engine here cheap i could just hunt down the other parts. either way this is something for much later, the 22re has alot of life left Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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