Sandro L

linda that's excellent thank you. the 5k btu unit supposedly only uses around 800watts max so I think its perfect. seriously considering doing this. thanks again

that's a good a idea. I might consider that if I can find it cheap. or ill just create a manual switch over to either run off inverter or shore power

im thinking of getting a 5000btu 27lbs window air conditioner and install it in a way where it does not protrude off the trailer while still exhausting outdoor. most of the unit will be inside any input?

I agree with maineah. to run 130hp engine just to give power to the inverter for the a/c is counter productive. I look at the alternator as an addition to the system but definitely not something to be relied upon. using everything to a minimal and timing use in between devices specially with the a/c unit will be my solution to the high amperage pull off the batteries. im thinking of getting a 5000btu 27lbs window air conditioner and install it in a way where it does not protrude off the trailer while still exhausting outdoor. most of the unit will be inside

I plan on getting a coleman low profile 10,200btu air conditioner or maybe one that's more efficient. I might beef up the generator slightly to 1500watt one to help the load off the batteries the 100amp converter/charger should take care of the batteries. Or I get around a 2000watt at least generator dedicated to the a/c unit. can I connect to the converter/charger also while connected directly to the a/c unit? or will that cut the a/c unit off?? and I know the batteries are heavy... I definitely don't plan on towing or even having a back storage or any additional possible extra weight storage, not having a awning helps a lot. I know people in these forums doing well over 6000lbs. I don't plan on passing that. when I got my truck weighed it was at 4900lbs with everything in it before I stripped out the interior where there's a will there's a way I just need you guys to show me the light and thanks a lot you don't know but this information is golden to me in these forums. thank again people its a blessing to be able to communicate like this

hi I was wondering if its possible to have a 400amp hour 12v battery bank 9 solar panels each 100 watts 12v 75amp solar 3 stage charge controller APG3004 2-Cycle Gas Generator 1000-Watt surge/800-Watt continuous shore power rv converter/charger 100amp 120vac to 12v 3 or 4 stage inverter 12vdc-120vac 3000watt continuous modified sine wave and its like 5k-6k surge watts - for the roof air conditioner unit that's about 13,500btu inverter 12vdc-120vac 2000watt continuous true pure sine wave - for everything else laptop led tv the fridge sound system 600watt microwave rated at max850watt, and other electrical efficient items also a portable panda p30 260watt micro mini washer/dryer I want to have a switch to be able to run the air conditioner either off the inverter or shore power due to it pulling so much amperage off the 12vdc battery system. and is a modified sine wave fine for just the air conditioner? the ac might be replaced with a 10,200 low profile one by coleman that I saw to lighten the electrical load. is it possible to combine all this technology safely? what are the main concerns besides proper cables and sizes? do I need isolators in between everything? I know 12vdc deteriorates over long cable distance unlike 120vac so I have to manage all my 12vdc wiring to be as short as possible.

I was told by someone Dealing with older 2l or even 2lt you might as well forget about power.I'm sure you will find a 2wd eventually,but swap in the 4wd just for the extra cool factor.If you do find just a motor I have a 2wd diesel trans and bellhousing from my project that I'd sell.Funny how stuff works you want a 2wd,I wanted 4wd but settled for a 2wd and converted it to 4wd.This is my crawler 2l dual case 4.70 low range and landcruiser elocker axles & suspension The problem with the 4x4 is it will rob power compared to a fully rwd tranny for my motorhome which is already a lil underpowered with the 22re rwd auto 4spd I'm not looking to stay with the 2l in the old truck itll be replaced with the 2lte or 3l which ever becomes easier and more cost effective to do If i could know for sure that the 2lt will perform at least as good as a 22re then I would even stay with that and just address the cracking head issue with the 3l head fix and add an intercooler and mayb just keep the boost at 8psi instead of reported max amount being 12-14 psi I wish I had the truck already. But you sparked hope that later on I'll find people such as yourself trying to get there hands on 4x4 in these forums. After all everyone here is interested in 4x4 only. So thanks for that also somebody told me Buy a 2wd truck and save yourself a lot of issues. removing the 4x4 drive system is probably more difficult than going the other way. Sounds like you need a couple of donor trucks to make what you want. your right but the problem is I after a couple years looking ive only ever seen them 4x4/awd manual between 84-86 here in the states for cheap. on craigslist maybe ill get the 3l with the manual 2wd tranny. I saw it go for 2500-3000 on ebay already here in the states. my belief is having a donor diesel truck of the same model as my motorhome will make this project a lot easier plus on the up side the work can be done patiently and calmly while im using up the long life the 22re motor has another concern I was thinking now is my motorhome is a Toyota truck dually 1 ton rear axle. is it also built on the extended cab chassis? does it matter?

okay so the easiest truck for me to get for cheap and so I can do this project is a 84-86 4x4 manual 5spd manual either a 2l or 2lt. I see them a lot in bad condition as far as cosmetics. and for cheap 1000-3500. I plan on working on this truck over years prepping it for 2wd and 3lt. that's the final mission my truck I want to swap is a 86 2wd auto 4spd 22re. I was wondering how difficult it would be to remove the 4x4 and prep the truck to make it 2wd and I would love to keep the 5spd manual. im wondering if its worth getting the 3l and putting a turbo on it or just getting the 2lte. which would be more feasible for the application I want? the Toyota motorhome with the 22re engine runs perfectly fine and is not a power house but can move around fine and does top 65-75. SO LETS NOT ARGUE ABOUT POWER AND TORQUE. if I can get the diesel to be as strong as the 22re then im perfectly fine. thanks for the input any critics is encouraged im not a mechanic my step pops is and I lack the knowledge Im just tryin to figure out the problems hell face and have the questions answered for him once we begin this project

ok so my new idea is get a 1984-86 in usa for cheap Toyota diesel manual 4x4. and work on that truck by it self alone for along time and basically prep it for my motorhome when the time comes years down the road. as I said my folks own a whole car lot plenty of space to park a lil truck in the back .My step pops has access to Mitchell on demand btw. and supposedly that's one of the most expensive mechanic programs that has everything in detail for every component. my only concern now is finding a 2wd transfer case for the diesel truck or maybe replace the whole transmission with a 2wd manual 5speed tranny with diesel bell housing. eventually swap out the 2l or 2lt engine with a 3l 2.8 litre diesel and eventually get the 2lte turbo kit for it and add a intercooler. any input?

*READ THIS 1ST* Toyota diesel conversions FAQ *updated 1/22/13* 05-11-2004, 01:55 PM Ok, I get so many emails concerning this subject that I thought it appropriate to take the time to right up a little FAQ on toyota diesels and converting USA/Canada trucks. Q: Which years were they originally available in the USA/Canada? A: The toyota trucks were available in 2wd for in 1981-1986. The engines themselves changed but they all share a similar design (IDI inline 4cylinder). You could get the 4wd models in 1985-86 in a turbo diesel form (2L-T). Although some of these 4wd versions I have seen with a 2L non turbo. Q: What are the engines that were available with these trucks? A: There were 3 truck diesel engines available here in the states. 1L-the first diesel engine available here in the US. A slow but rugged engine. It only was available NA 2L- A larger displacement 2.2L overhead cam inline 4 cylinder. A little better power than the 1L but no powerhouse. 2L-T- A turbo charged version of the 2L which in later models featured a roller rocker valve train and lower compression to compensate for the extra heat created by forced induction. The final version available from Toyota sold here in the USA and Canada. Q: Are parts hard to find for these engines? A: Not too bad. Some stuff can be found at NAPA and dealerships. It really depends what you are looking for. Some parts are no longer available so finding them requires a creative thinker. Since Toyota built these things in a modular fashion, most parts can be had from your local dealership. It helps to find the part number in the Toyota EPC here: http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...load_links.htm Q: I want to convert my USA/Canada truck to diesel. What engine/combo is the easiest to convert and cheapest? A: All three engines share the same bolt pattern. So you can really use any of them. Q: What is the ideal truck to convert? A: 4x4 trucks/4runners from 1985-1995 with the 22re gas engine and w56 transmission should bolt right up. The electrical will be a little more involved but nothing too difficult. Q: Which transmission should I use for my conversion? A: The w56 transmission is what you will need for any L series toyota diesel conversion. This is a 5-speed overdrive 4x4 transmission with a removable bellhousing. You will need to purchase a diesel bellhousing and swap out the gas bellhousing for the diesel one in order to mate the engine trans up sucessfully. The reason for this is that on the 22re the starter is on the passenger's side of the car. On the diesel, the starter is on the driver's side of the car. If you were to try and get around this, the turbo would basically be touching the starter and it wouldn't fit. The W56 was standard on 4x4 trucks and 4 runners from 1985-1995. Q: Which engine would you recommend from your experiences? A: The 1L and the 2L are not really worth the time. They are painfully slow and in a 4x4 setting, they are greatly underpowered. Pretty good for a little 2wd truck though. To convert a 2wd truck just buy the 2wd diesel trans complete with bellhousing and install. There are 3 more engine available only in Europe that are highly recommended for anyone doing a diesel conversion. They are: 2L-TE- Same block as the 2L and 2L-T but has an electronically controlled timing advance module in the injection pump which gives is much better response time under load. It controls mroe finely the fuel delivery and has a larger advance curve giving it a slight Hp increase of 10hp from the 2LT. The bad news with this engine is that; due to a casting flaw from Toyota, they are highly prone to cracking between the exhaust valves requiring a replacement head. Toyota issued a TSB (technical service bulletin) regarding the casting issue and ultimately redesigned the head with a new casting to alleviate the problem with cracking. The new cylinder casting is identical to the cylinder heads used on the 3L engines and can be purchased through Toyota USA for approx $600 usd. This coupled with the fact that they are not exactly powerhouses make them a suitable but not ideal candidate for conversion. Additionally, wiring is comparable to a 1kzte conversion. 3L- A 2.8 liter sharing the same block as the 2L and 2L-T/2L-TE. A manually controlled injection pump so they are not too complicated to wire up. Since they are not turbocharged, they are not as powerful as the 2LTE's but for a small 2WD truck, they're great. Q:How difficult are these things to wire up? A: Depends on which engine you're dealing with. For the 1L. 2L. 2LT's, and 3L's there is really one wire to hook up for the fuel cut solenoid. This basically allows fuel to reach the inector lines. Wiring up the temp sending unit etc requires a bit of reading but nothing too difficult. Q:What all needs to be swapped out with my gas truck if I were to buy a half cut? A:You will need to take out the following: engine trans fuel tank dash wiring harness driveshafts I'm sure theres more but if these dont deter you then go ahead. Q: I cant get my a/c system to cycle on and off like it should. It was working fine before the conversion. What's the problem? A: All toyota trucks and 4 runners from 1990-1995 use what's called an a/c amplifier. This basically is a logic circuit that takes 3 different signals and then decides if your system is ready to operate. 1 signal is the tachometer signal. Even if the truck is not equipped with a factory tachometer, it still gets this signal from the factory. This tells the a/c amp that the engine is running. Then it needs an idle up signal which it basically sends a +12v to increase the engine RPM. To use this feature, you can use an idle up solenoid from an 85-88 celica or truck with te 22re engine. it's got 2 wires, 1 12v and other is ground. When energised is pulls and not, it retracts.Last is the switch in the dash. This is the sending unit which sends the power to the a/c amp which tells it to turn on. If you have all of these signals, your a/c will function flawlessly. This info took me 2 months of reading schematics to learn. Q: there's not much info regarding Toyota diesels on the internet. Where is a good place to start reading? A: Right here as well as http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/ which is an Australian Toyota board. Very helpful bunch over there! If you have any other questions that are not convered in this FAQ feel free to PM me through this board. I will help in any way I can. Todd ok so my new idea is get a 1984-85 in usa for cheap Toyota diesel manual 4x4. and work on that truck by it self alone for along time and basically prep it for my motorhome when the time comes years down the road. as I said my folks own a whole car lot plenty of space to park a lil truck in the back .My step pops has access to Mitchell on demand btw. and supposedly that's one of the most expensive mechanic programs that has everything in detail for every component. my only concern now is finding a 2wd transfer case for the diesel truck or maybe replace the whole transmission with a 2wd manual 5speed tranny with diesel bell housing. eventually swap out the 2l or 2lt engine with a 3l 2.8 litre diesel and eventually get the 2lte turbo kit for it and add a intercooler. any input?

DanS HJ-45 replied to a thread you are watching '91 Pickup diesel conversion The L family of diesel engines are about 150 pounds heavier than the R family of gas engines. Your axle should be fine. If you ask me, if you put a 2LT-E into a motor home you will be pushing the engine MUCH harder than it really should be, and you will suffer cracked heads regularly. If I were dead set on an L series engine, I'd suggest you get a 3L (2.8L). You can easily install a 3L (same amount of work as installing a 2L, BTW) and make it look "like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel" as you say. You can also put the turbo from a 2LT-E setup onto the 3L, if you really need the turbo--and it will all look very stock. Still have concerns about cracking heads, but much less than with a 2LT-E. You understand that these engines run toasty, and crack heads. Thats good. But realize that more power and more boost isn't exactly going to help that. I'm thinking to maybe put the other truck back together also to re-sell as a gas truck. Not a bad idea, although it may get you more money if you were to part them out. But anyways so to begin I'm kind of lost in a few areas here, will the 4x4 diesel bell housing bolt on the auto transmission that i have now then I just need the 2wd auto 2lt computer or what?? The bell housing mates the engine to the transmission. That's it. That's all that matters. You need the bell housing that fits between whatever engine you buy and the transmission you want to run. Engines and transmissions are built in "families." The 2LII/2LII-T/2LT-E and 3L are all the same family, so the forward end of the bell housing will bolt up to all of them. There is a G family of transmissions (G52, G58, etc...) a W family of transmissions (W56, etc...) and an R family of transmissions. I just listed some of the manual transmission families. The automatic flavors are similar. Some of these are 2WD, some of these are 4WD. Some of them are as simple as replacing the T-case with a 2WD output housing, and others that may not be possible no matter what you do. I don't own anything 2WD (and never will) so I have never done this myself. The auto transmission will rob some power. They simply aren't as efficient as passing the power from the engine through using gears that mesh with one another. It's a cool idea, no doubt. If it was me though, I'd branch out from the L series of Toyota diesels. 1KZ-TE (which still has some head cracking issues, but not as many), or even newer Toyota diesels. If you can weld and fabricate (or have access to people who can) you can make them look very stock. Dan

hey great info bro I appreciate it. okay so how about I get the old pick up, I mostly see them 1984-86 4x4 manual diesel on craigslist. I've seen a few with bad body work but engine and transmission supposedly good go for anywhere from 1000-4000$. And Then perhaps get the 2.8litre 3l non turbo ordered from JDM Imports and put the turbo from a 2lte with a intercooler off of ebay. Would that be a direct bolt in swap per say with my motorhome? As long as I have the correct bell housing of course. I'm determined to have my motorhome turbo diesel ive seen a few already I've seen a 1983 sunrader with a petty 2l. If I can do 75mph on the highway with my 22re im sure the 3lt with intercooler should be able to at least match it if not surpass it right? And please correct me if im wrong will the 3l swap out with a 2l and bolt right up to the transmission as well? The bio-diesel thing is not going to be strictly enforced I just want to have it to where it will be able to use it if I had a good clean source of it. To have as an option. I just like diesel trucks over all. Plus the maybe slightly better torque and gas mileage is cool too. Once again thanks for any input

Ok hello fellow automotive enthusiast. I'm a newbie to this posting stuff so thanks in advance. I have read EXTENSIVELY for months in different forums and I don't find the specific answers, so here I go. I have a 1986 rwd 22re automatic true 6 bolt one ton full floating rear axle pickup motorhome, weighs about 5000lbs. The front axle is actually the original old 5 bolt pattern and I'm not sure if that front axle is different from the 6 bolt one and if it even matters or makes a difference for it being a motorhome and a diesel engine swap maybe going to make it to heavy for it?? that's another question I have. But it does have the good rear axle that got upgraded just that year and up for these motorhomes. Anyways I want to swap to the 2lt and maybe even the 2lte. The most common option I see and like is buying a 1984-1986 pickup 4x4 5 speed manual sometimes 2lt or just the 2l here in united states in bad to ehh condition. I like this option because I want everything to look like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel. If i get the 2l I'm thinking of buying the turbo kit on ebay maybe with an intercooler upgrading to the 3l head due to the over heating issued cracking 2lt heads and raising turbo to 12psi. I'm thinking to maybe put the other truck back together also to re-sell as a gas truck. But anyways so to begin I'm kind of lost in a few areas here, will the 4x4 diesel bell housing bolt on the auto transmission that i have now then I just need the 2wd auto 2lt computer or what?? Can i remove the 4x4 option from the tranny if i decide to swap the 2l engine with the manual tranny that it comes with if so how?? Will I need to get a different computer one originally for the 2wd auto diesel?? For the motorhome i definitely want to keep it rwd that's not an option to change, less overall weight better economy for me. I can deal with the 5 speed manual, i kind of like the idea of it, but I'm also very happy with auto trans so which ever scenario is cheaper, works better or both. I've seen the kits to rebuild these engines and trannys on eBay for decent prices. I have a family owned auto sale business equipped with a nice strong at least 20ft hydraulic lift. plus engine lifts compressors and plenty of tools. and my step father is a decent diagnostic pull out put in mechanic but never worked on diesel engines before. What do you guys recommend? Any input would be GREATLY appreciated I've been planning this for over 2 years now saving a decent amount of money and spending a lot doing a restoration to my rv that I bought for 1,200$ I want it to be an icon for economical innovative off the grid living design utilizing solar panels to power home electrical living and the option of using bio-diesel. I personally deal with web management and I'm a project consultant at a Miami online based product development firm. This Toyota motorhome truck is my dream project. Thanks again

Ok hello fellow Toyota motorhome enthusiast. I'm a newbie to this posting stuff so thanks in advance. I have read EXTENSIVELY for months in different forums and I don't find the specific answers, so here I go. I have a 1986 rwd 22re automatic true 6 bolt one ton full floating rear axle pickup motorhome, weighs about 5000lbs. The front axle is actually the original old 5 bolt pattern and I'm not sure if that front axle is different from the 6 bolt one and if it even matters or makes a difference for it being a motorhome and a diesel engine swap maybe going to make it to heavy for it?? that's another question I have. But it does have the good rear axle that got upgraded just that year and up for these motorhomes. Anyways I want to swap to the 2lt and maybe even the 2lte. The most common option I see and like is buying a 1984-1986 pickup 4x4 5 speed manual sometimes 2lt or just the 2l here in united states in bad to ehh condition. I like this option because I want everything to look like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel. If i get the 2l I'm thinking of buying the turbo kit on ebay maybe with an intercooler upgrading to the 3l head due to the over heating issued cracking 2lt heads and raising turbo to 12psi. I'm thinking to maybe put the other truck back together also to re-sell as a gas truck. But anyways so to begin I'm kind of lost in a few areas here, will the 4x4 diesel bell housing bolt on the auto transmission that i have now then I just need the 2wd auto 2lt computer or what?? Can i remove the 4x4 option from the tranny if i decide to swap the 2l engine with the manual tranny that it comes with if so how?? Will I need to get a different computer one originally for the 2wd auto diesel?? For the motorhome i definitely want to keep it rwd that's not an option to change, less overall weight better economy for me. I can deal with the 5 speed manual, i kind of like the idea of it, but I'm also very happy with auto trans so which ever scenario is cheaper, works better or both. I've seen the kits to rebuild these engines and trannys on eBay for decent prices. I have a family owned auto sale business equipped with a nice strong at least 20ft hydraulic lift. plus engine lifts compressors and plenty of tools. and my step father is a decent diagnostic pull out put in mechanic but never worked on diesel engines before. What do you guys recommend? Any input would be GREATLY appreciated I've been planning this for over 2 years now saving a decent amount of money and spending a lot doing a restoration to my rv that I bought for 1,200$ I want it to be an icon for economical innovative off the grid living design utilizing solar panels to power home electrical living and the option of using bio-diesel. I personally deal with web management and I'm a project consultant at a Miami online based product development firm. This Toyota motorhome truck is my dream project. Thanks again