92 Dolphin Tranny Fluid and Leviling

[gene j]

I brought my 92 Dolphin in for a muffler job and the place also specialized in tranny work. I though this would be a good time to get the tran fluid and filter changed (don't know when or if it ever had been done before). It runs fine just thought this would be an opportune time to get it done. I did some research on the site here and ran across several comments about leaving the fluid alone if it doesn't smell burnt. It was even mentioned that I could be walking in a few weeks if I changed it. The rig has 96k miles and I bought it about a month ago. Have been doing quite a bit of work on it and have relied on the info I've gathered on this site. Just wondering about the tranny fluid comment.

[Maineah]

The clutch plates build up deposits on them over time and and to some extent it protects the clutch material but if you change the fluid with high mileage the detergents in the the new fluid removes it and clutch material it's self and it will soon quit moving. Also all the gook ends up in the pan and can start jamming valves the only filter is a fine screen. It's OK if it's changed at around 30K every time but not with high mileage.

[Bob W.]

The clutch plates build up deposits on them over time and and to some extent it protects the clutch material but if you change the fluid with high mileage the detergents in the the new fluid removes it and clutch material it's self and it will soon quit moving. Also all the gook ends up in the pan and can start jamming valves the only filter is a fine screen. It's OK if it's changed at around 30K every time but not with high mileage.

I bought my 91 Dolphin this past March with 71000 miles and like Gene j I had the fluid changed without removing the pan to clean the filter screen. I do not know when the transmission was last serviced although it seem to preform very good and looks clean with no odor. Is it worth pulling the pan to clean the screen and install new fluid?

[gene j]

The clutch plates build up deposits on them over time and and to some extent it protects the clutch material but if you change the fluid with high mileage the detergents in the the new fluid removes it and clutch material it's self and it will soon quit moving. Also all the gook ends up in the pan and can start jamming valves the only filter is a fine screen. It's OK if it's changed at around 30K every time but not with high mileage.

Thanks Maineah, that makes sense. I'll guess I'll just wait until it needs rebuilt.

[Maineah]

I bought my 91 Dolphin this past March with 71000 miles and like Gene j I had the fluid changed without removing the pan to clean the filter screen. I do not know when the transmission was last serviced although it seem to preform very good and looks clean with no odor. Is it worth pulling the pan to clean the screen and install new fluid?

I’m a firm believer in “if it’s not broke don’t fix it” if it’s clean, smells good and works OK leave it alone. If transmissions are serviced regularly that’s a good thing but if they have made it 70+K and they are working fine it’s best to leave them alone. At this point in the fact that the fluid has been changed it would not hurt to pull the pan save the fluid and pour it back in, clean the screen and call it good. You'll probably find interesting things in the pan don't panic it's normal to find small bits of brass and metal and some brown looking stuff. If it looks like brown metal flake paint it would be time to start saving some money! From your discription I think your fine, good for another 71K.

[Derek up North]

With a 'history unknown' situation, I'd settle for draining and filtering the old fluid, remove and replace/clean the screen and then return the 'used' fluid.

[Tom W]

I've also heard of bad things happening on a trans that had not been serviced for a long time when flushed. On mine I just drain whats in the pan about 2 1/2 QTs fairly often kind of like a refresh, some really large diesels they never change the oil when acid levels get to a certain point they dump some & add more also they run it through a centrifuge.

[Maineah]

If it is high mileage and the fluid is dark I would not even recommend changing the oil in the pan.

[Bob W.]

I'm a firm believer in "if it's not broke don't fix it" if it's clean, smells good and works OK leave it alone. If transmissions are serviced regularly that's a good thing but if they have made it 70+K and they are working fine it's best to leave them alone. At this point in the fact that the fluid has been changed it would not hurt to pull the pan save the fluid and pour it back in, clean the screen and call it good. You'll probably find interesting things in the pan don't panic it's normal to find small bits of brass and metal and some brown looking stuff. If it looks like brown metal flake paint it would be time to start saving some money! From your discription I think your fine, good for another 71K.

Thanks for your input on this, sorry I didn't get back here sooner but I've been away. I think I'll leave things alone for now and see how things go this summer as we will be leaving for around a 3000 mile trip soon and should test out the toyota.

Bob

[gene j]

I brought my 92 Dolphin in for a muffler job and the place also specialized in tranny work. I though this would be a good time to get the tran fluid and filter changed (don't know when or if it ever had been done before). It runs fine just thought this would be an opportune time to get it done. I did some research on the site here and ran across several comments about leaving the fluid alone if it doesn't smell burnt. It was even mentioned that I could be walking in a few weeks if I changed it. The rig has 96k miles and I bought it about a month ago. Have been doing quite a bit of work on it and have relied on the info I've gathered on this site. Just wondering about the tranny fluid comment.

Just a follow up....I'm going to leave the tranny alone...also, found a shop that put on a new muffler and new tailpipe (had to be formed) for only $140....I thought that was cool...this shop is called Master Transmission and it's on N. Rancho Road in Las Vegas NV..... if anyone is in this area and needs some service I would give them a try:

Master Transmission & Automotive Centers

- www.mastermta.com

3344 North Rancho Drive, Las Vegas - (702) 876-3200

I dealt with Bill Gross who seemed to be in charge. He had a good sense of humor. It's good to know of a place that can easily get these rigs in and lifted when the need arises. Went on a short test trip (first one) to Pahrump NV, or "over the hump to Pahrump" as they say here in Vegas, and stayed at Terrible Herbst RV Park....it was nice but I have to say I was the smallest rig there. An ant among goliaths....but mine is paid for...need to do some research on some jacks that will keep the rocking down. The toyota ran fine though.

[Gulfstream Greg]

need to do some research on some jacks that will keep the rocking down. The toyota ran fine though.

I noticed after installing rear air bags mine does not rock near as much when parked. In fact it seems steady as a rock. It used to be that just going through the door rocked it back and forth.

[gene j]

I noticed after installing rear air bags mine does not rock near as much when parked. In fact it seems steady as a rock. It used to be that just going through the door rocked it back and forth.

Greg,

I do have airbags and used them for leveling on our trip. I had no air in one and 60lbs in the other. Wondering if I should pump them to max (it says 90 lbs) and see what happens. Of course I need to make sure the fridge is level...

[Maineah]

Just a follow up....I'm going to leave the tranny alone...also, found a shop that put on a new muffler and new tailpipe (had to be formed) for only $140....I thought that was cool...this shop is called Master Transmission and it's on N. Rancho Road in Las Vegas NV..... if anyone is in this area and needs some service I would give them a try:

Master Transmission & Automotive Centers

- www.mastermta.com

3344 North Rancho Drive, Las Vegas - (702) 876-3200

I dealt with Bill Gross who seemed to be in charge. He had a good sense of humor. It's good to know of a place that can easily get these rigs in and lifted when the need arises. Went on a short test trip (first one) to Pahrump NV, or "over the hump to Pahrump" as they say here in Vegas, and stayed at Terrible Herbst RV Park....it was nice but I have to say I was the smallest rig there. An ant among goliaths....but mine is paid for...need to do some research on some jacks that will keep the rocking down. The toyota ran fine though.

I went to the junk yard and the guy gave me all the scissors jacks I could carry so I take two with me and two pieces of 4X4 blocks and jack up the MH just enough to put a little lift on the frame about midway and that takes most of the rock and roll out of it.

[ILIA]

Or you can pick up a pair of twelve volt electronic jacks from Harbor Freight. 40 bucks for 2. Mount them underneath upside down, connect electricals, create a secret location for the remotes, and add wooden blocks if necessary. The previous owner did just this to my rig and it has been a blessing to not have to deal with manually cranking jacks. They added the wooden blocks after beefing up the leaf springs. One day I'll have to post some pics of how he mounted this up. Looks and performs solid.

[gene j]

Or you can pick up a pair of twelve volt electronic jacks from Harbor Freight. 40 bucks for 2. Mount them underneath upside down, connect electricals, create a secret location for the remotes, and add wooden blocks if necessary. The previous owner did just this to my rig and it has been a blessing to not have to deal with manually cranking jacks. They added the wooden blocks after beefing up the leaf springs. One day I'll have to post some pics of how he mounted this up. Looks and performs solid.

I can only find the above at $59 per....

[gene j]

I went to the junk yard and the guy gave me all the scissors jacks I could carry so I take two with me and two pieces of 4X4 blocks and jack up the MH just enough to put a little lift on the frame about midway and that takes most of the rock and roll out of it.

That's what I was thinking...a couple of scissors jacks....checking out the electronic 12 v scissors jacks from harbor freight but they are $59 per, not 2 for $40

[ILIA]

That looks like them. Sorry folks, maybe he got one oooo of a deal, or maybe I'm wrong. Either way that was three or four years ago, but they do look identical to the photo. Still worth every penny in my opinion to have the luxury of not cranking by hand. Plus they're permanently mounted which saves on storage space. Good luck. Would post some pics, but I'm in NYC indefinitely.

[Gulfstream Greg]

Greg,

I do have airbags and used them for leveling on our trip. I had no air in one and 60lbs in the other. Wondering if I should pump them to max (it says 90 lbs) and see what happens. Of course I need to make sure the fridge is level...

I think I think you need at least 30 to 40 #s in them to stop the rocking. And I feel using air bags to level does not work that well at least for me. As an example. after installing mine it raised the rear of my rig several inches. So much that the top of the rigs roof now hits my pole and tarp carport when I try to back in from the road. So I thought just let the air out and it will lower giving me that needed clearance. I was at 80 pounds and dropped to 10 pounds. It did not drop down. The suspension held its height. Might be a different story for someone else but for me it proved that if I had chosen to plumb them separately for leveling I would have wasted my time. More to the story: When I bought the bags I also bought the air pump with dash gauge. I bought the single gauge one that fills both bags at the same time because the cost was considerably higher for the dual one. Before I installed I started to regret my decision, thinking that I could have used the dual setup to help level when parked etc. I raised my tarp and pole carport a few more inches and now I am happy.

For levelling I use the Lego style levelers. I bought two packs and they work well. Sometimes the fronts want to scoot but eventually I get on them. They are considerably lighter than jacks.

[Derek up North]

Too bad the fridge manufacturers couldn't just design a gimbal mounted fridge.

[gene j]

Too bad the fridge manufacturers couldn't just design a gimbal mounted fridge.

Isn't that the truth....with all the thought put into designing these rigs I would think that someone would have a system where the fridge could be adjusted to level independent of the rig...maybe there are some reasons why this isn't possible but if so, they are beyond my knowledge.

[gene j]

I think I think you need at least 30 to 40 #s in them to stop the rocking. And I feel using air bags to level does not work that well at least for me. As an example. after installing mine it raised the rear of my rig several inches. So much that the top of the rigs roof now hits my pole and tarp carport when I try to back in from the road. So I thought just let the air out and it will lower giving me that needed clearance. I was at 80 pounds and dropped to 10 pounds. It did not drop down. The suspension held its height. Might be a different story for someone else but for me it proved that if I had chosen to plumb them separately for leveling I would have wasted my time. More to the story: When I bought the bags I also bought the air pump with dash gauge. I bought the single gauge one that fills both bags at the same time because the cost was considerably higher for the dual one. Before I installed I started to regret my decision, thinking that I could have used the dual setup to help level when parked etc. I raised my tarp and pole carport a few more inches and now I am happy.

For levelling I use the Lego style levelers. I bought two packs and they work well. Sometimes the fronts want to scoot but eventually I get on them. They are considerably lighter than jacks.

My airbags work pretty well independently...I've watched each side go up and down. I have a small 12v compressor and the gauge indicates how much air is in them...work pretty well. Do you have a picture of Lego style levelers?

Gene

[Gulfstream Greg]

My airbags work pretty well independently...I've watched each side go up and down. I have a small 12v compressor and the gauge indicates how much air is in them...work pretty well. Do you have a picture of Lego style levelers?

Gene

Here is a link to the set I bought (bought 2) http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/rv-leveling-blocks-8-pack/43849

But check out this link because I have had the same problem

http://www.rv-boondocking-the-good-life.com/rvlevelingblocks.html

[Maineah]

Interesting. Mine are drive on ramps and they double as drive on ramps when I change oil. Some times it takes a little adjustment like putting one further away from a wheel but I have been able to level it every time.

[flatspin]

I think I think you need at least 30 to 40 #s in them to stop the rocking. And I feel using air bags to level does not work that well at least for me. As an example. after installing mine it raised the rear of my rig several inches. So much that the top of the rigs roof now hits my pole and tarp carport when I try to back in from the road. So I thought just let the air out and it will lower giving me that needed clearance. I was at 80 pounds and dropped to 10 pounds. It did not drop down. The suspension held its height. Might be a different story for someone else but for me it proved that if I had chosen to plumb them separately for leveling I would have wasted my time. More to the story: When I bought the bags I also bought the air pump with dash gauge. I bought the single gauge one that fills both bags at the same time because the cost was considerably higher for the dual one. Before I installed I started to regret my decision, thinking that I could have used the dual setup to help level when parked etc. I raised my tarp and pole carport a few more inches and now I am happy.

For levelling I use the Lego style levelers. I bought two packs and they work well. Sometimes the fronts want to scoot but eventually I get on them. They are considerably lighter than jacks.

I went for it and did the dual switch/gauge set (the original gauges on my Sunrader had a leak in them). While I can get a reasonable amount of corner-to-corner adjustment out of them, I've always wound up pulling out the lego-blocks in the end. Leveling and managing loads on the road seems to be the more valuable capability...the bags help both front to back and side-to-side leveling of the rig while underway.