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Sorry if this an absurd question, or if it’s been asked before. What exactly does it mean “get the Full-Float“? Will any dually full float axle work? I feel like I’ve looked at every forum post and can’t come up with a clear answer. 

I’m pretty sure my rig is a 2wd 1980 18’ Sunrader. 
I know I have the bad axle, but not what will work to replace it. 

Any help getting pointed in the right direction is appreciated. 



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OK basic stuff, a normal rear axle has a single bearing on each side and the middle of the tire is centered over the bearing, so the load is on the bearing. When the RV mfg need more weight carry capacity, they added another tire. That fixed the weight problem, but with the add on tire the weight was carried about 5" outboard of the bearing. Every rotation that 5" of leverage flexed the axle and over time many failed and the wheel came off making a mess of things.

The full float axle is a different design. It has 2 bearings per side and offset wheels so that the load is centered between the bearings and the bearings carry all the weight, the axle sees no flex, it just provides power to make things go. Even in the very rare event  of an axle failure the wheels stay on.

All full float axles are the same design. But what matters is the width of the axle, the center to center width of the spring perches and the shock mounts. That eliminates  almost every thing but a Toyota 1 ton axle. 

Some folks with "skills" have put a GM 14 bolt axle on their toyhouse and ran 15" singles  

Edited by WME
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Just some observations on my part. Based in your ID plate your rear axle is a standard 7.5” r&p (F292) used on 1/2 ton pickups not the 8” 3/4 ton axle (GO82) normally installed on Toyota cab & chassis’s used for motorhomes.

This could be a blessing in disguise if you cannot locate a Toyota ff rear axle.

Replacement axle shafts are still available from many aftermarket sites and maybe even the dealerships. This could buy you some time to find an upgrade by basically returning your axle to like new. Additionally, you wouldn’t have to change the entire axle, just the shafts. This would remove 40 years worth of fatigue and make a much safer ride.

You will also need new bearings and seals. Some aftermarket sites sell the shafts with the new bearings pressed on and the seal installed. This makes it a 4 bolt ‘plug&play’.

Check with places like rock auto or even a box store for pricing. The 1/2 ton has two different length shafts. Left side and right side. Double check everything before starting a tear down.

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