Taking my 86 Escaper in for an overhaul. Here is the list of things I'm thinking of getting taken care of. Advice?

[JustJosh]

Hi Everyone,

 

I finally found a mechanic that is willing to take a look at my new-to-me 86 Escaper (four cylinder, manual). Below is the list of things I want to take care of before going on a cross country journey (next summer maybe).  Anything critical that I'm missing? All suggestions are welcome.

 

I'm going to purchase the leaf springs, tires, and air bag kit ahead of time, so hopefully my items are correct. I know I need bushing for the leaf springs, does it matter which kind? I'm just going with Energy Suspension (https://www.desertrat.com/series-202626-energy-suspension-leaf-spring-bushing-set.html#!year%3D1986||make%3DTOYOTA||model%3DPICKUP||sq%3Dbushing). The Desert Rat website is suggesting u-bolts as well, so I'm assuming I should get those too? 

 

Anyway, things I’m having done (oil change already done):

1.       Leaf Springs- Old Man EMU (OME) CS010R leaf springs. 

2.       Air bags- AIR LIFT 57113

3.       Shocks

4.       Front and Rear Brakes

5.       Tires 185R14 102/100R D

6.       Spark Plugs/Wires

7.        Belt and Hose check.

8.       Fuel and air filters

 

Things I’m giving the mechanic a heads up about, anything else? 

 

1.       Toyotamotorhome.org

2.       Rear axle nuts are left-hand thread

 

Thank you everyone!

Edited October 6, 2020 by JustJosh

[linda s]

I watch anyone take off my rear drivers side wheel. No matter how many times you tell them they ignore it and lots of studs have been broken. The only remaining must have in my opinion is a valve adjustment. Makes the most difference in  for power ,gas miles and general running fantastic. I do mine every 2 years without fail.

Linda S

[JustJosh]

17 minutes ago, linda s said:

I watch anyone take off my rear drivers side wheel. No matter how many times you tell them they ignore it and lots of studs have been broken. The only remaining must have in my opinion is a valve adjustment. Makes the most difference in  for power ,gas miles and general running fantastic. I do mine every 2 years without fail.

Linda S

 

Thank you Linda. You're amazing. 

 

[WME]

Red finger nail polish on driver side nuts, red magic marker on finder skirt "LEFT HAND THREADS". You cant make things completely idiot proof, the best you can hope for is idiot resistant. If they still manage to break off a couple of studs, just have then ALL replaced with right hand studs.

Lets see

#1 Get poly bushings from the same place that you get the springs. There big and small eyes on the different brand springssprings

#2the OME spring has an extra leaf as a 2nd stage, It may be stiff enough so you don't need airbags, maybe try springs only at first.

#3 Bilstiens very best, a little stiff. KYB very good. Monroe fergettaboutit

#4 YES

#5 Yes

#6 Premium after market OK no cheapies

#7 Yes new belts and hoses. NOTE there is a small hose behind the alternator that NEVER gets changed, CHANGE it. It has ruined more engines than I care to think about.

#8 22RE fuel filter is "life time" ya right. Its above the starter and is a PIA to change

[JustJosh]

 

Hi WME,

 

Unfortunately, I'm the complete idiot here. I've never been involved with a mechanical project like this before. I've remodeled a house down to the studs, but I think I've only ever changed my own oil twice in my 47 years.

 

Anyway, a few questions...

 

• "Red finger nail polish on driver side nuts, red magic marker on finder skirt "LEFT HAND THREADS"- My understanding is that both of the rear nuts are left-handed, but this makes it sound like there is a driver passenger side distinction. Am I over-reading your comment, or am I misreading previous threads? 
• "Bilstiens very best, a little stiff. KYB very good. Monroe fergettaboutit"- I'm probably getting these: https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyota-pickup/86-95-toyota-pick-up-4wd-bilstein-5100-3-4-front-3-4-rear-lift-shocks/
• "there is a small hose behind the alternator that NEVER gets changed, CHANGE it. It has ruined more engines than I care to think about."- THANK YOU!

 

I really appreciate how helpful everyone is being. This is a situation where the mechanic asked me to get the parts because he hasn't worked on one of these in 20 years (he actually has worked on one). I'm completly fish out of water here and scared that I'll mess it up.

[WME]

Only the drivers side has left handed threads, thus all the confusion.

Those Bilstein shocks you picked are for LIFTED trucks. These are 4" longer than normal shocks. Is your Toyhouse stock ride height or have you lifted it?

Correct P/Ns for stock ride height are front 24-184830 and rear 24-002585

[linda s]

Those are the wrong shocks. Even with the EMU springs it still doesn't translate to a 4 inch lift. The regular size for our campers is

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/14571/name/Bilstein-B6-4600-Heavy-Duty-Shock-Absorber-Toyota-Pickup-Front-24-184830

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/14293/name/Bilstein-B6-4600-Heavy-Duty-Shock-Absorber-Dodge-D50-Ram-50-Isuzu-Amigo-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Pickup-Rear-24-002585

Only the drivers side rear wheel is left hand

[JustJosh]

34 minutes ago, linda s said:

Those are the wrong shocks. Even with the EMU springs it still doesn't translate to a 4 inch lift. The regular size for our campers is

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/14571/name/Bilstein-B6-4600-Heavy-Duty-Shock-Absorber-Toyota-Pickup-Front-24-184830

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/14293/name/Bilstein-B6-4600-Heavy-Duty-Shock-Absorber-Dodge-D50-Ram-50-Isuzu-Amigo-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Pickup-Rear-24-002585

Only the drivers side rear wheel is left hand

 

34 minutes ago, WME said:

Only the drivers side has left handed threads, thus all the confusion.

Those Bilstein shocks you picked are for LIFTED trucks. These are 4" longer than normal shocks. Is your Toyhouse stock ride height or have you lifted it?

Correct P/Ns for stock ride height are front 24-184830 and rear 24-002585

Oops. Thanks you. 

[JustJosh]

34 minutes ago, linda s said:

Those are the wrong shocks. Even with the EMU springs it still doesn't translate to a 4 inch lift. The regular size for our campers is

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/14571/name/Bilstein-B6-4600-Heavy-Duty-Shock-Absorber-Toyota-Pickup-Front-24-184830

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/14293/name/Bilstein-B6-4600-Heavy-Duty-Shock-Absorber-Dodge-D50-Ram-50-Isuzu-Amigo-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Pickup-Rear-24-002585

Only the drivers side rear wheel is left hand

Double oops. Thanks!

[WME]

Add a thought.. When you have the rear brakes done, give a serious thought to replacing the rear axle seals. Seals are cheap and the mechanic almost has things taken apart to that point. The rear bearings are grease packed and not lubed by the rear axle oil. Save a bunch of labor $$

4 seals and 4 bearings in the rear axle.

New wheel cylinders might be a good idea too.

 

[Scott iv]

Change the oil to the rear differential. Renew power steering fluid and brake fluid (hopefully fluid will be done with brake job).  Rotor and cap. Inspect battery terminals and ground wire. Inspect exhaust system. Drive the vehicle a bunch locally and listen to your machine closely prior to the trip. Look for fluid leaks regularly for a few months so you can get after them. 

 

I agree with Linda and the valves. Important. Replace the valve cover seal. 

 

PCV valve. Cheap and easy replace. 

 

Front bearings were shot on my machine. 

[JustJosh]

1 hour ago, WME said:

Add a thought.. When you have the rear brakes done, give a serious thought to replacing the rear axle seals. Seals are cheap and the mechanic almost has things taken apart to that point. The rear bearings are grease packed and not lubed by the rear axle oil. Save a bunch of labor $$

4 seals and 4 bearings in the rear axle.

New wheel cylinders might be a good idea too.

 

I'll add it to the list. This is kind of my thought process, might as well bite the bullet and get it all done once the rear end is basically going to be taken completely off any way. My guess is my bill is going to run close to $4000, but buried in there is probably a few hundred dollars savings from only having to take everything off once. 

[JustJosh]

1 hour ago, Scott iv said:

Change the oil to the rear differential. Renew power steering fluid and brake fluid (hopefully fluid will be done with brake job).  Rotor and cap. Inspect battery terminals and ground wire. Inspect exhaust system. Drive the vehicle a bunch locally and listen to your machine closely prior to the trip. Look for fluid leaks regularly for a few months so you can get after them. 

 

I agree with Linda and the valves. Important. Replace the valve cover seal. 

 

PCV valve. Cheap and easy replace. 

 

Front bearings were shot on my machine. 

The exhaust system and battery were one of the few things already done.  I'll add others to my list. My guess is that front-end stuff is going to have to wait till spring.