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Whats the maxium mileage recorded on a toy home in here?


Totem

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Simple survey to the admins or others.

We have a lot of data right here in this site. What are the OEM mileage kings as reported here?

Whats your rigs mileage at on original motor before any overhaul. This would be a truth in engineering measurement here - an actual toy home not a t100 or 4 runner etc.

 

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http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4347-how-many-miles-does-your-dolphin-have/

The above link was all i found on quick glance. Impressive amount of 22res in there. I wonder what motor oil they were using? (lol)

 

Edited by Totem
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I met an old guy on the road one time with an 80 or 81 Dolphin. He had the odometer that only goes to 99,999 but he taped a number in front of it so he knew his real mileage. I talked to him to tell him about the bad axle he had. Told me it was kind of late to worry about that and showed me the odometer. He said he'd turned it over a few times. Read somewhere around 350,000 miles. Smoked like a forest fire and back fired but he was still driving it and living in it. I'm guessing that's with close to no maintenance. I think some people really do have angels that watch over them.

Linda S

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They all will have some issues 22RE will need a chain abound 150K oil leaks at the crank seal ocasional head gasket and nitpicking stuff but 200 to 300K is not out of the question.

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Hey look, he dropped in a nice non-interference engine in a bay that most likely had a 3.0 in it to start correct?  There was a lot of fabrication compared to a bolt in swap of same oem motor. All the more power to him. I congratulate the effort, but why not put a hemi or diesel and have it shoot flames on a lift kit? 

The points i am making here were in context to a guy thats bay is setup for a 22re and the fact you can slide a power band to a better place with a built 22re motor. Couple that with the built motor having better chain guides than stock and known wear points being made better -To me its better than trying to re-engineer that situation into something else. Ive seen the blog its a cool build but less space.  The only thing i am not in alignment on is that belt or any belt tortured by the heat of the motor home situation holding up like a chain nor giving the warning signs before it goes. Those truck belts just arent seeing strained duty heat like these RVs.  I was pleased to see the 3.4 was non interference so hes got me there though ive read many reports of 22res breaking chains and being ok no bent rods. Either way there are a heck of a lot of 22re based rigs running passed 200k in this forum in reality - truth also I am still skeptical on the claims of corvette speeds on steep slopes even with that setup. Ohhh but it could be supercharged and turbod and..

well a simple head change on a 20r on as in my case cams for a 22re porting etc can also be done with far less space and tinkering. To get real world practical power also with far less modifications and a shop can still work on it with a chiltons manual and not need you in there. I dont think the 22re has to be a loud motor either it just suck how still the exhaust path is and how hot it gets.

Edited by Totem
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And i can also elaborate on the truth on engineering comment also - context! Belts are more far more prone to heat and ambient failure than chains. So you have seen some belts last a while because owners ignored service interval and reported unicorn stories on a truck site? Thats great how many had 7000 lbs of RV on them again? The all important truth in engineering is form fit AND function. Sell me a part designed to withstand a certain temp well enough to make warranty in the as intended duty environment is one thing but telling me that part will perform the same pulling 6800-7000 lbs plus air resistance of the rigs shape in a small bay that heats up fast in july... kevlar or not thats a recipe for premature failure on known duty cycle let alone extra expectations... lecture me when that tortured 3.4 hits 350k miles in a toy home like the 22res already have.

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3 hours ago, Totem said:

Hey look, he dropped in a nice non-interference engine in a bay that most likely had a 3.0 in it to start correct?  There was a lot of fabrication compared to a bolt in swap of same oem motor. All the more power to him. I congratulate the effort, but why not put a hemi or diesel and have it shoot flames on a lift kit? 

The 3.0 to 3.4 engine swap is bolt in. Obviously in a 22r powered rig it would not be. But that swap has also been done countless times...

The points i am making here were in context to a guy thats bay is setup for a 22re and the fact you can slide a power band to a better place with a built 22re motor. Couple that with the built motor having better chain guides than stock and known wear points being made better -To me its better than trying to re-engineer that situation into something else. Ive seen the blog its a cool build but less space.  The only thing i am not in alignment on is that belt or any belt tortured by the heat of the motor home situation holding up like a chain nor giving the warning signs before it goes. Those truck belts just arent seeing strained duty heat like these RVs.  I was pleased to see the 3.4 was non interference so hes got me there though ive read many reports of 22res breaking chains and being ok no bent rods. Either way there are a heck of a lot of 22re based rigs running passed 200k in this forum in reality - truth also I am still skeptical on the claims of corvette speeds on steep slopes even with that setup. Ohhh but it could be supercharged and turbod and..

IF, the belt breaks, no harm no foul. I would never argue that fact that the 22re stuff doesn't go into the higher miles . They are a dime a dozen (which is a good thing as far as reliability goes).  I guess I'm confused. Your argument is that a re-engineered 2xr engine performs better and is more reliable than a bone stock 3.4? 

"Those truck belts just arent seeing strained duty heat like these RVs. " - Yes, because no one ever loaded a Toyota pickup beyond it's carry capacity and drove it around for its entire life. 

In fact, I've got a completely burned up 3.0 powered truck on my property, burnt to crisp. Pop the hood and literally everything has melted away. But, GASP - the timing belt still look great. Happy to upload a picture for you. 

3 hours ago, Totem said:

well a simple head change on a 20r on as in my case cams for a 22re porting etc can also be done with far less space and tinkering. To get real world practical power also with far less modifications and a shop can still work on it with a chiltons manual and not need you in there. I dont think the 22re has to be a loud motor either it just suck how still the exhaust path is and how hot it gets.

 

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6 hours ago, Totem said:

well a simple head change on a 20r on as in my case cams for a 22re porting etc can also be done with far less space and tinkering. To get real world practical power also with far less modifications and a shop can still work on it with a chiltons manual and not need you in there. I dont think the 22re has to be a loud motor either it just suck how still the exhaust path is and how hot it gets.

 

22r/20r hybrid is a good swap for seat of the pant's performance feel. 20r head on 22r block. (or bore an early 20r block to it's maximum (they have thicker casing than later 20r blocks) and then its the same thing as a 22r/20r hybrid)..) Common belief is that it raises compression. It actually just flows a whole lot better due to it's pre-emission design.  It would not be a bolt on swap for your fuel injected engine due to the difference in intake manifold designs. It's been done, but not often.  *CAM* - just one, in your case. 

I meant loud, as in inherently noisy by design (2xr series). Turn screw/lock nut valve adjustment vs shim over bucket will always be noisier. Valve train noise, injector noise, chain rattle, make it a louder engine. Nothing to do with exhaust, just the nature of that engine. 

Edited by danny dan
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All I see the timing chains & belts doing is 'powering/turning' the camshaft (and a few other bits). I don't see how this 'service' changes much between an empty pickup and a 7000lb motorhome. However, if power was transmitted to the rear wheel with chains ......  :)

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Toyota truck engines are tough all of them. There is a guy on a Tacoma site that has 390K on a 4L 6cyl 6 speed with no major work last I heard he was about to give it to his son to drive.

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I'm just not a fan of paying for Belt changes and am the sort that would worry about them. Danny Dan is a self professed master mechanic that has had prior experience lighting a motor on fire to show the resilience of the belt and YES lets see those pics! I fully yield the lack of experience on my part of driving vehicles with belts far longer than they should be and I do NOT like tearing down V blocks. I dont really like working inside motors - I have people do that.

ambient tester testing of parts is unfortunately though, more than that. The motor would need to be run in a hot box that simulates the duty cycle temperatures of the application. So how does the 7000 pounds of motorhome make any difference to the belt or chain ? Again, I will state my personal belief that the Toy bay will be much hotter and under more stresses than the normal environment and not its intended tested one. So in effect you putting the 3.4 in is just that. You will need to duty cycle it to failure before you can state that it will achieve any form of longevity in that application. And yes these engines are tough.

I am in no way offended by this conversation, I am sorry if my opinions have offended anyone, but they stand. I have no experience fabricating motors into unintended applications but work with people that do and test them; and before any facts can be stated about performance, testing must occur. the 22re was applied to these motor homes so I stayed with that.

Edited by Totem
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On 4/21/2018 at 9:18 AM, danny dan said:

 

22r/20r hybrid is a good swap for seat of the pant's performance feel. 20r head on 22r block. (or bore an early 20r block to it's maximum (they have thicker casing than later 20r blocks) and then its the same thing as a 22r/20r hybrid)..) Common belief is that it raises compression. It actually just flows a whole lot better due to it's pre-emission design.  It would not be a bolt on swap for your fuel injected engine due to the difference in intake manifold designs. It's been done, but not often.  *CAM* - just one, in your case. 

I meant loud, as in inherently noisy by design (2xr series). Turn screw/lock nut valve adjustment vs shim over bucket will always be noisier. Valve train noise, injector noise, chain rattle, make it a louder engine. Nothing to do with exhaust, just the nature of that engine. 

Never stated it would be for the 22re - just educating you on the built heads of 22reperformance are in fact ported and not stock which is akin to my afore mentioned example with the 22r/20r head mod. I also disagree on the exhaust with you. The exhaust path on the toyota pickup is horribly stiff and does not flex well. For that its prone with vibration and extreme heat and thus leaks form and leaks are louder. With a well sealed exhaust path the 22re pickup is not that bad sound wise.

Edited by Totem
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On 4/23/2018 at 9:54 AM, Totem said:

 Danny Dan is a self professed master mechanic that has had prior experience lighting a motor on fire to show the resilience of the belt and YES lets see those pics! 

?? It came from an auction. Never said I was a master mechanic at all. Hang on, it's raining. Let me go get you a picture. 

On 4/23/2018 at 9:54 AM, Totem said:

ambient tester testing of parts is unfortunately though, more than that. The motor would need to be run in a hot box that simulates the duty cycle temperatures of the application. So how does the 7000 pounds of motorhome make any difference to the belt or chain ? Again, I will state my personal belief that the Toy bay will be much hotter and under more stresses than the normal environment and not its intended tested one. So in effect you putting the 3.4 in is just that. You will need to duty cycle it to failure before you can state that it will achieve any form of longevity in that application. And yes these engines are tough.

Ok, because no one ever grossly overloaded a Tacoma out in the desert with troops, guns, equipment, etc. I don't even know what you're saying man. If you're going to argue something, try and put some facts behind it. You don't even make sense. Duty cycle? Lol. I can see I'm not going to win here. It's all good. Never mind.

 the 22re was applied to these motor homes so I stayed with that.

Or, not so much. The motor home was "applied" to Toyota cab and chassis platform. 

 

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On 4/23/2018 at 10:25 AM, Totem said:

Never stated it would be for the 22re - just educating you on the built heads of 22reperformance are in fact ported and not stock which is akin to my afore mentioned example with the 22r/20r head mod. I also disagree on the exhaust with you. The exhaust path on the toyota pickup is horribly stiff and does not flex well. For that its prone with vibration and extreme heat and thus leaks form and leaks are louder. With a well sealed exhaust path the 22re pickup is not that bad sound wise.

You're educating me? How? Certainly not grammatically. For real, learn to use some sentence structure man. Damn.  

Where did I even once mention exhaust?? I'm done here. Seriously, trying to discuss technical topics with you is like trying to teach my dog to quit eating cat poop. 

 

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D Please don’t disrespect Totem! He’s extremely knowledgeable about Toyota MH and I’ve learned a lot from him. You I don’t know about! Thanks 

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Totem there are a lot of exotic race cars out there turning 8-10 grand with belts. There is nothing wrong with a belt and they are more efficient than a chain. A 22RE will probably need a chain around 150k with 4 times the labor and expense of replacing a belt at 100k. 

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4 hours ago, danny dan said:

You're educating me? How? Certainly not grammatically. For real, learn to use some sentence structure man. Damn.  

Where did I even once mention exhaust?? I'm done here. Seriously, trying to discuss technical topics with you is like trying to teach my dog to quit eating cat poop. 

 

you stated the 22re is a "loud" motor from various erroneous things that would be imperceptible to the real noise maker on them - the exhaust and its constant leak fighting. So I disagree with you on the true cause of any noise which is the exhaust. Spelling out things for you is much akin to trying to teach Helen Keller how to listen to herself reading an eye chart. At least your dog is trying to clean your house.

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1 hour ago, Maineah said:

Totem there are a lot of exotic race cars out there turning 8-10 grand with belts. There is nothing wrong with a belt and they are more efficient than a chain. A 22RE will probably need a chain around 150k with 4 times the labor and expense of replacing a belt at 100k. 

Belts will fail from tensioner, pulleys, leaks, and all sorts of other issues. its never the belt its always something else that "ate the belt". At that point you still have to get it out and the old one in and that's when the stuck bolts and other issues show up just like with chains.. are they a bit more involved possibly not but may require more specialized tools. should they be changed at recommended intervals? yes.  Recommended intervals from toyota are? chain 90k. belt 90-105k. facts are pesky things but 90 - 105  is a difference of 15% if you go by the book. you will still need to do water pump and the lovelies while in there. Belt motors only advantage to me is the non interference aspect in this case but there are other issues with it.  I had an interference vw tdi loose a belt and grenade its motor.

All my chain motors run fine. The old 22re was at 86k when removed; so it was due for a chain.... water pump and the lovelies. I replaced them by god. all of them. with performance. sue me and by the way mr. "grammar police" there are more than one cam available for the 22re from 22re performance. so it is in fact cams plural.  you select a stage and cam to go with it. so there you have it CAMS.

Edited by Totem
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some more fun for dan:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/220404-life-beyond-200k-miles-22re.html

OMG ^ wow! look at that? still means nothing to me even though its in my favor and one of your own favorite sites.

recommended maintenance interval done by licensed mech with oem VIN showing same motor as whats in it will be easier in the end can you imagine anyone else working on your 3.4 other than you now in that chassis? that's some explaining you will need to do.

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this video shows exactly why i did what i did. improved it where i needed it; kept everything else the same. the only thing that doesnt match my vin is my hubs and axle and thats all done.

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On 4/20/2018 at 2:17 PM, Totem said:

Simple survey to the admins or others.

We have a lot of data right here in this site. What are the OEM mileage kings as reported here?

Whats your rigs mileage at on original motor before any overhaul. This would be a truth in engineering measurement here - an actual toy home not a t100 or 4 runner etc.

 

Hey Totem...newbie to this site but came on board because of my toy home. I am 2nd owner 1984 Toyota Huntsman, 22r motor, 4 speed manual with 253,379.7 actual miles and she runs albeit she needs tuneup and tlc not to mention coach water damage to repair. The only replacement done by 1st owner was the rear 5 lug axle (1/2 ton) to the 6 lug axle (3/4 ton), no overhauls or replacements to motor. Located about 20 miles west of Atlanta, Georgia

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Excellent to see the chain hold up that well. Well within numbers reported on belt users. I am on a rant because of a perception that the belts are somehow vastly superior to chains or have some magical property about them that makes them ok to ignore their recommended service interval any more than a chain. On an interference motor like our 22's we tend to have a mindset on proper maintenance observations but if we want to discuss longevity between the two motors I am also of the belief the 22 series is just as perfectly capable of going through a desert drought of maintenance neglect as chancing over 200k with a belt. Apparently its an un-"poop"- ular opinion... hehehehe

There is also a misconception that valve to piston interference is the only slayer of a motor when a belt or chain fails. however in many V motors the valves themselves can slap each other and grenade also even though the motor is considered non interference in its traditional sense. This is known as "valve interference". At present I am unsure if the 3.4 is one of these or not. Perhaps our nascent conversational players can update us on that.

Edited by Totem
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On 4/24/2018 at 9:28 PM, Totem said:

Belts will fail from tensioner, pulleys, leaks, and all sorts of other issues. its never the belt its always something else that "ate the belt". At that point you still have to get it out and the old one in and that's when the stuck bolts and other issues show up just like with chains.. are they a bit more involved possibly not but may require more specialized tools. should they be changed at recommended intervals? yes.  Recommended intervals from toyota are? chain 90k. belt 90-105k. facts are pesky things but 90 - 105  is a difference of 15% if you go by the book. you will still need to do water pump and the lovelies while in there. Belt motors only advantage to me is the non interference aspect in this case but there are other issues with it.  I had an interference vw tdi loose a belt and grenade its motor.

All my chain motors run fine. The old 22re was at 86k when removed; so it was due for a chain.... water pump and the lovelies. I replaced them by god. all of them. with performance. sue me and by the way mr. "grammar police" there are more than one cam available for the 22re from 22re performance. so it is in fact cams plural.  you select a stage and cam to go with it. so there you have it CAMS.

Totam the 22re were famous for neglect of timing chains they hammered holes in the timing case and flooded the crankcase with antifreeze trashing the bearings because oil floats on water. In order to replace a chain properly you first drop the oil pan then you remove the water pump,the timing case, the tensioner, the chain guides and don't forget the bolt behind the distributer. People that ignore maintenance are asking for trouble to my knowledge there no published interval on 22re timing chains maybe a recommendation after they found out they were beating the timing case to death. You had better think quick when it starts to rattle because it's already beating on the case grinding aluminum into the sump. Changing a belt is simple by comparison. 

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The only change interval that I've ever seen documented from Toyota are the Owners Manual and FSM. 60k miles for the 3VZE belt. No mention of the 22RE chain.

Slightly off-topic, but I find it strange (funny?) that there's no 'time/age' limit for the 3VZE belt (the only maintenance item without one) yet there are time limits on 22RE & 3VZE valve adjustments! :)

"A quiet chain is a happy chain" - Me

1993 Maintenance Schedule (con't).jpg

1993 Maintenance Schedule.jpg

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Fascinating, so now its Chain recommendation is by sound or not at all and Belt at 60,000 miles per Derek and we have Maineah in the background saying something about belts being easier to work on than chains which may just be because they are done more often. yet no one is disputing the vast amount of Rigs (in this site) that have 22s in them with over 200k miles applied to them from factory. How many 3.4's with toy home chasis in here again that had their miles applied in them?

This is looking better by the minute for sticking with a 2x series motor, Of which I prefer the 22re personally. Cult like following aside, I have mine doing exactly what i need it to.

So, Maineah, whats the procedure for replacing the belt in the 3.4 ? any sticky wickets there or is it just a socket wrench and some wd 40... no special tools? no timing adjustments or callibration? you have well described the 22re maintenance process. Thats good to know. funny thing is - as per observation in here, and elswhere the 22re was famous for being awesome. And of course to Dereks point its nice to get warning before failure which chains do nicely. Belts not so much. keep going this is great discussion... :)

 

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30 minutes ago, Totem said:

Fascinating, so now its Chain recommendation is by sound or not at all and Belt at 60,000 miles per Derek ...

Well, where do your change interval 'facts' come from? Mine are published by Toyota.

My 'sound' comment was made in jest. But better than the same advice often given WRT 3VZE valve clearances! :)

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38 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

Well, where do your change interval 'facts' come from? Mine are published by Toyota.

My 'sound' comment was made in jest. But better than the same advice often given WRT 3VZE valve clearances! :)

My stats came from Maineah...LOL the thing here is ...

 

This all started because someone took offense to me recommending replacing belts at recommended interval and suggesting its quite ok to ignore belt change past 200k miles I am assuming in an attempt to suggest that was one of the reasons for preferring a 3.4 to a 22re. I had read online 90k for the 3.4 but you have proven it to be 60 in fact.  either way I wont have to deal with a belt change if its easy or not.

 

Edited by Totem
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On 4/24/2018 at 9:28 PM, Totem said:

Recommended intervals from toyota are? chain 90k. belt 90-105k.

I'm referring to your 'facts', not anything anyone else might have written. Are you saying you're quoting someone else?

EDIT. I've no idea what the Toyota maintenance schedule is for the 3.4 V6, though I strongly suspect it's the same 60k miles as every other one I've seen.

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