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My Toyota Motorhome


Found 21 results

  1. All is working well, but I'm doing a bit of pre-Spring maintenance since it's sunny and 70º today—topping up my Group 29 with distilled water and cleaning up connections, etc. Anybody know what the three connections would typically be off of the coach battery positive wire, seen in the photo? One circuit breaker is 15A, the other two are 30A. I need to do more meter testing, but only one of them seems to terminate at the 12V panel inside. I assume that one is a charge wire from the Alternator... but what about the third?
  2. Hello all, I bought my 1987 Dolphin with everything including manuals EXCEPT the original house battery AND, curiously, the battery manual. So not sure what specs a replacement battery should have. Could anyone help with this? Thanks in advance, PJ
  3. My father passed away recently and my brother and I have inherited a few vehicles we need to move out of his storage unit. One is a mid-80s Sunrader that has sat for 3-6 months, which appears to have drained the batteries. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I reason that his Sunrader probably has 2 12 volt batteries under the hood because one acts as a starting battery, and the other runs the electronics...or something. Because I think the batteries might need to be replaced, I'd like to figure out which one is critical to starting, so I don't have to buy two. The general configuration is one battery in front of each headlight. If it's of any consequence or consistent with something an intelligent person would do if they were not planning on taking any trips soon, the positive cable was disconnected on the driver's side battery.
  4. Help! Looking for input on how to power my DC circuits with solar - was told by an old RV repair guy that my 200 watt solar panels (1200w inverter) and my (new) deep cycle battery are not adequate to run the DC circuits on my 1988 Dolphin. Said I’d need more batteries, or a generator. Pretty sure I’ve seen setups like this that work?? The Air Conditioner, fridge, and cabin outlets all work on shore power but I only have cabin lights when running on the (new, charged) battery. Any help is appreciated.
  5. Hello! Brand new to the forum. Brand new to RVing. I just bought a 1990 Toyota Dolphin yesterday. It’s a beautiful rig but the previous owner made a number of mods to suit their needs and they don’t exactly suit ours. Namely, they removed everything LP, though the main line/fixtures are still there but we now have a 3.2 cu ft mini fridge and no stove. Eventually we may convert it back, but we need to leave on a trip relatively soon so we’re going to attempt to run the fridge off the battery through an inverter and I have some questions. I’ve spent all day trying to figure this out how to make this setup work for us. I think, based on some research, that I’m going with a pure sign wave 1200w inverter. - The battery is on the passenger side under a bench but sealed inside a box. Wires come out of the box and attach to two silver things with small terminal posts (see picture - I know little about electricity other than what the internet has taught me in the last 12 hours, so I don’t know what those are called.) Can I wire the inverter to those things? If so, which of the four posts is positive and negative? If not, how do I connect the inverter since the battery is inside that box? - While driving, with the alternator give enough power to maintain the battery level enough to run the fridge? - There is just one 12v battery installed. Would you recommend adding a second battery? If so, I then have questions about where to install it and how to connect it to the original battery? Does the new battery need to be in a similar box? Could I somehow open up that box and make it bigger? Im sorry for so many questions. This forum has already been a helpful resource for me. I know someone on here named Zero had some posts about running a similar Igloo fridge on an inverter and being able to get a couple days out of a single battery charge, so, Zero, if you’re reading this, help me out
  6. Hello- Keep fixing problems, keep finding problems. But I am getting closer. Current problem- I bought a brand new marine battery for the coach, worked great but noticed the charge kept decreasing until now its dead (after spending two days at the mechanic getting some engine work done). So I figured the wires are connected properly to the engine battery but I don't know. Everything looks connected properly in the little battery box. I looked in the engine but I don't know what to look for or what should be connected to the battery. I noticed there is some device on the fire wall that has a wire coming out of it that goes nowhere. I've attached pics. I don't think this has to do with the coach battery but who know. Any insight on why my coach battery might now be holding its charge is greatly appreciated.
  7. Does anybody have any experience with this company: http://lithionicsbattery.com/ All the batteries are designed and built in the USA. I am designing my electrical system and have decided to go with lithium. The have a full complement of batteries. I have never heard of them.
  8. Hey Friends, My last topic was looking for an original owner's manual to hopefully answer this question myself. However, I was informed that owner's manuals were more or less expanded brochures, and not of much use. (By the way, I have a '78 Dolphin Micro Mini.) This question is sort of related to the truck, but it's mostly related to the coach...I'm wondering how the batteries work? Or specifically, how the power works. I have a regular car battery, and a deep cycle battery. At least that's how I understand it. The gentleman who sold me the camper said that the main battery is dead (it totally is), and that the car itself is running off of the deep cycle battery (which, will likely also need replaced). So...how does all this work? I imagine both batteries must be charged by the alternator, but like, which battery powers what, currently? And did these campers come with a generator, originally? I can't find one, so I'm guessing no. How does shore power factor into this? Those wires are janky, and I'll likely have to replace it, but like, on the campers little grid, where does everything fit in? A primer would be nice, if someone would like to take the time to educate a noob. Or, if you prefer to point me toward a resource where this information would be found. I've looked through here and found lots of awesome resources about troubleshooting, repair, and enhancement/addition...but nothing that really gives me a primer on how the system worked out of the factory. Thanks in advance!
  9. What were the orig. battery group sizes for a 1986 Sunrader ? Both of the batteries are located in a fiberglass tray in the engine comp.
  10. Anyone know why this light is showing "Low" but when I test the battery condition via the panel it's full. ?
  11. Pardon my ignorance and thanks for any and all help. I have an '85 Sea Breeze and am wondering if I can run my outlets off of my coach battery? It works when plugged in to 110 but hoping there is a switch somewhere to allow the 12 volt to run the outlets. Also, my coach battery, while old, worked well then weakened and lost all power. I plugged my RV in (supposedly charges both engine and coach batteries) and left it for a few days (I have done this before and thought it was appropriate). Nada. I hooked it up to a battery charger and later realized it was almost completely dry and of course would not hold a charge. It seems by leaving it hooked up to 110 I may have boiled the water out of the battery. I read online that sometimes an RV's charger can take batteries to 13.4 volts which will do this to a battery. Is that bunk? Or should I not charge my coach (and engine) battery by plugging my rv into 110? Again, Thanks for any help. Bassnwhaler
  12. Well, the list of needed repairs continues to mount—arghh... when will I be able to start actually using this RV again?! So, yesterday, I discovered that my Walmart Group 29 Marine Battery is registering <4.0 volts; I'm pretty much considering that thing toast... I can't imagine it would charge up again at this point (?). It is two years old, on the dot, and has been consistently abused, I assume, by the original Magnatek 6300 system in my Warrior. I have ordered a new Powermax converter/charger to upgrade my system, which I hope will increase the longevity of my replacement coach battery. My Question: Anyone found a good deal lately on a deep cycle battery that they'd like to recommend? Wally-World still the best bet for a sub-$200 replacement?
  13. This is an issue which makes no sense to me. One trip across town, and my auto battery is drained to 25%. Now, you would think that I just have an electrical issue under the hood, but... once I am parked and plugged in to electricity, and the battery is charged back up on the charger, by the end of the day, it seems that the AC has drained the battery, and so I charge it overnight with the same result. I have tried this several times. It's brand new, so it's not a bad battery. And I had the same issue with the battery I replaced. I do have a solar panel which runs just the interior lights, but I have tried to run my little house both with the converter off, and with it on. Same result. And even if I were to power everything down and see if the battery discharges... that's not possible, is it? I mean, if nothing is running, the battery should not drain, right? It should also be said that I have a 4000 watt generator on the back which powers the AC as we roll. I'm scratching my head over this. I'm gearing up for a trip across country, and I can't afford to be breaking down. I want everything in working order before we leave. Any ideas?
  14. Hey all, just purchased 1990 Toyota v6 Motorhome, not sure on the RV manufacturer/model. Anyways it has 2, 100 watt solar panels feeding into 2 deep cycles then into an inverter. The batteries were reading 14v from my multi-meter and I'm thinking it was that high cause they were taking in a charge from the panels. The inverter is a Trace 2012SB and when I tap the power button twice I get nothing (i dug up the manual here http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/971-9901-03-01.pdf). This inverter is old AF (I think i saw an inspection note inside it saying 1991) and I think the company is long gone. Can't find any fuses on the sucker so no idea on that. Anyways what trouble shooting steps should I take here? Maybe I ought to just take this to an electronics shop and see if they can test it? Thoughts? Thanks.
  15. I just got a hundred watt solar panel, and am thinking of connecting it to a deep cycle battery--- an inverter, then into the electrical hook up, as to use all the existing wiring inside. Has anyone done this?
  16. I have a 1991 Toyota dolphin. Engine V6 3VZ -E 59,350 miles Has been running fine but after a longer drive, stopped for gas, turned off engine, filled up, then when attempting to restart, it would not turn over. Just a feeble attempt then nothing. Then only the click of the starter. With a jump it started asap and off I went. Once home tested battery, it read 12.4 but since it was old replaced it with a brand new one with good cranking power. Started fine in driveway testing it out several days. Next major trip started up fine, got to camp ground, started fine after a day of rest, then again returning home after using a full tank of gas stopped to refill, same issue, turned key and nothing. No attempts to crank, just DEAD when trying to start. Attached a jump start charger and cranked over asap. now back home. Car has rested a day, Checked Battery amp and it reads 14.5 and she started up fine...so appears battery is holding her charge. that is not draining. Does not appear the alternator is at fault unless YOU have thoughts here, the starter does not chatter when turing the key like it is going bad? Or to indicate a hot spot in the starter....so I am stumped? Seems when she runs for a length and gets hot then when turned off it won't fire back up...needing some extra boost to turn over OR time to cool down perhaps but not sure how long or if that is the case. Any suggestions as to where to problem solve this would be appreciated? Had a VW bus years back that when hot the starter locked up so had to do the tapping trick with a hammer underneath to get er started but this does not appear to be the same as the starter chattered on turning the key. Anyone else have this problem or can give me advice as how to trouble shoot this? I am a novice with engine stuff but am learning......thanks.
  17. Proving this Forum right again. Which always costs me money. I can't get a cord to the Dolphin cause it's across the road. So I figured I'd get one of those cheap generators just to charge the battery and run everything while I'm working on it. Coach battery was down to 12.16. Hooked up generator to power cord. Half an hour later battery was up to 12.17. Went down and got my battery charger, hooked it up to battery and generator. Half an hour later, battery was at 12.70. Full charge. Well I did read it on this Forum. The old converters are trickle chargers. Probably work better to just run the engine for a half hour. Or make some jumpers for the coach battery so that I don't have to slide it out to connect it to the charger. Well the new converter box moves higher up on the priority list.
  18. I want to keep both engine battery and coach battery recharged while I'm away from home. So I looked into trickle down chargers with a solar panel. If I use this to charge the engine battery, does it also charge the coach battery? Or do I have to buy a separate one for the coach battery?
  19. Hey all, We're preparing for our first time out in our new-to-us 1986 Sunrader and I am a little overwhelmed by all the info on the internet with regard to our electrical capabilities. Here's what we're working with: -2 batteries under the hood - one each for the cab and the coach -30 Amp cord for plugging in at campsites -One 12V DC plug in the dash and one in the coach -One AC wall outlet in the coach I purchased a 30 Amp extension cord and a 30A-120V adapter, as well as a little 75W inverter for the dash, which has one AC and two USB outlets. We will be doing a combination of camping at campsites, boondocking in national parks and forests and on BLM land, and boondocking in urban areas, usually in a friend's driveway or the street in front of the house. The longest we plan to stay in one spot is two nights. I know that the lights, fridge (3-way) and furnace work while boondocked, but I'm wondering what our other capacities may be, while boondocked, rolling down the road, and plugged in. Here are my most pressing questions: 1) Will the wall outlet in the coach work while rolling down the road? (I traveled with my sister and brother in law in their 38-footer and she was able to run a crock pot while we drove - seems like a great idea, but not sure if our rig is capable). 2) Will the wall outlet in the coach work while boondocked? If so, well enough to power a toaster or toaster oven (for some reason, toast feels very important and our oven doesn't have a broiler)? What about a small fan? And if it will power a fan, will it power it overnight? Is it ok to run a short extension cord within the coach from the wall outlet? 3) From what I can gather, we should only run the air conditioner in the coach when plugged in via the 30A at a campground. I assume since they sell (and we bought) the 30A-120V adapter that it is ok to plug-in to house power, but is it ok to do it via a heavy duty 120V extension cord? Can I run the air conditioner off that? Any other dos and don'ts when doing this? 4) From the reviews, I can gather that charging iPhones and iPods with the 75W dash inverter is ok, but there's no definite answer about a laptop. Any ideas? It would be for charging the laptop only, not actively using it. I'm going to give her a dry run in the driveway this weekend, sanitizing the water tanks, checking the oven to see how much the temp is off, seeing how good of a shower we can take, etc. I would really appreciate any feedback y'all might have so I don't go plugging things in willy nilly, blowing fuses, and causing unnecessary damage. Thanks so much for your time and I'm really excited to have such an amazing resource at our disposal. Thanks moderators and everyone who participates in the group. Eryn
  20. Hello, We are the proud owners of a 1985 Sunrader with 54K on it. It is a great running vehicle with one exception. It will not start if it is not up to a full charge. If it has been sitting for a while and the battery only has 12.5 volts in it, then it just "clicks" when you turn the key. Sometimes if you hold the key in the start postion for 5 or 10 seconds, the starter will go, and turns over very quickly. Most vehicles, if the battery is down a bit, will crank slowly. This one just doesn't go. I have replaced the engine battery, and that seemed to help for a while, but it is back to its old tricks. Could it be something in the starter or ignition switch? Once started, the alternator show 14 volts, so I know it is charging OK, and once It has started for the day, it seems to be OK for the rest of the day. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Camping season is upon us!!!
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