Vanman

Tells you which side gives most of the problems. When I was having the ford exhaust leak fixed was told it was broken ex man bolts. He fixed that and said it was still leaking next step was a new manifold. I said how's the gasket and he said there is none Ford builds them like that. Once online I found several makers of the other side man, but many makers of the bad side. Also several of them came with a gasket. Looked up the Felpro gasket number and gave it to him over the phone. Since they come as a set, one for each side, I had him install both. End of problem Gotta love the internet!!!

I have many I got that didn't work, the two on the right work for me, but I have less clearence than most as I have added the wheel simulators, which cut down on your clearences in the rears. I also use a piece of plastic tubing with a small round wood dowel inside it, to stiffen it, for removal of the front and inner rear valve caps.

I got the Toyota wheel stems from the dealer, not cheap but fit like it was made for it, actually they are

My Dolphin has a 2 tube florescent fixture in the middle of the ceiling. After removing it I drilled tru the wood to the side of the removed vent to run the 12VDC. I also installed a slide switch in the fixture to kill the power to the fan. I fuse and switch everything, no parasitic current drain and a kill switch when you have to work on it.

When I got the Ford the PO had filled the radiator with water and it was rusty, it took me several flushes to get it all out. "The ground connection from the engine battery (screw into the fender well 18" from the battery) was bad - correcting this was easy and avoided big trouble." That alone could have improved things considerably (sorry no spell check) I have more of an insect problem here than mice, how about if I replace the plastic screen with stainless steel. Will that be OK for rodents as well ???

Look at the URL, has 2 extra backslashes and extra letters in between. Prbly a bad copy/paste job.

I would start by removing all the coach battery wires, after labeling them each with a number and +/- that you think is correct . Then see what happens, what works and what doesn't. If everything is OK next start to check coach battery wires one by one. Hopefully just a bad connection or misconnected wire. If lots of wires involved keep a list of what's what. Take your time, be careful, write it all down. Might want to check tightness and condition of alternator belt first.

I couldn't find anything except a rating of 84H, speed rating OK but load rating way too low. Please post the link you are looking at.

Bought a used 1974 Datsun B-210 from a guy who lived by the beach. Body was rusting out something fierce when some low life stole it many years later. But it always ran great and never needed anything except I stripped the reverse gears in the tranny. Could not believe how small those gears were compared the the Yamaha motorcycles I was racing at the time.

According to my chiltons book, not exactly a great reference, there is no relay shown on the wiring diagram. Everything seems to run thru the wiper/washer switch assembly. Maybe the relay is inside the switch assembly??

Insects will pass thru the 1/4" mesh. So far it's been several years and nothing had attacked the screening. I made it cone shaped so I don't think it's that much restriction, not a big V-8. Funny story. When I bought the Aerostar from the company that I worked for I had a tune-up done, cause they refused to tune it up as long as it passed smog. Turns out the wires were bad, rotor&cap toasted, plugs looked terrible and one of the plugs was missing the side electrode. I joked with the mechanic that it would now get better mileage and he said "no but you will save the catalytic converters which are expensive". Suprise, suprise, it didn't run any better and he was right the gas mileage didn't change any.

Derek up North Did you change the air filter? The filter box on the V6 is a favorite nesting spot for mice. I put a piece of plastic screening between the botton airbox intake mount and the protruding tube of the air intake scoop, it's worked ok so far.

"This is because all such loads are purely resistive (for this purpose it is not necessary to know what 'resistive' strictly means). " "Its not light produced that does the job, but simply that the globe, being purely resistive, tricks the generator into working properly. Solid state devices that will not properly switch an inductive load has been a problem for a long time. Some industrial controls use a low resistance wirewound resistor as an resistive load so the SCR's switch properly, strange things occur to system performance when the resistor opens.

They fit everywhere I've put then in my 91 Dolphin coach and on the back-up and turn signals on the Toyota. But if used for the turn signal lamp you will have to add a resistor to keep the relay happy or replace the relay. I found a 100 ohm resistor wired across the rear signal bulbs will let me use any combination of lamp/led and everything works. The stock flasher will flash fast with the led's, which I like. The turn on and turn off time for these led is instant so between the high light output of the led and the fast flashing it's really eyecatching. :)

I think the one stage regulators are not allowed anymore. The 2 stage is better and safer too. Try to get one made in america, a friend just got a new Mercedes truck based RV and the first time he tried to use the propane the made in china regulator blew up, couldn't handle the high pressure in the tank. vanman

"just don,t use a chitons manual" You mean like when you're looking at the "chassis electrical" wiring diagrams and you think the starting wiring is wrong, and you are correct in thinking that. But under "engine electrical" section 2 page 12 the ckt is correct??? But no wiring colors on that page. Better than nothing, but I'd get a Haynes. I have the Chilton but looked at one my neighbor's Haynes and it looked much better. Is the factory Toyota book still avaiable?? vanman

Probably not a joke, just a mistake. National RV made a whole lot more Dolphins as class A RV's than the Toyota based ones. That's not even a big one I remember seeing one as big as a bus, like as in Grayhound bus sized. But even though National went out of business a while ago the class A Dolphins are still popular. http://www.rvusa.com/rv-directory/USA/national-rv-4176 vanman

Try these, http://www.amazon.com/Amico-BA15S-68-SMD-Brake-Backup/dp/B007VLFENE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366145356&sr=8-1&keywords=Amico+10+Pcs+Car+1156+BA15S+1206+68-SMD+LED , I got this link from someone else here and they are great !! Love 'em. vanman

Remember slow up and down. I cooked the rotors after the Toyota dealer had replaced the pads, among many other things. Anyway they were way off when they got warm, not too bad around town. When they tell you to use second gear for engine braking on the downhills it's for real. Had Les Schwab redo all the front brake parts, among many other things, all is well now. vanman

Well there used to be pay telephone phones all over the place. Guess I'm showing my age to say I do miss them. vanman

I found the same thing when I was checking the current draw & voltage drops in the RV. With the fuse pulled some of the LED's would lite up dimly. Turns out the ckt on the Progressive Dynamics fuse/connection ckt board has a red LED that lights up when a fuse blows that bypasses the open fuse and feeds voltage to the "open" leg of that ckt. I was gonna disconnect that and forgot about it till yesterday. There's no end to my to-do-lists. vanman

" One of the black wires goes through a small block that is mounted inside the battery box" Is that block an auto-reseting ckt breaker?? see a lot of those on RV's. Check to see if it's conducting. On my Dolphin that is the wire that goes up to the battery isolator in the engine compartment. Try starting the motor with the AC not plugged in to see which wire feeds your battery from the Toyota. vanman

I like the AC but installed a MaxxAir 7500 in a vent and love it. You can set a tempature and it will open and run fan automatically. But if you are using it to suck air out of the RV where does the incoming air come from??? The best I've come up with so far, and would be easier then punching holes in the floor, is to install a screened and closeable vent on the entry door at the bottom. Any other ideas ??? vanman

I called the phone # on the Tekonsha PDF and got a "tech" at Cequent. Could only tell me they are made in Mexico, no other info. I like the idea of a simple relay, but want one of high quality so I'll give the Trombetta a look. Have you ever checked the voltage drop accross the contacts while charging? I tried to get an ohmage reading on mine and lowest I could get after many tries was 69 ohms other times was triple digits sometimes the meter (digital) would just flash around different levels so it's toast. When the last one died I was getting a coupla volts accross it !! vanman

canman47 I was checkimg out the isolator, connections, voltage drops and I checked water pump and lamp draw. My water pump draws 2.5 Amps steady and the lamp in the switch draws 12 milliamps. vanman