Derek up North

You can kill any engine. Some are harder to kill than others. That said, the 22RE Toyota seems to have an excellent reputation. I have seen some (a few) in motorhomes with as high as 250k miles. Of course, I'm only assuming that was on the original engines. I've a V6 with 170k, but I'm once again assuming it's the original engine.

Can't say I've ever heard of a Voyager. Must be pretty rare. Is there any plate on it indicating the name of the manufacturer and where they were located. It'd be nice to see some pictures. Being Canadian, I'm not sure how consistent the description are on your Titles and would guess it might vary from State to State. Which State are you in? My registration (we don't have Titles) says I drive a Winni Warri. No mention of Toyota at all. Go figure!

So can you confirm that you've got 6 bolt wheels on the front too?

Do you still have 5-bolt front wheels, or 6? I.e, has the front end has been changed to a later 1-Tonne setup? It's hard to imagine that the brakes have been changed to anything other than Toyota.

OOPS. A senior moment, compounded by insufficient Caffeine in the system. But anyway, did you ask the parts store for pads for a standard '81 Toyota Pickup?

What vehicle did you give them to look up the part number. I'd imagine it would be a '1984 Toyota Pickup'.

It's quite a bit higher than that. More like 150-170 ft-lbs. Haven't got the reference right now. And it seems there's more than one number floating around, too.

I've just asked a contact (owns Toyota motorhomes) who lives in Grosse Point for any suggestions.

I'll assume you're asking about the rear wheel bearings in a 1-Tonne (6 lug) full floating rear axle. The facts, as I've been able to find them:- - The Service Schedule in the Factory Service Manual states that the Front Wheel Bearings should be cleaned and repacked at 30,000 miles. There is no mention of doing the rear wheel bearings. At any distance. - The 1991 Owner's Manual makes a rather unclear "Wheel Bearing Grease (2 wheel drive)" statement. - Chiltons states "Only the front wheel bearings require periodic service". There are those who claim that the rear wheel bearings should also be done at 30,000 miles, but to date nobody has been able to point out and official source (in writing) for this recommendation. No page number from a FSM, no TSB (Technical Service Bulletin), no letter from Toyota. Nothing. DIY 'How-To'? Haynes? Chilton? FSM?

Don't know any specifics about the Coachman, but in general I think you'll find anything that in other 'Worlds' would be called 'structure' in our motorhomes! I'd try and design something that will place your load as near to the side walls as possible.

Generally, it's mounted on the inner fender on the passenger side, near the truck battery. There'll be a large wire coming off 1 side going to the truck battery and another large (same size) wire that'll disappear to the coach battery. There'll be a 3rd large wire to the alternator. Finally, there'll be a 4th smaller 'contol' wire that will signal the isolator that the engine is running. Once you locate it, I'd suggest that you undo (1 at a time!) each of the wires and give them a good clean and tighten. Then you can check voltage at each of the terminals with the engine off and then running. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/1993/096325.pdf

http://cabbieland.byethost9.com/Sea-Breeze-Refrigerator.html

Sounds like a file that should be added to the 'Files'.

I'd say they'd work as well as they do in the kitchen and bathroom in your home. The only variable that might upset this would be if you live where it gets extremely cold. Of course if you want it completely watertight, use roll/sheet vinyl and seal it around the edges. Or put down Rhinoliner.

I've a feeling that the 15mpg figure occurs when the speeds are kept to 50-55mph. Aerodynamic drag varies with the square of the vehicle speed, so if I remember my aerodynamics right, increasing your speed from 55 to 65mph will increase your aerodynamic drag by 40%.

Have you checked www.car-part.com? Also there's a 1-Ton axle on EBay. The seller mentions that he also has 6 rims. He might only want to sell them as a set.

http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/2006/09/super-camper-inspiration-concept-and.html

Is your Granville a 22RE (4 cylinder) or a V6? How far 'just North' of Detroit are you? I used to live 'just South'. Windsor.

So how old was your tire that blew out?

I've never installed air springs myself, so can't comment. I'd have to say that it would depend on how handy you are and how well equipped your garage is. Since the different motorhomes are all slightly different, you might encounter some minor clearance issues. I think the most common one is with the exhaust system where it passes over the axle.

Try: http://www.truckspring.com/suspension-parts/helper-springs/leaf-springs.aspx Sure you wouldn't prefer air springs?

Glad to help out. You don't think you're getting a bit carried away with a 43 gallon auxiliary tank? I'm usually happy to have an excuse to stop every 2-3 hours. The dogs too.

I've got a SeaBreeze a similar age to yours. Assuming yours is like mine, you can see a sample of exactly what a wall is made of by looking under your dinette cushions. The cushions sit on a piece of 'recycled' wall, probably left over from cutting out the window openings. "Waste not, want not!" So the challenge is to get some glue in there. Just whacky ideas to play with. Not binding, but might lead to a final solution. - Drill a series of holes through the outer skin, inject some adhesive and patch the holes in the fiberglass. Disguise the patched holes with an additional stripe (either vinyl or painted on). - Try the same from the inside (without drilling right through!) and then put new finish (wall paper or paint) on the inside walls. Finally, you'll soon discover that there really isn't much 'structure' in these! Certainly not like I'm used to finding. I'm new to motorhomes in general and am constantly amazed that these don't self-destruct when an 18-wheeler goes past at 70mph in the opposite direction!

Here's another that agrees. If you don't consider yourself a very competent handyman, I'd pass. If it's a 1990, it should have a 3.0 V6. Of course, if you can get it for $1000 you could always convert it to be a low mileage 1-Ton flatbed. If that's of any use to you?

Did some more digging and came up with the 93 FSM. The Service schedule specifically (and ONLY) mentions repacking the front wheel bearings. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/maintenance/1maintena.pdf http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/maintenance/2maint.pdf So it seems to me that if the rear bearings not being repacked lead to premature failure, there would have been a TSB issued. I've never heard of one.