Derek up North

Linda, it has matching 17" rims from a Ford F350 front and rear. Why's he selling? We, he lives full-time in a slightly larger Scotty Serro 4x4 diesel. That might be a valid reason.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/atlas-1986-toyota-sunrader-4x4.211601/

From memory, the rear axle is still the Toyota FF with custom adapters to use 17" Ford F350 rims.

Ah, Atlas. I've got to wonder what it's like to drive with all the extra mass in the wheels and tires.

Funny, that's twice today I've come across "low deck pickup", a term I don't remember seeing before.

How would they know if it's actually 'working'?

What?!? News to me. I thought it was 4x4s that got a 19 gallon tank.

Like this? http://www.specrec.com/porch-light-lens

As near to the house battery as possible to reduce voltage drop is the typical recommendation, but I don't know how well a typical inverter will survive the hostile environment under the hood.

This is a TYPICAL Sunrader wiring diagram. I have no idea if it applies to your year.

No real need to remove the front hubcap, since there are no hubcaps known to man that will fit over a 6-lug wheel.

Correct.

The only such diagram I know of is from Winnebago. What have you got? Back wall DWG 100035T.pdf

"Same same" doesn't really tell us much. Yes, the battery isolator needs to be checked with the engine running and not plugged into shore power.

7v going towards the house is certainly not s good sign, though it wouldn't/shouldn't have anything to do with your converter not charging the house battery. House battery voltage with engine not running and not plugged in? Then again when plugged in?

So it appears your alternator is working since the truck battery. While NOT plugged in to shore power, I would 1st use your multimeter to see if 12v is exiting your battery isolator towards the 'house'. There should also be a circuit breaker near the isolator. The wire from the isolator will either go directly to the house battery or (I suspect) go to a terminal on your converter and then another wire from the converter to the house battery. That seems to depend on the manufacturer. I've seen it done both ways. Continue on to check the voltage at the house battery. There should also be another circuit breaker near the house battery. Of course check all wires and connections for looseness and damage. Do you have access to a stand-alone 12v battery charger? Try charging the house battery. The house battery might 'bad'. Hint. Before disconnecting any wires from the house battery, mark them so you'll know where to reconnect them!

Have you owned for long? Is this a new problem? Do you have a multimeter?

Not something I would ever do. The 'sail' size is part of the safety system design. It is sized to operate when an air flow deemed safe is detected. 'Fooling' it to operate at a lower air flow, in my opinion, is not a good idea.

If the screw heads are rusted, you can bet the rest is too.

The vinyl insert is not designed to do the waterproofing. It's purely cosmetic.

I'm not sure what a '2003 mini' is.

What a very strange image to chose to use! Looks like it's designed to burn your house down!

Take your pick(s). https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk03b7SIMkBFnz62PRbUDY8zmEITS4g%3A1587325577481&ei=iaqcXtrsHLirytMPjJulgA8&q=engine+break+in+instructions+22re&oq=engine+break+in+instructions+22re&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQDDoECAAQRzoGCAAQFhAeOggIIRAWEB0QHlD7qAFY2c8BYPbrAWgAcAJ4AIABvwOIAdkHkgEHMC40LjQtMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwia1cDJoPXoAhW4lXIEHYxNCfAQ4dUDCAs

Don't forget to seal up the seam and screw holes or any new wood will start to rot again.