Skydancer2992

With piston aircraft engines, cutting the oil filter open is normal procedure, to check for metal shavings, sediment or other deposits. Usually, I just find a lot of carbon. With my cars, i do cut open the fuel filters.

I've pulled a timing belt with 140K miles on it and it looked like new. My fan shroud cracked in two places. I used fiberglass cloth and epoxy to make the repairs. Still holding after 20K miles.

Mine just runs off the roof. 91 Warrior.

The valve job involves swapping shims underneath the cam shafts. If the cam shafts are off, much easier to do. To get the cam shafts off, you have to remove the timing belt. If your engine is making good power, then valve adjustment is not needed. If your power is declining, do a compression test to see if a valve is not closing. Then do the valve job.

A Xantrex inverter/charger would automatically switch between batteries and shore power. http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/inverter-chargers/overview.aspx Pricey but sometimes show up on ebay or marine salvage places.

I didn't take the radiator either but I did bend a few fins when a tool slipped. On the nut on the main pulley, brace a breaker bar against the fender wall, detach coil, turn the starter key for a couple of revolutions. Works surprisingly well.

Keep the tank full to avoid condensation of water from the air. Regular use will keep the water to a minimum since the ethanol in the gas will absorb it.

If you are short on time, change the shock only. Maybe your bushings were changed not long ago by the previous owner. Mine looked like Kgibson's pictures, completely worn through the rubber so that metal was contacting metal. Before the replacement, the rubber looked like toothpaste being squeezed out of the shackle bolts.

Uncanny coincidence.

I had a jack stand under the frame so that the axle was hanging down, supported by the springs. Then I used the Toyota bottle jack under the axle to reduce tension.

A diesel engine and five speed transmission. Price is reasonable but the delivery is probably $$$$. http://suchen.mobile.de/wohnwagen-inserat/vw-taro-wohnmobil-servo-top-49-tkm-niefern/209522947.html Google translation: The mobile home is located , despite his age , in a great condition . There stand the previous owner only in the garage and was only once a year , used for a few days . Therefore, the newness desFahrzeugs has been preserved . The engine and transmission are also in perfect order ! If you have further questions, I am happy to assist you by phone .

Indiana would be my choice. Ideas: Some of the RV manufacturers give factory tours: http://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2012/03/rv_factory_tours.php Big RV Show in Elkhart, IA in August: http://rvshows.org/MidwestRVSuperShow.aspx I met Bob and Cheryl at a past gathering - Great folks - Actually, everyone at Toyota rallies have been good people.

www.rockauto.com has the power steering box repair kits, about $30. Probably has the brake parts as well.

Hardware stores sell a brass double nipple that will allow you to splice two lengths of hose together.

My 96 Toyota 4Runner has both driver and passenger side airbags.

Yes, you can just cut it and plug it. Six years ago, the piece between the return tank nipple and T for the generator began leaking on my 91 Warrior- looked like a rodent had nibbled on it. I drove into Autozone, climbed under the camper and pulled out that piece. Autozone was out of stock in that fuel line. They had fuel injection hose that was stronger (and more expensive). Size was either 5/16 or 1/4.

I already had the camper jacked up while doing my Prothane bushings on the springs. The airbags were cut in half using tinsnips. The leaf springs were already drooping down to give me clearance to install the coil springs. Inserted the old airbag halfs on either side of the coil spring and the job was complete. About five minutes work per side. I used these: http://www.amazon.com/Superior-12-1500-Design-Helper-Capacity/dp/B00029K1XK

As a temporary measure, I installed coil springs over my useless airbags. Eventually, I plan to go back to airbags. The springs were $25 from Amazon and have worked OK.

I have a 91 Warrior (90 Toyota Chassis). My bushings were all the same size but the set recommended by Prothane web site came with two larger bushings. I called Prothane and they immediately sent two more of the smaller bushings, no charge, to complete my job. I believe the set recommended by Kgibson4 will work for the newer Toyhomes as well. If not, Prothane will stand behind their product.

Progressive charges me about $400 per year for agreed value of $8000, plus a valuables rider on the contents.

I ordered a Hankook through Walmart's web site last Fall. After it arrived, Walmart (Millington, TN) mounted it at no charge but could not balance it. An adapter is needed for the wider center and many tire places don't have it.

I built a fuselage for a kitplane out of half inch honeycomb aluminum, a BD-17. I'm buying some scraps out of a place in St. Louis, about $50 for a 2' X 4' panel. Also considering using some material to reinforce the roof around the AC unit.

Nice job. I'm considering the use of honeycomb aluminum panels for a future rebuild project. Normally used for aircraft floors, the stuff is very light.

"Overweight and speed are the greatest RV hazards." She is right. I'm bad about the speed part as my time is limited. Retirement looks so good.

Low voltage has been the main issue I've encountered in RV campgrounds, usually during hot or cold weather and many occupants. The AC/heat will draw increased current and the breaker will trip. Since I started using an autoformer, no problems. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-power-cords/30-amp-autoformer.htm