COYota

http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=3986&MakeId=37&ModelId=484

That is correct. Removing the bearing races took a lot of determined tapping with a drift, but they were interchangeable between hubs The inner seals are pretty flimsy and are next to impossible to remove without damage. They're cheap tho, about $5 at AutoZone.

Hey, that's mine! Here's some more info on my swap, also quoted from the Yahoo group: "The service manual page I included shows the six lug hub in a bubble in the upper right and seems to suggest that it will just swap in for the five lug hub. That's what I did and it fit just great. The swap does require different calipers. The six lug rotors are thicker and I don't think the original calipers would fit around them. As you can see in one of the pictures, the 1T calipers are considerably beefier. I did my swap on the cheap. I got the rotors and hubs including the six lug to six lug deep dish adapters, the 1T brake calipers, and the dust shields from a 1990 Ryder truck at a U-pull salvage yard for $70. The bearing races in the hubs I bought were pitted, so I pulled them and swapped in the races and bearings from my original hubs which still seemed to be in good shape. The brake pads weren't worn out yet and while the rotors were a little rusty, they didn't have any grooves worn in them, so I let them be. I couldn't see any difference in the dust shields, but since I had them, I swapped them anyway. I don't think I would have needed to. I cleaned the bearings thoroughly and packed them with new grease. The only new parts I installed were inner bearing seals and cotter pins, so the entire swap cost me less than $100 and a few hours of labor. I got six wheels with my 1T rear axle when I did that swap, so I already had those. It probably would have been wise to swap out the bearings and brake pads, but I was short on cash. It wasn't difficult to take them apart, so I wouldn't feel bad about doing it again to replace those parts when necessary." Brad 84 Sunrader 180RD FtC CO

Sounds great! Any pictures of the updated interior? Brad FtC CO 84 Sunrader 180RD

http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?r=sv&p=wi-mirror-mi.dhh

I did that swap on my '84: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/1273577737/pic/list Not sure about the previous generation.

I'd be inclined to do that myself, but SR-5 seats have been few a far between and the ones I've seen have been thrashed. Besides, the OP was inquiring about nice fresh new aftermarket seats.

I think these look pretty nice: http://www.corbeau.c...eats/sportseat/ They have custom bolt-in mounts available for Toyota trucks. I"ve seen them listed at several places for around $640 a pair with free shipping. Not outrageous compared to some other aftermarket seats. Anyone have any experience with them? Brad 1984 Sunrader 180RD

Great idea Steve. Would love to see pictures. Brad 1984 Sunrader 180RD

I believe that you are correct about the aspect ratio of the 185R14C tires being approximately 82. While 195/75R14 passenger car tires are certainly easier to find, they are more than an inch smaller in diameter and are unlikely to have an adequate load rating for an RV. In some cases, the sidewalls of wider tires have been know to touch when they're used as duals, leading to failures. I'd strongly recommend making the effort to find the correct size with a Load Range D rating. They're out there.

Those GMC's were very cool. They used the same front wheel drive powertrain as an Olds Toronado.

Pretty sure those are Saab seats based on the shape of the headrest.

They bolt on in place of the original bump stops. Anyone tried them? http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/toyota.htm http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/application-pdfs/TOR2002.pdf http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/toyota.htm

Hi, My '84 Sunrader has 198,000 miles on the original 22R with a 4 speed MT. It uses a little oil, but still runs good and gets 16-17mpg. Brad FtC CO 84 Sunrader 180RD

Hi, Don't know about adding a 12v element, but I've run the refrigerator and water heater continuously, used the stove regularly, and even run the furnace a bit on a week long trip in my 18' Sunrader and only used about half the tank of propane. Running the refrigerator on 12v will run the battery down pretty quick. I only use the 12v option while I'm driving. Sounds like some folks leave it on propane then too. Brad 84 Sunrader 180RD

Hi, Check out these guys: http://www.interwestsports.com/ I haven't bought from them, but the prices look good. Free shipping too. They sell awnings and screen rooms made by ShadeMaker. Anybody here have experience with them? -Brad

Not sure what size the bolts are, but once the cone washers are out, you may not even need to use them. If you haven't gotten the cones out, you can crank on those bolts all you want and the axle's not moving. Brad

Hi, I drove my '84 Sunrader with a 22R and manual transmission over 1000 miles this last week up and down mountain passes, 60-65 mph on the freeway, and up to 90° heat over the last week and the temp gauge never went up over about 1/4 of the way. I suspect you have a problem that needs to be fixed. Looks like you've already addressed the most likely culprits, but something's not right! -Brad

I have KYB MonoMax shocks on my 18' Sunrader and I've been very happy with the job they do controlling rebound. Bilstiens also have a very good reputation. I have Monroe Gas Magnums on my Nissan pickup and I'm unimpressed. Not bad for the cheap price, but nothing special. -Brad

Hi Tom, Removing those cone washers can be a booger. Mine had been painted over and were essentially glued in place. I ended up needing to tap around the outside edge of them with a chisel and hammer until they popped loose. Be aware that when they come loose they may go flying off to parts unknown. I lost two of them 'cause I didn't watch them close enough. I was going to replace all of them with new until I found out that the Toyota dealer wanted about $5 each for them. -Brad

Hi Jeff, That's a tough one. The short answer is that its worth what someone is willing to pay for it, but that doesn't help you much. I've heard that 80's Toyota motorhomes are approximately worth the last digit of the year in thousands. Tha'td make an '85 worth about $5000. I don't know if that's still considered accurate, but its not a bad place to start. From there I'd add, maybe $1000 for the very low mileage. I'd add another $500-1000 if it was a Sunrader (which its not) 'cause they seem to be in higher demand than other brands. Past that, its impossible to say without taking a close look at it. Does it have the correct six-lug rear axle? If not, deduct $1500 or so to replace it. Need tires? Subtract another $600 or so. Do all the appliances work? If not, subtract the replacement cost. For example, a new 3-way fridge costs about $800. Any leaks or water damage? Subtract the cost of repairs. Those will be hard to estimate without tearing it apart, but could run into the $1000's. Any other repairs needed? Subtract for them. It all comes down to condition. If its in excellent shape and needs very little work, I'd guess its worth about $6000. If its in need of lots of repairs, it could be worth next to nothing. Are you buying or selling? If you're buying, take your time and find a rig that's been well cared for. If you're selling, be realistic about your rig's condition and price it accordingly. In either case, you're unlikely to come out ahead on repairs. Brad 84 Sunrader 180RD FtC CO

Another LeSharo Article: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/tag/lesharo/

Hi Marcus, Yes, you'll need four (six, seven?) wheels like this (see attached picture). They are 14x5" wheels with three hand holes and 6 on 7.25" bolt pattern. They're not the same as regular Toyota pickup six lug wheels. I've sometimes heard them called "big" six lug wheels. The two pictured are currently for sale on eBay (not by me) but they're kind of spendy. Note that he's selling two, but the price is for each. Good picture tho. http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item20b10852da Call all your local salvage yards and see what you can scare up. Also check car-part.com. Search for 1987, Toyota Truck (except T100 and Tundra), Wheel (Display w Image), select the area you want to search, specify how you want the results sorted, and enter your Zip Code. Click the Search button and select 14x5 (4x2) DRW from the list of pictures. That'll get you a list of wheels from 87 and 88 trucks. Repeat the search for 1989 which will get the newer ones. Either will work fine. Prices seem to range anywhere from $30 to $100 each. Maybe you'll luck out and find some close by or that can be shipped reasonably. Brad 84 Sunrader 180RD FtC CO P.S. Did you get shock mounting plates with your axle? Those are the plates that the U-bolts that go around the axle bolt up to and that the lower end of the shock absorbers connect to. The ones that are on your rig won't fit the new axle since its considerably thicker than the old one. They're hard to come by and if you didn't get them, you may need to have some fabricated. 4x4 off-road shops seem to have a pretty good handle on that. You'll also need to buy new U-bolts. Having them made by a 4x4 or spring shop seems to be the best way to get the right size.

Wow! That sounds like a great deal for a nice looking Sunrader. Every window and rooftop vent leaked on my '84 until I re-sealed them. The good new is that leaks are unlikely to cause serious structural damage on a Sunrader. Brad 84 Sunrader 180RD FtC CO