WME

I got nailed in a construction zone going into Rocky Mountain National Park. I pulled over just before I had to stop. I talked to the flagger and he held traffic and I backed up about 100 ft to a "flat" spot. Then started back up the hill. Made it to the top mountain in first gear. All this goes back to too much weight and not enough HP

It worth around $300, because its an Onan. If it was a Kohler you would have to pay some to take it.

Plan B...https://rvroadsandroutes.com/

The metal tube is standard muffler tubing. It is held on by hose clamps. Just remove it and go to your local auto parts. You may have to buy a piece a bit longer and cut to size. or maybe you will get lucky.

I know you dislike ATF, but change it again. Maybe clean fluid is flushing things out. The filter in the A43d is a bug screen and the small stuff goes right through. Did you do a linkage and neutral switch adjustment?

My bad I ran some numbers. a 20w panel and a 10 ah battery would be better. The 15w panel would be right at the edge

The fans are good, the panel is to small you going to under v the fans and they will run slow and hot. The 7w is only at high noon with no clouds. I'd use 10-12w. Perfect answer is a 15w panel and controller with a small AGM battery. https://www.amazon.com/ACOPOWER-Polycrystalline-Photovoltaic-Battery-Charging/dp/B07N854MW4/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=15%2Bwatt%2Bsolar%2Bpanel&qid=1565122354&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-7&th=1 Battery...https://www.walmart.com/ip/Interstate-12V-5Ah-12V-5Ah-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-This-is-an-AJC-Brand-Replacement/122436590 A thermostatic fan switch will turn off the fans when the refer isn't running https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-RV-Camper-Refrigerator-Cooling-Fan-Switch-Thermostat-DIY-Free-ship-Instruct/121719154712?hash=item1c5706e818:g:7XcAAOxy86RSUaF4 A less glorious answer is the fan switch and run the fans off the house battery. If the fans ran 24 straight they would only use 15AH. FWIW I run my fans this way and the low desert they will cycle on/off till way past 2:00 AM. With your proposed system your fans stop at sundown

Very good idea. I don't know about shipping and taxes, but something like this is what you need to simplify life. http://www.bestconverter.com/DLS-240-45-240-VAC-_p_391.html

Follow the shore power cord. The power panel has to be accessible for obvious reasons.

There were 2 factories. West Coast built Sunraders have wrap around and Mid West built Raders have flat windows.

The book says to adjust park linkage and neutral start switch before proceeding with advanced trouble shooting. There is a beautiful flow chart for the A340E transmission and a crummy 2 page "guide" for the A43D. Here's the guide...http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhaker/programi/toyota/Automatic%20Transmission/A43D/4generalt.pdf Also there is a pressure check. The pressure port is just below the O/D solenoid. Idle pressure in D 65-77 psi, full throttle stall pressure is 144-169 psi. In R the idle pressure is 100-117 psi and at stall it is 213-270 psi. Low pressure in R evaluation, " range circuit fluid leakage, rear clutch defective, Brake #3 defective or OD clutch defective". Sorry not much real help

Did the PM and flow chart make the trip?

The engine compartment was wider in the 89 models compared to the earlier PU. The V-6 3vz has 150hp @ 4800 rpm and 180 lb ft of torque @ 3400 rpm Plan B is to install a 2.7L 4 cylinder 3rz It has 150 hp @ 4800 rpm and 177 lb ft @ 4000 rpm. The T-100 PU is the donor of choice. The "problem" is the intake and exhaust switched sides, but that's still easier than a set of duals.

P.S. The top half of the AC cover comes off from the outside. The lower half is held on by 4 long screws/bolts from the inside. To replace the gasket these are what you need to remove. Gaskets are universal and cheap

From the way it looks so far, when your done you should be able to swap straight across for an Earthroamer.😀

Carefully remove a section of the keeper and compare it to this selection...https://www.pellandent.com/RV-Window-Seal. If you have the time lay the new one out in the sun for a couple of weeks, this will help preshrink it. Most commonly the keeper strip will gap where the ends meet or pull out at the corners. Being cheap I used some of the old preshrunk keeper from a big window to seal a smaller window. Worked great and after 2 years no gap. The newer stuff shrunk a bit and so I cut a filler strip and used a bit of glue on the ends to seal it.

This is a perpetual "rub the brass lamp" post here, installing a diesel engine into a Toyota motor home. MBZ 300D's (OM617), Toyota 2L and 3L diesels, Cummings 4BT, VW 1.9L TDI. There seem to be about 4 that were actually done. The GM 3.0L Vortec diesel and the FCM VM Mortori 3.0L are two of the modern diesel engines to consider if you win the lotto and must have a diesel Toyhouse.

Get your tool box ready and plan to head for your local "pull a Part" soon. In Sept GM is releasing a new 3L six cylinder diesel. 277HP and 460 LB Ft torque. Rated at 33 mpg hwy in a Silverado 1500 PU

I posted this before, but apparently search doesn't find it😜...https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20038531/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1 6 pages of pro/con.

The way the RV was built means NOWAY. Typically the floor is built first, then vinyl flooring, then carpet in the needed places. Then the walls are added right on top of the floor covering, so the carpet goes to the outside. Cut the old as close as you can, lay down the new stuff and if needed use 3/4" quarter round to neatly edge things.

Southern Ca is a Sunrader hot spot. Sell it as is. A WAG on $$ would be a nice running Rader would be in the $7000 range. A proper 1 ton axle install would cost $3000. A complete new engine installed would be $2500. So its worth $2000 as is. The possibilty of needing a complete new engine is very slim. $500 would fix most engine problems. SO that will make RV more valuable.

3 hand hold wheels used a tapered seat open ended lug nut. The 86 6 hole wheel used a flanged nut. What it is all about is the taper in the rim and tapered nut center the wheel. The 6 hole wheel is centered by the hub and the nuts just hold it on. Some of the tapered wheels are referred to as a coined wheel

When I got my Escaper I did a slow flush used 16 qt of fluid. The fluid looked like Mocha at the beginning. The upside for you is the transmission had 45K mi and recovered nicely and was running just fine when I sold it 25K later. I looked in the factory book, they refer to the pipes as "oil tubes" with no mention of function. Just don't dent or bend.

Get out your lug wrench and tighten up the lug nuts ASAP, Do not drive until this is done. Actual damage is usually just the studs and nuts. Your looking at $200-300 in repair costs. You have to remove the axle to replace the studs, lots of labor, the parts will be the least of your expenses. The shop that caused the problem should be responsible for the repairs. The damage is the wobbling rim will mangle the threads that it rubs against. This reduces the amount of good threads that the lug nut has, the clamping force on the rims is reduced and could result in more wobbles in the future. Where ever you go for the repair have the shop remove the wheels and YOU inspect the threads, a damaged thread is probably OK, but 3 or more is bad

The RV roof AC's use R-22 or R410 as the fluid. Its a sealed system and requires specialized equipment to "recharge" $$$ and usually not worth recharging an old unit. SO if its working use and enjoy, if it's not working replace. All the roof AC have a compressor and the main fail point. The start/run caps are a different thing and are easy to replace if they fail.