WME

Shoshoni WY. May 26-28, 28th Annual State Old-time fiddle contest. Y'all come

If your swaping a 4sp for a 5sp then a new clutch is only logical. The 5sp gives a quiter cruse and maybe an increase in MPG. The design of the faux duel rear axle casues it to eat rear axles. CostS??? DIY the good rear ends run 500-1000, add 1,000 for pro install. See the posts about "Sadie" she just had her rear axle upgraded.

Shorting the rear will reduce the weight on the rear AND add weight to the front axle. Narrowing would reduce weight on BOTH axles

"You can do it yes you can! ... you can do it yes you can! ... you can do it yes you can! Drive slow and you'll get there. Have fun. " Of course she will drive slow its a Toy Motorhome.. I've driven mine all over Co, Wy and MT. I have always gotten to where I wanted to go. Just take a bit longer than driving a car.

I lived in tents for 3-4 months at a time allover the far east, from winter in Hokkaido, Japan to the jungles in Thailand. My current idea of roughing it is having to watch B&W TV WME Proud owner of a broom closet, different strokes for different folks.... Peace

I removed my oven and installed a 3 burrner stove top. Mine was from a going out of bussiness sale and it has 3 seperate buner tops. I make coffe using a tea kettle and a Meleta filter system, so don't know about the Coleman thing.

Craigs list http://slo.craigslist.org/rvs/901919583.html

Look for a used 6pac and mount it flat bed like. Extend the sides down, install a few locking outside doors and presto mega storage. Don't even have to go inside for a beer just reach over and grap a cool one. The rear door would be a bit of a challange. No idea how a Sunrader is hooked up to the frame, but several of the companies, who rented RV's here , would change the truck out every 3 or 4 years. They would install a cargo box on the frame and you could find cheap cargo delivery trucks at the lot around the corner. So IT CAN BE DONE.

What you really want is a 4x4 Toy longbed pickup with a six-pac inbed camper. They are design to lift in and out easily as all the plumbing is in the camper. www.six-pac.com

You havent slept properly untill there is a bit of wind and you get rocked to sleep..... just like the real old days.

If it held for 500 mi you should be good to go....Don't screw with it. If you ever have the head off THEN fix it right. NEVER remove that spark plug again unless your going to fix it

If you have oil out to the end, you need to pull the bearings and repack them. Most likely you will need a new seal too.

Put the nuts back on untill they are flush with the end of the threads. Get a big punch and a bigger hammer. Give the hub a sharp wack on each side of each cone. NOTE if you do this with out the nuts on the stud you will NEVER find the cones when they pop lose.

Your orginal problem may be the lack of anti seize and not crossthresded. Many times the alumium will stick to the steel spark and you will pull out the threads. I think the techie word is galling.

This does not bode well for the wallet. The spark plug MUST be tight, its holding back 1000s of PSI when the engine is running. Shavings in the engine are BAD juju. Take off the cam cover and SLOWLY turn the engine over by hand until the bad cylinder has the piston at the top AND both valves are closed. Put it in 4th gear set the parking brake. Remove the spark plug and with a long thin air nozzle and air compressor stick it in the cylinder and blow. The air will swirl around the cylinder and MAY carry the shavings out the spark plug hole. A helicoil with the head on is iffy and you may not have enough head left to tap for the insert. Have a professional check it out if possible FWIW always use anti seize on spark plug threads when installed in an aluminum head. Good luck

Ypu need to strip the outside wall completely off. Use foil faced rigid foam. Cut it to fit perfectly in each nook and crannie. Rigid foam has a higher R valus that batt fiberglass of the same thickness, but cost more, Use Reflectix or Tyvek to wrap the outside in a leak proof manner then put the siding back on.

KYB # 343127 front, 344055 rear. About $ for 4. Monroe # 32258 front, 31000r rear. About $90 for 4

Go to the Forums home page and click on Yahoo Toyota Campers. When you get there click on files and look for the piece of equipment you need a manual for.

There usually isn't an RV manual, but seperate manuals for the things in the house. The Yahoo group site has most of the equipment manuals posted in the files section.

What does full timing have to do with propane????? Any way the stove/oven is an easy remove. Disconect the gas line. Use the correct cap on the gas line in the RV. Lift up the stove top and you should see 2-4 screws in the side/bottom of the stove top. Remove the screws and lift out the stove. Fill up the empty space with STUFF.

Are asking about redoing the inside or outside???

The right fix is the 1 ton axle. But if you just can't do it now the choices are 1. GOOD....New axles, bearings and seals... Also 10lbs more air in the inboard tires. 2. BETTER..New axles, etc. New single rear rim and tire combo. YOU MUST CHECK THE WEIGHT OF YOUR COACH ON THE REAR AXLE TO SEE IF THIS IS SAFE TO DO. This will make the axle safer to use, but you are still overloading it. 3. BEST 1 ton axle

WHAT HE SAID ONLY LOUDER

Change the thermostat and temp sender. Both are easy to do and cheap. Refill with just water. If it fixes the problem then change to antifreeze. If no fix head to a radiator shop for a check out

Just make a new "silicone gasket" and you should be good to go.