WME

You have two choices, Pay $1500 to have it wired or learn all about 12v RV systems and fix it yourself You should start with a basic RV maintenance book, a VOM and some made up jumper cables for a 12 volt battery. Remove all the fuses, take the battery and hook it up each thing one at a time and make sure the fixture, water pump, refer (if its 12v) all else work correctly. Then start following the wire back to a junction and see if the fixture still works. Keep doing this until at some point things stop working. Your problem is between the working and not working points. Rewire then keep going until it all works There isn't a magic wand we can wave to help you, so its up to you, spend money or learn. Learning is better because if there is another problem then you can fix it too, instead of paying more money

AH for you the ultimate answer, for the rest of us the questions still lingers about 15" rims.

I got a lot different numbers. 65mph = 3500 in 3rd and 2400 in OD. OD ratio in an 43D is .688. These are just the math numbers, actual numbers will be a bit higher due to torque converter slip. WME

The older Toys have the gear indicator in the steering column. If you could make yours small enough it would be good there too. How about a floor shift???

I installed my sender in the line that goes to the transmission cooler. That where the fluid is hottest. Others have dropped the pan and welded a bung low on the side.

Gerg, normally a very valid point. But with proper selection its not a proplem. 185x14 LT D range... 811 revs per mile 195/70X15 LT D range...810 revs per mile... 205/65X15 LT C range... 805 revs per mile ....also the weight capicity of a 15" C is the same as a 14" D, 1874lb

Sorry I just checked for Toyota 15" 5 bolt rims and there aren't any. So I said the only to go 15" would custom. But as you pointed out there other trucks that use the 5x4.5 bolt Pattern. Checking E-bay the Ford Ranger uses them and you can get a set of steel 15x6" 5 bolt rims for $200 The 195/70/15 load D tires are $88.00. So the 15" swap is a good possibility. There even higher rated 15" tires but I couldn't find the Revs per mile for them so I don't know what would happen to your speedo. You would just have to see if the front bearing hub will fit through the center hole on the Ford rims.

There is not a donor car/truck for the 15" rims. They would have to be custom ordered. They would be in the $125.00 ea range. So the 15" conversion would be expensive for just 300lb of extra tire capacity. Don't forget the truck is already overloaded.

To check the shackle bushings, you have to jack up the RV use jack stands under the frame and let the axle hang Wheels off the ground. The slowly jack up the axle until the springs release the pressure on the bushings. Then look for slack. You might even remove one of the shackle halves to look at the bushing DO NOT remove the bolt all the way, just remove an end plate. Count your spring leafs most Toys have 6 or so. If your springs have been re arched then extra leafs should have been added that makes the ride stiffer. You require so much spring pressure to make the RV sit level. It doesn't matter if its all spring or a combo of spring and airbag. At a given spring pressure the airbag is only a little smoother than a leaf spring set.

Haynes makes a better book. Both should have axle removal procedure. Its medium hard and you will have to take the axle assy to a machine shop to get the bearing pressed off the axle and the new one pressed on. The wide D range tire is a 15" so you would need new rims. I have no idea about $$ for a shop to do the rear bearings. Just ask around.

Most auto parts stores should have the rear bearings. Somewhere around $35 ea side. One thing to remember even though you will have a carry capacity of almost 700lbs based on the rear tires. The Toyota PU has a max gross weight of somewhere around 4000lb so the whole camper is already overweight, even if the tires aren't. This is why I keep harping on change the rear bearings. Some of the RV mfg were saying to change the rear axle bearings every 25,000mi. When you pack things keep the heavy stuff forward of the rear axle. This way the front gets to share some of the load. So think light, always.

If thats your weight you would be better off running a single rear wheel setup. Still change the bearings. Good 5 bolt 14" rims are cheap. New D load range tires and 65psi would be OK. Make sure you have a good spare cause there is no limp home mode with only 2 rear tires.. All this is of course MHO, yours may vary

If you have the 1 ton rear, you have the right stuff. BEWARE some of the early 1 ton axles have left handed lugs on the drivers side. NORMALLY these units have the 6 hand hole rims, the 3 hand hole rims USUALLY have normal threads. USE caution.

Check the rubber bushings in the rear springs. Bad ones let the springs and axle bang around a lot.

www.car-part.com Fill in the blanks and see what is around you. A search for a 90 Toyota PU 2wd 4cy auto turned up about 12.

Check the house battery for 12v+. The coach does not run off 110v (except the refer) all the lights and water pump are 12v. The converter takes the 110ac and makes it 12v. Some converters have a relay to switch from the 12v battery to 12v from 110v. Unhook the AC and the 12v batteries and check to see if your converter has a stuck/bad relay.

The tire shop may be doing you a big favor, sorry its not a good answer but thats the truth. Options going from good to very bad 1. One ton rear axle. 2. weigh your toy and see if the rear axle weight exceeds the carrying capacity of 15" tires A 195/70/15 LT has a carry capacity of 1984 lb per tire @ 65psi. So a rear axle of 3500 lb would give you some cargo capacity. 3. Weigh your Toy and see if the weight exceeds the capacity of a 185/14lt (1874 lb) So rear axle weight of 3300lb is OK. 4. Find another tire store and run 15 psi more in the inner tire. If you do 2,3,or 4 you should pull your rear axles and inspect them and change the axle bearings.

The only cams I know of for the 3vze are regrinds of the stock cam. No off the shelf cams. Most of the 4x4 folks swap in the 3.4L V-6 its stock 190 hp

The trannie has an altitude cutoff switch for the O/D. Usually cuts off around 4000 ft and cuts on around 3500 ft

I think there is a glitch in the u-joint flange and maybe the shock placement.. Cant remember exactly. Like maybe the rear flange can be redrilled or just changed. The shock thing was some of the older Toys had both shocks on the same side of the axle and the later units has a shock in the front on one side and the back on the other

The V-6s have a lockup converter so they don't suffer from the heat problem. I live at 6000ft so my O/D has never worked and I don't miss it. Think of things this way. In 3rd gear the automatic has a 1:1 ratio. In the billion or so of the older Toy trucks with a 4 sp, 4th is also a 1:1 ratio. Those trucks have done just fine running in 4th gear for 200,000-300,000 mi at 65-70 mph

Correct.. but don't forget you have 4 tires on the back. So you max rear tire load is over 7000lb. Of course your axle and brakes can't deal with that much weight. Also that is why us po'folk with the 5/6 lug combo RVs can safely limp into the next town, in the event of a flat rear tire, with only 3 good tires on the rear.

Doug Get a tarp on it to give it a chance to start drying out.

Changing the rear axle ratio is like add a bunch of hp. A 4:56 with a stick and a 4:88 with an auto. Change the rear axle and add a cam that's about it. The next power increase would be a bigger engine transplant. The O/D ratio is just to much for a heavy RV. Your cruse rpm should be between the torque peak and the hp peak. Now as geared your at the torque peak. OLD hot rod saying torque is how fast you accelerate and hp is how fast you go

Rebuild vs overhaul. Rebuild.... new head, cam and valves, new OS pistons and rings, new rod and main bearings. The block needs to be bored over sized for the new piston. Overhauled.. Have the head checked for straightness, have the valves ground. With the OHC set up is very iffy to plane the head to make it straight. You would have to hone the block and install new stock sized rings, new rod and main bearings. Its sorta of a pain but with a friend you can do a hillbilly overhaul on your engine with the block in the truck. New rings and rod bearings only can't change the main bearings. If you take the block out then you can do mains too. Either way rebuild or overhaul you will need a new water pump, oil pump and a timing chain set. FWIW I've done the hillbilly in the truck overhaul on 2 engines and it work out just fine, Ive also rebuilt engines that turned out fine, IF you can find a good machine shop to do the block correctly. Sloppy machine work when you are rebuilding is much worse than doing a hillbilly overhaul