WME

Off road diesel is dyed RED, a very persistent red. All the cop has to do is draw a fuel sample and if they see red, your toast. If your making home brew fuel just don't dye it red. In WY off road fuel is ultra low sulfur

Looks like some one took a front sway bar and got a crafty and installed it on the rear axle

Me too, I like, I make

Google and find the GVWR for just the Toyota P/U. See how close your are. Removing the foolies and replacing them with single is good for the axle and bearings, but the reduced axle width makes for a tippier ride. You choose.

Back to the beginning..... EDM was discussed along with a video.... Any way Electrical Discharge Machining.

Back to the beginning, this months HotRod magazine has a long article about EDM on broken bolts

Give it a real tune up. Most of the Toy homes will do 70 if given a LONG flat road. Most of the Toys "cruise" at 55-60 mph. The max weight for most of the Toys are around 6200 lbs, what does your critter weigh? Add the weight of the sleds and see if it would still be OK weight wise.

A used motor home is only as good as the P/Os maintenance. Meaning there are no bad MHs only bad owners who did not take care of the expected leaks or just cobble up a bunch of wiring to run something odd and the wiring has failed and you now have a mess to fix. That being said the Sunraders and Winnebagos are known names and will be easier to resell. Ya know you could keep the Toy and enjoy camping around the south.

In the south dash ac, roof ac, generater are important. Although the generator may not be so much if the buyer wants to camp at a KOA. But most of us like to run the roof ac while eating lunch.

Not photoshopped. Go to www.expedition portal. Lots of serious back road stuff.

www.energysuspension.com

http://www.syncspeedy.com/images/chinook-tacoma-combo-v1.jpg Does this help?

Just glow it 2x on cold mornings.

I had on going vent line problems, finally I took a roll of 1/2" copper tubing and made most of the vent line out of that, with just 6" or so of rubber hose at each end. The copper tubing won't sag and the soft stuff can be bent where needed.

Just redo the back of the chair in a contrasting material. That way it will look like it was designed that way

I see a welder in your near future.

Actually I was thinking a couple of these on the wall and a fold down leg would make a stable table. A set outside would make an easy table for a small BBQ.

The solid state one you have is basically diodes, easy to check with an ohm meter. The relay one will provide a higher V to the batteries when its new. As the contacts age they can loose more V. A diode will drop .7v for its life span.

BINGO... Also the little box on the firewall with 1 wire is a self reset circuit breaker.

The older design is series like you said. The give away is the insulating block on each of the glow plugs. Another weirdness of the engine was the throttle butterfly, the designers couldn't get the engine to part throttle cruise smoothly so they modulated the fuel pump with intake vacuum. To help mine out the entire throttle linkage was converted to Heim joints or ball joints, nice to know jet engine mechanics. In reality, driving in So Cal, the car had two speeds WOT or idle. The cruise/top speed was 72 mph

I bought the car for $1600.00 drove it for almost 20 years and then sold it for $14,000. That was 18 years ago and some of the details have slipped by. But I do seem to remember a flat strap connecting the glow plugs. The 180 was a OHV pushrod engine, the 190 was an OHC engine Didn't mean to start a food fight.

Not the best design for sure, but the glow plugs went 275K until the engine broke the crankshaft. Got a long block from Frigiking. They used a bazillion of them to power trailer refer units. P.S. The crank broke on the #3 bearing and I drove it home for 20 mi that way. Turned out that the crank was defective from the factory, it had a bubble the size of a nickel at the #3 bearing. MBZ said sorry no warranty!! Your OME pictures sure are familiar.

My old VW Rabbit diesel would get hard to start when really cold. I just glowed it twice and the extra heat made the difference. My 58 MBZ 180 D had 5 glow plugs 4 in the engine and 1 in the dash, no auto glow. You just twisted the start lever to the glow position and waited until the plug in the dash was nice and red, then twist the lever further and cranked the engine.

The cab gets cold in winter time use. I cut a piece of Reflectix to go between the matress and the cab over. So no more cold butt in the middle of the night.

Buy a rebuilt head, drive what you got, remove head and find a machine shop that has EDM capabilities. Your choice!