WME

Not much help from me. I went in to the park at Granby and came out at Estes. Made it over the pass OK. Just a bit slow over the top, 1st gear and all that.

Try 1200lbs of Poland China pig vs a mid 70s Chevy Chevette

Well the first question is, Does what you have work for you now??? Or do you NEED the extra capacity of 2 6v monsters?

I have AGMs inside and have no outgassing problems. Typically AGM only outgas when badly overcharged. There are gas proof battery boxes, they are designed to vent through a 2" or so vent hose. The main point I was headed for is that 2 6v batteries will take 2x as long to charge as what you have now.

If I remember correctly a 6332 has a charge rate of around 3 amps. How many AH is your current battery and what would be the AH of your new batteries

Forget about China stuff. You need Cibie, Hella, or Bosch E-spec lights. They have precision lens

Use the test light and remove the fuses 1 at a time. Start with the new horn fuse.

Timbren.com

Without a bunch of details...... Lets say your battery is 100 ah and your using 50 ah a night powering the CPAP. That means you need more than 50ah to recharge things. So a 100w panel would do about 7 amps x 10 hours of sunlight would get you 70ah. Right!! Ain't never gonna happen. You MIGHT get 10 hours of good light on the equator, but not likely here. Thumb nail numbers would be around 1/2 rated amps for 6-8 hr. So your needing a 175w + setup to keep your CPAP happy. To fall on the safe side of things with my wife's CPAP I have a 210ah battery bank and a 200w panel.

Heres a few http://www.thefind.com/cars/info-toyota-pickup-grill-guard

That's Gail's newest referb.

Turn back on your blower and get inside. Pull off about 3 sheets toilet paper. Move it near possible leaks and see what it does. Foam the leak and see what the tp does

Make up some soapy water, spray it on all the joints/couplings in the air lines. Also the filler valve. Look for bubbles Your problem may be a simple leak.

Ain't is grand when every thing works like its supposed too.

Well do some more checking and see if there is a fitting on the line from the water tank to the pump. If there is that is were you add the antifreeze into the system.

For several years I used bags of foam peanuts to even out the low spots on the roof.

Get a heater bypass winterization kit and a pump converter kit. Then all you will need it 2 gallon of rv antifreeze. With out these then you may need as much 10 gallons of antifreeze. Google rv winterization and follow the steps. In a mild climate you may try just using a air compressor to blow out the lines and drain the heater.

This helps maintain a negitive pressure in your holding tanks. No moving parts. http://360productsinc.com/site/home Driving with an open window is a major no/no. I know we all do it, but it makes for low pressure in the RV and it will suck in all the smells from your tanks if there is the slightest leak and dust from the outside. The extracter vent caps (both kinds) may may enough negitive pressure in thr tank to overcome the open window. The Camco vents work great on my current RV.

I used the underlayment wood when I redid the floor in my Escaper. The sheets I bought had one good side and 2 more plys than "normal" plywood. I sorta built a Sunrader floor. I stripped out the carpet. Then glued down a 1/2" foil faced foam sheet. Then glued and screwed the underlayment over that. Then vinyl flooring. A lot quieter, warmer and way stiff. Surprisingly the lower doors worked with out trimming. I lost less than 1" of headroom

Ya I had one of the convection heaters in a little Jayco Jaywren. Cool little camper, 8.00x10 tires. I wish some one still made these heaters, perfect for cool nights without the jet ramp sound effects.

Red dot??????????

Well in 0 deg weather mine has a 20% run time, at -20 its 50%. I have 200 AH of batteries and they are mounted INSIDE so no problem. But some body with a 70AH battery at 0 just needs to be aware of their battery usage. You wake cold and with a dead battery, because your voltage got to low to trip the sail switch so the heater fan just stayed on until the battery was totally dead.

Well looks like I guessed close. I use a pint of 2c oil per 10 gal of JP. The basic fuel mix was 60% JP 40% diesel or something close to that. This was way before there was even low sulfur fuel, much less ultra low sulfur. Fuel was $1 a gallon so I was saving like $10 a tank, seems to be a lot of work in view of todays prices. But hey I was making $195 a month. Taco Bell tacos were 4 for a buck so thats 10 meals. A tank of fuel lasted about a month if I was just communting

The refer will work fine, just allow for it to cool down and you may have to readjust the thermostat a bit. RV antifreeze or low temp washer fluid work OK just remember to pour a big glug in the tank before first use. This is to help keep the dump valve from freezing. The rv heater is fairly efficient as far as propane use, but they are battery hogs. I've camped at temps below 0, and things were fine as long as you know what your getting to.

When I had my 180D I was in the USAF. The car ran on a mix of JP and Diesel. The procedure was to drain a gallon or so of fuel of each tank on a plane to check for contaminants. After checking it was poured in the Contaminated Fuel Bowser along with any engine oil draining's then spread over dirt roads to keep the dust down. So much for the good old days. I was saving the environment by keeping the JP out of it.