REALLYRURAL

So I spent the entirety of this day alone bolting this trans to the engine. If you are alone there is no room for error and one needs to firmly strap the trans to the jack so you can the front/forward and side to side controls a cheap trans jack provides. I used another jack to move the engine back and forth. It was not any fun but at the end of the day I have the trans bolted to the engine and have the trans jack removed with the tail end setting on blocks awaiting the install of the trans mounts. Every bolt can be accessed by hand and then tightened with extensions and a unaversul I lost a good friend https://www.penbaypilot.com/article/dale-e-lindsey-service/139174 I had him in mind while working on this project today.

I replace the wood in these Toy Homes with plastic where ever I can. Same dimensions and can be machined, tapped and sawed to precision dimensions without a huge investment in tools. I use a marine adhesive from Home Depot to put anything that needs to be permanently put together. I have previously put everything together with 316 stainless screws. I am now using aluminum rivets everywhere I can on my current project a 1991 winnebago warrior . Send along some more pictures. You have bought a project that can provide a lot of enjoyment and you may be able to stretch the repairs out over a large period of time Welcome.

Nice job; I am working on my second Toy Home it is a 1991 Warrior so it is nice to see the pictures. Did you have to rebuild the Cab Overhead? Welcome to Maine!!!! We have two sayings here for newcomers to Maine: 1. If it is free it is for ME. 2. It does not take much money to move here. But you will never make enough to move away..... I think you can fit a couple more Children in there. What a fun and worthwhile project. Welcome..

Is yours a two wire or a four wire. I just scrapped a 1993 T100. It had a 4 wire o2 sensor so I saved it as my understanding of o2 sensors is that the difference between a 2 wire and a 4 wire is that the 4 wire has a a heater. Except for the extra wires it is no different looking than the o2 sensor on my 1988 with the 22re. Same bolt pattern. I saved it out of interest in exactly what it does. I sold the convertor from the T100 for 180 bucks. Why are you asking Jed?

So here is the repair manual for the A340/f/h:http://kai.supramania.com/Supra/A340 Series Repair Manual (RM216).pdf This is not similar to the A43D and does not share its problems. The problem with this a340E is that it was towed and the front planetary gear is splined to the output shaft. That planetary gear turns the frontplanetary ring gear which slips into the clutch spacers and turns them within the plates. See pages at110 thru at112 of the repair manual. Here is a nice tear down video that has been very helpful:

So here is a picture of the trans mostly put back together. I am not convinced that I have got this done properly so it will be torn down again and put back together. Maybe, I can post something that someone needs to know on the next attempt. Any thoughts? What should I present on the tear down and rebuild? What do you want to see?

Well you are putting an emergency tow out there. If your doing anything over getting to the next parking lot. Drop the rear end of the driveshaft and use a coathanger to hold it up.

WME is correct. The only thing connected directly to the output shaft is the front pack and I may have been able to flush/add lucas and mess with it to keep it working, as I did to drive it home. However, If this section was not replaced I would be dealing with it forever. The only reason I have not just purchased another transmission is that no one could explain to me what might be wrong with this one. WME said 'A thought from my deep, dark past as a no budget hot rodder. We used to over fill an automatic when we flat towed to and from the races. Do you think there would be enough splash lube to save the front pack in an emergency tow??' I would not tow anything with this transmission anymore than needed to get it to a safe place. If you can run the engine then tow it anywhere. The pictures show around a hundred miles of being dragged around on a flat tow. It did not need to happen.

So I did the autopsy on the 1991s transmission today. It turns out the answer to the question of what gets damaged when you flat tow a vehicle with automatic transmission is that the parts that are hooked to the output shaft. In the A340 series has the forward/direct clutch package locked onto the out put shaft. It is the only section of the trans that turns when flat towed. This sections turns without any lubrication and in this case just got so hot it turned the metal blue and caramelized the transmission fluid. Since everything is extremely overheated and glazed the plates and disks just slide by each other and all forward movement is lost. I found nothing else that looked amiss in the transmission except this section that is hooked to the forward end of the tail shaft.

So I now have the trans out of the the donor T100 ( I call it Rusty Blue) and the Trans out of my 1991. In addition I have stripped use full parts and the computer out of Rusty Blue. I was going to drop it off at the scrap yard first thing this morning but it still has parts that are desirable. I am thinking about that 130 dollar pump in the fuel tank. The differences in the transmissions. So once I got Rusty Blues transmission out I cleaned the id plate and it is a 30-40 LE which is the same id that plate that is on my 91. It has a different deeper base, the dipstick is 2 inches shorter on Rusty and they both have the speed sensor. The 1991 also has a speedometer cable while rusty does not. Rusty Blues output shaft is much shorter than the 91 so I need to swap those out . Bolt patterns seem the same at this time the neutral safety switches are very different and the computers have the same numbers. Rusty has a sensor on the output side of the trans cooler close to the transmission. I suspect this sensor is located elsewhere on the 91 . I need to clean the outsides and drain both of these before I can start pulling these apart.

So after having Walter (Walter is my neighbor and has a ramptruck the next size up from mine) drop the 1991 in my drive I jacked it up and pulled the pan off the transmission. It has 61000 miles on it and I did not find anything in the pan or on the magnets that was of any concern. I pulled the three servos then tested them with power and pressure and they worked perfectly. A friend has offered me an entire T100 4wd with 144,500 on it for 150 bucks. This has a blown head gasket. The T100 4wd has the A340F which is from what i have found is convertible back and forth. Different output shafts require a gut and put back together. It is possible to convert the 340e to a 340 F and vice versa. However, how the valve bodies set up might be different. I am hoping to travel all over the planet with this Rig so getting the transmission right at this point is really important to me.

So the 1991 Toyhome I have been working on for two plus years came together enough last week to actually insure register and start some small road trips with. The transmission immediately started slipping, jumping in and out of gear and after getting gas two miles from home it just stopped moving except for reverse. A 75 buck tow later I have it back in the driveway. After a few days of research I have decided to pull the transmission and do an autopsy on it. Based upon the autopsy I will either rebuild it myself or find other options. The Back Story. The trans was slipping when I purchased it so I flushed it in the the parking lot of an auto parts store with 5 gallons of fluid. It then stopped slipping and the hundred miles to home went fine with a mix of interstate, two lane highway and local roads. I did not baby it. The cruise control worked perfect (much different than my 88 with the 22re) and the thing had plenty of power. Two years later I had rebuilt the thing to the point it could go down the road again. So I tossed the plate from 1988 on it and took it for a hundred mile run. The thing ran down the road perfect.... Not a hint of a transmission problem or anything else going wrong. This lead me to spend the last month working on this project without any thoughts of transmission problems. Back to the present . It has a great reverse but no forward whatsoever. If I could find it the emoji with the head banging the wall would be here... So I have spent the last four days looking into the A340E, have learned many things, seen many videos, pictures, pdfs, and have formed the opinion that there is not real danger in the actual dismantling of an A340E once it is on the bench (it has nothing spring loaded or pre loaded to surprised. Has a bunch of cir clips).. . The real danger lies in pulling the trans in your/my Backyard on the ground. I have spent today setting up for dropping the trans out the bottom uneventfully. Hope fully. So I am setting up to drop the trans and dissect in a way that I can share what is learned about the process. If anyone here has dropped one of these before any input you can provide might be a godsend.

You may have the rig for the spare underneath already. JJRBUS is a great illustration. The spare tire thing may be located in different places. I have one under my 1988 toyhome but the 1991 does not have one. My 1988 had a piece fence-post welded to the top of the reese hitch that held the spare tire as seen in the first picture taken a few days ago.. After seeing your post I went to take some more pictures... The thing was gone. It had vibrated so much that it finally busted off and parted company. OOPS. That said carrying a spare is a problem. I have seen many rvs loose the entire back end with a tire and rim hanging like yours. In the future my tool kit will include some tire irons and just a tire with no rim so when and If I have a failure I can either sort it out myself or have the exact tire that is needed.

I ran my 1988 over the scales in October 2013 and it weighed 8,200 pounds. Had ladders on the roof and every tool I could pack into it for a winter in Florida. My gas mileage for the entire trip (5000 miles) was reduced to around 12 mpg. Otherwise I get 15 to 18 mpg on the flat roads and this rig has always averaged 15+ on 5 to 10 thousand mile trips. The previous owner kept a detailed log of every expense over 50k plus miles and over her ownership it averaged 15.7 mpg... I have had to do a few panic stops over the 50k plus miles I have driven my rig and learned the lesson early that this rig is not in any hurry. Keep all kinds of space in front of you and pay attention. Welcome. Post some pics of your rig. We like to look them over.

Here is an interesting one located in Maine. It has three axles... https://maine.craigslist.org/rvs/d/rollinsford-toyota-heritage-1980-vintage/7183658510.html Toyota Heritage 1980 Vintage - $2,000 (Berwick) image 4 of 7 © craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap (google map) 1980 Toyota Heritage condition: fair cylinders: 4 cylinders drive: fwd fuel: gas odometer: 82705 paint color: white rv type: class C transmission: manual This genuine one of a kind 1980 Toyota Heritage RV is a fixer-upper. It’s a perfect project for someone looking to hit the open road in the future or possible tiny house project/COVID project. It was running last year but when battery was recharged this spring, the engine did not turn over, may just need fresh fuel. Part of the roof would need to be repaired but most of the exterior needs are merely superficial. It has been tarped for the last 2 winters, preventing further roof damage. This gem needs a bit of work, but the foundation is good. When considering a classic style, such as this, the possibilities are nearly endless. With a bit of work, an option like this can be returned to its former glory providing an RV unlike most that you see on the road. The engine is the famous Toyota R20 engine with inline 4 cylinder and manual transmission. It has a newer gas refrigerator, the original gas heater and electric stove. Sleeps 4, 2 in overcab bunk and 2 on a dining table/bed conversion setup. $2000. Please email for interest.

In my 1988 I installed an Origo marine canister alcohol single burner stove with an electric coil and a convection/microwave that I love. 230.00 from camping world. The alcohol for the stove is a just excess from my contractor business and when I have the generator running I cook something on the stove to put a load on it. Most of the time I will cook outside on either an electric single burner or on a small butane stove. The butane stove is perfect for omelets. Two burner cook top with the convection microwave under neath is my preference and what I am going with on the 91 I am currently restoring.

Well you could have saved the cabinets. Get a gallon of lemon scented lysol and hose the entire interior. A friend told me the one time he stuck his nose in my 1988 Toyhome this will be nice once you get the smell out. I hosed it down with lysol and he was spot on. It smelt like progress! Is your frame work aluminum ? o If you can post some pictures of how your rig is put together I/we might be able to give better options on your rebuild. I rebuilt the front section of my 1988 with wainscoting from Home Depot, Rebuilding a 200 year old Cape in Friendship Maine at the moment. I do have a different approach to your type of rebuild now.

There are still a lot of them out there. I see lots of them in Maine with California plates. Most are in need of restoration. Some look nice but they are just shells. However, if you pick one up for the right price just go have some fun with it.

I whole hardheartedly agree with this... Peel and stick in something flexible just tears itself apart..

Most any rv shop can get you one. I think they are a standard size. come to maine you can have the one in my pile of rv stuff. replacements are around 150..

Thanks Jed. I reread my post and which was trying to encourage Blake and ended up talking about my projects.. So Blake... Having rebuilt an aluminum shell 88 Itasca 8 years ago I believe your instincts are spot on. For your situation I would pull everything out of the inside. once you see how these were/are put together you will see the wisdom of just getting everything out of your way. With the proper power tools and a hundred dollars of cutting tools anyone could strip the inside of any RV. Everything was put in after the walls and roof. Carefully pull everything out and you can remove every piece of stinking carpet. If you do not get every piece of carpet it is like a yeast starter for mold. If you want to do it in stages the rebuild the cab overhead pull the bathroom and rebuild it from the inside then drive the wheels off it. Please take a good look at your electrical system. It is very easy to get lit up with an RV. Bad grounds... Reversed neutral... Hot to frame.. An older rig is not only going to have some wiring issues. It will have a subscription... Always touch an RV with the back of your hand. This will repel rather than make impossible to let go. TTAFN Dale

Same Camper today.

Welcome to the club. My 1988 needed a major rebuild of the forward and aft end when I purchased it in 2012. Have traveled extensively with it since. 4 winters in Florida two years in Rhode Island for work and I travel with it all the time. I even take it to job sites so I can have the amenities of home. Have been picking away at a 1991 Warrior that I at an insurance auction for the last two years. The 1991 had a huge pine tree fall on it and pretty much destroyed have the body. I have rebuilt most of it. I have been working on it full time for a month now and it is getting close. Just tore the bath room out today. Hope to be putting back together later today. This was a pretty good looking camper and someone loved it before the tree took it out. However, it was extensively rotted everywhere. It is getting close after two years and around 2500 in materials and hundreds of hours. good luck

The siding looks salvageable if you pull it back carefully. The framework is bent and it is less work to rebuild the frame with new than to try and straighten it..

Welcome to the Forum. I am currently on my second toyhome rebuild. The first is an 1988 that I had to rebuild the cab overhead and the rear wall. It has since taken me up and down the east coast from the Canada border to middle of Florida. I have in the eight years I have owned it I have actually lived in it full time 3 and a half to 4 years while working away from home or just out on an adventure. It now has 153 thousand miles needs a center bearing and rear end seal but that is it. Once those two things are done and a valve adjust I would not hesitate to head out on a many thousand mile journey. I have a full coverage policy from State Farm (with a stated value of 10,000.00) that includes towing. Cost of the policy is just under 400 per year. I blew a head gasket and incurred 750 dollars in towing and upon submitting the bill to my Agent i was fully reimbursed. The Second toyhome is a 1991 toyhome that was purchase from an insurance auction. It had a pine tree fall on it during a storm and i call it the Tramper (trashed camper). I have been tinkering with this one for the last two years and have had to rebuild both sidewalls and the cab overhead and a new roof. Engineering as I go. I am on the second rebuild of the passenger side wall and decided to use 3/4 plywood for multitude of reasons. The roof I am constructing to be able to hold a load and my full weight in certain sections. It is finally coming together and I am pushing this project over many others at this time and hoping for initial completion in a month. Your project is more like my first project. I found rebuilding from the inside easy with just basic skills and tools needed. I left the ac unit for the first couple of years then pulled it off and installed a vent and a fantastic fan. The ac unit weighs to much for what it provides (my opinion) and the weight of it is in the wrong place. That weight , gravity and the rigors of the road are more than any rv roof can stand (have been thinking rv manufacturers put them there so the rv has a limited lifetime). There are other ways to cool an rv. When I rebuilt the interior of the 1988 I used thin tongue and groove planks from Home Depot. Gluing and screwing as I went. This made it easy to make a composite of the old skin foam and the planks that has lasted eight years and has stood up very well. I did remove the front window and the clearance lights as I they were holes that were hard to keep the rain out at 70 mph. I am making use of pop rivets and flooring / decking screws to put the 1991 together. I have also pitched the roof of the 91 from the center up one inch so the roof will not puddle. i have added aluminum extrusions to the roof for strength and secure anchor points for future projects (solar panels, ladder rack kayaks, ect). While you have it apart check all your electrical connections and make sure you do not put any fasteners through the wiring in the rebuild. In the 1988 I removed the old circuit breakers and installed a small sub panel with more breakers. In the 1991 will do this also but the breakers will all be arc fault breakers and the twelve volt will go through go through a marine twelve volt breaker panel. (if you get any tingles when touching the rv when it is plugged in you need to address that issue immediately as stray current and bad grounds can and will shorten your whole camping experience).... When I rebuilt the 1988 I trolled this forum extensively without having to log in or add any content and it was an unbelievable resource. If only to see if what I had been thinking was off base or had been tried before. I am grateful to everyone who has taken the time to add their experiences here and am hoping to return the favor by just getting up to speed with posting skills. One thing I found is that the whole interior is removable. Rebuilding a Toyhome is a whole series of tiny projects. Every hole drilled or screw placed was for me fully thought out before making the move. Once your done you are off on an adventure in a rig that inspires curiosity among curious people wherever you travel. Best of Luck. Dale