REALLYRURAL

When I picked this up at the salvage yard the transmission was slipping in forward as it had been towed in neutral from where the tree fell on it to the auction then from the auction to the salvage yard. Towing in neutral cooks the forward clutch pack as it has no lubrication and this clutch pack is the only section that always turns with the output shaft (more on that later). I flushed the transmission and added some Lucas to it and got it working again (it may well have kept working if I had driven it every day after. But it was parked for over two years before put back on the road}. Upon getting it home I tore it apart to inspect and assess just what I had gotten what myself into. AC unit was trashed, I cut the roof just about 2 feet forward of the bathroom, I still find pieces of the broken windows, door frame badly bent, .. Turns out what had been a nice looking Toyhome (61 thousand miles) that had been cared for and just had an insurance claim and been through that process. It had just as much rot behind that vinyl wallpaper as any of these you find. The overhead had extensive rot and needed a rebuild even before the tree fell on it. The rear wall in the bathroom was the same. Leaks around the openings in the ceiling had compromised the wood in that area. Before the tree fell this rig was a nice looking rig that anyone who did not know to scratch the surface would be really excited to purchase. The systems all worked, super clean, maintenance records, new tires, no rust it had everything one could want and would have gone a few more years before the rot really got the best of it. Point is that any 20 year old camper is going to have those types of issues. The original owners purchased it to go camping and did not know how water gets in through every nook, cranny and screw hole. After tearing it apart I went looking for new windows and started rebuilding the skeleton. The skeleton is aluminum extrusion 3/4x2. I found that Tractor supply in their junk pile has a constant need to dispose of 3/4 x 2 steel extrusion and will give me all I want (something is shipped in the framework). I lucked out and found some used windows at a place in Chelsea Maine that had just opened as a new and used RV supply. 175 bucks for the windows. More later.....

Been spending time going through 10 plus years of Digital Photos of various projects I have done. The 1991/1992 Warrior while still a work in progress is well worth sharing with others. A few pictures to start with then I will add more with some commentary.. When I purchased the 1991 it had just come from an Insurance auction. It had been declared a total loss from an encounter with a pine tree. There was a branch 5 inches around driven through the floor just missing the fuel tank. It had staked the rig to the ground and someone had used a chainsaw to free it from the ground so it could be towed away.

I rebuilt this 1991. For exterior and roof I used 1/4 thick 4x8 sheets of PVC and glued together with 3M 5200. I lapped the seams with 1/8 fiberglass bathroom panels on the roof. Two years and 10000 plus miles the roof has held up well. I have one minor leak in a seam just need some weather to clean and seal with 5200. If I was going to do another RV I would put more camber in the roof maybe 2 inches higher in the center. Support it with strips of 5/4 decking (fore and aft) cut to 2inches in the center then every foot side to side to the edges. Then cut foam to fit between them glue it down 3m 5200. Make up a long sanding / fairing board to sand the new contour onto the foam then use the Pvc sheets on the roof. Any holes through the roof (AC ,vents) I would pick up with pvc pads so everything is mounted a half in higher than the roof. My first attempt at this roof was with luan plywood. A small amount of water and It was a mess. I ripped it out rethought my design and went with the PVC. Pvc is worth the expense. It is very easy to work with and glues up nicely.

I am not supporting this in any way just passing it along. They are more creative than someone flying a sign in a Walmart parking lot. https://waldo.villagesoup.com/2021/11/30/aime-asks-for-community-support-of-its-betty-the-artvan/ https://www.alphalibra.com/betty-the-artvan https://hi-in.facebook.com/waldocountyme/posts/1061311264710563 From a bad decision to ‘Betty The Brilliant ArtVan’ https://www.penbaypilot.com/article/bad-decision-betty-brilliant-artvan/154935

AW is used acrossed many manufactors. Same internals different bell and tailshafts (4wd can be converted to 2wd and vice versa).Pulled parts from a 4 wd a340 to get my trans working and when I got to Florida I pulled the trans again and replaced the forward assemblies with internals from a turbo charged lexus rated for 5oo horsepower. Got the low mileage trans for a hundred bucks as I was just using it for parts and no warranty. If you are slipping in forward gears It is a fairly easy repair. In my mind. Then again people tell me I am out of my mind.

jjrbus I like your staging for working on the front end of the rv. It certainly distributes the weight and forces in an appropriate way. I use saw horses on either side with staging planks. I will do something along the lines of what your doing in the future. Could you do a thread about how your staging works? Did you put leds for the cabover lights. I do not run the cabover lights as holes in that area when driving will at some point leak.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-Marine-10-fl-oz-Fast-Cure-Adhesive-Sealant-2016891/206156418 I use Loctite Marine Adhesive to put most things rv related together. You do not need the fast cure the regular stuff cures in 24 hours also.

When rebuilding my 1991 I used a fiberglass panel from Home Depot. Inexpensive solution and no worries about a leaking window. On my 1988 toyhome I used plywood first and replaced it a few years later with 1/2 inch pvc board.

I just spent a weekend riding an excavator repairing my 4000 plus foot long camproad and took the time to make two camp sites along the road. It is on a lake and surrounded by 175 acres that are forever wild. It is secluded but only minutes from anything. If you are in the area Members here are welcome to a site on a first come first serve basis. Hope to see you soon. Contact me when in the area.

I used Dayco kit number WP154K1B came with all parts needed 175.00. Purchased from CarQuest Rockland Maine. Replacing the timing belt on my 91 was a very easy and satisfying job compared to other timing belt jobs I have done. The upper Idler pully was a bear. Have to loosen the fuel line and used 1/4 socket set and extensions along with a cheap extension magnet to get the socket on the bolts. But all in all if you have enough confidence to change an alternator or radiator the timing belt is within your wheelhouse Pull the radiator and spark plugs.

I have used exculsiviy Locktite Marine Adhesive that I purchase from Home Depot on my 1991 that was destroyed by a pine tree. f It works well on any product. I used pvc on the exterier walls, roof, some interior walls, and used it to make fillets joining panels together. I used Frp panels to rebuild the bathroom walls and used this exclusively. I just cut out a section to install an ac unit and the adhesive held it was the foam or Plywood that failed when I did a destructive test to see how it was working. It is second best to 3m 52 hundred that will glue anything and 10 bucks a tube cheaper.j I have 8 thousand miles on my rig using this to glue everything together and have not hadno anything fail.j If you want to take it apart again that may present the problem. It has taken the full sun, heat changes , north/south, and 80 miles and hour and not failed. It remains flexible/rubber. Meaning it does not sand fine but it is machinable and bondo and epoxies stick to it and then you can go for a finer finish on those products. It is the most reasonably priced product that sticks everything a toyhome needs I can find. If you want to spend a whole lot more there are amazing products available just not affordable.

So I was able to take my ToyHome for an Epic 5000 mile trip since February. Having spent two plus years putting something that was destroyed by a huge pine tree back together. I have spent considerable time trying to figure out what goes where and spending some time living with and using this rig. Where do I actually spend time in the rig (I installed a comfy leather office chair and the cat took it as her own and I end up sitting on the couch.) The couch is not that comfortable and needs a rebuild with a comfy foam. Lots of things to figure out as it go. Lots of things to work on on an old camper but today I had Epiphany/AHHAAA moment when things came together. I need to tow a trailer full of tools and ladder to a job site tomorrow and my only option at the moment is the ToyHome. I had placed an aluminum box on the bumper supported by the reese hitch and traveled extensively with it since February. I liked the box but it took away my ability to tow anything and I really missed my Motorcycles throughout my trip. So today I went to Walmart and purchased and extension and height add on. That allowed me to keep the Aluminum box permanently and haul a trailer. I had been looking at the Aluminum box as an either or thing up until now. Since it was now permanent and the temperature was 93 degrees inside the rig.... My thoughts turned to A/C... Having a spare ac unit I took out my trusty tape measure and spent a few hours contemplating my next move. Since nothing in the back wall of the rigs is structural I ended up carving a new hole through the back of the rig and support the unit on the top of the box. From the inside it looks kinda like it belongs there and the ac unit is really cooling things down. I have a larger unit and may install that to have more punch and turn my rv into a walkin cooler. I do hate installing more weight behind the rear wheels but since the box is empty at the moment I will concentrate on how the trailer is loaded for long trips and keep light things in the box. The LED taillights I purchased off from craigslist for 40 bucks and met the seller at the BFI in Freeport Maine to complete the sale (BFI Freeport Maine look it up). I installed them really high so if I was towing a trailer and lost the lights they could still be seen (in Maine that is all that is required). The window I installed in the drivers side back end originally was located at the stove and sink area. Installing it here allows an amazing amount of airflow through the rig and my cat Ziggy AKA/ Kalamazoo uses it as her personal entrance.. I feel good about my weight choices on the back end of my rig. Whoever installed the reese hitch did a really nice job and took real pride in their skills. Some of the welds from Winnebago let go on the rough roads fleeing the northeast on my way south and I stopped in North Carolina for a few days and found a nice shop that specilizes in building trailers and building stuff. I spent several hours with a nice young man underneath the RV reinforcing every weld to be seen and sutly mentoring in how to get a whole lot of good welds done in short order. They only charged me 80 bucks and I gave the kid a really nice tip. He did everthing I asked exactly as I wanted it done and we both learned a few things. So from now on I am bringing a trailer and at least on motorcyle with me. I may install brakes on the trailer just to slow things down. In the last ten years of traviing with a Toy Home I have seen people dragging every manner of things behind these rigs. If you want one of these you need to carry your balls around in a wheelbarrow

I am having the same problem with my 1992 Warrior. The water system has not been used 3 or 4 years. Water pouring out the top of the thing. Figuring it out has been on the back burner until I saw your post. So I went to work. I cut the plastic clips holding the assembly down and removed the metal triangle and then used a long 1/4 inch extension to push it out the bottom. A number two pencil would work also. It is just as I thought. A couple of O-Rings. The bottom one is pretty beefy and is not causing problems. I think I will replace just the top one with two of the small ones from my kit I purchased at Harbor Freight and then put under pressure again. Good Luck.

That is a good looking rig and looks very well taken care of. That said any of these can run into serious renovation expense through moisture rotting the plywood interior. A rig may never have had a roof leak or any exterior leak at all. Just the moisture of living in an RV will migrate into the plywood and leave a nice looking ' skin of wallpaper and a disaster underneath. If your serious about this rig I would say that it is well worth the trip to go check it out. Maybe send a PayPal deposit of 1k to hold it and venture out to look at it. I just sold and delivered my 1988 Itasca to a buyer 800 miles away for 7200 including my travel expenses. The rig I sold had no original appliances, bathroom, water tank and was set up for a one person operation and is in need of fresh paint inside and out. I have extensively rebuilt the interior of this Rig because of moisture issues and documented it. It has no real or unusual mechanical issues and I spent about 60 hours of my time going over all the mechanical and structural things I could think of before heading out to deliver to the new owner. It was the best tune I have ever had on the engine. The 22re averaged 12 mpg throughout the 800 mile trip through the uphill grades of Pennsylvania. I have gotten better mpg but not in those circumstances. The new owner has a really nice Rig and it is going to several years to get my new rig as bulletproof as the one I sold. I would take the time and effort to have a look at that rig. \ The 22RE is an amazing engine. .. .............

If I had done a full rebuild of the trans of the 91 I would not hesitate to tow the 88 to the new owners driveway. Since the full floater axle is lubed by packed bearings not the differential lube there is no worries about loosing lube to the differential. Dragging around for say 600 miles without driving the rig I would prefer nothing is turning that does not have to. I takes me about 5 minutes to yank both axles and slap some duct tape over the hole. It takes me longer to just setup to get at the driveshaft. Then it takes time and patience to get those four 14mm bolts and several different 14mm wrenches I have modified just for this purpose all while laying on your back and working your way back and forth under the rig. Pulling the axles just involves pulling the nuts and if you have prepared it. Then just smack it with a 3 pound hammer and just pull it out. I suggest prepping the axles to come out easy as if you need a tow you can just yank them and be underway in minutes. If a tow driver is trying to drop the driveshaft that driver is not going to have the proper tools and is quickly going to have a contrary attitude... The Buyer has been a stand up person without any dicker so I offered to deliver for a price... Buyer excepted my offer and we have a deal. Since the buyer did not haggle. I have spent the last week doing nothing else but going over every aspect of the rig and fixing everything that has presented itself. I also have not removed the expensive stuff that I did not include in the add. Honda Generator, 300 dollar fan unit, or new tires. Something that is quite easy for me through experience, investment in tools/equipment, and research may be a different story for the Buyer so I am going over every detail on the rig so it is usable for the new owner. I hope to park it in the Buyers driveway and walk away knowing the rig is in as good a condition as possible. Any defect is future maintenance. After delivery it is planes,trains, and automobiles to get back home to Maine. One last road trip in the 88

I have seen Toy Homes towing cars. My 1988 was alleged to have towed a HUGO (do you know what a Hugo station wagon is called? HU ALL GO). I have seen a Toy Home towing a Toy Home on a front wheel flat tow setup. In 2013 before heading out on what turned into a 7thousand mile trip I ran the 1988 over the scales. It weighed 8 thousand pounds. Oops with the basics in it it had weighed out at 58 thousand pounds. and So at the moment I have the 1988 sold to a buyer 600 miles away. I am thinking about pulling the axles and towing the 1988 with my 1991 that I have just done a sketchy rebuild on the transmission. It is a way home amid this stuff that is going on.

I purchased and installed a complete new head with valves installed,new bolts, gasket, and gasket goop. Installed it and have put 50 thousand miles on it. Ebay cost 220 bucks. I did have an overheating problem but it was due to either defective or just the hard use on the thermostats. They failed. Drill at least one 1/8 hole in every thermostat you ever install. I still have the original head if someone wants it they can have it for shipping costs...

I was in the local Toyota Dealership today and asked the Service Manager if my 91 had the special service campaign relating to head gasket done. Turns out that it did on 2 26 98 at Gocsh Toyota in California. That is good to know...

I took my 1991 toyhome apart two years ago. When I went to reinstall the couch I had the same problem. I did not remember and could not find what supported the couch. I ended up ripping some 2x4s in half and making my own. On the right side facing the couch it is self supporting in the left I put a bracket on the outer wall as It goes over the wheel well.

That is the furnace that is in my 1991 Warrior and it lost the exhaust on the trip home from the salvage yard where I purchased it. I have put a lot of thought into needing this part over the last two years (have not seen one for sale in passing) and right now is the point that this needs to work or do something else. So here is the service manual : http://trekin.digital-digs.net/Share%20PDF/Furnace_Service_Manual.pdf Then the install manual: http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Suburban-DD-17DSI-Installation-Manual.pdf Long story short I have looked around casually for this part for a few years and it does not readily present itself and it has not been a problem since it is not needed\ SO I made my own

Living in and traveling with 25 to 40 year old motorhomes have multiples of CO, Fire and Propane detectors. These old rigs are prone/high risk to a multitude of problems.

So I posted my ad as way to get a bunch of pictures here. I have spent the last 8 years with the 88 and have much to relate over my 50 thousand miles. You have purchased a nice rig that can be rebuilt from the inside with minimal tools and experience. That said. I just pulled the transmission from my 1991 Toy and used a donor 1993 T100 transmission to repair the 91 and reinstalled the whole thing. It has worked well over a 180 miles. The 1988 took me around two months to repair the rot and the 1991 has been two years having a massive pine tree fall on it. So post some pictures of everything. I have been there done that.

Welcome My 1988 is the same rig from the outside. I have it for sale with pictures. https://maine.craigslist.org/rvs/d/rockland-1988-toyota-class-motorhome/7205750655.html 1988 Toyota Class C MotorHome - $6,100 (ROCKLAND) image 4 of 24 © craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap 1988 Toyota Winnebag condition: good cylinders: 4 cylinders drive: rwd fuel: gas odometer: 155363 paint color: white rv type: class C size / dimensions: 25 long title status: clean transmission: automatic

Every vehicle I have except for my 1991 Toyhome has the check engine light on. Same goes for the last ten vehicles I have owned. I ignore the check engine light until performance is affected. I keep a constant check on my gas mileage if it drops then I go looking for the cause. I have the o2 sensor and the ecm from the 1993 t100 I just scrapped. The 1993 transmission had more wires coming out of the neutral switch and had a temp sensor on the output/forward line on the trans. Does yours have a sensor on that forward line?? How about a picture... I would love to see some pics of both sides of your trans. I have put around 50 thousand miles on my 1988 with the 22re and check engine light has been on all the time. It has averaged 15.8 miles per gallon for the whole time. I also have a log kept by the second owner that documents every expense down to cups of coffee on the road and toilet paper over Her 50 thousand miles of ownership. It averaged 15.8 miles per gallon. The light was on when I purchased it and it is still on. Hows your truck running?