Gulfstream Greg

I ditto what Linda has said

An Ipad wants 2.1 amps at 5 volts to charge. Kinda maxes out a combined shared 2.1 amp usb charge port. There are restrictions with convenience sometimes. I would have left it a 12v cig outlet and used a 12 cig outlet split-er with separate usb charge ports for more power or Get a 12 volt cig charger for the Ipad.

A guy at an rv repair facility told me to buy a flea collar and cut it into sections and place them just inside the cabinet near the burners of my appliances and it would keep out those pesky bugs, wasps, spiders etc. Never tried it so can't say it really works.

Try lexel caulk, amazing stuff, comes in clear or white. It is the duct tape of caulks and I will attest to that. http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/ But you got something else going on, things should not be moving that much.

Take a look at this one, not sure if it is the one. http://www.northstarcampers.com/Manuals/Atwood-Hydro-Flame-8500-Series-Furnace-Manual.pdf What makes you believe it is the sail switch? Other possibilities are a bad board or igniter adjusted incorrectly, tripped high limit sensor. The sail switch can be tested in-place with a continuity tester if you can get to the wires. Usually though you have to pull the furnace and put it on the bench with a battery and run it. I recently had a problem with mine. Adjusted the igniter. It would fire the first time after having it out but not after. Finally figured out that rust in the combustion chamber would blow up and clog the little holes the igniter wire used to ignite the gas and would not let the gas get to the spark. Must of had it out 5 times before I figured it out. I had to completely disassemble the burn chamber and blow out the rust with compressed air. Once I got all the rust out it fired up every time after that. See my note below about gaskets. Note that the igniter wire has to be adjusted to a specific spot. Also note that there is a gasket for the cover plate to get to the wire, if you tear it it has to be replaced or risk carbon monoxide leaking out. There are other gaskets also that might need to be replace for fear of carbon monoxide. They are all made from a very soft soft material and usually self destruct when taken apart on a 30 year old furnace.

There is one (1986) on the board here posted by me back when we owned our 86 4x4 turbo 180RD Sunrader http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=972 Note that it does not cover such things as appliances as most RV's came with additional manuals specific to the appliance.

Insulate it some how from the wall

There is a direct led replacement for those lights as well. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-lights/led-bargman-84-tail.htm Put some in my rig. They hurt your eyes if you look at them. Had to put in a special blinker to make them blink at a normal rate.

Looks like a cool restoration project!

We just purchased a 26 ft prowler travel trailer weighing in at around 5000 pounds loaded. My tow vehicle is a 2002 f350 crew cab dually with the power stroke 7.3 diesel. Almost 50 ft long. A recent trip into the Sierras then another to Redding got an average 10 mpg and better. I run a light tow tune (up to 8000 pounds) with the f350. With that tune it gets 10 plus mpg with or without the trailer. A couple weeks earlier we took our 1990 toyota Gulfstream V6 to Oregon. On the way up 5 north to Redding we had some good head winds. Could not keep it in overdrive even on the flats. MPG on the way up was dismal, 8-10. On the way home from Oregon got 13 to 14. 60 to 70 mph in the toy and 55-60 with the f350/trailer.

I did a system search in the classifieds and discussion board for rg810806@gmail.com and found no members with that email address. Where is your ad posted, how did you receive the response? via email or the internal messaging system or what. This is important because this guy is trying to scam you, so I need to know the details to investigate if the guy is a member or if he is contacting you via outside sources. Was there an IP address associated with the response?

V6 timing belt and related components like the engine water pump should be replaced 60 to 80k. Valve adjustment on a V6 is not really a do it yourself project. Thing is most of our toy homes have low mileage. As a couple have said the rubber is a problem. Rubber really only lives around 8 years under heated and sun conditions. Beyond the mechanics one must consider the coach stuff. Flush and sanitize the fresh water tank and water lines. Check all the plumbing connections for leaks. Replace the Carbon monoxide detector and general gas detector. Is the converter the old 6800 series, it has to go because they are junk. Molds that grew during the winter and lets not forget those creepy biting spiders that can move in. Oh ya and what about rodents.

This stuff will seal anything http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/ but only use it on the out side, never put it under anything to seal because it just is way too strong. It sticks to anything even wet surfaces. If the area though ever had silicon sealant then you have to try and remove the residue left by the silicon, but that holds tru for any sealant over silicon residue.

Wide metal straps, bolted through the floor with big fender washers. Bumper stops bolted through the floor on all sides so it does not slide around. Question is will the floor and framing support that weight while going down the road abused by road conditions. Some time ago I pulled my 16 gal tank out and put down a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood under the tank to spread out the weight better and strengthen the floor. As far as captains chairs my preference is a couch. It is hard to sprawl out in a captains chair. Plus I think the layout under the couch has a wheel well and mine has a storage compartment, coach battery, converter and the shore power cord so you might have to elevate the area and then deal with the safety aspects of proper seat belt bolt down etc. I am not saying it can't be done just that I prefer a couch and the storage area I presently have.

The auto industry has been sharing components and chassis for years. Early international scouts and ford broncos use the same chassis, dash, bumpers etc. But they used different drive trains and engines and suspension. My ford f350 has an international engine. Toyota might have copied an idea with the FF axles but I have never heard of anyone being able to bolt in the 3rd member differential or other axle components from another manufacturer. Dana manufactures axle assemblies for more than one auto builder. So yes it is possible but I think someone would have figured it out by now so my guess is even if it's a copy of an idea it is still Toyota engineering.

I used to run our sunrader refer on 12vdc, had a aux lighting relay that gave the refer power and that I could turn on and off from the dash. Had a led on the dash that was powered from the refer side of the relay so I could verify the refer was getting power in case the relay failed. Seems like it was around 8 amps or so for the refer, really not that much, not enough to smoke the alternator but enough to run the coach battery down in slow traffic or parked so that was the reason for the switch. I have been through 4 alternator on our V6. First one had a bearing failure, second one shorted on got so hot it was smoking, third one smoked when the isolator blew up. So far the 4th one is still alive.

Yes a diode is a solid state device. Normal relay type solenoid isolators just work off of the ignition switch run side if wired correctly, Correctly means on the run circuit and not the ignition on circuit. When the ignition is in run position the solenoid gets power and closes or energizes. The pa-sprc200 monitors the alternator side voltage and when it drops down to a certain state (11.5 volts) disconnects the coach battery. It's really just a fancy solenoid that can monitor the voltage state. One thing it does do is not energize until the engine is running. Must see the higher voltage on the alternator side I guess. As I stated above about correct wiring of any solenoid it is important that the coil side is wired to the run circuit and not the ignition on because if the starting battery goes bad and the coach battery gets connected during a start that high amperage the starter needs could burn up the wires on the coach battery side.

There is a voltage drop across diode isolators. The diode isolator is what blew up taking out my alternator. I do use voltmeters to monitor voltages both in the cab and in the coach. I think the idea of the PAC multi color led is more of a status and warning system. But the different colors do represent specific voltage range states. A yellow led high voltage is 12.4-11.5 volts. I think 12.4 is considered 80% charge, 11.3 and below is considered drained. So yes to better evaluate battery state a volt meter is an vauluable tool. My coach panel is just a little bit custom. Here is a pic The panel is fed by 6 ga. wire directly from the coach battery, More info on the panel here http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=3221

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Found that the flat smd panels are the best for me. Bought them off ebay real cheap. Took some old bulbs, broke out the glass and soldered in some wires and connected them to the panels. I just let the panels float on the inside on top of the plastic lens. Only problem I have with them is that they are too bright at times. Would be nice if they could dim. I have not tried pulse width modulation with these modules and at times I have HF radio equipment operating that and have found that the ebay pulse width modulation dimmers generate receiver noise that is unacceptable.

Here is the manual for the clipper which has a wiring diagram to use with two batteries. http://www.nasamarine.com/images/Clipper%20BM1+BM2.pdf What I see is that the second (coach) batteries negative side only connects to the shunt. No connection to chassis. As a note here I have seen bad chassis grounds create charging problems with second batteries. If your starting battery never seems low on charge then it is possible the system is not seeing the coach battery properly. Start your engine several times in a row with the headlights on then with the engine running start checking voltages at all points, IE both sides of the isolator, starting battery, at the coach battery, at the shunt, positive and negative posts, positive and chassis etc.

OK here is an update. I am finally getting around to replacing my isolator. I am moving away from the diode type to this http://www.carid.com/pac-audio/pac-audio-accessories-16830926.html Opinions are welcome as I will not have it in my hands until some time next week to install.

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Our sunrader (sold it) had the same problem. If you still had the OEM lights they daisy chain from one to the next. The wires just shoved into a spring tension connector on the light itself. If you take the cover off you should be able to see those wire ends poking into/through the brass assembly's. What happens is that they get corroded right there where they push into the tension connector. If one goes bad all the rest down stream loose power. Only way I could fix it permanently was to clean up those wire ends and brass assembly's and solder the wires to the brass.

I have also never used this function. I find it easiest to just view each forum for whats new. But on the left side of the "New content Page" you should be able to select how far back in time you want to go. I am not sure that I am clearly hearing what the problem is. As a note the system has not been rolled back to a older version. Nor have I turned off any features.