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We used stained Luan to replace wall and ceiling panels. If you are on a budget, take the time to separate the panel from the insulation. Otherwise get some sheet foam and cut to fit. We used a pneumatic stapler to attach panels. Consider upgrading the cab over lighting whilst you have the panels off. On a 1989 Dolphin, at assembly it appears the roof was put on after the walls were finished. We used a quarter-round on the transitions to hide any mis-match. Cabinets come off pretty easily. Be sure to measure/mark/ identify where wiring penetrates panels. Take lots of pics!

Check with Dinosaur Electronics. They make custom boards for many furnace applications. If you know the factory part number, they have an interchange data base. If not, you can search by manufacturers model number. I have an unused Dinosaur UIB-L board kicking around the shop somewhere. If it’s a match it’s yours for postage.

Need recommendations: My furnace starts as it should but shuts off abruptly after 2 seconds of operation. I replaced the time delay sw and the limit sw to no avail. All wiring is correct. Blower performs robustly and burner lights immediately with good blue flame. I suspect the modual board is shutting the gas immediately. Do I need a new Modual board? If so any recommendations on source. My board p/n is 231741. I have a Suburban furnace model DD 17DSI. Thanking you in advance. Marse.

Thanks for sharing, I need to replace the sides and front, inside forward due to unseen water leakage. It's just a matter of finding cardboard to make a template, then thanks to your info finding the correct material. Not looking forward to it, but I know in the end it'll add value to the RV. Mine is an 89 model with a fuel injected six cylinder with 85 thousand original miles.

I'll second, er third the Everstart MAXX at Walmart. Good battery - did well in the last test I looked at 5 years ago, plus great return policies. I literally have 9 of these in various vehicles I have.

The Maxx starting battery in my Warrior was also 11 years old when I finally replaced this year. Not so sure it was even really dead/gone at that point…

I've always bought the Everstart Maxx both for deep cycle and engine starting batteries. Always lasted a very long time. Last summer I bought a regular Everstart deep cycle because the Maxx was no longer available. I haven't had any problems with it. I think the down grade was warranty related. People use them in boats and drain them completely and a 3 year warranty is too long for something so easy to abuse. They still make the Maxx for car starting batteries. First one in my Sunrader was 11 years old when I finally needed to replace it. Linda S

Worst to best battery technology, FLA $$(flooded lead acid) comes in 3 types... Automotive start, Combo Marine Start-deep cycle, true deep cycle (golf cart) 50% safe max life discharge AGM $$$(adsorbed glass mat) comes in auto start and deep cycle 70-80% max discharge LifePo4 $$$ (Lithium) NOT for starting, great for deep cycle. 100% max discharge Ease of install worst to best. LifePo4. "They" make "plug n play" LFP batteries, 100AH GP size 24. BUT factory converter will only charge to 80%, a deeply discharged places a heavy load on the factory alternator. Proper install $$$ includes a new converter, or solar, and a DC 2 DC charger to protect the alternator. AGM and FLA are equal truly plug n play. Just get the biggest one that will fit in your battery box

I have had a lifelong policy of simply stuffing the largest battery in the battery box that will fit in all my vehicles. Google an automotive battery sizing guide chart and it will also provide the connection locations and type to guide you in your purchase.

I have a 91 Toyota Itasca rv. Based on comments here I went to Walmart and bought one of their Everstart Maxx batteries. After about 3-4 months 2 cells shorted and I went back to get a replacement. Unfortunately they had discontinued that battery and insisted they would not refund my money but I had to take a substitute battery. I did so and performance has been marginal. We are planning in a trip back east and I would like to pick up a better battery. What are some of the choices?? Thanks, Chuck

Thanks Linda , I will get this and try . Will let you know :):)

Ah, too bad. Yeah outside is tough.

I've used Sem a few times. Used the prep spray before too. Maybe lasts inside but doesn't outside. Discoloring and flaking in about a year Linda S

Good to know Linda. Also, if someone finds a better product but its not white, there is an aerosal vinyl dye from SEM that works quite well. Could be sprayed permanently white. I used the white on an ancient headliner full of glue bleed through stains and its been snowy white for 15 years.

Ah. He didnt do his research on our forum, but would like us to research his answer, eh? Hmmm...

The only thing I've seen used successfully is white garage door seal. Garage Door Weather Stripping Top and Sides - 16.4 Feet Long Weatherproofing Garage Door Rubber Seals with Nails(White) - Amazon.com I tried it but I think the stuff I bought was too thick so not flexible enough. My girlfriend Gail did the replacement a few times and results were perfect. Unfortunately, Gail has passed, and I have no one to ask anymore. I do know she used contact cement for the adhesive and put a tiny bead of caulk along both edges to seal and finish the look. Linda S

Hello, ‘Does anyone know where to get the rubber trim that is between the cab and RV body ( right behind the drivers and passenger doors on the outside ). Any help would be appreciative. thanks Rodger

Poster hasn't checked in since he originally posted but really doesn't matter. The motorhome he's talking about is a Ford Linda S

Welcome. So as a suggestion, you might do a better job of describing it. So far the sum total we have to guide you are two words: "Poor Condition". Also, what city are you near?

I have a 1991 Winnebago. Model is 3FC VIN 3FCMF53G2MFAO3542 POOR CONDITION, BEEN SETTING FOR ABOUT 10 YEARS. IT WAS WORKING BEFORE IT WAS PARKED. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT'S WORTH. NEED DESPERATELY TO GET RID OF IT.

Ack - really? Remind me never to try that. So today, I got a fresh right window to very close to it's final size. Hoping to finish that process tomorrow and be ready to try installing them on Sunday. I will need to fully sand the edges so they're smooth and rounded to pry into the seal without catching or cutting it.

My 86 came with factory valve stem extenders for the inside rear wheel. Tried to install easier access ones but with the 6 hole rims it wasn't possible. I did put some on my Nissan Sunrader. 5 or 7 inch, don't remember. Metal flex ones. Ebay was the only place I could find them that short. If you search the site for valve stem extenders you might find someone else who bought some hopefully with a link Linda S

Linda, I see that you've been posting on this thread for about five years (six-ish, now), and you're old and have an attitude. I like that. And I'll bet that my Bro and I are at least as old as you, if not older. We did our first restoration on a 1956 MGA when it was seven years old. My Bro and I are prepping our 'new' old 1993 Itasca to get on the road, after our five year hiatus for heart and cancer issues. Shortly after we bought it, we had the rear end rebuilt with a lower gear ratio to suit our new Colorado mountain ways. We also put on new tires all around. Unfortunately, we weren't paying attention when the technicians did the install, and they put/left the valve stems aimed every which way but correct. Now, we are planning on bustin' all the tires off the rims, installing new stems (hopefully, aimed in an accessible direction), and maybe putting on extenders. But maybe not. It looks like, with the proper stems, installed in the right orientation, with the wheels mounted in a rational and logical manner, we should be able to get at everything with a minimum of hassle. Which brings us (finally) to an actual question... Do you, with all your experience and research, have a favorite or recommended valve stem style, manufacturer, or source that you would be willing to share with us? I've googled the hell out of'em, and think I've narrowed it down to under a hundred choices, but I'm always willing and excited to solicit the wisdom of those more experienced than myself. Either way, thanks for looking out for we ToyMotorHeads.

Interesting - thanks for the input. Mines definitely the flange gasket. Funny how a pedestrian part like that can be an issue even with a world class company. I had an 89 Mitsubishi Van Wagon, which was a 4 cylinder built for the world market in huge volumes by a world class engine builder. It cracked exhaust manifolds to the point I'd yank them at the U Pull even when there for another vehicle. Felt bad that after I sold it a couple years ago, I later found a small pile of manifolds I had forgotten about.

back in the day, toyota knew about the problem and would replace the manifold for free. in the 22r they redesigned the shield and the cracking stopped