LED Interior Light Conversion

[waiter]

This topic had been discussed several times. I was convinced that LED lighting was the way to go. They consume 1/10 the amps as conventional 1141 bulbs, and put out the same color and brightness as the 1141 bulb.

I had originally purchased one type LED but wasn't satisfied with the color or brightness, it was blue and not as bright. (The bulb on the left in the two photos)

Then Krliov, RVDaytrader, and several others found LEDs that were mounted on a circuit card, this LED had color and brightness that resembled a regular 1141 bulb, very nice indeed. (Goto E-bay and search "High Power 36-1210 SMD LED") They cost about $5 each

EDITED 9 JAN 2012 - Search e-bay # "320756868072" or "36-1210 SMD LED" Make sure you select the "Warm White" LEDs. The "White" LEDs will be more blue in color.

I ordered 10 of these and installed several before the Alaska trip. I originally soldered the wires to a 1141base and used the self adhesive strip to mount the light in the fixture.

During the Alaska trip we had ample opportunity to evaluate these LEDs We loved them. However, the self adhesive strip would loose its grip and the LED card would fall down against the lens cover.

I decided to permanently mount these LEDs in all the light fixtures in my ToyHouse and rather than use the self adhesive strips, I would glue the circuit card LEDs to the fixture using heavy duty urethane construction adhesive (better than liquid nails)

1) Remove the fixture from the ceiling, cut the old socket off the fixture. Use sandpaper and scratch the surface of the fixture so the glue will be able to bond better. NOTE - While the fixture is torn apart, use this opportunity to spray some contact cleaner/lubricant into the switch.

2) Solder the LED wires to the switch

3) remove the adhesive strip from the circuit card. Clean with acetone, use sand paper to scratch the surface of the card (gives the glue something to bite into.)

4) route the Circuit card wires through the old socket hole and plug in to the switch wire.

5) Verify the LEDs work.

6) squirt glue on the fixture, and also the circuit card.

7) position the circuit card into the fixture.

8) turn the LEDs on. the heat they generate will help cure the glue faster.

Let the glue cure for a couple hours then reinstall the lens covers. I'm very happy with the LEDs . They are bright and good color, They conserve my battery when I'm boondocking, and I'll never need to worry about replacing burnt out bulbs or crappy sockets.

Look at this posting:

http://toyotamotorho...?showtopic=3615

RVDayTrader took some photos of one fixture with this LED and the other fixture with a 1141 bulb. Which one is which???

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[troyrobo]

looks great --- may be my next project

[waiter]

FYI - I found the original post for these LEDs. After reviewing it, I found that one of the users (mrgizmow) added a small resistor in series with the LEDs. He said a 67 ohm resistor significantly reduced heat, with very little impact on brightness.

I'll give this s try and report back.

EDIT -

OK, I hooked up some test resistors and tested the light. When hooked up directly (no resistor) I was reading about 0.245 amps

0 ohms > 0.245 amps (3.2 watts)

10 ohm > 0.145 amps (1.9 watts)

33 Ohm > 0.080 amps (1.0 watts)

The heat produced was not measured, but should correspond to the power consumed.

Light output was not measured but was visibly reduced. The reduced level might be acceptable to some, but I've elected to leave mine as originally configured.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Derek up North]

What, not going to install a variable resistor so you can adjust the lighting to suit your mood?

[waiter]

What, not going to install a variable resistor so you can adjust the lighting to suit your mood?

I was thinking about how to do that

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Bunneys]

What, not going to install a variable resistor so you can adjust the lighting to suit your mood?

I'm building my own 9 led bulbs I bought the 12V dimmer from ebay to try it out. It works great on the bench.

I have not had a chance to mount it yet, and I'm not too sure what LEDs I will go with. I will try a combo of soft white with super white and see how that works.

For in the RV, I might add a remote dimmer... might be next years project though...

Here is the dimmer I got from ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-DC12V-LED-Dimmer-brightness-adjustable-controller-/170658097147?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bc03e7fb

And the remote one I'm looking at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/LED-Strip-Light-Dimmer-Brightness-Control-IR-Remote-/190547401606?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5d829b86#ht_3362wt_951

[waiter]

Looks neat :-)

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[Allen]

I just wanted everyone to know that I just replaced almost all the white LED panels (array of LEDs) I installed in our RV about 2.5 years ago (except the one in the bathroom and the one in the overhead cab area), with new hopefully better quality ones. The two issues I had were they were 1) fading over time, and 2) LEDs were failing in the panel. I found the following interesting fading article on the Internet: http://www.discoverc...ssue_7/pg-4.htm . The one I used as a nightlight is incredibility dim, maybe at 10% of initial brightness and most of the LEDs were out. Note: I am going to use amber colored LEDs for nightlight use (only white LEDs fade).

I just wanted everyone to know that they most likely will have to replace their white LED panels eventually, so they can plan for it. I hope this helps.

[picklebill]

Boy - you guys got off a lot cheaper than I did. I got these replacement LED'S to replace the 1141 lamps in my overhead Bargman fixtures. The spec's on these are 300 lumens (1141-252 lumens)and the color temp is 3500 degrees Kelvin. the thing I like about them is that they draw 90 milliamps at 14 volts and provide slightly more light than the 1141. We will see if they get dimmer over time. I forget what the warranty is, but it seems it is pretty good. They work great and greatly extend our operation while boondocking. Oh yeah, they cost $20 each (ouch)

Bill

[Maineah]

My latest home made it's a 15 LED G4 type every bit as bright as a 10 watt halogen.

[wistoy]

Great lights, I have been using this type for 2 years, very low draw, solar panel can recharge the next day even on a cloudy day, I have also found thru PPL Led lights that are shaped like the original bulb for use in the bunk area for the reading lights, and have been very happly with the draw and light levels. Now if only led lights for 110 volt would come down in price I would also replace every light in our home as well.

I have found that the less the battery needs rechargeing directly relates to gas savings when driving, as a larger load on the alt. causes the motor to labor more= fuel use.

[mrgizmow]

Nice to see continued follow-up with the Led's. As Waiter suggested, I purchased my LED's direct from China (inexpensive and fast) but some (?) got VERY hot... As I have as well, upgraded to a 45 watt (Harbor Freight) solar panel array (affordable), I had a chance to also try (included) a couple of 5 watt fluorescent 'bulbs'. As these seem to work (and match) great with the color of my LED's, my question is, anyone find a source for affordable 5 watt fluorescent bulbs? Thanks, Gerry

[Gulfstream Greg]

My latest home made it's a 15 LED G4 type every bit as bright as a 10 watt halogen.

That looks sweet! What about dimming, is it possible with that array?

[Maineah]

That looks sweet! What about dimming, is it possible with that array?

Greg I don't think so they have a very broad voltage range so I have to assume they are internally regulated. The warm whites are very nice some thing around 3200K they are not as intense as the 10 watt halogens but about as much light. I got them from Amazon for 9.99 they are about a warm as the average cat as far as heat.

[MontanaChinook]

I'm doing this to my Chinook right now.

I have a question, before I go too far. My light fixtures are plastic. The part the bulb fits into is metal, obviously, and it's riveted to the plastic. I don't know enough about how the lights work. With my new LEDs, do I just solder one wire to the back switch and connect the other straight to the rv wiring, or do they need to be in contact with something metal first, like in the original setup?

Also, there was originally some reflective stuff glued in to help with brightness, but they're crumbling. Should I put something reflective on the inside of the fixture?

[Maineah]

The metal part of your fixture is the - side of you power the wire end is the + (at least that was the way it was intended) In the case of the LED the foil is no much of an issue for 2 reasons lack of heat from an LED and the LED's are directional bulbs are not.

[MontanaChinook]

So then is it ok to just connect the + wire to my rv + wire and the - to the - wire, without any metal involved?

Yeah, that makes sense with the foil. The bulb lit every direction, while the LEDs only point down.

Thanks!

[Sunrading Arkansas]

Just orders these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_box_?k=Amico+10+Pcs+Car+1156+BA15S+1206+68-SMD+LED+Tail+Brake+Backup+White+Light+Bulbs

Ten for $37 shipped and 280 lumen! I really didn't want to solder anything and i don't think the Cool White color will bother me (the wife will be a whole other story), but for that cheap I figured I'd roll the dice...I'll report back once I get them in.

[Maineah]

So then is it ok to just connect the + wire to my rv + wire and the - to the - wire, without any metal involved?

Yeah, that makes sense with the foil. The bulb lit every direction, while the LEDs only point down.

Thanks!

Yes no problem some LED bulbs are polarity sensitive some are not so be sure you have the wires correct.

[MontanaChinook]

I tested the lights with a 9volt battery and they work! So I got it right. Thanks.

[Maineah]

Man you are going to be an expert when you finally get that thing done!

[MontanaChinook]

Well, I'll least know quite a bit more about a whole bunch of things!

[Sunrading Arkansas]

Just got my new plug&play LEDs from Amazon (as I had mentioned above) installed...

Packaging was sufficient, I guess.

Before:

And After:

Side-by-Side:

Out of the 10 bulbs I got (for $37), two were a different color (cool blue) - one of which was loose from its base too (so I will address the seller with these issues). Even so, over all I am satisfied. The LEDs put out an equal or greater amount of light than the origials in a color temperature that is no different than the fluorescence in my home and I didn't break the bank to do it.

[Vanman]

Sunrading Arkansas

Just got my new plug&play LEDs from Amazon (as I had mentioned above) installed...

Out of the 10 bulbs I got (for $37), two were a different color (cool blue) - one of which was loose from its base too (so I will address the seller with these issues). Even so, over all I am satisfied. The LEDs put out an equal or greater amount of light than the originals in a color temperature that is no different than the fluorescence in my home and I didn't break the bank to do it.

I got this 10 pack today, installed them and just ordered 10 more, very pleased. I did not care for the packaging either, but they all work, so far.

The bulb over the range is a #912, 1 A / 12.8 W. So: a 15 SMD LED replacement is 105 lumen 1.44 W; a 28 SMD is 2 W; so I settled on a 20 SMD unknown Watts or lumens. Would like it to be brighter than the bulb is.

[Vanman]

Today I checked the current draw on everything in the RV. The 1141 bulbs draw 1.4 A and the LED's draw 350MA each. Did discover an interesting side effect of the new fuse ckt board that came with the new PD converter. Pulled all the fuses as I forgot the chart showing what device is on what line. The new ckt board has a small red led below the fuse plug that lights up when the fuse blows to tell you it's bad. Evidently this ckt feeds a small amount of current to the line even with the fuse pulled!!! The lamps will not light when you turn them on, but the red led does light.

BUT the new LED lamps have mostly square surfaces and some smaller round ones. With the fuse pulled the small round ones light up when you make the switch and the red led does not lite up ?? I do not need a lamp to tell me the fuse is bad so I'm thinking about removing the ckt board and removing this " feature ? " Is this just on the Progressive Dynamics conversion kits, or on all the others as well???

[Vanman]

I got this 10 pack today, installed them and just ordered 10 more, very pleased. I did not care for the packaging either, but they all work, so far.

The bulb over the range is a #912, 1 A / 12.8 W. So: a 15 SMD LED replacement is 105 lumen 1.44 W; a 28 SMD is 2 W; so I settled on a 20 SMD unknown Watts or lumens. Would like it to be brighter than the bulb is.

Arrived today, boy these LED's must be really tough as the packaging was minimal again. The #912 gets hot enough to burn the fingers after a few seconds, but it's really bright. The 20 SMD led's draw 130 mA and are nowhere near as bright as the bulb, might be good as an indicator bulb tho.