mrgizmow

Well, wish I had more to offer you folks in the way of 'Toy-Home' stuff. Went to the other Smog shop and then rig passed with-out a glitch. Given my concern, before they 'officially' hooked the engine up to the computer, they double checked the timing. Like my Toyota mechanic, the new Smog shop said the timing was fine at 6 degrees, though a bit over, no problem. Perhaps the original Smog shop had the jumpers in the wrong holes, his timing light was malfunctioning, or the mechanic was wearing his old glasses. Don't know. Thanks again as this forum has been very helpful. Likely with the sale of my Dolphin, I will not be back. To the few that realize forums would have little value without energy and contribution, I say thanks folks........ For those that think they don't have anything to contribute, might I say, that is likely not the case. Should you have researched a problem, but your solution was a bit different than what had been posted previously, post your insight/experience as it might be beneficial to someone else. Our Toy-home has been a nice project for me. Though the Wife and I traveled across the great U.S of A in a 1964 VW bus in 1975, it was pretty clear that for what ever reason, I had become even more 'anal' with pre-trip planning. I seemed like I was preparing the Mars Rover, and all she needed was a soft bed, toilet and someone to keep track of where we were going. Live and learn...... Gerry

My understanding is the inner part of the pulley that is bolted to the crankshaft is 'isolated' from the V-groove pulley portion by a very dense rubber vibration damper. The Toyota guy indicated that the only way he could think of to the timing mark being off, yet the engine purring like a 'kitten' was to have the rubber to metal portion of the timing pulley compromised. Though rare, he indicated that he has had to deal with that issue. This morning before breakfast, I drove to the shop and dropped off the Dolphin. The Toyota repair guy (that I have been consulting) indicated that he would high-lite the timing mark and double check what the Smog Guys seemed to be perplexed with. I walked to a diner and had breakfast then returned to see what the Toyota guy found out. Mark, the Toyota guy was a bit agitated, "what were those guys smoking" was what I was asked. From Mark's perspective, the timing was right on the mark (as engine performance suggested). In fairness, the smog guy is a fellow in his early 60's (younger than me) and likely had worked as a mechanic for much of his adult life. As he had the where-with-all to bring one of his younger associates over to double check what he was observing (very out-of-spec timing read-out), I suspect there was some glitch with the connection, or the timing light that was being used. I have went to this 'Smog Shop' for years, and they have checked all of the different cars that I have owned without issue. Though many that you see in such shops (smog inspection) are just out of some comprehensive training program, I suspect my evaluator had been a qualified mechanic at some point in his life. Made an appointment with another "Smog Inspection" station for tomorrow, and I will update with their findings. Right now, I seems like a case of 'shit happens'. It has certainly left me frustrated. I have spent extra time and money to get 'this project' completed. In fairness, it seems in 'this-day-an-age' things move so fast, and generally we are under, at least some pressure. When something pops-up that is way out of the ordinary, we are at a loss and unable to provide a viable explanation. I made an appointment with a different shop for a new inspection a 10 a.m. tomorrow morning. I will let you folks know what happened. Thanks again. Gerry

As the engine runs smooth and strong, no one would have a reason to doubt it was not properly timed. The smog guys checked because they are required to "check and verify". Made an appointment with the Toyota mechanic for tomorrow morning. I am sure he will double check and note where the pulley mark is when the timing light flashes. He will pull the belts and see if he can rotate it. He indicated that he has come across one or two that he could get the outer pulley to rotate a bit independent of the crank. I will let you know. Thanks again. Gerry.

Thanks fellas. The particular smog shop that I go to has passed my Toy three times before. In Calif. we have to certify every two years. All equipment (engine) has to be factory stock, this applies to settings as well. I noted that the smog mechanics did have something (jumper?) installed in a tiny flip-top box on the left side, just behind the battery. The smog mechanics did use a timing light that had a dial on it. I suspect they started out having the dial set for the factory 5 degrees. When the mark was not present, likely they kept turning the dial to capture the mark, but I am not a mechanic and am just guessing on the function of the dial. The smog guys readily admitted that the engine would not be running as well, and cleanly, or likely at all if the timing was really that far out. However, they (smog guys) had no good answer at the ready, but did confirm the engine idle setting. As I had many commitments for the day, one being picking up the would be buyer of the Toy at a nearby bus stop. This fellow has been living in a ratty Toy for a number of years and traveling about. I told him I would sell him ours but wanted/needed to get it checked out. The other mechanic that I mentioned has a shop nearby and specializes in Toyota's and Nissan's. The shop has been in place for years, and is right next to a VW shop I have used many time. Seems both these mechanics enjoy working on the old cars and trucks. When I brought the Dolphin in last week, the Toyota mechanic looked under the hood revved the engine a few times, said it sounded good. He then drove drove it 'down-the-hill'. Our part of town is at 1700 feet and there is a long straight stretch to the next community at 400 feet. This offers a good 14 mile test that will likely include braking, front-end alignment and condition, as well as cooling function, engine condition and transmission shifting. When he arrived back at the shop he said, this rig runs great and promptly pulled the plugs and I guess in motorcycle circles, did a plug-chop or evaluation. As his shop was right at the top of the long climb, the fact that the plugs were a nice color suggested things were in pretty good shape. He did nothing else and charged me a few bucks. I revisited the Toyota mechanic briefly right after the failed smog test, as I was passing the shop on my way to the bus-stop to pickup the potential buyer. The Toyota guy was as well baffled with the odd timing and suggested a quick answer being the twisting of the timing pulley on the vibration damper. He indicated that he had only seen this a couple of times, but had no other explanation. Like the Smog Guys, he said there is no way the engine would perform so well if the timing was anywhere close to thirty degrees. He also suggested that it would be easy to double check the pulley, likely by doing what you folks are suggesting, but at that moment I had no extra time and he was all booked up. Thanks again, I will certainly welcome any other ideas, and as well committed to posting a detailed resolution to this odd problem when it is confirmed. Gerry

I have enjoyed playing with our Dolphin but realize now, the Wife and I will never use it. Have had it 4 years. Have installed solar panels, LED lights, shocks, muffler, belts, hoses ect. Runs great and was getting it check for Calif. smog. Has always passed without a glitch. I think in four years we have driven it a total of 300 miles. Prior to offering it for sale a week ago the mechanic that test drove it, says it runs fine. Seems today, the smog guys were perplexed. They indicated the engine sounds fine and emissions are in spec. They indicated as well, the timing appears to be almost 30 degrees out of spec. They admitted that that could not be the case since the engine runs so well. I took it back to the Toyota mechanic that test drove it a week ago and he agreed, the engine runs fine. He suggested that it is possible that the pulley with the timing marks has twisted a bit on the vibration damper and now the timing mark is way out of position. I have done a number of searches on timing, crank pulley timing mark etc to no avail. Can any of you 'old timers' provide insight as to why my engine starts, runs and pulls the camper uphill nicely, but when someone puts a timing light on the pulley, the mark is no-where in sight. Thanks guys. Gerry

Seems to me, everything on the planet is always changing. In my opinion, you take each situation as it is presented. When 'long term' forum members move about, you have some sense of who they might likely be from their posts. Most things in life are based on a handshake, a look as to how someone presents themselves or a brief conversation. As a younger man, I traveled a bit, and have been 'befriended' by more than a few folks. Suspect most enjoyed my visit, likely a few thought me to be a bit odd. As a member of another forum, I have hosted a couple of travelers. Though we certainly have traveled a different path in life, the visits were a pleasant and productive experience. I would be inclined to say, take each situation/opportunity on it's merit. I personally would not feel comfortable hosting just anyone, but after a bit of 'forum' research could be inclined to make a decision that I could feel comfortable with. I suspect any of us could be embroiled in some legal nightmare for any number of unforeseen reasons; be prudent, do some research, but my guess is, there is a lot more to be gained than lost. Our Dolphin has been in the carport two years and logged 49 miles, geeezzzz. Gerry Paradise, California.

Much thanks 5Toyotas i'm feeling better already. Gerry Found the real culprit: this will be hard to explain unless you have recently had your brakes apart and have the same style I have. On my 88 there are two bent spring wires that fit into holes on the top of the brake pads, they are bent in the shape of a "U". They seem to be responsible for providing a very slight push, forceing the pads away from each other and as a result, they minimize the contact pressure of the pads to the rotor when the brakes are not in use. The give away for me (though this was my second dealing with the front brake) was the difficulty I was having trying to get the caliper bolts lined up with the holes in the torque plate. When doing my brake job I finally got it, but it struck me odd that is was such a chore. What I discovered was that the after market pads did not have holes that were as deep as the originals. The problem that this created was, even though the springs appeared to be properly positioned they stuck up a little as a result of the shallower holes. Though unseen, this conditioned created pressure on the pads because when I clamped the cylinder in place it pushed down on the higher (now contacting) "U" springs. This pressure prevented the springs from doing anything except binding the pads in the grooves they were suppose to float in. I snipped the dog-leg section of the springs so they sat lower. Now the caliper bolts in place very easy and the pads 'float' on the rails more readily. Since it is not all buttoned up and torqued down, I will take it apart again and take pictures. Note contact point at red arrow. This was seen on all four corners of both right and left brake calipers. I know it does not look like much but it was enough to prevent 'floating' of the pads. Brakes stopped fine, but would drag. Test drive is day & nite. Smooth and ho more heat felt on hub. Gerry before: after trimming spring:

This seems to be a good thread to add my question as I have an 88 Dolphin. My front pads were down to metal and the rotors badly scored. I replaced both and was pleased at the modest cost and the 'apparent' ease as a do-it-yourself project. The rig has 50,000 miles on it. The front bearings looked great, the grease was abundant and clean. I installed new seals as it was suggested and low cost/simple. What I have noted has been a rhythmic squeek that will go away with brake pressure. To me this suggests the pads are rubbing on the rotors (hard). I know with discs there is always light contact of pad and rotor. I expect as well, the rotor will always be warm as a result of some friction. Upon checking with my hands, the hub feel pretty warm/hot as well. I think the bearing adjustment is likely OK but perhaps the constant rubbing of the pads generates enough heat to migrate to the hub when just driving around town, with brakeing of course. I pulled the right side, the pad rotor contact was notable but without the wheel, I could still turn the rotor by hand. There seemed to be an area that was a bit tighter and 'showed' a more obvious contact mark for some degrees, suggesting that the rotor is very slightly warpped or perhaps wheel bearings are loose (I would be inclined to go with the warp). I greased channels in the torque plate, but used the old "pad support plates". I as well, applied some brake grease to the 'like new' slide bushings. Pads and rotors are new, the rest has 50,000 on motorhome miles on them. The pads seem to move comfortably in the torque plate even with the old supports. As well, the slide bushings seem loose and smooth. I noted that the snug contact between the pads and rotor could be minimized by using a C-clamp to push "IN" the caliper piston. After compression, should I expect the caliper to 'suck-in' a bit or simply cease applying pressure. On another post someone mentioned front brake grabbing and was told the master cylinder was the culpret. Since I installed new (non OEM) pads and rotors my thought was to 'lap' the pads a bit to provider a bit more space and less friction/heat. I know I have went on and on, but this is just the way I am. Any ideas as to what else I may be dealing with and solutions/ideas to the problem (s). Thanks folks............. Gerry

I can imagine many of you have been pacing back and forth awaiting the outcome of this project (). As I continued, I would sometimes stop and shake my head. Boy can I go off at a tangent, but it is always fun. The cost of this project was about $35. And as the picture shows, there is some value to be gained. If my rig were parked in such a way as to place the solar panels in the shade, this idea may certainly reflect enough energy to offset your energy loss from the use of your led lights for an evening. Seems, at least in my 'test'the suns movement is such that I would be required to adjust the panel every 15 minutes to keep the reflection on the panel. After getting a sense of the direction of movement, I could likely position the 'spot' so it would stay on the panel a bit longer. Set-up is simple and quick. The mirror as mentioned, 'stores' against the wall across from the one that Dolphin installed. Nice thing about mirrors is, they make the inside feel roomier, and again, they reflect the light in the evening. This was fun for me. Should I find myself with a few extra $$, Think I would be inclined to purchase a higher quality panel likely the size of the mirror (2'X 2'). To this, add about 50 feet of good quality wire of the appropriate gauge and attach to the tripod as it makes set-up and aiming really nice. The updated project may run upwards of $170, but then should I park in the shade, I would not have to be as vigilant chasing the Sun...... Gerry

My solar panel setup was a low cost experiment to see what I might glean from the sun while the toyhouse sits in the carport most of the year. No longer trust the converter to maintain (cook) the coach battery. As well, just don't seem to be inclined to upgrade the converter board right yet. So far the inexpensive Harbor Freight system has kept the coach battery at full charge while sitting for the last 6 months. As indicated, this low cost system seems viable as a battery maintainer, and as well for very modest recharge while boondocking. My setup seems to be able to capture sunlight from the front, slight angles off front, and should I prop up flat, I can get the sun while it is comming over the coach. Of course, much depends on how I park and the foliage. As I am getting the electrical 'center' readied for my new inverter, I noted the regulator for the panels was reading 10.2 volts. The Sun was low, and to the drivers side of the rig. As I left the coach and headed to the shop for more tools, I noted how bright much of the driveway was. As I approached the shop I got an idea. Before buying the inexpensive panel set that I did, I was very attracted to the 'mobile' suit-case set-ups. A small really portable package that produced 3 to 5 amps was pretty high tech and pricey. A low cost system seemed bulky, and likely produced/delivered to little power to be of much value (just my guess). Then of course, you likely had to move these about as the sun moved. My thought was, instead of moving the panel, why not move the Sun (). Since I am a fan of 'thrift store' shopping I went out this afternoon and purchased one of the many used adjustable tripods I found ($5.00). I plan as well, to purchase a 2'x2' acrylic mirror panel from McMaster Carr. My hope is to upgrade what I tried in the driveway today. It kicked the 10.2 volts upto 12.6. I know, the Sun moves and the mirror will need adjustment. If I am sitting around enjoying the great out of doors I don't think getting up from time to time and readjusting the mirror to pickup a bit more 'free' energy will be a big deal. The tripod is aluminium and light, it collapses down to about 18". The mirror panel I will 'hang' on the side opposite of the one already in the coach. I will let you know what if anything I net, beyond the fun of making it. Gerry

Boy oh boy. I certainly like the idea of an inverter but really never gave much thought on how significant the load can be. Right now I have an old 225 watt back-up unit that was used to power my computer during shut down when the power failed. I have the board on this unit wired to the coach battery and then the output wired to a dedicated outlet under the dinette. This unit should be fine for the Wifes laptop. Like everyone, I am intriqued with having more power just in case. Think I would be inclined to mount any upgrade in the engine compartment. To keep it simple, at least in my mind, like Waiter, run a dedicated AC line to a couple of added outlets. Could I not gain a bit more flexibility in running 'off the battery' if I were to replace my standard truck battery with a deep cycle one. I know deep cycle is not designed for high discharge, but it does not seem to take much to turn over these 4 cylinder engines. I did some searching and did not find anyone starting their rigs with a deep cycle unit so my thinking must be askew. I would welcome your insights....... Thanks, Gerry

If you are asking about my rig, to the right of my door is the fridge, with a small section of counter and a cabinet above that. No barrel chair or twin tables. Gerry

So far, so good. I will take some updated pictures of refined attachments and post pictures in smaller format today or tomorrow. Gerry here is the adjustable prop (extendable handle for paint roller) for the panels: here is the 'L' brackets that I used to reinforce the corners of the panel frame: this is what I used to make sure panels would not lift in the event that I 'hit' 70mph on a long downhill: additional security to prevent a catastrophic detachment of panel hinge: here are the end attachments for the 6061 t6 aluminium tube hinge attachment points:

I participate alot on another site that uses this same 'software'. In the last couple of days we have been dealing with A LOT of posts that have nothing to do with our site. We seem to be seeing lots of 'drug' ads and 'porn'. It would certainly seem a 'fact of life', to maintain quality, you need to be ready to support the cause. I donate there and I have donated here. If changes need to be made, since I benefit I will help pay. Gerry

Happy Holiday to all. Having a little extra time has allowed me to glean more wisdom from the Forum. The last 6 months have been spent working on our 87 Dolphin. Like anything, if you don't have any experience, it is hard to forsee what you are getting yourself into. It seems our low mileage rig still needed a number of things fixed. After taking the stock heater apart to service the blower (wheel) and flapper like many of you, I decided it might be nice to also have an extra heat source. Certainly, with such modifications you need to give serious thought to the risks you might be subjecting yourself (family) to. I decided to go with the Coleman 'Sport Cat'. This unit is only 1300 btu's and like the other Coleman catalytic heaters, it is designed to use the 1 pound cylinders. The purchase price for this unit was $34 at Walmart. My plan was to 'experiment' with this unit, getting it to operate on line pressure from the motorhome and mounting it in the oven. I will not go into detail about working around the pressure regulator on the Coleman unit as you will have to do your own "risk assessment" and proceed cautiously. With the catalytic unit tested and found to be working safely and as expected, I began my in-coach install. First, I removed the oven door, as I did not think the over would ever be used. I then tee'd into the coach gasline between the stock heater and stove. In our coach there is a small door under the 'couch' next to the stove that allowed me room to plumb and install a valve. This change gives us a little extra heat, is out of the way enough that it will not get in the way as our dogs move about the coach and as well, it is high enough as not to ignite one of the little critters as they wander past. AGAIN, SAFETY; CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR IN PLACE ALL MODIFACTION TESTING DONE OUTSIDE THE COACH....... TWO UP-SIZED FIRE EXTINGUISHERS ABOARD. Another modification that was done for cold weather adventures. Years ago I converted an old Divco milk truck into an ad hoc camper (yup, I was kind of a 'hippie'). Back then I installed a Humphrey propane lamp. Not only did it provide great light, it also warmed things up. This install was over the dinette, into the center cabinet door. Again, safety concerns; though it was far enough below the ceiling as not to create enough heat to warrant concern (instruction manual) I added an extra panel of hightech insulation to the ceiling above the lamp. As well, for some there might be some concern regarding how the mantles for such lamps have been treated with some radiation (for whatever reason). This project went well and "I" feel safe and comfortable. I as well, have my carbon monoxide dector mounted to the wall that the bathroom door slides into. With the coach sealed (a test) it took about three hours before the dectector when off (both heater and lamp going). Now personally, I would never go to sleep with the catalytic heater on, nor would I run either of these appliances without proper venting. Just some of my projects and personal opinions. Pictures to follow. Gerry

As with many things, one can look, but not see. With the hood open, all the belts were in place and tight. I crawled underneath and removed one a closer inspection. Good lord, this and the other belts must have been the original. All the belts were hard, cracked and very compromized. Well, with the exception of the first adjective, this seems to discribe me at 62. The fix for the Dolphin was straight forward and inexpensive; new belts all around. No more screech on downshift climbs, but the engine does indeed pick up rpm's. New question (s); I have noted both with my 88 Toyota and my 2002 Ford Ranger, both automatics with around 50,000 miles. When the engines get a good workout, which for the Dolphin seems to be much the case on any adventure. For the Ranger it is generally on summer climbs. With the low viscosity oils that we seem to run these days (10-30) when I come to a stop at a light, I note that my after market oil pressure gauges read VERY low oil pressure. In gear, at the light, the engine (s) seem to idle around 600 to 800 rpm and I can see pressure readings of 3 to 5 psi's. Should I shift into neutral, pressure jumps to 10 to 13. When the throttle is applied, pressure raises quickly to 60psi. On the Toy, we have only had a couple of test drives. Unit runs fine, warning light did not go on, but when I grew up, seemed inclined to expect higher idle pressure, but then generally used higher viscosity oils. Guess I can run straight 30 weight. Another odd issue/question; Shortly after the purchase of the Dolphin I started dealing with the many overlooked issues needed to get the rig back into shape. The coach door had some problems that I was able to fix using 'L' brackets and Gorilla glue. What struck me as strange was the fact that the door had no cauking to seal the frame to the siding. There was some marking, but no hint of any sealant, or body repair. Like any good do-it-yourselfer, I purchased some special RV sealant and proceeded to fill the gap around the door. As I generally do after a job, I put my hands on my hips and stood and admired my work. I then got the strange feeling that that seam may have been purposely left 'open' to promote breathing between the aluminium door frame and the fiberglass siding as to minimize condensation and wood rot. Any insights or opinions welcomed. Thanks, Gerry

90Toy, appreciate first trip jitters as we still have that ahead of us (88 Dolphin). Found the heater motor and fan assembly pretty easy to service. I cleaned and greased the bushings, checked the valve flapper and adjusted the squirrel cage to make opperation smooth and quiet. Suspect our "first" adventure is a ways off still. Spent more than a couple of vacations sleeping in the back of my Dad's El Camino while parked in Wawona. Gerry

Yes indeed, on a trip to Harbor Freight I picked those up. They seem to work "ok" but outward indications suggest they are not of the highest quality. What I was attracted to was the gauge face that I found easier to read. The experience that I have with these in the Toyota are limited, but they appear to do what I need them to do, so I am happy. For me, in reality, I am looking for anomalies. Should the gauge always read a billion, when I see it reading 19, I am concerned enough to check things out. The H.F. gauges are not bad, but they certainly are not the VDO's that I generally have used. Hope this helps. Gerry

Nice to see continued follow-up with the Led's. As Waiter suggested, I purchased my LED's direct from China (inexpensive and fast) but some (?) got VERY hot... As I have as well, upgraded to a 45 watt (Harbor Freight) solar panel array (affordable), I had a chance to also try (included) a couple of 5 watt fluorescent 'bulbs'. As these seem to work (and match) great with the color of my LED's, my question is, anyone find a source for affordable 5 watt fluorescent bulbs? Thanks, Gerry

Bob C.'s info matches mine. The purchase was made at a local Napa auto parts store. Gerry

In addition to what other folks presented, I also installed a tach. and a couple of extra gauges as well. I like doing this kind of stuff, but don't feel it is a high priority. I have in place; water temp. gauge (kept stock as well), oil pressure (retained stock warning light) and added a vacuum gauge. The aftermarket water temp. gauge presented the biggest challenge as I wanted to retain the stock read-out as well. The vacuum unit is a bit odd, but provides 'lots' of information; indicates when your using 'lots' of throttle (gas), gives you information on timming and valve condition, and as well will lets you know (rather slowly) when you start gaining altitude as the vacuum readings will drop so much per (X) amount of altitude. The tach and vacuum seem to reinforce each other, that is to say, high rpm's (sudden) will likely cause low vacuum and higher fuel consumption. Then again, with the small engine (4cyl) most likely, we (I) will see high rpm's and low vacuum pretty often. Take care, Gerry

I carry a 2meter Yaesu on my trail bike and had a CB as well. Have not used nor mastered either one. Perhaps I will work harder. For the few of you that use such communication, is it more for 'recreation' than anything else? I also use a Spot unit, that I suspect would be much better in an emergency.. Gerry

New member here, and want to say thanks for the many bits of information. This Winter, Saskia and I purchased a 1988 Toyota Dolphin 22RE auto. The rig seems to be in pretty good shape and I was needing a new project. This forum left me a bit intrigued with a couple of solar posts. As Harbor Freight had a sale on, it seemed to be an opportunity to experiment with minimum expense. As I was concerned about using the roof as I thought, the less it is drilled into and walked upon, the better off I would likely be. The next most viable location seemed to be the one I chose (to me). I really wanted to get this in place so instead of buying the aluminium stock at McMaster Carr, I 'gerry rigged' some stuff from my local Ace hardware store. Feel pretty good with how it came out, but it would have been better with real channel instead of riveted angle. Note worthy as well (purhaps) is the old computer back-up power supply that I had in my junk pile. When the battery went out after many years of use I put it aside with the thoughts of using it as a 'trickle charger'. Got the idea that if coupled to the coach battery, it would likely make a good inverter to use to power the Wifes laptop. Seems to work fine and cost me nothing. Seems our I.T. guy at work has a number of units in the office that have bad batteries and are ready for the junk pile.......... As I have been doing some re-wire work, my battery/water control panel has not been working. Instead of fussing with that, for right now, I modified an inexpensive Mincota trolling battery 'evaluator' that for now seems to meet my needs. Gerry

Thanks, I will give it a go this weekend. Gerry

This is likely an odd one. I am kind of a fan of vacuum gauges and have (had) them in a couple of my rigs. Of all the rubber tubes on the EFI manifold, anyone have an idea of which one would provide the 'best' vacuum/throttle position vacuum? There are like 10 tubes about the intake. If you think you are about 75% correct, please provide a 'good' discription of tube start and stop point as to allow me to locate tube and tee into. My rig has the 22RE engine. This weekend, I will take some pictures of my (backyard simple) mods. Thanks, Gerry