eager1 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I have a 1984 Toyota 2.4 L (2366 cc) 22R engine in my Okanagan motorhome. I need to change my exhaust manifold gasket as it ticks rather badly when I throttle it up. I can feel the air leak with my fingers. Any tips? Anyone done it? Pretty straight forward? Any potential gotcha's? I am trying to decide to tackle it myself vs getting a shop to do it. I purchased the gasket already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobBeery Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 My 87 22RE had same thing. I hired it done. There was a problem. I had waited too long and the leaking exhaust had eroded either the head, the manifold, or both. Result is that the leak is maybe 95% stopped but not 100%. Hope you get yours done before there is enough erosion to have my problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Where is the leak? In the manifold/head joint, in the manifold/down tube joint. WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdog Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I did on my 1984 22 R go to Autozone get manual For 1984 Toyota pickup .very easy be careful Not to break mounting bolts,have metric sockets sometimes deep sockets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Any potential gotcha's? Seized fasteners are always a PITA in exhaust work. The safest way to undo a fastener that's been subjected to high heat and corrosion for decades is with an acetylene torch. A sheared off stud is not easy (usually) or cheap to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXXFabrication Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 apply a coat of high temp exhaust RTV to the gasket, even a slight amount of "erosion" will get sealed up with it. it is good to apply a thin coat of it whether it needs it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdrhound Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Today I will be replacing the exhaust flange/pipe gaskets for the 6th or 7th time. I just keep burning up the gaskets. 22REC The repeated torquing on the studs has not been good for them. One of them had been stripped for quite a while before I pulled the manifold to get the stud replaced. (It is amazing how well the 1" C clamps worked, for many thousands of miles.) The other two are still OK. Even with the good stud, I have not been able to stop the gasket failure. This time I did not even get 800 miles from that last gasket set. I clean the gasket seats as well as I can, torque them as evenly as possible, and there are no leaks after replacement. I do not know what more to do other than keep changing the gaskets. Getting really frustrating. Has anyone else been fighting this problem? Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Today I will be replacing the exhaust flange/pipe gaskets for the 6th or 7th time. I just keep burning up the gaskets. 22REC The repeated torquing on the studs has not been good for them. One of them had been stripped for quite a while before I pulled the manifold to get the stud replaced. (It is amazing how well the 1" C clamps worked, for many thousands of miles.) The other two are still OK. Even with the good stud, I have not been able to stop the gasket failure. This time I did not even get 800 miles from that last gasket set. I clean the gasket seats as well as I can, torque them as evenly as possible, and there are no leaks after replacement. I do not know what more to do other than keep changing the gaskets. Getting really frustrating. Has anyone else been fighting this problem? Ideas? I've had that sort of problem on several vehicles. Usually the leak causes overheating of the surrouding metal and warps and errodes it. Check the manifold and see if it can be planed if badly warped and/or pitted. If the head surface is bad - not much you can do with the head on the engine. If you can find some place to get a header-style steel gasket - it will not blow out like the composition gaskets do. That was the only fix that lasted on two Dodge V8 RVs I had to fix. High temp RTV (room temp vulcanizing) compound is not rated for full-time temps over 500 degrees F. That's a joke when it comes to exhaust systems. I've never seen any that will last more then a day or so. I HAVE used furnace cement to fix small imperfections on cylinder heads where the exhaust manifolds mate up. Any plumbing/heating supply store will have high temp furnace cement in small cans. Furnace cement is rated to sustain 5000 degrees F. High temp RTV is only rated at 500 degrees F. BIG difference. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rutland-10-3-oz-Furnace-Cement-Black-64C-6/202218155#.Udcn2vk3uek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 If I had a problem with a 2.4 and there was erroded or warped surfaces involved - I'd try something like this . http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-66080/overview/make/toyota Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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