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I am crossing America, visiting one mechanic's shop after another. 

I really recommend Any Radiator in Lake Havasu, AZ for, well, any radiator issues you might be having.  Ask for Mike, the owner.  A nice lakeside campsite is a short walk away if you have to wait on any parts to come in (as I did).

So now I'm in Buckeye, AZ, recently escaped from Quartzsite.  That was fun, but a week is enough for me.  I still have intermittent shuddering, and have still not plugged the TPS back in.  Otherwise it's running strong and smooth.  I am hoping I will be able to pinpoint specific repeatable issues as I drive very short day hops ( 2 hours max). 

Does anyone know of a good mechanic in the general Phoenix area who knows this TPS on the 1987 22RE pickup issue thing cold?  And will actually talk to me about it?  Paying for someone's "guesses" makes me think I could do as well by continuing to read and tinker with it myself.

If I were made of money, ah, that would be another story.  Thoughts?

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Has any of the mechanics actually cleaned and adjusted the TPS?

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Yes, he did,  and I looked at it myself when he opened it up.  It snaps back smartly, there is no corrosion, and there is "signal."  I'm not sure how to describe it.  Perhaps you can give me the words for that?  That was just before Christmas.  It has been unplugged since then and done well save for the occasional hiccup.  I'm a little nervous about plugging it back in because it was a beast to unclip.

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Thank you Linda.  I have since gone to a spot right outside Tucson.  I'm boondocking in a place where I am free to get under the hood and poke around, but am also within towing distance of Tucson, should that need be.  The internet is better here.  Warm, too.  I expect to be here for a week or so in case any members have a favorite mechanic in Tucson they'd like to recommend. 

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PS - I have googled a place called "Primarily Japanese" that seems to have good references, particularly about diagnostics.  Hopefully, before leaving Tucson, my hiccupy TPS engine issue will be resolved.  Will share any solutions found.  Cheers.

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Here's what seems to be a common problem.  Small shops that specialize in Toyotas don't always have lifts that can pick up a Toy House.  So it went with "Primarily Japanese".  The RV repair places don't necessarily have the knowledge base for a 30 year old vehicle.  So back to a shout out for a trusted Toy RV mechanic in Tucson.  Is there a way to search for this in the forum?

sigh.

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The TPS is a simple test it is kind of like a volume control it is a variable resistor that changes resistance with  throttle position. They seldom fail completely but they become flaky. The resistance reading must remain linear if it jump about it's toes up. As you have found out it is not critical but it does effect drivability.  It's much easier to work on while the vehicle is on the ground no lift necessary. The 22RE's fuel injection was a really good system even the very modern stuff still uses the basics of the early Bosch injection system (Toyota was under license to Bosch) 

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Plastic safe electrical contact cleaner, a new pencil with eraser and some 2000 sandpaper. Thats all you need to clean a TPS and restore it to health. Unless it has a broken trace, in that case its toast

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Why on earth a lift, indeed.  None needed. The lift was for the differential fluid change and leak check, which is a different-ial problem.  But several mechanics have rejected even looking at the rig to diagnose the rough running when they heard it was a 10' RV. 

The story is muddled because the 1) symptoms are not consistent, 2) I am on the move, and 3) I've been changing "doctors."  If I can get as far as Mountainair, NM I can stay put for a couple of months.  It's only 433 miles away but there's a 5000 ft hike up between here and there and the Dolphin won't make it on 3 cylinders or whatever she's running on now. 

I've got an appointment at a place called Highway Drive on Wed. at 8 am.  A neighbor here at the BLM campsite has a good Toyota mechanic who might stop by before then. 

It may not be the TPS at all.  That's the lead I had back in December.  It doesn't seem to help or hurt if it's connected.  I saw the inside and it was clean and moved well.  I wish I could say that I witnessed the testing the last mechanic did with it with the meter, but I was not hovering at that point. 

The Dolphin is exhibiting the same behavior as it did before Christmas; loss of power, running choppy.  Spark plugs smell of fuel, running rich. 

This is the site where I found the TPS adjustment instructions: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml#TPSAdjustment

My computer use is limited as I am dependent upon solar power to charge it out here.  All this is fine with me, but it must be annoying to the folks in the bleachers. :)

That's all I've got at the moment. 

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When I started working on Toyota's the engines were 8R's (replaced a lot of cam shafts back then) and I can say I have never replaced a TPS on an RE don't know if that means some thing just saying. If it's running poorly it will be easier to fix. Has any one actually checked the fuel pressure?

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Wow did I learn a lot today.  Becoming a pro on adjusting the position of the TPS, withOUT taking it all apart, thank you very much.  Skinny fingers and a dab of sticky Lanacote to position the lower one without dropping it.  I don't think the TPS was put back in right when the last mechanic took it out.  It was in there loosey goosey and, I think, not actually engaging the throttle. 

I did manage to get some good numbers out of it (in other words I don't think the TPS itself is faulty).  But I am not entirely clear what gap I am measuring.  I think I know, but the space I see - the only place where a moving piece of the throttle meets a screw - which I think is the stop screw - has a tiny gap no matter what position the TPS is in.  It never gets to 0.00 flush.  And it looks very much like you can't adjust the stop screw unless you pull off more bits than I am prepared to do out in the desert.  Am I reading this wrong, or do you have to see inside the throttle body when adjusting the screw?

"The other item that can affect the TPS adjustment is the Throttle Stop Screw. The stop screw controls the amount of closure for the throttle plate inside the throttle body. It must be set properly BEFORE adjusting the TPS itself. How is this done? The stop screw is set so that the throttle plate is fully closed inside the throttle body, then it is turned in to contact the throttle linkage and then 1/4 turn more before tightening the jam nut to lock it in place. This is done so that the throttle plate is held just barely off fully close to prevent it from sticking inside the throttle body. "

Tomorrow's another day. 

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1 hour ago, Maineah said:

When I started working on Toyota's the engines were 8R's (replaced a lot of cam shafts back then) and I can say I have never replaced a TPS on an RE don't know if that means some thing just saying. If it's running poorly it will be easier to fix. Has any one actually checked the fuel pressure?

The fault of the TPS is not inside the gizmo, it is the position on the EFI and the connection to the throttle.

If someone checked the fuel pressure they did not share with me.  What are we looking for with that test?

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