WME

Synth info. http://www.synthetic-oil-technology.info/ Yes its sponsored by Amsoil, but the information is valid and shows that there is "pure Synth" available at reasonable costs.

Wag time, you have a bow in your filler hose and it is collecting gas like a P trap does water in a sink. So when the temp rises the fuel and air in the tank expand and push out the fuel in the line.. Look around underneath and see how the filler hose runs.

So after you back out over the ledge how do you get the seat??? Or do you preposition yourself and let someone back you out over the abyss.

Its all about how much work your willing to do. There several posts about redoing the whole RV. Everthing will help some, so will a larger heater that will fit in the same spot

Refletix cutouts for all the widows, an isulated curtian hanging from the bed to close off heat loss through the cab.

My experience. 1. 1 Battery, 15 degrees, 1 night + a little more 2. 2 batteries, 15 degrees, 2.5 nights 3. 2 batteries, 60w solar, 10 degrees 3 days no problem 4. 2 big batteries (110 AH ea), 200w solar, 10 degrees, over 1 week no problem. A big alternator will do a lot for keeping things charged, there is a max safe charge rate for batteries.

I was talking about a pop top Nookie

You do realize how many Chinooks you could buy for the asking price??? But they are very so right for our crowd, maybe when they are 15 years old the used price would let us play.

Very unlikely, but to make sure just disconnect the house battery. Radios, clocks, 12v smoke detector or a bad igniton switch can cause a ghost draw. Some times the PO has done weird wiring. You also could just have a bad truck battery.

On the first rv I had the sink gray tank was under the sink, not under the floor. There was a single dump coupler. The black tank valve went streight to it The gray tank was a simple 1.5" feed that went to valve on the top of the black tank. So you would dump the black tank (toilet, bath sink and shower) and then dump the kitchen gray tank. Auto black tank flush. Elgent soulation. How ever I will admit to discovering a lot of new words when I had to drop the black tank to change the gray valve seals. A simple mod would place the gray valve under the sink with a 1.5 line to the black tank.

Ya know proper use of the factory plumbing is not a big deal. With my Escaper we could go 2 days with the water on board and waste tank capacity. 3 days if we could gopher hole the gray water. That works out to 8-10 gallons of water a day for 2 people, that is not what I would call wasteful. Knowledge and planning are very powerful tools. Warm showers, hot water for dishes is good stuff. I would fill the propane tank at the beginning of the season and maybe once during the summer. Wife likes a heater on some spring/fall nights so we use it and all is good. As always your mileage may vary

Trying to guess electrical problems over the net results in the wrong answer so many times. If your going to own a 20 year old MH then get a cheap volt meter and learn how to use it. Using a VM is a LONG way from rocket science. What will take days to on the net to talk about takes minutes with a meter. You should use what is called the half split trouble shooting method. Check source (battery), check light socket.... Battery good, socket bad. Check half way in-between. Power panel in then power panel out. Until you found the problem. Always work back to the good. P.S. Bad splices connectors are VERY common on old MHs, most of the time the connector is a Scotch Lock crimp on splice. Drop the light fixture and check the power leads and splices with a meter. Learn to solider and use heat shrink when doing any repair work.

Two people make the possibility of droping the glass window much less. But a careful person can do it.

Several folks have done this. The problems are the rear springs are too stiff. Sealing the hole in the back of the cab is a major issue. A standard box probably won't fit as the C&C had longer wheel bases than normal pickups. A flat bed would be easier.

Good fuel flow AFTER the pressure regulator should mean good pressure. Especially with a new regulator. The injectors are batch fired 1&3, 2&4. Signal comes direct from ECM, no connectors.

OOPS Windows 8.11 coming soon to the internet near you.

In another build, glassing 1x2 foam to make for support was talked about. That way you would have water proof support instead of wood.

Trouble shooting aid. A Noid Light set ($20 Ebay) They check the power to the injectors. An ECM sounds like a good idea at this point. A fuel pressure gauge is a good thing too.

Yo people, reality check...........A normal Toy is a couple of hundred lb over Max GVW. Adding front and rear storage, a bull bar,, now your 1000 lbs over. And you want to drive on the secondary roads in Mexico??

No leaf peeping this year. The shutdown closed Yellowstone at the peak of the season. Not much left now.

XP will become "non supportable" soon. March or April I think

The tank is upside down in the pic, I don't think that it is a separator. BUT I do agree that 2 tanks would be a better idea. Just measure the SPACE where it fits also. There might be room for more tankage.

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4508&page=9#entry46997

Any check engine light?? Off hand I would say low fuel pressure, or high exhaust back pressure

Does the 82 have coil springs or torsion bars on the front end??