Jump to content


Toyota Advanced Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About ToyoGuy

  • Rank
    Over 200 Posts!

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Fixing stuff, Family, Good tools, People with integrity (who fix stuff), Cooking, British cars and bikes, Woodworking, Fixing stuff.

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1984 Sunrader FG-180 RD 4x4
  • Location
    N. Bay, Ca

Recent Profile Visitors

2,029 profile views
  1. RH Drive, AND,...if you park in the direction of traffic flow, that back entry door opens to the street, not the curb, (here in the states). BTW, How much? TG
  2. Hey Maineah, Likely too late to reply, but edited without a problem. Probably 'pooter gremlins, global warming is bringing them out, I think. TG
  3. Thanks for the pix, what a clean looking 4x4. Great campsite. Having the same year rig, I agree on the low range gearing. Still can't stand washboard dirt roads to get to the "up-country" though, I get tired of listening to pots and pans. The next cabinet project is padded / noiseless cup/plate and pan drawers. PM me if you're ever up in Sonoma Co. and we can have some coffee and look at the rigs. By the way, have you weighed yours yet? If so, I'd be interested to know what you weighed in at. A couple of other 4x4's have been surprisingly different. BR, TG
  4. Mine is a replacement, plastic push-to-lock, non-screw-in. I bought it in Missoula, at O'Rielly's I believe. Sorry, no part# on it. I vented it by drilling a 1/8" hole sideways in the rubber seal because the system pressurized too much when the tank was absolutely full and outside temps were over 90 or so. You'll note, the throat looks able to accept both screw in and twist-lock. Also note, because my 4x4 fuel filler pipe is shorter and located in the wheel well, it sits a little lower and stock 2wd might tolerate a non-vented cap a bit better. You can see I don't intend to lose many more caps in the future. Somewhere on another plane of reality, there's a bunch of my unmatched socks and gas caps. Hope this is helpful. (the first part) BR, TG
  5. Hey Bigdog, I added power steering to my '84 SunRader years ago. What a difference in a 4 WD!! I bought the pump and lines together, used on Craig's List, but they should be available through a regular salvage yard. I think I paid $125 for all of it, then about $200 to have it installed (Note: prices from 6 yrs ago). If you have the dough, I say go for it, it's a game changer in parking lots at low speed and on tight parking. I don't notice an appreciable load on my 22R motor at any speed. You might have someone rebuild your pump or at least have it inspected prior to the install. BR, TG
  6. I can find plenty to buy, but I am curious to know whether stock '84 and '85 trucks are supposed to have vented or non-vented gas caps. I currently run vented in my '84 Rader Monterey and non-vented in the '85 stock PU. Some caps on the RockAuto site under the either "vented", or "regular" description, show "emission control" whatever the heck that means, is that maybe "sorta-vented"? Also, it seems like even a vented cap would have a pressure threshold before it releases? So much to want to know... TG
  7. Might consider that the flat steel surface beneath the back window, behind the seat in the cab, has no stock insulating or vibration dampening properties whatsoever. It is possible that it's susceptible to sympathetic vibration from the driveline that might occur at a certain speed. (No mention in your original post as to low noise vs high freq noise) I have had 5 early Toyota PU's of various years, regular and Xtra cab, and one ('84?) with a setup pretty much exactly like yours aluminum camper and all, and never had an issue. Have you ever had the camper off to see if it's the problem? Just a thought or 3. BR, TG
  8. Interesting what seclusion drives normal men to...... Also interesting that the 3/4 ton load spec is making a comeback over there. (or maybe never left) As usual, the fiberglass-coach Stallion bears an uncanny resemblance to an 18' Rader, even with the single rear wheel tucked so far inside the wheel-wells. Hope the suspension and weight-distribution has some provision for that. And, as always, the coach entry-door looks so weird to me on the driver's side of the coach. Good stuff Derek, never a dull moment with you. BR, TG
  9. Hey Iflyfish, I PM'd you on this, I could use some parts d/o the cost. Thanks, ToyoGuy
  10. Yeah, my LSPV is history as well, no love lost there. The rest all makes complete sense, thanks. TG
  11. Yeah, if the smaller calipers will fit over the thicker rotors I guess that would work. It would sure save money for the spacers and new calipers too. (Hadn't figured on the spacers, yikes) Have you set any of your Yotas up this way? Also, for comparison, any idea what your rig weighs? I'm at 5,800 lbs.,and that's un-provisioned too. Thanks, TG
  12. Hey there '84 4x4, Was cruising through stuff and saw your posts and eventual completion. Good tight looking rig and somewhat unusual. Sometimes I think I could use an extra 2' and sometimes I like the angle of departure that I have at 18'. I am for sure not getting the sawzall out again anytime soon though. I am however, interested in how much braking power you gained when you swapped up to the V6 vented rotor system up front. Was it quite noticeable? Is it a worthwhile mod for the dough? Before I knew of the upgrade, I replaced the stock solid rotors and all equipment up front. Coming over the Sierras, on the downhill side of 89/Monitor Pass, there's still "room for improvement". Thanks and stay safe and healthy, BR, TG
  13. Hey there Royal, been there and done that on the furnace invasion with the mud dauber nest in the squirrel cage. It was not cheap for the new motor that was already blown. There are exhaust vent covers available for pretty reasonable for those who don't know. (below) Do make sure that you get a good quality stainless one however, my first was a cheapo and rusted. Possibly consider buying some additional screen to cover the louvered vents (from the inside) to the water heater, genny and LPG doors. It's a nasty surprise on a sunny afternoon to open one of those doors and be greeted by an angry wasp or three. I cleaned the inside surface and used clear caulking to attach it. BTW per your "Interests" tag, like you, I love fixing stuff but am noticing that more and more of the new stuff I am buying needs fixing right out of the box. Thanks for your post and fix. BR, TG
  14. Here's an outside look for how I ended up. The clearance at the middle and up the straighter portion is about 3/4", then it tapers off. Bear in mind this is where I ended up and just my approximation of what stock should have been on my rig. Depending on your PO's work, and wear and tear, things may be different for you. Good luck, TG
  15. Hey Rick, Stopped in and saw your question/reply. I live a block from another 18' owner now, exact same model etc. and have studied other coaches as much as possible. My opinion is that none are exactly the same, at least from what I have seen. I also met a guy who worked in Vallejo at the west coast factory. He knew way too much about my rig to be blowing smoke and regaled me with "tales of the crew" for a bit. They did their best, ......most days.... The finished product, dimensions, quality of work and flaws varied and as Linda said, any previous fiberglass work can also affect how much you can correct distortions and weaknesses. I just tried to get the sides even-looking and reasonably straight. My side braces had about 1" space at the middle/apex on each side, so there is a very slight bow to both sides. I filled the gaps with foam appropriate to fiberglassing then encased most of the length, as you have seen. Linda is spot on in her observation, in my opinion. Long term force and heat over time can distort sides and roof. As she mentioned, make sure you can get a good seal on the window flanges and that they sit as flat as possible. Hope this helps. TG
  • Create New...