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ToyoGuy

Toyota Advanced Member
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About ToyoGuy

  • Rank
    Over 200 Posts!

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Fixing stuff, Family, Good tools, People with integrity (who fix stuff), Cooking, British cars and bikes, Woodworking, Fixing stuff.

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1984 Sunrader FG-180 RD 4x4
  • Location
    N. Bay, Ca

Recent Profile Visitors

938 profile views
  1. How is SunRader Lock Receiver attached?

    So my buddy paid homage to the staple god and finally removed all the carpeting from around the "lock receiver mounting board".See pix below. Because his '85 SunRader (18'er) has had the oven/stove removed, we could see that the board for the lock receiver is held in place by screws located inside inside of the panel wall to the left side of the oven. (In this inside shot, the bottom screw head is obscured by a plywood shelf the PO installed) Not having an oven in place, I couldn't swear it, but, it might be possible for a nimble person to remove the outside entry light fixture and reach through to access the screw heads instead of having to pull the oven. The screws are 2 1/2" long square socket-head configuration. Hope this helps someone who's working on a similar issue. BR, TG
  2. How is SunRader Lock Receiver attached?

    Thanks Linda, I guess I'll be peeling that formerly attractive shaggy stuff back and taking a closer look this weekend. My curiosity is killing me. If I solve the mystery. I'll report back. TG
  3. I have a friend who is a fellow '85 SunRader owner; and is trying to figure out how the bullet style lock-receiver plate is attached to the left side of the door frame of his coach. Somehow, according to him, there is a block of wood in the mix. Maybe it's glassed to the interior wall? or screwed to something? (the rig is not where I can get to it) I changed mine out to a Bargman so long ago and have forgotten, and he has not reached the "adventurously aggressive" stage of repairs yet in his quest for a well-functioning lockset. Does anyone remember how the plate is attached, or have a coach stripped down far enough to comment? Thanks for any help offered. BR, TG
  4. Thanks Linda, MW1 and Maineah, Found the correct starter and it's finally getting cooler here, so I can work on the rig and inspect all parts/areas. TG
  5. Thanks markwilliam1, It's definitely time to get a stockpile going. The days of "OEM, on the shelf" are sadly gone. I'll make the call tomorrow and see what the dealer here in Cali. wants for a rebuilt compared to Ohio price. Should be interesting...... BR, TG
  6. The gear engages the flywheel correctly to start the motor, but when the engine starts, it's like the pinion gear assy doesn't withdraw/snap-back fast enough and there's a little bit of "razzle" or slight grinding when the ring gear spins off the very end of the pinion gear, which is likely going a lot slower at that point. Sounds suspiciously like the reverse and more common problem where, when trying to start a vehicle, the starter gear occasionally grinds the flywheel, but doesn't mesh enough to fully engage to the flywheel and can't start the motor.
  7. Howdy All, I am beginning to get a "lazy" pinion gear performance from my starter. It is dis-engaging a bit slowly when it's cold and I don't want to screw-up the ring gear by leaving it that way too long. (22RE motor, standard trans) The FSM says this can be variously due to "faulty magnetic switch" or "Damaged or worn pinion gear or ring gear". Hmmm, a faulty magnetic switch, WTH? A Denso-brand reman appears to be about $45 plus shipping online.and this is not original parts pedigree. A solenoid-only repair kit online is $18 and a whole starter repair kit, with the pinion, is the price of the whole Denso rebuild. Any reason not to just replace the whole thing? Any words of whizdumb here? I have heard these starters are "bullet-proof" and well worth keeping, IF you have an OEM, but alas, I am not so equipped. Thanks for any input, BR, TG
  8. Smashed Window in Coach

    Oh yeah, Hmm, Somehow I just assumed it was a removable-slider-window and it might be a common size. Also, I confess,... when I'm in Sac, I just like shopping there for my punch-list. Heck, it's the only place I've ever seen an authentic SunRader lock assembly, complete and in good condition for sale. I shoulda bought it, but I completely changed my lockset and couldn't justify it at the time. TG
  9. Smashed Window in Coach

    Just an off-chance, you might measure it and try RV Doctor George's salvage yard up there in Sacto. Would only take a couple of minutes and you might get lucky. George is gone, but the guys there have been very helpful and the prices were reasonable the last time I was there. Good luck and sorry for your misfortune. BR, TG
  10. Rubber Roofs

    Thanks for the compliments Linda and MW1, I couldn't have done the job I did without the kind folks on this forum. Heck, I just noticed on my profile today it's been 10 years I've been a member........... Kinda makes me a little teary. D'oh ! On the other thing, guess I should consider loosing weight and start meditating on my roof, maybe then I could end up knowing half of what Linda knows about these things. On the other-other thing, sometimes I think we oughta rename that stuff "RV Wheeler's Friend". It sure works well. BR, TG
  11. Rubber Roofs

    Sorry for the lack of clarity,... Yes, the weight was the thing, EPDM as indicated by WME, it's amazing how more weight can seem to creep into these tasks as the total completion comes into sight. I had forgotten your past experience with the VeeDub, so I now realize you have a more evolved horsepower-to-weight ratio consciousness. I concur with the plywood weight distribution idea, especially at your weight class.... if you do get a rig with a flat roof. Again I was coming from a skewed SunRader perspective, and those roofs are curved. I do lean on my top, or sometimes lay over it when I,m on a ladder and I reaching to do caulking etc.and, like WME, I went the route of making up simple scaffolding that has served me many times since. I am 5' 9" though and results do vary. When all else fails,sometimes, I just get help. TG
  12. Couldn't ask for a better fit, wow.
  13. Rubber Roofs

    Hey there SOH, I applaud your careful research and wish I myself had asked more questions before I took the plunge. It would have saved me a lot of $ and grief. This might be a good time to decide whether you are including a roof that you expect to walk on, as an item on your list of requirements for your RV. I have an 18' SunRader and, at 160 lbs, I have been able to successfully navigate any maintenance or repair tasks (including scraping off large amounts of every imaginable goop and sealer from the roof around the vents and removing an A/C unit), without needing to try to walk on the roof. I understand the sirens-call of this particular temptation, but would never do this on my rig, even though I installed reinforcements and re-arched the ceiling during the restoration. Personally, I would add the statement "of course you can walk on the roof of this C class RV!" to the list of reassurances: "the check's in the mail", "I'll respect you in the morning" and "I'm from your government and I'm here to help you". That said, I realize that we all have different needs and loading skills, but personally, I just don't think the risk of stressing all that reinforcement and cabinet work is worth it. Also, and related to this, though not many seem inclined to the EPDM solution, I found it useful during my searches for even the smallest solutions to any fixes or modifications, to relentlessly ask myself, "how much does it weigh?". I was then new to the principle that every time I drive my RV, I am paying again to haul all my solutions around with me. Just some thoughts, they were helpful for me. BR, TG
  14. Sunrader Body Screws

    Heating the screws is an old trick I have used on nails, screws, bolts etc that are stuck in old steel, wood, plastic and other stuff. If there's enough of the fastener shaft left, it seems to break the rust bond, glue or any sealant that may have been used originally, or sometimes just a really tight fit. It worked well on stubborn old fiberglass bonded by rust. As usual, normal tool cautions apply. You can usually smell when things get warm enough to loosen-up. I used an old pistol-type Weller brand soldering gun, not sure if the little pencil-type would have enough power. TG
  15. Sunrader Body Screws

    From what I've seen,the most common "too-long" offenders seem to be ones located below the side windows in the cab-over sleeper. Two of them per side usually completely penetrate the shell and screw about 1/2" into the horizontal strips of plywood that the sleeper side paneling is attached to. I had difficulty removing all the old rusty ones to replace with stainless until I hit on heating them up with a good high wattage soldering gun. Then they backed out quite nicely. Out of all, I think I might have had to repair 3 or 4 of the holes with a bit of resin and flock powder and re-drill. I also blew out crud from the others with about 40 psi compressed air, then pre-loaded each of the holes with caulk before putting the new screws in. Worked for me, BR, TG
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