Awkray-ven Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I just purchased a 1985 Toyota Dolphin, and have a few projects I want to work on (well, many projects, but a few in the near future). Based on other's experience, what is the best way to run wires though the body of the coach? I want to install a backup camera on it, as well as a solar panel setup, I want to add a Tachometer, the one guide I found said there should be a green wire attached to one of the green cylinders near the corner of the drivers side of the front windshield, under the hood. I found two cylinders, but no unused wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 4 hours ago, Awkray-ven said: I want to add a Tachometer, the one guide I found said there should be a green wire attached to one of the green cylinders near the corner of the drivers side of the front windshield, under the hood. I found two cylinders, but no unused wires. I have no idea what the "green cylinders" are that you are referring to. Wire-harness connectors maybe? I put a tach on my 1988 Toyota two years ago and it was about as easy as it gets. Tach cost me around $12. Has two wires NOT counting the light-wire. One goes to NEG and one goes to POS on the ignition coil. Has a switch that can be set to either 4, 6, or 8 cylinder. I guess if you have a 3 or 5 cylinder, you are out of luck. It has worked great. One thing I got from China that seems better then expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 3's OK just half speed 6. It doesn't have trigger wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 29 minutes ago, Maineah said: 3's OK just half speed 6. It doesn't have trigger wire? Thank goodness 5 cylinder engines are didn't become popular. It would be too much mental math. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 V10's??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 On 8/17/2016 at 11:39 AM, Awkray-ven said: I just purchased a 1985 Toyota Dolphin, and have a few projects I want to work on (well, many projects, but a few in the near future). Based on other's experience, what is the best way to run wires though the body of the coach? I want to install a backup camera on it, as well as a solar panel setup, I want to add a Tachometer, the one guide I found said there should be a green wire attached to one of the green cylinders near the corner of the drivers side of the front windshield, under the hood. I found two cylinders, but no unused wires. If there is a good way to run wires through coach, I have not found it. I am now running a wire from the electrical panel to rear of coach and doing it by going through the floor and attaching to frame with wire ties and whatever else is at hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 2 minutes ago, jjrbus said: If there is a good way to run wires through coach, I have not found it. I am now running a wire from the electrical panel to rear of coach and doing it by going through the floor and attaching to frame with wire ties and whatever else is at hand. I think that it might vary on different makes and models. I ran a micro 75 ohm video cable front to back and the hardest part was the cab. Even the cab though was just a matter of removing the sill and window pillar plastics and sneaking it up through the headliner. The house side there is the two benches of the dinette then the cabinet for the fridge that has also has the furnace. Past that it is just the shower pan then across to the sink base over to the closet. Thing is there is plenty of space under everything but the furnace. Even then, I managed to route it around along with a bunch of other power wires I ran. It helped that I have both spring metal and firberglass snakes. On mine it was easy peasy. So you have to look at it carefully. I can only presume there are variations in how difficult this task is. My camera is now pretty outdated. I replaced the small display screen with a 7 inch model but know that I can get a better camera these days. Plus I'd like to have a camera view from higher up looking down at the bumper and what is behind me. This season is wrapping up so perhaps next spring. So something to consider when choosing both a camera and display. The little display was certainly cheap but the image quality made its usefulness limited. Same with the camera which is still available 5 years after I bought mine but still stupid cheap. So I suggest moving up at least beyond the cheapest models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 I haven't done/tried this, but if/when I do, I'd first investigate adding the new wires to the existing wire 'bundle' that connects the rear lights (running/brake/reverse) to the cab up front. And there's the wireless option, though they seem to get mixed reviews. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 9 minutes ago, Derek up North said: I haven't done/tried this, but if/when I do, I'd first investigate adding the new wires to the existing wire 'bundle' that connects the rear lights (running/brake/reverse) to the cab up front. And there's the wireless option, though they seem to get mixed reviews. Perhaps it is just my background but in the AV world, you don't run video or audio wires parallel with power. Now DC is not usually a problem but with so much switch mode power supplies adding noise to the spectrum, I still avoid this. This was beat into my head from my earliest recording studio engineering days and even with the advent of digital, as an industry we still follow this protocol. As the song lyrics go, "got to keep them separated". Hard to believe that like me, that song is now old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Could well be true. I'm just a 'hacker' and will (happily ) believe what you write. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 With all the giga watt amps out there, thank God for shielded mic/audio cables Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaineErik Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 4 hours ago, Back East Don said: As the song lyrics go, "got to keep them separated". Hard to believe that like me, that song is now old. Ha! I was in Jr High when that song was popular, or was it HS... either way, it was a surprisingly long time ago! The vinyl floor in our cab is barely attached to the metal body, I'd think going under with new wires would be easier than going overhead. That's my plan when it comes to installing some rear speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Back East Don Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 23 minutes ago, MaineErik said: Ha! I was in Jr High when that song was popular, or was it HS... either way, it was a surprisingly long time ago! The vinyl floor in our cab is barely attached to the metal body, I'd think going under with new wires would be easier than going overhead. That's my plan when it comes to installing some rear speakers. The up and over via the headliner from the front drivers side kickpanel up to the rear view mirror was only because I wanted to mount the 7" monitor for the back up camera. The wire runs back are pretty easy on ours. You could run wires from the front of the cab all the way around the drivers side, across the back, through the bottom of the closet all the way up to that accessory cabinet next to the house door without much trouble at all. The part under the furnace and then through the underside of the shower pan being the hardest part. Some tie wraps to keep things out of the way. Plus on mine there was an access panel to get under the shower pan. Don't know if your is the same but it should be really close as mine is only a year apart. How did the tires work out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naganthunter Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 (edited) I have run a lot of wires. I have run them everywhere. Each has been a major pain in the neck. I was lucky in that I was replacing roof vents, so I had access under the metal roof for some audio and to tap into some existing 12v wires. I also had to open up a lot of walls and cabinets to hide them properly. I HATE loose wiring. Improvise, adapt, and overcome. Edited August 20, 2016 by naganthunter rmoved photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaineErik Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 On 8/19/2016 at 3:15 PM, Back East Don said: How did the tires work out? Still waiting on parts to replace the broken wheel studs... all I need now are the M14-1.5 nuts to lock the studs onto the hubs, which I should be able to find a the hardware store, and of course to put the whole assembly all back together. Then return for the tires - and this time there will be no excuse for tech if he breaks another stud, augh! The new Goforms on the front look really nice though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 On 8/18/2016 at 8:33 PM, Back East Don said: Thank goodness 5 cylinder engines are didn't become popular. It would be too much mental math. Just two wires. One goes to NEG on the coil and other to the POS on the coil. Same hook-up as much of my old Allen test equipment hooks up for "tach and dwell" readings. Has a three-position switch. 4, 6, or 8 cylinder. So I guess if you have a car like a 1973 Honda AN600 with a two-cylinder engine - you are out of luck. Same for 3, 5, 10s, or my old Jaguar V12. Also any newer cars and trucks with multiple coils are also out. I never heard of a tach needing a trigger as long as it is designed for a gas engine with just one coil. Diesels - yes. Triggers or alternator stator-taps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 On 8/18/2016 at 8:33 PM, Back East Don said: Thank goodness 5 cylinder engines are didn't become popular. It would be too much mental math. Supposedly - the advantage to a 3 or 5 cylinder engine is natural balance. Unlike a four-cylinder that has lots of balance problems. In fact, many larger fours have to use balancing boxes or balancing shafts to keep them from shaking apart at certain RPMs. Toyota seems to have done a good job without added balancers though. Anyone remember Plymouth's "Silent Shaft Arrow" in 1976 with the "silent shaft", 2 liter four-banger? It was Japanese, but Mitsubishi, not Toyota. John Deere did the same in most of their four-cylinder tractor engines. Some of those Winnebago Rialta RVs have 5 cylinder VW engines. Not sure how well they have held up. I don't see many. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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