1986 Toyota Savannah Travelmaster

[zero]

1 hour ago, Maineah said:

I don't get it. There are hundreds of rebuild shops all over the country the 22R/RE engine is not rocket science it's just a simple engine any automotive machine shop worth their salt shop can rebuild it. We are not talking about a F1 engine truning 12 grand.

And . . how does one know who is good?   When I worked as a full time mechanic - we had several machine shops we used on almost a daily basis.  Subsequently, when they got maybe a new employee who was an idiot - we found out quick. Now??   Here is one example.   I used to do ALL my own machine work except crankshaft grinding. Over the years I sold off most of my equipment.  Too expensive to maintain.  Last year I was rebuilding my own 144 c.i. diesel.  I took my four connecting rods to a local auto machine-shop that used to be the best around.  I took the rods in JUST to have the big-ends resized.  That means caps closed a bit by shaving, and then bored to be round back to standard size.  I got a phone call two days after dropping them off.  The owner of the shop told me "bad news."   All four rods were ruined.  Long story short - the new owner did not even know how to calibrate a micrometer and his 3" mike was near 1/16th off.   Modern engines rely on many high-tech processes that many small shops cannot do. Like boring a block under stress (using a deck-plate).  Rehardening crankshaft journals after grinding (Tuff-Riding), etc.

[Totem]

At the end of the day, I dont care what BBB report you quote , putney's are the best if you are going to do a reman. But as mentioned in the very first quote that started this argument, you wont get better than factory original. And Fred heath recommended to someone to ditch a 24,000 mile OEM motor in favor of a reman. You want to argue on your reman is better than Putney? Thats another conversation that you will lose. Putneys builds are well known in the crawler and taco community to be hand down the best.

And if derek is gonna blame Thanksgiving for the bad build I gave example of, then counting 7 days back from Jan 7th I'd say I got a better excuse being new years day. LOL

 

[Derek up North]

21 minutes ago, Totem said:

And if derek is gonna blame Thanksgiving for the bad build ...

Which I did NOT do. I merely pointed out the complaint (about not getting a reply for 4 days) was made on the Monday following the 4 day Thanksgiving long weekend. From my time living and working in the US, I don't find it unusual that all but retail outlets don't answer their phones for the 4 days. Your experience might well differ.

Suddenly, it appears convenient to ignore complaints to the BBB?? LOL

[Totem]

I don't see anyone defending the idea of selling off a 24,000 mile original motor in any event, which was the advice I would still steer clear from.

[zero]

I'm getting a little lost in all this digital mayhem. One note though.  An engine with "24K original miles" might be more worn then another engine with 150K miles.  24K miles over a long span of years might mean an awful lot of short trips and it is the cold-start-to-hot-drive cycle the puts most of the wear on the typical engine. I inherited my mom's car years ago with 40K miles.  A 1970 Nova with a 307 V8 and in 1995 it had 40K miles and was worn out. What a piece of junk.

[fred heath]

Just to be clear......... I never advocated the use of a rebuilt engine over a low mileage used engine. I only put it out there for consideration by the OP. Bottom line is bottom line.

Totem immediately jumped on the thread proclaiming rebuilts were bad, and the OP should disregard my statement. He then started extolling his vast research on the subject including the use of the BBB.

Now we see his "great company" has a B- rating. While the company I chose based solely on an internet search, got an A+ rating.

I asked for verifiable proof. Guess I won't be seeing that. ?

The purpose of this forum is to introduce other thoughts and advice to members with questions. The OP can then make a decision based on the different suggestions offered.

If your opinion differs from mine, that's fine.

But you attack me by name, and suggest my information is wrong, you better be prepared to back it up with hard facts.

The only down side I can see to the swap is how many rubber components and seals have dried out and will need to be replaced. That and finding someplace that will take the remains.

[Derek up North]

On 2016-07-21 at 10:48 AM, swimbikerun247 said:

Hi guys,

I have an 86 Toyota 4Runner that I've decided to put a new motor in.  I also have an 86 Toyota Savannah Travelmaster with a 22RE and only 24,000 miles.  I want to take the 22RE from the motorhome to put in my 4runner.  Would there be any value in the Travelmaster without a motor?  What would it be worth?  It does have the upgraded rear axle.  I'm in Andalusia, AL and don't expect alot but have no idea where to begin.  There is a water leak and the door to the camper is messed up.

Well, since the original question has long since been forgotten and the OP probably scared off from ever posting again, lets try to give some more answers/opinions.

As far as I remember, it's been suggested '$500' and 'you'll get more parting it out'.

[Wade]

I feel bad reading the apparent ill will between Fred and Totem and now trying to drag  Putney's down as well.  Frankly I have learned useful info from all of the above.  The effort Jerry put into the website at 22re performance.com saved me a whole bunch of time and effort and Jerry was very helpful over the phone as well.  Not sure what to make of the BBB report quoted. I only know my personal experience with that business and it is first class.  For the life of me I can't understand why their website isn't listed as a sticky in the Engines section of this forum as everything we need is so clearly laid out with OEM parts by someone who clearly knows what they are doing.  Instead we get an indirect attempt to trash their hard earned good name by an unknown letter to the BBB.

Wade

[Totem]

51 minutes ago, fred heath said:

Just to be clear......... I never advocated the use of a rebuilt engine over a low mileage used engine. I only put it out there for consideration by the OP. Bottom line is bottom line.

Totem immediately jumped on the thread proclaiming rebuilts were bad, and the OP should disregard my statement. He then started extolling his vast research on the subject including the use of the BBB.

Now we see his "great company" has a B- rating. While the company I chose based solely on an internet search, got an A+ rating.

I asked for verifiable proof. Guess I won't be seeing that. ?

The purpose of this forum is to introduce other thoughts and advice to members with questions. The OP can then make a decision based on the different suggestions offered.

If your opinion differs from mine, that's fine.

But you attack me by name, and suggest my information is wrong, you better be prepared to back it up with hard facts.

The only down side I can see to the swap is how many rubber components and seals have dried out and will need to be replaced. That and finding someplace that will take the remains.

You are on record as saying putney is crap.. that in itself is priceless... so 1 bad report from some aircraft mech that clearly is complaining about the disposable after market add ons like carbs gets a B- and 2 bad reports get an A+ on a shop that cant get bolts drilled correctly on the block? LOFL

yes i advised not to follow your advice, I stand by it. you can try to rewrite history but fact remains, OP said he had an OEM 24k and you advised him to sell it to "buy" a reman and have the reman installed after selling the toy. The suggested price of the rig was 1500 and we all know the absolute cheapest reman is $1600, plus he will now need to pay the to and from on both. No, I stand by my original, statement. Junk advice. And for the record Jim Putneys motors are, supposedly the best remans that can be had in the US and the one bad report they have complains on carbs and parts not the machining.

By all means buy a reman from your "source", and let us know how it goes. I have one on order already from 22reperformance.com and it will NOT be going into my RV until my OEM is dead and gone.

Its more of an insurance policy at this point but as mine is a 22re and not a 22r its no worry to me on carb quality anyway. You are now grasping at straws claiming the "seals" on an oem are bad at 24k.. even if they are, i'd take that over shoddy machining as you would potentially have suggested for him to take on as a risk.  I'm sorry you perceive yourself as being attacked but that's your own insecurity at giving bad advice to an OP that clearly has no interest in the RV and has a decent motor on hand as a donor for a perfect mate in a vehicle that would actually get used and enjoyed.

You yourself made the quote, everyone has an opinion, just so happens i advised against heeding yours. My logic is sound. Why risk any reman even at 22reperformance.com...when you have a good runner? now go on, refute that, because that's reality.

I tire of debating you on this, because you FAIL to address the very reasons i told him your advice not worth acting on, which it assuredly is not.

[zero]

I don't know anything about the engine place being discussed. I will comment as thus.  Putting a "sticky" in would look like an endorsement to me.  That might lead to some negative feelings if some people had some bad experiences.  That's what happened with Trailer Life Magazine when they started treating a repair shop in California as the "go to place" for RV engine issues.   Once a few people seemed to get screwed, it really backfired on the magazine. That was Geraghty Performance in Newbury Park, California.  The magazine even went as far as giving the guy his own column for awhile.

[Totem]

2 hours ago, jdemaris said:

I'm getting a little lost in all this digital mayhem. One note though.  An engine with "24K original miles" might be more worn then another engine with 150K miles.  24K miles over a long span of years might mean an awful lot of short trips and it is the cold-start-to-hot-drive cycle the puts most of the wear on the typical engine. I inherited my mom's car years ago with 40K miles.  A 1970 Nova with a 307 V8 and in 1995 it had 40K miles and was worn out. What a piece of junk.

"  An engine with "24K original miles" might be more worn then another engine with 150K miles.   "

yeah ... no. this is a toyota not a Chevy... you had me till then.

[Derek up North]

1 hour ago, Derek up North said:

Well, since the original question has long since been forgotten and the OP probably scared off from ever posting again, lets try to give some more answers/opinions.

As far as I remember, it's been suggested '$500' and 'you'll get more parting it out'.

Enough already! ANY further post/attack that does not address the original question, I will delete.

[zero]

Just now, Totem said:

Would there be any value in the Travelmaster without a motor?  What would it be worth? 

in case you have lost site of that.

I'd buy it for parts assuming it came with the FF rear and other goodies inside.  Especially if the Toyota part was relatively rust-free.  Like I said earlier, worth around $500 to me.  That's my standard price for such things.  The rear alone might  bring that with the right person needing it.

[86rader]

If the coach was in very good shape, I would say keep it all together. Sounds like it ain't. Seems to me this thing is worth less than the sum of its parts. You have a very low mileage factory motor and a place to put it. You can then part out the rest.

I looked at a rig the other day that likely falls into this category. It is a 4x4 Odyssey V-6 5 speed. Coach is kinda rough. I suspect if you yanked it off and made it into a flatbed it would be worth more. Especially since you could sell the rather nice looking Onan generator. She told me it worked well and was recently serviced.