Kale Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 My Toy has some rust. When I bought it I knew there was body rust, thought it all appears to be on the surface. Today I was crawling underneath and realized that there is far more on the underbody than I realized. (Yes, I'm an idiot and should have inspected it better before buying.) Nothing looks to be rusted through. I'm pretty much a complete noob when it comes to this sort of thing, so I'm wondering how bad this is. I realize that eventually the rust is going to eat through everything, but is it alright for the time being as long as it's solid? Is there anything I should do to slow down the progression? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Solid? OK structural rust! Most things metal will rust. Where I come from in NY with road salt used every where the old guys sprayed their cars with used motor oil. Some used new oil with kerosene mixed in. I used new oil with scented lamp oil mixed in. Lamp oil is deodorized kerosene. On my Toy I am going to use a product called Fluid Film. There are many online articles about how to use oil or fluid film on cars to preserve them. This one sprays it on, I will use a brush and garden sprayer to get into voids. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJSnBJDHT74 Lot's of videos online about this or using oil and other products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Jim, Interesting suggestion. I was planning on hitting mine with a mix of motor oil and marvel mystery oil but may also do the lamp oil thing. Can't stand the smell of kerosene. Reason for going with Fluid Film vs the simple oil mix? The rust thing is on my list but still way to many things to get done first;-) Wade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 4 minutes ago, Wade said: Jim, Interesting suggestion. I was planning on hitting mine with a mix of motor oil and marvel mystery oil but may also do the lamp oil thing. Can't stand the smell of kerosene. Reason for going with Fluid Film vs the simple oil mix? The rust thing is on my list but still way to many things to get done first;-) Wade Thought I would try something different and spreading oil all over is not kosher anymore. The straps holding tanks on, including propane are pretty thin, I would get to them if nothing else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kale Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Good info, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 use por15 will stop it dead in its tracks if you follow the directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 might consider ospho http://www.ospho.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 POR15 , if done properly uses ospho prior to painting. (they call it metal bright or something but its the same stuff) just using ospho is not enough; gotta seal it after. if you have ever used por15 you know its tough as nails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 The most common ingredient of the 'rust killers' (including Ospho) is phosphoric acid. https://www.google.ca/search?q=rust+killer+phosphoric+acid&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=0RZsV8XYIcfY-gH7hY2IAQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 20 hours ago, jjrbus said: Thought I would try something different and spreading oil all over is not kosher anymore. The straps holding tanks on, including propane are pretty thin, I would get to them if nothing else Since I now live in the city I was planning on laying out some plastic and using new oil vs used;-) Should be able to catch everything and be reasonably kosher. I remember in college I worked in farm service and got a metal tool box. Didn't take very long of using it in silos for it to rust out at the hinge. Soaked it in oil and the rust stopped. Looked terrible rusted but held for years whereas it was going to self-destruct in a matter of months before I put the oil on it. I like the idea of the POR15 but recognize my limitation of time and access. Would be more work than I would be willing to do to have it done right. Hopefully the oil will get me the same benefit without as much work. According to the coachbuilder I am supposed to go under it every 90 days and look for any rust or corrosion and fix any that is found. Too bad no one did that! This rig spent most of its life in NY or CT so there is rust but thankfully it does not appear to be too bad. There is a little spot on the windshield that I will likely use one of the paint based products on and the worst is on part of the dash. Not sure how I am going to deal with that. Wade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 POR 15 has its uses and is a great product. No one has been able to explain to me how to get it inside a frame or window pillar. Tank straps are a good example how do you get a product between the tank and strap? The oils will seep in there! I have used a bit of FLuid Film and can vouch that it travels a great distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Motor oil is illegal nation wide to use on vehicles it is toxic. Putting used motor oil on anything metal makes no sense to me it was drained for a reason it's full of bad stuff that does metal no good. POR 15 and fluid film is a non toxic mix they both work quite well it will not remove rust but it will stop it. I use FF on my farm stuff and all the vehicles a Wagner electric sprayer works fine for both. The older Toyota frame did rust but they never seemed to rust thru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugabago Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 POR 15 is a fantastic product. I used it on the rebuild of my galavan quite a bit. In fact the driver side floor in the cab is made entirely of POR 15 and fiberglass cloth. It will pay off for anyone who is trying to extend the life of a motorhome to become familiar with it. If you are dealing with rust in an enclosed area, 3M makes a product called Rust Fighter 1 that is specifically designed for door posts and bottoms, rocker panels or anywhere that might start rusting from the inside. It comes in a rattle can with a straw for reaching through weep holes. I sprayed this stuff into the bottoms of my doors after I rebuilt them and into the rocker panels also. I sprayed a test piece to see what it looks like after a while and found that it never really dries completely. I think this is the genius of the stuff. It will never crack letting water get past it, or vibrate off the metal. I use it on all of my vehicles now, new or used. It is simple to use and is definitely worth a try in my opinion. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 'Waxoyl' is a product favoured by the vintage car crowd. It has spread beyond MG & Triumph owners. If you're on a lower budget, there are DIY recipes. https://www.google.ca/search?q=diy+waxoyl+recipe&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=rTZtV7GCPMzFmwHk3rCgAw Wax and oil. That's it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 12 hours ago, jjrbus said: POR 15 has its uses and is a great product. No one has been able to explain to me how to get it inside a frame or window pillar. Tank straps are a good example how do you get a product between the tank and strap? The oils will seep in there! I have used a bit of FLuid Film and can vouch that it travels a great distance. I find its quite viscous and will penetrate cracks with ease often to my dismay at times. It can be sprayed also with a shults or other air gun, but count on throwing that gun away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 1 hour ago, Maineah said: Motor oil is illegal nation wide to use on vehicles it is toxic. Putting used motor oil on anything metal makes no sense to me it was drained for a reason it's full of bad stuff that does metal no good. POR 15 and fluid film is a non toxic mix they both work quite well it will not remove rust but it will stop it. I use FF on my farm stuff and all the vehicles a Wagner electric sprayer works fine for both. The older Toyota frame did rust but they never seemed to rust thru. Actually, if you go the POR15 route I would heavily advise a chemical respirator. POR15 is toxic as hell on the nervous system. Definately use respirators when using phosphoric acids also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 7 hours ago, Maineah said: Motor oil is illegal nation wide to use on vehicles it is toxic. Putting used motor oil on anything metal makes no sense to me it was drained for a reason it's full of bad stuff that does metal no good. POR 15 and fluid film is a non toxic mix they both work quite well it will not remove rust but it will stop it. I use FF on my farm stuff and all the vehicles a Wagner electric sprayer works fine for both. The older Toyota frame did rust but they never seemed to rust thru. Seriously? As has already pointed out, doing POR 15 is anything but non-toxic. Here is the msds for FF http://www.fluid-film.com/downloads/SDS_NAS.pdf Here is the msds for motor oil. http://www.apauto.com/SDS Branded/Motor Oil/Shell RotellaT/ROTL 154055CJ4.pdf They are both petroleum distillate products that are listed as non-toxic. I already said that I am not planning to use used motor oil. As a matter of fact, I recently purchased custom machined billets for the head of my 22RE to eliminate the persistent leaks from the valve cover / head junctions. In addition to that, I am replacing all fittings on the valve cover as well as the entire PCV system hoses and valve. My guess is that my Toy will be somewhat less toxic than most. Wade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 I may just go to the homemade waxoil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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