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Last Thursday, the fan shroud (which, unnoticed by me had apparently been repaired by a former owner with electrical tape) came free, flexed while I was underway, and shattered the fan, which took out the radiator, a hose, and some other things. I had it towed to a place in Laramie. They replaced the radiator, fan, fan clutch and shroud, and one hose. I got underway again yesterday on what's supposed to be a six to eight week trip. Prior to all this, when it was running warm uphill, the needle rose halfway or just a little beyond, and then went back down on the downhill. (I seldom use AC and never uphill). Now, the needle rises just perilously close to the red. I am attaching a photo of the new stuff. The old fan did not have that surrounding piece - just the blades. Is this the wrong fan, or what do you think? Any suggestions appreciated!

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This is the part number I come up with for a 90's dually truck with drawing of the fan. No circle around the blades.

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~fan~16361-65010.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Pickup&Year=1992&Submodel=2+Wheel+Drive-JPP&Filter=(d=USA;1=3VZE;4=STD;5=ATM;6=4HC;7=RCB;8=WT;9=HLF;13=IV6;14=T1)&Location=radiator-water-outlet,,16361

Have you checked to see if your alternator belt is tight though. Same belt turns water pump I think.

Linda S

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Just went out to look at my '91 (which is a V6). When we took it to the toyota dealer among the many parts replaced was the fan clutch. That fan ring had some nicks and gouges in it , the new one which looks exactly like the one in your picture does not. No cracks in the fan shroud, thank goodness :)

PS: did the wrong thermostat get installed, another thing I've seen is on some cars you can put the thermostat in backwards, it doesn't work well like that. Another thought, the mechanic said it's hard to "burp" the cooling system, ie remove all the air from the cooling system. It will not cool properly until that is done. On these boards someone has posted how to do that.

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The last time I changed coolant, I had a hard time getting all the air out of the system. The needle kept going really high up after a mile. Finally, I removed the top hose from the radiator and poured fluid directly into the open end of the hose. Cool after that.

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I doubt the fan has anything to with your problem. Most vehicles don't need a fan at all except when they are stopped at a red light or climbing a long steep hill very slowly. The fan you describe sounds like what Toyota sells for your rig OEM anyway. But I bet you could remove your fan and never see a difference if all you did was highway driving with no stops. I'd suspect air in the system, or maybe head-gasket damage from the last break-down. I'm amazed that after all that work they did not stick a new $25 water-pump in. It's got a sealed bearing and they all fall apart at a certain mile-point.

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I understand why they did not change the water pump - it is a big deal to get to it. Timing belt has to come off.

My guess is that the water coolant system was not properly refilled. If that is the case, after it cools off take the radiator cap off - it will be quite low. These systems do have some air pockets that can be hard to clear.

Make sure there is water in the overflow reservoir - if the system is tight it will draw back in while cooling down.

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Water pump timing belt and such is BIG job on V6. As long as I had radiator and such out, might have been good time?

I am not a mechanic only sharing my recent experience with this, I did it before running so have no over heating experience to share.

2 pictures, one is the fan and such on my 93 V6 the other is the heater shutoff valve on fire wall is easy to access,hoses might come off easy, mine did and is good place to burp engine.

Do not do with hot engine, wear steel toed shoes, hearing and eye protection with titanium gloves, do not stick sharp tools in ears or eye's. Do not do in middle of highway or in enclosed garage with unit running.

HTH Jim

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After my last water-pump disaster I would not intentionally drive any car or truck with a water-pump with unknown hours or miles. As a rule-of-thumb, I change all my water-pumps at 100K miles unless they feel absolutely perfect. I broke my own rule when I had my wife drive our 1988 Minicuiser from NY to MI. I had no history on service for it. So I took off the belts and checked all idler bearings, alternator bearings, and especially the water-pump bearing. Well - even though all felt fine- the water-pump let loose 300 miles later. Sent the fan though the radiator and also resulted in a blown head-gasket. I was driving a moving truck and there was no way to fix myself. The whole fiasco wound up costing me around $3000. ALL because of a $25 water-pump that I should of installed before the trip.

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Thanks all, for such good suggestions. Linda, that's a new belt, and feels nice and tight. The coolant "burping", though, sounds like a possibility. The shattering fan took out the upper hose, which the shop didn't catch. I discovered it when I'd driven a couple miles, went to NAPA and got a hose, and took it back. They installed the new hose and topped up at the radiator cap with a bottle of coolant/water mix, with the engine running. Better look deeper at that. The engine is a Jasper rebuild with ~30K on it, so I don't suspect the water pump...yet. Thanks again.

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