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1987 Toyota Four Cylinder Or V6


Adam1230

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I found an 87 toyota four cylinder for 5500. I plan to travel the usa with it and my question is will I have problems going up hill with such a small engine. I will be traveling for a year, and doing my best to keep the weight down. Should I buy it or hold out for a v6?

I'm not sure if I posted in the right spot but if anyone has driven one could you please help me. I really want it but do not want to get ahead of myself. Thank you!

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I had a 86 Escaper with the 22RE. Ive been over a 12,000 ft pass with it. With one wife and 2 dogs.

So you will be slow but you will get there.

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I had an underpowered motor home once and never again. My buddy Fred has a 4cyl standard and is happy as a clam with it. Different strokes.

The 6 is harder to work on and not as fuel efficient. I don't care. MPG was not the deciding factor in my purchase.

Going up to Kings Canyon park, thinking, I think I can, I think I can, like the little engine that could is not for me.

If you plan on putting on 15 or 20,000 mi in one year, I can see where MPG might be a deciding factor. Jim

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I have an "88 Escaper with 22Re and automatic. I get anywhere I want to go. I have been to 11,000 ft several times without problem. I would make sure that you have a tachometer. Let the little engine spin up and don't lug it. The engine will spin all day but if you do lug it, you will probably need an overhaul.

I usually travel at 55 mph unless I get into hills and then I slow to 45 mph in second gear. I rarely us overdrive because it feels like I have to push harder on the gas pedal to maintain speed when it hit OD.

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V6 but the 4 is also pretty good. Many are happy with the 4, which seems to last much longer, easier and cheaper to work on. V6 is going for much higher $ usually depending on condition. More after market parts for the 4 though e.g. high output alternator

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Just Imports: Toyota R-Series
By Dan Minick

Toyota has built numerous four cylinder engine families over the
years, but one that has been in use for quite a long time is the R-
series. The R-series has been the main motor used in almost all
Toyota pick-up trucks, as well as the rear-wheel-drive (RWD) Celica
and Coronas.

The 20R was introduced in 1975 and used up until 1980. In 1981 the
larger bore 22R was released. The R-series has a cast iron block,
aluminum head, and is an overhead camshaft (OHC) design with the cam
being driven by a timing chain.

The oil pump is mounted on the front timing cover and slips over the
end of the crankshaft where it is driven by a splined gear at the end
of the crank. The 20/22Rs were used in only RWD applications, never
in a front-wheel-drive (FWD) vehicle. So when the RWD Corona was
replaced in the U.S. by the FWD Camry in 1983, and the Celica went to
front wheel drive in 1986, the only vehicles that continued to use
the 22R were the pick-ups and the 4-Runner sport utility vehicles.
However, there are quite a few older Toyota pick-ups still being used
today and they seem to hold resale value fairly well, which should
provide some demand for rebuilding the 22R engines.

One common mistake many people make when rebuilding this engine is to
assume that 20R means 2.0L and 22R means 2.2L. Remember that in
Toyota's numbering system the first number is the revision of that
particular engine family, which does not pertain to displacement. The
20R is a 2.2L (2189cc), while the 22R is a 2.4L (2367cc) engine.
There also is a 21R that was used in Japan and Europe with a
displacement of 2.0L, but for our purposes we don't need to discuss
it.

20R, 21R and 22R engine specs

20R: 2189cc (88.5mm X 89mm),1975-'80, used in pick-ups, Celicas and Coronas.

21R: 1972cc (84mm X 89mm), used in overseas markets and not available in the U.S.

22R, 22RE, 22REC, 22RTEC: 2367cc (92mm X 89mm), used in 1981-'94 pick-
ups, 4-Runners, Celicas through 1985, and Coronas through 1982.

1981-'82

The 22R was introduced in 1981 on the Corona, Celica and pick-ups
replacing the smaller bore 20R. The crankshaft and connecting rods
were carry-over parts from the 20R. The cylinder head was a
hemispherical chamber with canted valves.

The rocker arm assembly was held on by the head bolts (see Photo 1).
The overhead camshaft was driven by a double roller chain. For 1982
the motor stayed the same, with no changes.

1983-'84

In 1983 several changes were made.

Main bearing alignment tangs were changed, requiring the use of
different main bearings (see Photo 2).

Timing components were changed from the double roller to a single
roller chain and sprockets, different guides, tensioner, and a
splined drive for the oil pump (see Photo 3).


Some models had fuel injection, but the only difference was the
addition of some extra bolt holes to the intake manifold side for the
EFI intake. This head will retro-fit back to the 1981-'82 head, but
you can't use the earlier head on an EFI '83-'84 model.

1985-'94

The 1985 model year was one of numerous changes for the 22R.
Carbureted and EFI models both were continued, and all the changes
made apply to both fueled versions.

The block deck height was lowered from 11.312" (287mm) in the earlier
blocks, i.e., 1981-'84, to 11.062" (281mm) on the 1985-'94 blocks.
This is only ¼", and can be very difficult to tell even when the
earlier and later model blocks are placed side-by-side. The best way
to tell them apart is to physically measure the height (see Photo 4).

Front cover depth was decreased while the oil pump thickness was
increased. The front crank seal position is the same distance from
the front of the block (3.00"). Formerly (1981-'84), the cover was
1.715" from the front of the block to the oil pump mounting surface,
while the oil pump was 1.290" deep. In 1985 the cover was 1.435" from
the front of the block to the oil pump mounting surface, and the oil
pump was 1.570" deep (see Photo 5 and Photo 6).

Timing remained as the single roller that was introduced in 1983,
however, due to the shorter block, the timing chain and guides were
shortened. The chain was shortened from 98 links to 96 links. The
curved guide was changed slightly in its curvature, and the mounting
bolts used now featured a longer shank bolt.

The straight guide was shortened slightly and the bolt holes were
moved closer together, i.e., inside-to-inside 3.020" vs. 3.225" for
the '83-'84 guide. This guide looks practically identical to the
earlier one, and even several parts suppliers have had trouble
getting it right. The top hole is elongated and, consequently, many
people think that makes it universal for both applications. However,
they won't align with the bolt holes on the block (see Photo 7).

The cylinder head had numerous changes to it for 1985. The combustion
chamber was made smaller and was now kidney shaped. The exhaust ports
were also changed from round to pear shaped (see Photo 8).

Thrust washers were made thicker, and the third (center) main was
narrowed by the same amount (see Photo 2). The crankshaft remained the same.

All of the changes made in 1985 continued through the end of the 22R
in 1994.

1985-'88 turbo motor

In 1985 during the height of the turbocharged engine's popularity,
Toyota introduced a turbo version of the 22R in its pick-ups and 4-
Runners (22RTEC). The differences included a unique cylinder head
with a combustion chamber larger than the kidney shaped chamber
introduced in 1985, but smaller than the old 1981-'84 head (see Photo 9).

There are only five different variations in long blocks. If timing
isn't furnished, and one isn't concerned about the bearing difference
being correct, the first two applications can be combined if
carbureted. The turbo motor isn't that common, however. If one is
needed, the head can be nearly impossible to find.

The new pear shaped exhaust ports were used. The block was the new
low deck block with an oil drain back hole and oil pressure feed on
the left hand side for the turbocharger. The normally aspirated
blocks have a casting for the drain back and can be drilled and bolt
holes tapped if necessary. All other changes that were made in 1985
also apply to the turbo motor.

The 1985-'94 non-turbo engine should be the most popular application
for several years to come. It covers almost a full 10 years,
something almost unheard of even for domestic applications.

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Even with an automatic, you can shift on your own. I do it all of the time. Going up hill, I almost always shift myself before the automatic downshifts. Coming down hills, I also control my speed by downshifitng.

As far as current driving styles and speed limits, most of the roads that I drive on now still have 55 mph speed limits, I enjoy the slower pace and love meeting people in the little towns we drive through.

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I have the 6 and auto trans. I still think the 4 cylinder with a manual trans is stronger. At least you can keep it on the correct gear on climbs .......my 2 c's

I agree. I've had my 84 Dolphin 22r, with the stick shift for 10 years now. It's always done what I ask it, well. Climbing steep hills goes slower, but the good mileage is so worth it (15-17 mpg). On the level, she'll go 60-65, easy. I did give her a tune up about 2 yrs ago, but otherwise, not a speck of trouble. I did put in better seats (Toyota 4-Runner), for comfort, on long trips.

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