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Ac Belt For A 1988 22Re?


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AC belt started squealing when I turned it on. I found the belt loose and the adjuster not being able to take up the slack. I rarely use AC. In fact, might be the first time ever on this rig so this may not be a new problem. Found a Gates 37" belt on it. So I looked up the various belts offered for it via the common auto parts stores. NAPA, Autozone, Advance, etc. All sell a 35", 35 1/2", or a 36" belt. So after a lot of jerking around I found out NONE fit. Can't even squeeze on a 35", 35 1/2", or a 36". 37" goes on but is too loose. So it appears it calls for a 36 1/2" belt which I could not find locally. Either that or the Gates 37" belt stretched? I put it on my belt gauge and it measures as a 4L and 37 1/4". Not too far off from the original 37".

So I've got a 36 1/2" belt ordered and will see if it fits. Anyone else has this problem? Note this is the fuel injected 2.4 so there is no air-pump. Just AC pulley and an idler-adjuster.

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When looking at replacing the starter I noticed that my AC belt is just s slight bit too loose. Belt looks good but adjuster is bottomed, cannot thighten it any more.

My plan is to take it off and get the next smaller size, run the adjuster all the way in to get it on and it should fit???? The adjuster has at least an inch travel. Did not get the #'s off it.

Since I have the V6 probably not the same belt, but could be.

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I had the same problem with my '88 Escaper 22Re, auto. I tried several belts and ended up parked in an O'Reilly's parking lot trying on several belts. I ended up with a 1/2" x 36 7/8" belt. Yes, they make belts that vary by 1/8". This belt works good. There is not much adjustment in the belt adjuster on this engine.

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I had the same problem with my '88 Escaper 22Re, auto. I tried several belts and ended up parked in an O'Reilly's parking lot trying on several belts. I ended up with a 1/2" x 36 7/8" belt. Yes, they make belts that vary by 1/8". This belt works good. There is not much adjustment in the belt adjuster on this engine.

Glad to hear it's not just me. I too stopped at an auto parts store and tried every belt they had between 35 and 37". I know for sure a 36 7/8" would of worked but no such thing in stock. I ordered a 36 1/2" and not sure if I'll be able to squeeze it on, or not.

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When you choose a belt there are a lot of factors to consider. Such as the top width of the pulley groove, the root size of the groove & the angle included & the depth of the groove.. These measurement's are seldom discussed, but should be considered when choosing a replacement belt... There are a lot of "fitzall" belts being sold that do not fit the application as intended, but will work (for awhile)....also, belts are made in metric as well as SAE sizes.....If you are fortunate to have your original belt...(most of us with 20 year old vehicles are not)

try to get the #'s from it....other wise MEASURE............... donnie

there are other manufactures besides Gates & Dayco........try Continental for metric sizes HTH

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How about changing the pulley dia on the idler.

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When you choose a belt there are a lot of factors to consider. Such as the top width of the pulley groove, the root size of the groove & the angle included & the depth of the groove.. These measurement's are seldom discussed,

I already stated the it takes a .5" belt. 36 degrees is pretty much the standard for an auto belt and NOT a FHP (fractional horsepower belt).

The OEM Toyota pulleys are made for a .47" (12 mm) or .5" (13 mm) belt cut at 36 degrees and that is all I've tried.

The factory idler pulley is 3 3/16" diameter. So, yes, a smaller or larger pulley could be tried but that's too much fooling around for me. I'd have to hunt one up that has the same mounting bolt size which would not be easy unless I had a shelf full of them in front of me to play with. Then if I DID change the pulley - I would take even more research to find a new replacement ball bearing for it if ever needed. Nice thing about the OEM setup is - if a bearing starts to whine in either the AC belt tensioner, or the power-steering belt tensioner - I can easily just go out an buy a bearing to fix instead of an entire new pulley/idler. The PS idler is often over $100 if the assembly is replaced instead of the bearing. I just put a new bearing in my PS idler and it cost me $8.

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I bought that 36 7/8" belt over the counter at O'Reilly's. If they don't have one in stock they can get them quickly. When I buy a vehicle, I use a Sharpie to write all of the belt sizes, oil capacity, oil filter number, air filter number, and radiator capacity on the frame that holds the radiator in place. All I have to do is pop the hood and I can get the information I need to get replacements.

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I bought that 36 7/8" belt over the counter at O'Reilly's. If they don't have one in stock they can get them quickly. When I buy a vehicle, I use a Sharpie to write all of the belt sizes, oil capacity, oil filter number, air filter number, and radiator capacity on the frame that holds the radiator in place. All I have to do is pop the hood and I can get the information I need to get replacements.

I glad to hear I am not the only one who does this. I write it on the hood, typically on one of the diagram labels. I also put the wrench size for the oil plug. We have a lot of vehicles in the family that I take care of. Makes things so much easier. I haven't however done the belt sizes.

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