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On the Dolphin and probably on me too. I haven't been around here for awhile because I've been a bit frustrated with the whole deal. So Happy New Year to all of you.

So the 86 Dolphin 22re. The guy who sold it to me said that he had rebuilt the engine. I ran it around here for a couple thousand miles and it seemed fine. So we headed for Florida to visit friends for the Holidays. Blew the head gasket in Georgia. A nice guy down there did a quick job and got us going again and we had a good holiday and made it home to Pittsburgh.

Then I took it to my mechanic and said check it out. He said the new gasket is leaking oil. So I said pull it again, let's see what we got. Took it to the machine shop where I work and John said that the head was pretty well shot. But if we shaved it and shimmed it, it would probably be all right for a while. Eventually the cam shaft is going to break though because the head is too warped from multiple over-heatings.

So I'm too poor for any other plan now and that's what I'm going with. What's frustrating is I spent all this money on something that should have been replaced the first time it was pulled. But there you go. I still love it but....

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Then I took it to my mechanic and said check it out. He said the new gasket is leaking oil. So I said pull it again, let's see what we got. Took it to the machine shop where I work and John said that the head was pretty well shot. But if we shaved it and shimmed it, it would probably be all right for a while. Eventually the cam shaft is going to break though because the head is too warped from multiple over-heatings.

So I'm too poor for any other plan now and that's what I'm going with. What's frustrating is I spent all this money on something that should have been replaced the first time it was pulled. But there you go. I still love it but....

You can buy a brand new "loaded" head cheaper then what many machine shops would charge to work on your old one. Aftermarket, yes. I know of several people who have used them and I've not heard of a single issue. $300 plus shipping. Comes with new valves, new springs, new cam, etc.

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This is where I'd go, if it were me.

Sorry to hear about the troubles.

Been there, did this. Good stuff. Ted will answer the phone and talk to you about what is best.

P.S. your mech is correct, because of the Toyota design machining a warped head will kill the cam in a hurry.

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Resurfacing a head won't hurt the cam or cam-bushings when done correctly. Just means the camshaft bore-alignment has to be checked and corrected if needed.

Warped heads do not always need to be resurfaced either. Often they can be straightened by bolting to a special jig and heated in an oven.

The big issue - at least in my opinion - is the cost of getting the original head rebuilt, versus the cost of a brand new one.

When my 1988 blew a head-gasket last summer due to a failed water-pump. I had to leave it behind 800 miles from home. I wanted to put a brand new cylinder-head assembly on it for a cost of $285 . The shop where I'd left the RV said it would be cheaper to just get my old head resurfaced, cam-alignment checked, valves reseated, etc. Well - when that damn head came back from the shop - just that bill was $487 ! I'd been further ahead with the complete new head.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for the replies. Sorry, it's been hectic and I forgot I wrote this. Well my guys say that they don't trust the new cheap heads and that I'm better off to stick with it and move on to all the other things that need fixing.. Just take it easy on it. Which I try to do anyway. So that's going to be it for now. They're putting new rubbers on all the fuel injectors, they were all cracked. It should be done this week. We will see. I drive for the shop so the shave and the shim were just $120. Otherwise the head was fine. Still had to have the gaskets and injector rubbers which was another $150. Should get out for about a 1000 bucks total. If I had a garage, I could have done the labor but I wasn't waiting till spring. I'll let you know.

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What are these "shims" you're talking about? Only shims that come to mind (my mind) is the valve-spring shims that only get used after resurfacing seals and/or valves. That to get the "installed spring height" back where it belongs.

I certainly would not spend $1000 on the job without at least getting new valve-seals and maybe valves and guides if needed. It's a minor extra expense once it's all apart.

No shims involved when milling a head that I ever heard of. Extra thick head-gaskets yes - to bring the combustion chambers back to OEM size if a lot is milled off. The comments about the cam being in danger due to prior warping make no sense to me. The head gets checked for proper align-bore for the cam and either it is correct, or it is not. If not, something has to be done and it cannot be used "as is." If it's OK then it will stay OK when bolted back onto the engine block UNLESS the engine-block deck is warped. If THAT is the case, you are screwed even with a new head.

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Maris is correct, that is any head / machine shop who understands aluminum heads could have oven pressed it back to near flat & .005 would have cleaned it up......Milling a bowed head is not good. the head will be flat, but too thin & the cam bores not true.. ALSO beware of heads made off shore

be it China, India, Spain or Mexico.............there is some real crap out there...look for at least a year or preferably more on the warranty card..donnie

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I'm probably not good at explaining it. These guys do race car engines and I try to understand what they're talking about, but not very well. What they call a shim I think is the heavier gasket with the copper in it. And when they talk about the cam is it just will never be perfect but it's good enough for my use. One would have to get everything new for a race car you might say. They're perfectionists. The valves seem to have already been done, compression tests were all good. I worry too much. It hardly uses any oil. Less than half quart per thousand. Gas mileage seems normal, about 15 overall. It should probably be fine now. They do 4 to 6 heads per day. I must defer.

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If they are actually telling you the head will never be right but "good enough for your use" - that is simply ridiculous and I'd run away from the place. Having race-engine experience has little to do with doing OEM heads for longevity. Hopefully what they told you was not really meant quite that way. The cam and bores are either good - or they are not. I'm wondering - how the heck does "your use" differ from anyone else who wants their Toyota to last? The engine is working harder in an RV then in a stock truck or car - so if anything - "your use" is harder then average. Also, I understand what you're saying about the engine didn't use oil so maybe the head doesn't need any extra work? My point is - it may not use oil now but if the valve-stems and guides are worn and valve-seals borderline, it may start using oil soon if not addressed. NOW is the time.

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